biggz2332

iTrader: (5)

does anyone no the size the brake line on the VG model going to the brakes in the rear

1993-VG30E-GXE

REAR BRAKE PIPE (LH) 3/16" 25 FOOT Art No 884.BLT-3-25
REAR BRAKE PIPE (RH) 3/16" 25 FOOT
FUEL SEND PIPE 5/16" (DOUBLE WALL STEEL) - DOUBLE LAP FLARE ONLY 12 FOOT 884.BLT-5-25 17.50 per bag
FUEL RETURN PIPE 5/16" (DOUBLE WALL STEEL) - DOUBLE LAP FLARE ONLY 12 FOOT 25.00 per bag
FUEL TANK BREATHER PIPE ?" (DOUBLE WALL STEEL) - DOUBLE LAP FLARE ONLY
BRAKE LINE BENDER TOOL
SAE 45 FLARE TOOL

1993-VG30E-GXE

Addendum:

The fuel pipe is actually just 5/16" Brake Pipe
The 25 foot length is only if you are going ALL the way from the rear calipers to the firewall intersection thing

BRAKE LINE NUTS:
#M5-3 (Standard Asian Nut) 10mm X 1.0 male no lead 16mm overall - SAE flare
Art No. 889.500 27.50
889.501

BLEED SCREW:
#BLM10 10mm X 1.0 steel bleed screw 33mm overall

biggz2332

iTrader: (5)

All i needed was brake line lol, so it's "3/16" I asked cuz I have found a max with a busted line, and I'm going to cut that busted line off and do a quick flare so I can purchase it and drive it home so I need to see what size lne I would needed thanks

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

In that case, go to the local parts store and buy a section of 3/16" line with 3/8" fittings and unions on it and splice it using imperial lines... almost all parts stores have imperial fittings, whereas the 10mm x 1.0mm inverted flare fittings used on Nissans are pretty rare to find in a parts store. (both size fittings use the same size 3/16" tube)

biggz2332

iTrader: (5)

Oh ok I got what your saying. Would I still have to flare the lines on the car itself?

Garf

iTrader: (1)

screw it. just use duct tape

biggz2332

iTrader: (5)

Lapajgo

Hope he is messing with you. Just brakes told me that it will cost me $500 bucks - hell no. The fitting is a miracle fix, I have two lines filed by my belts - and I patched them with fittings for some spare change.

1993-VG30E-GXE

Barf was kidding.

biggz2332

iTrader: (5)

I know he was he doesnt want a member dead...


Thats alot of money for some line work

Lapajgo

In my case I have ABS(that is on the passenger side and the break lines hub is on the driver side) that means lifting the engine to replace the lines - they go around the engine.

biggz2332

iTrader: (5)

oh your talking from abs str8 to the back. I'm just talking bout a lil section.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

I hope you aren't recommending compression unions be used on a brake line

Lapajgo

Yeah that's exactly what I used - 2 years NP.

1993-VG30E-GXE

The brake and fuel line job is the WORST thing I've ever done. Bending those fuel lines around the firewall, is a major pain. It has to be bent so sharply or else it rubs on the steering rack boot. None of the OEM clamps would work, so I had to do makeshift and buy eye bolts. That and I broke that tension rod bracket bolt anchor when removing those gussets, so I had to weld to fix it. The union thing is a good idea, the lines seemed protected inside the gusset, so the corrosion didn't get to them all the way up the firewall, if I could re do it, I would have done all unions.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

those are NOT to be used on brakes, they do not have the ability to withstand the pressures that a brake system can come under. Yes tons of people do it, but in case of a full panic stop that will be the point where the line comes apart.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Hellz No. My local parts stores sell replacement sections of brake line with 3/8" or 10mm inverted flare fittings on them, and they also sell the fittings and unions separately- usually only in 3/8" for them though.

1993-VG30E-GXE

How do they do it then in the garages, when they patch a short section of line - is there some special DOT approved fitting, but not called a union?

I noticed the old lines before I took mine out had a union in it for yrs, when they did a brake job a long time ago they must have patched it during a brake job.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Read my post directly above yours.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

jes checkin'
Depends on the shop. some will use the compression union because they don't give a F, some will run a new line front to rear, some will cut flare and use regular unions. for my brakes I would do "b" run a whole new line. a 25' roll of steel tubing is not that expensive.

zhuk90

how would you go about running new lines? would you just remove the origanal lines and follow that bath? or could you just cut corners? one of my brake lines busted(back right brake) right when i got the car.... i wasnt sure of what to do at the time so i replaced the brake line from where it starts with a skrew and have been rolling around for 2winters with three brakes.... i would like to replace all brake lines but following the stock lines seems imposibal!

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

If your talking about the rubber hose to the caliper/ drum thats pretty easy. I'd go stainless steel braided lines. Wait... I already did. lol! If your on a budget crunch they have them on ebay for about $25-$50 a set. Other than that I'd go Goodridge.

zhuk90

no one of the brake lines right under the drivers side door busted.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Oh! The hard line. you'll have to order that from Nissan or find a local specialist.

zhuk90

would the line come pre bent? that would seem really hard and odd to replace seeing that its bent in crazy ways...i would like to do the job by my self....