Ok, I'm going to start pulling the heads off of my 93 VG this weekend. I've pulled heads off of numerous vehicles, but not my Max. Roughly, how long should it take for me to get these heads off? I have to replace a couple valves. I was told that the labor cost for taking apart and putting back together is around $1000.00. I'll be damned if I'm going to pay that kind of money. I just figured I would dive on in. Any tips or tricks to ease the process??? Thanks in advance!!!

 

There are probably tips and tech.s floating around on here somewhere so you don't have to make a new thread every time you decide to pop the hood. Some people might not respond because you can find the info you desire already without asking for direct help. My advice, though, which isn't given too openly here, is to use your head. Label your plugs and hoses to make it an easy re installation. Make sure and follow your torque specs and sequence, it's important. My local machine shop did a valve job on mine for $60 a head, with them off the car, and I had the parts to replace the funky stuff. Have fun and go for it bro!

 

I will be watching this thread with great anticipation...I need to yank my heads to replace some bent valves too (as soon as I find a place to do it).

 

Well, I will try and post my progress. I've read a few threads of others who ran into problems, so I will keep you all posted. Thanks!!!!

 

I understand, I wasn't trying to be the firum douche, but it came out that way! I often disregard others progress and regard the use of many threads to be specifically for reference and less of a concourse of progress, which leads to others reading too much just to find a simple answer. Though, it is obvious that I am a hypocrite because I am not contriubuting in any way with this post. Have fun with your project. I have a few gaskets laying around, i think for the thrittle body, and other places, perhaps the intake, which I don't need if you want them.

 

seems pretty straight forward;
I just pulled the motor out of my old parts car a month ago, and I am trying to remember what all I did, and what would need to be done.
based on what I remember, it seems like you drain the coolant, remove the upper intake manifold, then lower intake manifold, timing cover, and timing belt. then you should be free to remove the heads.
I simply stripped my motor to a long block, not bothering to pay attention to when I took what off (not going back in a maxima, anyway).

shouldn't need to remove the throttle body, iirc, but it may be worth the gaskets to clean it up.

 

It appears that headwork is the theme for this spring huh? I am also pulling my heads before summer. I am going larger valves, cams, and polish & port.

 

Yea like mentioned before the most important thing is do mark your HOSES i didn't one time and I had trouble finding what went were after. They're not much screws for you to remember besides valve cover, intake, and timing components... It's just being smart and not rushing because the maxima Is not as bad as other V6's. Good luck

 

As said numerous times before label everything and take a few pictures before you break down as a reference. Plus while your in there replace whatever looks like its on its way out unless you like digging off in your engine bay every few months.

 

anything on the bottom end? bigger cams like higher compression.

 

Not any higher compression. Still considering a completely different block (like Ben) and a blower.

 

Someone lied to you buddy! Just pull the heads yourself and drop them off to the machine shop...Price... no more than $250 to rebuild both!

 

Well, I think the $1,000 is for the labor of getting the heads off, not the actual head work. Either way, I'm starting tomorrow, and will let you all know what things were like.

 

What exactly does a rebuild at a shop entail? And I wonder how many of them use genuine Nissan parts.

 

Call them ( Brian/Jim) 713-433-7261...All I can tell you is, they're really good and thorough! I had so many heads rebuilt there...I can't even count on my hands or yours....If you want Nissan Genuine parts to be used just let them know...you can provide the parts or they can as well! MAXITECH CALL THEM !!! I'm not absolutely positive but their email is kentmachineshop@comcast.com

 

Will do! I am still working on finding a place to work on the car though...Geez, this is taking awhile...

 

Well, I worked on my max for 4 hours Saturday. Things are going smooth so far. Looks like another 4 hours and I'll have the disassembly complete. I'll be checking around the machine shops here in town and see what kind of quotes I get.

 

The email is wrong, I'll find that for you....

 

Don't worry about it, I will just call them. Thanks again!

I look forward to seeing some pics, Walter!

 

Well, your in luck. I took some while disassembling, and will take some more this weekend.

 

Any progress? I finally have a garage to work in and will be starting to work on my car this weekend.

How 'bout some pics?

 

I didn't get everything off this weekend. I had to rent a pulley puller to get the crankshaft pulley off. Hopefully, I will have it fully disassembled by this weekend. I have no idea how to post pictures here. Can someone tel me how? I'll try to post some this evening.

 

Read the stickies.
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...step-here.html

 

How 'bout some pics?

I pulled everything down to the timing belt and the intake plenum today. Those are things I have done before. Tomorrow the real fun starts, as I have never torn the engine down any farther than where I am now...

 

You've never pulled heads B4? You'll be alright...

 

Sorry, I haven't had a chance to post pictures. My camera batteries died. Anyway, It's not that bad. After you remove the plenum, take the fuel rail off, (marking fuel lines), then the intake manifold, ac/compressor and bracket and valve covers. You will need a 10mm hex socket to remove the head bolts. I also had to rent a pulley puller to pull the crankshaft pulley. I have everything off except the rear exhaust manifold. Does anyone know if I have to pull the crossmember to get the 3 exhaust bolts that connect the manifold to the Y-pipe, or can I just reach them with a socket and extension?

 

You can access them without having to remove anything. I had to heat mine up to break them loose.......

 

Getting them off isn't the fun part. it's putting them back together a month from now.

Y pipe comes off without anything else needing to leave. it's a tight fit for some of the bolts, but it's not that bad. you'll find it's one of the easier jobs you'll do in this project.

 

Cool deal, I should have the rear head off tonight then. Thanks!!!

 

I was having the same issue with the y-pipe earlier today. I am having trouble recalling how I got it off last time (4 years ago). I will go fight with it some more tomorrow.

 

Got the heads off without any problems. Now I just have to find out if the valves for the #5 cylinder are the culprit. So far, the valves aren't burnt or broken.

 

flashlight + dark room will help with the valves.

I had some bent ones on a VG once.. they looked fine at first.. then I stuck a flashlight in the exhaust port and turned off the lights. you could see a tiny ring of light around the valve. doh.
(similar to the below pics)



Another way is to lay the head on its side and fill the intake/exhaust port with water. see if it starts coming out around the valve.

 

Seems that my #1 intake valve is leaking. That seems to be the culprit of the miss that I'm having. Now, If I can just figure out why my #5 cylinder had no compression!!!!!

 

Which valve is it leaking from in the #5 cyl...? Any idea?

 

the intake.