So I recently had some work done on the VE. Along with two new front wheelbearings, the shop decided to do a free alignment as well (it was an offer I couldn't refuse ). In any case, she still pulls to the right when I let go of the wheel and they claim that it was due to the dissimilar tires I have (two different on the front and two new ones on the back. It is this way because someone thought it best to slash two of my tires. Wrong side of town I guess...). I am willing to believe this, but the real issue is that the steering wheel does not seem to be as responsive as it once was. I seem to have some play in the wheel before it turns the wheels; like the steering wheel is almost slipping to some degree. Does anyone know what the problem might be here?

 

go somewhere else and ask for an alignment check w/ a spec sheet.

 

I don't see how different tires in front and back would cause this, if they were different tires on the left and right side definitely but front to back doesn't make any sense. I've driven some trucks with horribly mismatched tires front to back that still drove straight.

 

i think he has 2 mismatched tires on front, then a 3rd type (both sides matching) out back

 

Have the tires been rotated appropriately? Considering two were slashed, which two were they? On my lady's ride, I rotated the front to the rear with the standard method, but the handling changed dramatically, and after a bit of time, the conditions have partially subsided; I still need an alignment though. I believe it is possible that your tires could cause you alignment to remain out of spec considering how easily the get mishapen. I have been told by a friend that the shop he went to wouldn't perform an alignment, with good conscience, without him getting different tires b/c they were worn out of shape.

The tread difference between the front and rear tries was at least 1/4 inch, on my lady's car. That's a lot of time on the road, so it makes sense to me why I can let go of the wheel and turn through some decent turns on the highway without correcting it. It's a fun game, but still, which tires were slashed and how old are the ones on the front?

 

I am considering it, but I would have to drop $70 or something for that, no? I am trying to get this done without too much pain in the pocket book as those two front wheel bearings weren't cheap...

I didn't understand it either, but that was what they said it was. I was sort of inclined to believe them as the car pulls to right if I let go of the wheel as opposed to centering it and it veers off to the right.

I guess I will go into more detail...the tires that were slashed were tires on my fourth gen rims (these were good tires. Only had about 3K miles on them, according to Craig Brace). Since I have four full sets on the stock third gen rims, I just put the third gens on. Thing is, the two on the rear only have about 5K on them (I was given these because a buddy bought them for his Camry, only to find that they were not the right size...ooops ). Now the ones on the front were the ones I got when I bought the car and I couldn't really tell you how many miles are on them. I figure that they are still good as there is still a considerable amount of tread left on them. But to answer your question, no, they have not been rotated regularly. I haven't really done this with these rims because of the asymmetry it would cause.

 

Im no expert on tires but it sounds like the two front tires are worn differently and that is what is causing the car to pull to the right. thats why normally if you destroy one tire you would normally buy 2 new ones so that your tires are not worn differently. No offense but it seems pretty obvious thats the problem

 

Right, but I am still not convinced that that is the reason for the steering column acting the way that it is...it still feels like there is a lot of play in the wheel. It "lags" when I turn the wheel (for example, I had to make an aggressive turn to dodge a sleeping pothole; I was able to move to the right easy, but returning to the left, I had to turn the wheel farther to get the same response).

 

Could it be a bad cv joint?? i just had a new transmission put in my max and the place i took it to put in a new drivers side axle since the cv boot was ripped and the axle was going to have to be fixed eventually and after that my steering seems a little tighter than it used to be. Although i could be wrong considering i didnt drive the car regularly for 5 months while i saved up to buy the new transmission so i could just think that.

 

That is a possibility. Did you have the same sort of symptom before they replaced it?

 

I'm not sure what a CV joint has to do with steering, someone educate me.

My impression regarding what you describe points to Three possibilities which I will list in order of "most likely" to "least likely." I am only addressing the lack of steering response.

First, I think you should check your rack and pinion busings. These get worn and allow your rack to shift some when you steer. The more worn and the greater the speed you are traveling or how fast you are trying to steer will put greater force on the rack and subsequently the bushing, allowing the rack to drift further and result in a delayed and unresponsive steering.

Second, it could be your tie rod ends.

Third, it could be your ball joints.

Fourth, it could be one or any combination of these factors, especially if you don't know what they feel like independantly.

AND any single one or mixture of these issues would absolutely explain the pull. But, as previously mentioned, if you take it to a shop and ask them to evaluate your steering components, they should be able to diagnose this problem. If the original shop was competent that did your work and alignment, they should have noted these. I've had good shops tell me they'll either NOT align becuase one of these factors, or they will go ahead (at my direction) but with the knowledge it will go out or still pull.

Look or have someone look at these issues. You could actually rule out the rack bushings yourself, just watch it while someone is turning the steering wheel. If it moves, replace those bushings. Very easy job, IMO.

 

i think JustTires does free alignment checks... the one near my parents' house does.

 

What part should I be looking for when I turn the wheel? The upper part of the left wheel pulls in to the wheel well when I turn to the right. It returns when I turn it back to the right.

I have never heard of a JustTires. I have a Tire Discounters rather close, Discount Tires (would rather not go there as T.D. is right down the road), and the place I took it to, Northend Wrench.

Thanks for the suggestions guys! I hope to get this resolved soon!

 

the part he was talking about is the steering rack, itself. if it moves in any direction (with wheels on ground, of course) you will want to replace the rack bushings.
as to the wheel moving, it sounds like it may have a worn control arm bushing.

 

Yeah, you watch the rack from above, just shine a light down so you can get a good visual for any movement.

Good call Ben. And I should have added the lower control arm to my list due to the amount of wear he keeps describing on this car.

I still suggest you check all these components previously mentioned. But honestly this may be your culprit. I actually have a driver's side lower control arm....if you need one and can't find it locally.

 

Any guess-timation on how much those components should run or any place you recommend as AutoZone is not the best place for parts?

What condition is that control arm in? Thanks again guys!

 

rockauto.com or courtesynissan. I go to the zone when I am impatient. These parts are cheap too.

 

wat about the right wheel? what does it do when you turn the wheels left?

keep in mind that even these FWD cars have a few degrees of caster in the suspension so when you turn the wheel to lock the "outside wheel" (left if you are turning right, and vice versa) is going to lean over toward the body some and the inside tire (right if turning right, left if turning left) is going to lean out away from the body some. It's a LOT more noticeable on RWD cars, especially Mercedes'

 

Before you really talk parts, you need to get your front suspension and steering components assessed by a competent facility.

Cost? It may be expenisve....I'm not going to check prices for you. You can do that through courtesyparts.com or the online auto zone or advance.

 

The right wheel does not seem to do it. The left wheel is really exaggerated. Even when I center the wheel, it does not always correct itself and makes the camber look really bad.

I figure that I will take it back to Northend Wrench, where it was worked on in the first place (however it might be quite some time before I take it there again as my front left wheel was not bolted on properly when I got it back. I thought that that was the issue at first, but on tightening it back down, I noticed that it still has the same symptoms). Sorry if I left this part out as I discovered it when I started to notice the lag in the steering.

 

If you're talking about the lug nuts, you better pull them off and check the threads to make sure they are not stripped. If there is thread damage, you will want to replace your studs or face going around a turn and your wheel falling right off. I've witnessed it once, not pretty! Was a Honda, so pretty funny after the guy got stopped safely!

 

Update on the situation. She drives much better now after the front left strut tower was tightened up. It must have come loose when the folks at the shop were working on the wheel bearings for me. Considering the wheel was loose when I got it back, I think that these guys are trying to kill me somehow. I guess that is what you do to loyal customers, huh?