So I start up my '92 gxe monday a.m. to goto work. I get about 2 miles and come to a stop at a traffic light and it came back, that obvious miss at idle and through the rpm range.

When I get home that night (yes, the motor still has a miss) I start pulling spark plug wires. I get to the front side of the engine (closest to the radiator) and when I pull the spark plug for the one in the middle nothing changes.

I also can pull off the injector wire and no change. The miss is still there. All other cylinders make the car run even worse.

So I got 5 new injectors off here and 1 new one from a mechanice. I saw it brand new in the box from bosch. And about 10K later it looks like its dead.

All I want to say is **** these 3rd gen VG30E's and their bull**** fuel injector design.

I put in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner, but aside from that I am through. I'll drive this car with the bad injector on it until it self destructs.

 

part of the problem is the fact that gas has ethanol in it now i think....

would be easier for you if it were a VE cuz i think you can change their front injectors without taking the intake off.

 

Didn't Greeny use VE injectors on a VG? Or I should stop drinking gasoline?

 

little of both.
iirc, it worked, but it was dumping too much fuel into the cylinder, causing another mess of problems.

 

what ben said. i put a whole rail of them on my VG and my mileage went down, down, down. barely got 20mpg anymore when i parked it. plus my engine started making weird noises.

 

probably wouldn't be a bad upgrade, tho, for somebody running a small turbo, with nistune, or such.
but stock ecu, not a hot idea.

 

Got that from the movie "The Wraith" with Charlie Sheen and Dennis Quaid. This one guy, Shank (I was the 80's), drink gas and sniff auto part sprays. He was a true auto-junkie.

Good to know you guys. I'll be sure not to do that. There is no fix for this right? As in adding a low ohm resistor to each injector?

 

nope. the resistance of the injectors signifies the quality of the coil that makes the injector work. when an injector is out of spec, it is because the quality of the coil has degraded (higher resistance).
simple explaination, to replace a more complicated elecrical engineer's syllabus.

 

adding a resistor on the injector wire won't reduce flow. you have to reduce how much air the ECU thinks the engine is getting to reduce fuel flow, ie a resistor on the MAF wire but without a wideband it's a total shot in the dark as to what resistance you need and if it even has a linear response (or if would get progressively richer or progressively leaner through the rev range). i experimented with it w/o a widebank but i either got bad bucking (too lean) or crappy gas mileage (too rich) so i just said **** it and gave up.

 

dude weird lol, i just drove home from returning a movie and my engine started to shake real bad just like before when i had to change a fuel injector. feels like one of the cylinders are not working. i had the same problem about a year or 2 ago. merry xmas to us i guess

 

is it easy to change the fuel injector? And also how do you know which injector is bad? ( sorry if its a dumb question, not too sure about it.)

 

im guessing that VG engines are kinda tricky cause u have to take the manifold off, buy on VE and VQ its much easier. unsrew the 2 screws holding the injectors, dissconect the wire, and pull it out wit some vise grips.


to find out if a injector is bad, dissconect one at a time. when u dissconect a good one, ur car will run worse. (missfire) but if one is bad and u dissconnect it, the car will run the same.
donno if that makes sense

 

yea on the VG the front ones are a pain to change cuz they are covered by the intake. the rear ones you MIGHT be able to get to w/o removing the intake tho. on all the DOHC engines (VE/VQ) the front ones are out in the open.

 

cuz then i think i paid 200 bucks to change before including labor and they took thw whole day and night to change just one. thats why i was curious if it was easier enough for me to do myself with instructions and the right set of tools. hm..

 

its the fuel injector in the first cylinder, which i replaced 2 years ago. -____- wtf

 

I am a mechanic by hobby and what my dad taught me and I can swap a single injector in this car in about 1.5 hours.

 

Karl, you're not the only one in need of an injector lol.. I still have 1 or 2 to replace now that my 3rd gen is back on the road but its just too damn cold and when I was actually gonna do them 2 weeks ago; turned out that I had the older style spares and not the 93-94 injectors like my max has.

I think you got a lemon injector though, I've owned my 3rd gen for about 50k miles and the injectors were untouched until this time and the only reason they went bad was because of the free junk yard gas I used to get when I worked there...

 

i replaced my fuel injector in the first cylinder about 2 years ago, and now its effed up again, pretty ridiculous, imma prob take it to the mechanic tomorrow and tell him he replaced it for me not to long ago and now its the same problem.

