twtraudio

Alright so figures after i get everything back together last night. Well with the car still lifted up i filled the radiator with antifreeze and than ran out of coolant. So i go the the store and get more and i come to find a puddle of anitfreeze ride under the crank shft pulley (DAMN IT). I can see that it is leaking from right behind it. Now mind you i havent started and ran the car to till the thrmostat opens and the housing looks like it isnt leaking. So is this than the water pump seal ? If so shoudl i drain the fluid now ?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well you should've been able to do the belt without messing with the water pump tho most of the time it's suggested to go ahead and do the pump at the same time. take the timing cover back off and check to see if there's any on the belt (if so sadly you can't keep using that belt... it'll eat through it) but at least you will be able to look and see where it's coming from. did you remember to tighten the clamps on the short bypass hose that wraps around the timing cover?

twtraudio

The short bypass hose ? You mean the C shaped upper hose (the one the the left of the main upper hose ? If so than yes and now im starting to think it is coming from the thermostat housing. Still up gona take off everything and double check. Its funny cause i got everything off down to the cover in like 15 minute this time. Guess now i know next time this belt will only take like 2 hours LOL. Oh well ! Better in the garage than on the side of the road !

GRNMAXDMON

iTrader: (1)

yes he does mean the C shaped upper hose known as the bypass hose. and like what Caped said if antifreeze got on the belt we suggest you replace the belt with a new one. and if it is leaking from the water pump just replace with a new one and do your thermostat as well with a new gasket. this is why when you do timing belts on these cars its always suggested to do everything else while you are in there. if not, you will be taking your car apart more than you will be driving it. have fun.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

hay but at least he'll be a pro at it now lol. fortunately the belts are cheap if in fact it did get coolant on it. the tensioner is the actual expensive part (you did get a new timing belt tensioner right? ..... right?)

twtraudio

Yea i got a new belt tensioner. I replaced the thermostat and water pump while i was in there. And it ended up being the thermostat housing gasket. I used a stupid auto zone Felpro gasket and well cleary that didnt work. So i went and get some RTV sealant (should of in the first place). And of course there was some anti freeze on the belt (damn it). So guess back tommorow to the zone for another belt and maybe this time i will figure out how to get the cam sprockets out to change the seals. I managed today to change the rear valve cover. And you aint kiding i had all that stuff off in 30 minutes this time pro styel !

And after looking under the car more thoroughly (during the cool down period after getting pissed) i noticed that i need new cv boots and the other boots (cant remember the name maybe drive shaft boots). Great ! NOT ! Oh well cant expect the world from a $ 1200 car.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

steering rack boots? where the tierod attaches to the steering rack? or tie rod end dustboots where the tie rod end attaches to the spindle assembly?

anyhow what i have done is to loosen the bolt on the cam prior to letting the belt loose. don't take it all the way out, just loosen it enough so you can hold the cam gear still with your hand once the belt is off.

are you gonna change the seal behind the little sprocket too? i SOMETIMES have issues getting the little guard plates to come loose from the crank.. not sure why, they are just stubborn little buggers. you might have better luck. depends how clean the crank snout is i guess.

1993-VG30E-GXE

twtraudio, from my last belt change a little coolant on the belt is OK if it didn't absorb in and you blow it off with the blow gun right away. When I removed the bypass hose, some of the coolant got on the belt, but it can bead on the surface so just blow it off.

If you feel it and it's wet and it's not sitting on the surface, that's another story.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

ugh autozone parts.. so many headaches out of their parts, I dont even mess with the zone anymore unless its for like oil or product that arent parts. I've recently discovered fel pro is crap...lol

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

gaskets? I used this:

twtraudio

Yea the gaskets suck. The belt was really nice though.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well the coolant sat on his overnight.. he didn't just see it drop on say "oops!" and wipe it off real quick. he was driving the car while coolant was leaking on the belt meaning the whole inside surface probably got saturated. but for the off chance that the belt didn't absorb much coolant is it REALLY worth the risk for $30? not at all.

twtraudio

I actually noticed it while it was still up in the air after I added coolant. I ended up taking it off and wiping it down before it sat overnight. The car hasnt left the garage since i started this project on saturday. So I didnt end up getting the housing back on with the new sealant till about 9 pm last night. So im gona wait till tonite or tommorow morning to add coolant again and than check for leak be fore i put the lower belt cover back on and etc.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

ohh i thought you drove the car to the store. have you started the engine yet since putting the new belt on?

twtraudio

yea after everything was put back together the first time before i added any antifreeze it started right up and everything was good. Than i added anti freeze and that when it leaked. So this time i put the belt back on and the top timing cover on loosely (so i can sneak the lower one on later) and the Bypass hose. So know when i add anitfreeze i can see if it leaks again and this way i didnt completley put it back together ! i just have to wait till 9 pm tonite for the 24 hour cure time on the thermostat housing ! Also considering how easy it was to get to belt again after doing this twice now im gonna recheck it in a couple thousand miles just to be safe. (seriously took like 15-20 minutes to get to it and it could use a good flush of fresh fluids)

As far as the boots its the cv boots directley behind the rotors and than the ones farther back on the steering rod in think (the other boots on the rod to the left of the cv boots on the passenger side or right on the dirvers side) are the other bad ones.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

did you use the same belt again or a new one?

twtraudio

same one i wiped it off and blew it off and seems fine and dry but now your starting to make me wonder LOL ! I guess it was only $ 15 bucks maybe i will just get a new one. i couldnt get the damn cam sprockets loose ! I used a flat head to keep it from turning back and used MAP gas torch on the head of the bolt to get it hot and nothing !

