Alright so many of you know i had one hell of a time doing the timing belt or i shoudl say putting it back together (my own dumb mistakes really not that hard). Well now the air pocket is gone too (thank god). Unfortunatley now there is another noise. Its coming from around the pulleys area. I didnt hear it after i first got everything back together either. Since its been really cold is when i noticed this noise.

Kinda like metal rattling. I have a suspicion that it is the crank plate that goes between the pulley and the crank sprocket. I think its this cause when i put that plate back on , it seemed like it would just kinda be there and it had marks on the back from the crank sprocket possibly rubbing on it ( i noticed this when i first took it off). I mean when you put it on it doesnt really go around either the crank pulley key of the crank sprocket key. ALmost as if the pulley is just supposed to keep it in place. So i could be on crack too but could this be it just kinda loosely spinning or something else ?

 

Did you by any chance pull the oil pan?

 

The little plate won't move when you tighten the crankshaft bolt. And the little hole in the plate where the woodruff key goes through doesn't need to be positioned straight either. But if the plate was bent, it should be replaced (along with the rear one if it was bent from someone trying to pry at it).

Also those plates are one way only, not reversable.

But the plate wouldn't be loose rattling even if it were warped, all it would do is wear out the belt on the sides or something, maybe damage a camshaft or two...IF it were rubbing.

 

Check the torque of the crank bolt to be sure its still tight b/c if it comes the so will ur belt and bent valves will definately be the end result so make sure the crank bolt and pulleys r extremely tight

 

ColumbianMax : No didnt remove the oil pan.

1993-VG30E-GXE : Im sure i put it on the right way cause i remember how it came off. I switched it around just for good measure and that way would of defintaley sliced the belt.

10's or bust : i will check the torque and make sure my other pulleys are tight as well.

 

Alright checked the acc pulleys those are on tight. I cant get the crank pulley bolt to tighten any more cause it just wants to spin. Also i noticed that the crank pulley looks as if it were shaking while spinning ?

 

you sure oyu didn't somehow strip the threads out, or use the wrong bolt, there? it should all be tight. if the bolt still spins, that is a bad thing.
it would also explain the shaking.

 

i think he meant the whole frigging crank wants to spin when he tries to tighten that bolt. which isn't as easily preventable on an automatic like his as it is on a manual.

 

yea the whole pulley spins when you try tighten it or in my case check touque. the noise is defintaley coming from right at the crank pulley possibly have the timing belt on too tight ? I doest whine or anything like some videos of timing belt noise. If taken it on drives and it runs fine. Also it sounds like it could be coming from the Alternator pulley possibly. i busted out the old mechanics stethoscope its sound as if it could be coming from either location.

 

Alright this MAY have been it as far as the noise goes. The alternator adjustment was loose. Meaning that the bolt that holds the metal block that the adjustment screws goes into was loose. So i changed the bolt out and got a longer one so i could put a nut on the end to really make sure it s was tight. Now the noise if gone for now but the engine is warm too. So i will check again when its cold. maybe im just paranoid as well on the crank pulley shaking. Does anyone have a vid of theres running so i can see what it looks like ( iknow this is a long shot) ?

 

you used a pulley puller to take it off, right? may check to make sure it isn't warped with a straight edge. you can use a few methods to check: measure straight across at a few different points, checking for gaps caused by warping, and run it sideways, all the way across.
(this is also a long shot, but worth a check)

 

alright i checked that and that seems to be fine but i did notice that there appears to be some of the crank pulley missing like a nickel size chip on the middle section guider that helps keep the belt in place. Dont know if that makes sense.Could that of thrown the balance off with that little missing though ?

 

I doubt that would throw it off, that much missing. I have a chip on mine too. The crank bolt has to be torqued properly by jamming a screwdriver on the ring gear where the starter is. Mine wobbled for a long time, but it doesn't wobble anymore at all. I cleaned the snout and inside of crank pulley with laquer thinner and scotchbrite as excessive debris or rust may not let it sit properly - there was rust on mine when I took it off, then applied anti-seize to the both sides, and the pulley bolt. Then torqued to 61 ft-lbs (adjusted value for graphite & moly anti-seize).

 

Oh, and here are the forumulas if you need them:

Aluminum Base with Graphite & Moly = Adjust Torque by X 0.64 (35% Reduction)

Copper & Graphite = Adjust Torque by X 0.80 (20% Reduction)

Whatever you do, don't overtorque those bolts, like the crank bolt or the flex plate bolts or flex plate to torque converter bolts.... but obviously you won't be touching those last 2.

 

yea i will give that a shot so this is somthing located by or on the starter ? if its overtightened coudl that be causing the wobble ?

 

more 'n likely, the wobble woud be because of an under-tightened bolt.
iirc, you can remove a cover under the transmission, but I took the starter out, and tried the screw driver method from above.

 

alright i will give it a shot (shoudld put some anit seeze on that bolt anyways). I mean it shoudl be tight i used an impact wrench to put it on.

 

I think you should torque it by hand. Impact wrench is hard to get an accurate torque, you could use the limiting extensions, but they don't get too exact. If you don't use a limiting bar, you could be severely over-torquing too. Torque is a weird thing. Under-torque, and self loosening can occur. Over-torque, self loosening can occur too (surprisingly) after I read this report on 'wheel off' scenarios (60 REPORTED accidents per week). Basically over-torquing causes over-stretching which can lead to self loosening. Point is, it has to be in the middle of the FSM range. The common garage 'more is better' when they use the impact wrench on our wheel nuts, is actually wrong. More is worse. And Less is worse. It's the proper clamping force that keeps two parts together. Anti-seize gives you more accurate torque measurements, if you apply the formula. For example my GXE Wheel Nuts are torqued 55 ft-lbs.