 

Stw, replacing any injector on the VG is very easy. It's all explained in the service manual. Just be sure the new plenum gaskets aren't bent or kinked from shipping, flatten it out if it is. If you install it as is, the engine may hunt, and if that happens you have to do it (the gaskets) ALL OVER AGAIN. It happened to me when replacing 1 injector last yr.

It should take about 3 hrs, more if you like to work nice and slow like me, and use the whole day. For instance to get the injectors out I took the rail inside and worked on it, with a vice.

 

so i took my car to the shop, the mechanic said that its not my fuel injector, but he said im getting too much air that air is trapped in cylinder 6 that the gas fumes is not being burnt, He said theres an air leak. o.O

 

huh?
do you hear any hissing sound while the car is running?

 

Very interesting. run the car for a few minutes and check the plug see if it is wet.

i would hit up a local part store and pick up a ohm meter or multimeter. they are not very pricey and well worth it when trouble shoot a max.

 

could very well be an air leak. If you have an injector o-ring that's leaking or a bad spot on the intake manifold gasket, it can cause those problems. take a can of starting fluid or intake cleaner and spray in short squirts around the manifold while it's running. if you have a vacuum leak, you'll hear the engine change pitch when you start spraying the fluid near where the air leak is.

 

FWIW, I've never had an injector failure on either of my Maximas. 11 years and 200,000 miles and I'm still using the same injectors.
you can hate me if you want.

 

nope i dont hear hissing, i did before, but i paid 500 bucks to have my exhaust manifold gasket changed as well has stripping the bolts cuz they had broke.

 

some small leaks are hard to hear

 

just went to check up on my car, mechanic said one of the injectors has only one ohm now, he could put the cap back on and i can drive normally, but pretty soon or later, that injector will go bad. getting pretty tired of my car breaking down, im low on mileage and my uncle was first owner too. -_- its draining my pockets.

 

I think I have a set of injectors for a 89-91 square type plug all ohm tested in the mid 11s. 92-94 have an oval type plug. Either will work just have to change the plugs on harness. Front harness just unplugs the back you have to cut and soder the new plugs on. Thats what I had to do on my 89 to run 259cc. What I did was just boost the crap out of it with some deatchwerks 550cc Problem solved. LOL

 

I've replaced 3 of my injectors. Not a cheap fix.

 

Same problem here. Seems that 2 of the injectors is gone and the dealer is saying it doesn't cost extra labor to replace all the injectors. $175 per injector for nissan orig and $100 for non-nissan. $550 for labor. Is this a reasonable price?

 

when you're working on an old car there is no such thing as a "reasonable price" unless you do the work yourself

think how much beer you can buy with that $550........ GOOD beer too. There's plenty of info on here about how to do it, tho having an FSM helps cuz it tells you what order to loosen/tighten the manifold bolts in, and how tight to torque them.

 

way high on the labor alone. Book time is 2.2hrs for a VG and that is doing all 6 injectors

 

don't you sell VG injectors at almost half that price?












(free plugs ftw!)

 

thats high, most places around me are $70-$100 per hour for labor, and for a 2-3 hour job labor should be $300 tops, most likely $220ish

 

I'm not 1/2 price.
pricing depends on what year he has.
I do however include all the o'rings, and spacers that you need to install each injector.

 

As a side note: I'm on 296,000 miles on all of my injectors... and on my second engine... never replaced them... or at least not yet

 

Does anyone sell the FSM on CD for these cars?

 

not legally.
download the sections here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/

 

Since you're having what you think are injector prblms.....Please be sure that your connector pins are clean and corrosion free as well as the injector pins. Are you positive that the faulty injector is firing? Listen to it if you have an automotive stethoscope.... and test it with a noid tester....I was able to search the boneyard for injectors with similar electrical resistance and send off 8 of the them to have cleaned, flowed, and cc'd during my rebuild...RC engineering imo really did a good job....my engine really runs smooth....at Idle I'm sure I can set a glass of water on the intake manifold and I won't lose any water nor will the glass move/fall! Good luck I hope you can resolve your problem.....

 

High price for both the OEM and AM injectors. And $550 is a lot for a job that isn't all that difficult.

OP: Those 92+ injectors really are badly designed and it's easy to pinch and spring leaks in the o-rings which floods the cylinder, which i'm guessing is your problem, new OEM injector isn't going to go out in 2 years. Course if it was installed improperly, it probably would have started to leak a lot sooner than this.