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

weird. maybe it has locktite on it. if you had the engine out it would be possible to use an impact on that bish if you REALLY had to but i doubt i'll fit while still in-car and even so if your flathead slipped you'd kinda possibly hurt the valves (unless you removed the rocker arms from the heads of course... which is alot more work than what you really need to be doing for this haha)

twtraudio

wat you mean hurt the valves ? It didnt slip it just moved with the sprocket. I had the belt on so that nothing fell out timing

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i meant if you used an impact and the bolt held on so tight that the impact wrench caused the cam to spin backwards. just doing it with a socket you probably wouldn't make the screwdriver slip but an impact could. but i don't think one of those will fit with the engine in-car anyways.

twtraudio

Oh gotcha ya. Yea you would need like a mini impact and even than it would only fit for the LH sprocket with the resivour out and the other sh*t who knows. Like i said im ona check back on it in a couple thousand miles to be safe. Maybe when i go to replace the cv boots make another weekend of it !

twtraudio

DAMN IT !!! It still leaks. I thought for a second the housing was cracked but it was just some sealant. What is weird is its coming from the same exact spot by the lowest bolt ! So i started tracing my finger around and i wonder if both times i had it offset a little bit from mounting it completely flush to the engine. I could feel a bit of a lip on it rite where it leaks. Considering im screwing it in from the top could this be a possibility that i dont have it set on there rite when i tighten it down ? Wouldnt of this time the gasket sealer of made up for any imperfections ? So I dont know anymore other than what i presume. So i drained the coolant again and will go back at it tommorow. Suggestions appreciated.

1992maximase30

sometimes certain parts need a specific way of tightening.
don't mean to be a negative ned...but you mightve warped the housing if you tighten it too tight, etc.
or either the surface of both the housing the other end has probably some left over gasket, etc.

btw, i remember doing the waterpump on my 3rd gen. it's not as bad as some people say.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

are you sure every trace of the old gasket is gone before you put the sealant on? do you have a good digital camera? if you take it apart again (which i guess you kinda have to..) take some closeup shots with a proper camera (ie not a phone) cuz sometimes gaskets are the same-ish color as the metal. or just run your fingers over it real good or something.

twtraudio

I will do that. This is so sad and embarrasing that something this simple has tied up all this time. Oh well.

Which way does the themostat go in the housing. Does the stem with the spring go into the housnig or into the motor ? I have it where it goes into the housing.

like in this pic :

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...00c15280076113

1993-VG30E-GXE

Download the FSM the photo of the thermostat is in there. As for the flange surface where you put the RTV, it needs to be completely clean, by using Laquer Thinner (Varsol will leave a bit of a residue and the RTV won't seal good).or some other alcohol type thing and a gasket scraper first, then something to 'prepare the surface' I use surface conditioning disc like 3M Roloc Scotchbrite, without the die grinder you could use the cheap 3M scotchbrite cloth you can get at home depot or wherever, then the laquer thinner. So in order. Varsol or Laquer Thinner, Scrape, Prepare, Laquer Thinner, Let Dry, Gasketmaker.

As for your belt, your gonna be fine, I wouldn't worry about it. If the thing was wet in coolant sitting there, then maybe I would replace it. If your really paranoid, then replace it. Like will it keep you up at night? If so then for your mental health I would advise replacing it

twtraudio

Yea i have a copy of the FSM on disc. I was just checking all my steps. I will just try the real good preperation. I tried to get the housing off today but man was it on there ! It was freezing in chicago today even with the garage heater on, so i said screw it for today.

twtraudio

Sigh ! I finally figured out where it is ACTUALLY coming from. During the tear down i for some reason thought the water inlet tube (the y shped peice above the thermostat housing) needed to come off. Stupidly i screwed it back in without putting new sealant on. I noticed this when i put anitifreeze in again adn the leak was now coming from behind the housing. So i must of had 2 leaks LOL ! Man oh man do i know this whole area of the car now !

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

lol it happens. I'm really glad you managed to find it.
AND it wont be a job you will be doing any time soon (fingers crossed)

twtraudio

yea just got to wait another 24 hours to confirm but im pretty sure !

1993-VG30E-GXE

Good job. That's a pretty hard repair to figure out.

I'm surprised that the old gummy RTV didn't seal it when you closed it back up. I guess it shows how important a good RTV is.

twtraudio

you got that right and as of 10 am its all good and put back together. No leaks (well there was fluid but thats cause i left the bleeder screw off like a bozo) sounds better too. So onto the other valve cover i havent replaced yet.

twtraudio

DAMN IT again ! is there any reason the F**king why the Water pump pulley isnt lining up with the damn crank pulley ? its just ate that belt unfortunatley.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

maybe you put the pulley on inside out. some are offset a little bit so it matters which side faces out.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Hmm, pics? I can't imagine why you'd be having so many problems

twtraudio

Sigh that was the exact problem THANK YOU !. I think i ran into every problem big or small on this stupid belt so far !

1993-VG30E-GXE

This is the maxima after all - and we all know how much of a BIOTCH it can be

irasta47

where is water pump located on 1996 nissian maxima 5-speed

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Probably just behind the water pump pulley.

tresboi

iTrader: (9)

LOL either there or in the 4th Gen section.


(Just busting your chops man, no harm )