I recently procured an twenty year old Maxima (1989) SE manual. The car seems to be suffering from broken studs around the exhaust manifolds. Would it be easier to lift the heads and drill them out or to try to drill it with the motor still in the car.

 

On my 91 I pulled my radiator, ac compressor, altenator and drilled them out. I had to change antifreeze anyways so why I went that route. On my 91 I dropped the motor actually to do the back studs. I couldn't get between the firewall and motor with a drill.

 

i took mines to the shop to drill out the studs. cost 520 with replacement of gaskets.

 

I took my heads out to remove them. I didn't have the room to drill them out while still in the car, so while the heads were out me and my dad went ahead with a minor rebuild. New gaskets, piston rings, had the heads sent out and cleaned, ect. The car had been out of commission for a while because the transmission was shot, so we took this route.

 

Started taking the engine apart...the RH manifold studs are ok, I pulled those so there's no need to pull that head. I think I should be able to do the LH without removing it. What is the difference between say Autozone manifold gaskets and Nissan OEM stuff apart from the exorbitant price.

 

Personally, I've used aftermarket (RockAuto) for exhaust manifold gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, etc. with no problems. I only make a point to stay OEM on things like the knock sensor, water pump, internal engine seals/gaskets, etc.

 

when i took it to the shop, they had lifted the engine to have a better view to drill it out. my motor was still in my car too, but they just lefted it a bit so they can see.

 

If you have a small drill, you can get to them while it's still in the car. you might find it advantageous to remove the left side engine mount and lower the engine a bit using an engine hoist, but I was able to do the left side studs in the car.

I don't even think I removed the radiator... but on a 20 yr old car, pulling it and flushing the radiator out while you have the car apart isn't really a bad idea.

You'll have to pull the alternator, AC compressor, and at least the top radiator hose to get the stuff out of the way.

For the AC compressor, you don't have to actually open the lines and remove it. just remove the mounting bolts and place the compressor on top of the engine so it's out of the way.

 

Who knows what Autozone may be sourcing, they could even be OEM. Nissan OEM is made by Ishino (VG anyways):

#14036-V5000 (RH)
#14037-V5000 (LH)

So you could ask Autozone if they are Ishino, and if so they are OEM, although they won't have the Nissan logo on the bag. Confirm the L & R though as my bags may have been switched if you do find the OEM ones. They are quite cheap if bought outside of Nissan.

 

FEL-PRO has always worked well for me as far as exhaust gaskets go.

 

Turns out I don't need to drill the studs after all. I just bought another 3rd gen. A 1992 with a 1994 VE engine 5spd manual and she looks pretty good apart from a banged up front bumper.

 

Update...I sold the 89 to my kid brother after I snagged a 92SE. Threw a couple hundred bucks into her to get her ready for Winter duty since my 02 hibernates this time of year. Anyway yesterday on my way to work I brought the old girl up 90 mhp real quick to see how the VE was performing...she bucked, no power, stalled then came back up twice. Now this is a 92 with an engine from a 94ve auto, they did not swap the manual setup from the 92 manifold (power valve). What gives with the bucking guys.

 

Bucking could be many things, but a VE auto is easily capable of 120mph in stock form.

 

I like this car more everyday...much faster than I imagined the 3rd gen to be and it's one of the best handling I have experienced in a Maxima. Better than the 4th and 5.5 in my opinion.