 

I hear ya good points ! Hey quick question for ya 1993-VG30E-GXE when yours was wobbling a lill like mine, did it cause a lil vibration and almost like a humming sound with it ?

Also can you use a DE crank pulley on a VG (im assuming No but asking anyways) ? Those are the only ones im finding to buy. Google keep wanting me to put in DOHC but I need SOHC.

 

I thought the wobbly crankshaft pulley was the source of my sound but it was the LH cylinder head. The vibration/rattling sound could also be a worn out camshaft or lifters, use your scope. The vibration/humming sound I got was from the head, and after I overhauled the engine it went away (I replaced that side lifters and camshaft). Scope is hard though as vibrations and rattling kind of go through the whole motor. Your probably isn't the same as mine as you said the vibration sound started RIGHT after you did the timing belt. My vibration sound started slowly and lasted a yr.

 

gotcha well i dont think its that cause this happened after the timimng belt (at least i sure hope ! ) My old man thinks im paranoid and told me not to worry about it as it doesnt wobble that bad and he thinks the noise and the resonance is just the belts and it will go away with time (Ha hes gotten lazy over the yars used to be a big DIY'er). But i just cant see that being normal espcially since its causing a resonance. Everything is fine under drive. Its when you come to a stop or in park u can hear/feel a lil vibration. Makes me wonder if its a bad motor mount. Im gona try another crank pulley cause it wouldnt shock me if it got warped when i took it off.

 

Alright so here is wat I have come up with after a couple of test runs . The noise is gone ! (Probably the alternator screw block adjustment that was loose). The vibration when at idle and in drive (basically in drive but at a stop with the brakes applied) only happens after the car has been driving for a while. Any clue on what this could be at this point ? I think its wierd that the car has to be warmed up. You would think if its a bad mount or balance issue it would vibrate right away. Or not because start up idle and warmed up idle are at different rpms.

 

bump for new findings !

 

Probably a dying injector. How old is your fuel filter too.

Did you tighten the alternator properly. There are 3 bolts to loosen on the alernator BEFORE you touch the adjustment screws. Then once you've done the adjustment with the long one, you tighten the one on the square. Then tighten the one on the oil pump. Then tighten the 2 on the bracket.

 

yea the alternator is tight. The fuel filter is a month old. Yea when i bought the car i was told a tune up was done but i think that was BS as the wires look old and the plugs look old as well so im gona do those too ! Wats a good brand of wires and plugs for this car ? I saw some borg warners on ebay for 30 shipped or a member has some magnecors for 50 shipped ?

 

Before you waste money on new plugs or wires, try your timing light on the pointing indicator at the pulley (this is one of the tasks done at the tune-up) If the timing is off enough, it could induce the vibration at idle. Surprisingly the VG30E can run with the timing way off, and not detonate. Severe retarded timing can also do damage, like my cherry red hot exhaust manifolds...I could have damaged my exhaust manifolds, along with other thermal stress on the engine. See the problem is, if your doing it yourself, you need to break in the engine first (after overhaul), so I couldn't see it with the timing light at the same time. I really needed a 2nd person there. Your car likely isn't in the damaging situation or you would immediately notice it, or notice it on the highway.

Also: Don't assess the plugs to be replaced if they 'look' old. It doesn't mean anything. You can confirm the gaps, etc..., but if your engine is high mileage and has excessive buildup (which will be normal at a certain point) the new plugs you put in will get dirty right away so 'dirt' isn't a way to assess.

 

Ok yea i was searching around in the forums and i was reading bout the timing and among other thigns. I will give that a go since it seems logical. Also i noticed the infamous fuel smell as well. So im also gona replace fule lines and breather/vacumm lines as well since they are hard as hell. Something else i read that leads me to believe i could of caused this too was I took the IAC valve off and cleaned it but spun the plastic nut on it a couple times to get it back in. Could that of messed with my idle ? I read that the idle adjustment screw is right next to that and that controls the idle speed.

 

If your smelling the fuel in the cabin when the car is on, it's possible it's leaking from those tiny injector rail hoses, under the Plenum, and dripping onto the intake manifold, then it gets into the cabin. I think I recalled the dripping usually happens when pressurizing the system at first, or when turning the car off. If your smelling it outside when you get out the door, it could be corroding lines underneath, or leaky hose clamp in the chain somewhere. If you need the complete hose list let me know, so you can go to the store and just tell them you want X amount of hose on the reel then just cut them to my dimensions. There's about 60 hoses total for the GXE.

I doubt that plastic nut thing could be the problem, it's not keyed so specific i'm pretty sure. Someone may want to comment on that, I think it just fits in, and you can spin it outside (as did I). There are like 2 gaskets if you disassembled the IACV-AAC valve, so it's possible you have a leak if you didn't replace them. I also put a thin layer of RTV on all the gaskets just to make sure.

By the way, did you try to send me a PM or something? I saw something in my email account. For some reason my mailbox is jammed to capacity on here, I think one of the admins downgraded my mailbox or something, I may have peed someone off, it used to hold 300 in there or more even.

 

Yea i just took the cylinder portion out and again i didnt put new gaskets on but i sure as hell put anti sieze on the screws. Yea if you coudl give my the list that woudl be great cause might as well just replace it all.

 

OK, once christmas is done i'll send it to you. but this is better left to private message since it's beyond the scope of the thread - so i'll have to delete some of my old mails first so I can send receive again.