Hey guys, briefly read through the stickies and the door lock thread I saw on there, but nothing that specifically related to my situation.

When I go to unlock the driver door (especially when it's cold), it feels like the mechanism is actually trying to pull it back down and working against me. I know I've read about this in the past and my initial thought was the door lock timer- though all other doors work perfectly, as does the master window switch when locking the doors. It's only when I try to unlock it from the OUTside.

I know newer maximas (I think 91 and up?) have the master door lock timer in the dash, but wouldn't that effect everything? Does each door have it's own timer? And if so, are they all interchangeable? Or is it simply the actuator on the drivers side?

Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

 

I refuse to answer the question, because you aren't ever here, anymore.

noob.


actually, I don't know.
my passenger front door acts similarly (only that door), and usually, only when hot. perhaps its a bad solder joint? random babbling, with no actual research done to verify.

 

I've had the some problem for a few years, it only happens when it's cold and I can get in by holding the key turned while I open the handle, or if I use the keypad the door doesn't try to lock itself. I don't know why it does it, I've never tried to fix it since it doesn't cause enough of a problem and I usually use the keypad anyway. As for answering your actual questions, I'm pretty sure there is only one door lock timer but I don't know anything else about the lock system.

 

I knowz. I miss it. Had a painstakingly long move, and been busting my ***** for Advance. Gonna have to do some pretty big work on the VE here soon but very good things are to come. itztops33kretz. But fixing the little things that annoy the **** out of me on a day to day basis is crucial for my sanity. A bad solder joint huh? On what, the main unit? Or something in the door? I've popped the panel off a dozen times now and I don't think I've ever noticed any kind of mysterious black boxes/ door lock timers in there. Hm.

 

It's contacts in the door actuator in the driver side door most likely. It's quite complicated unit compare to its function. Pull it out on the bench, clean it (you'd have to solder off - is it the word? the small PCB to get to the second level of contacts), re- grease them and you're good for another 2 years or so. Or replace the damn thing altogether. I'm telling this off my memory which is about 2 years old as you might guess - it just started to do it again.

 

Holy crap, whats happening to this forum. Where have the Matts, Jeffs, Dans, Greens, MrGones, and internetautomars go? I don't even see the recently frequent Chewbacca avatar guy, and the 1993-GXE guy with a new thread each day about how he needs help with something, but the help he recieves is never up to his "standards". A thread from 3 days ago, and not one has chimed in!? What has this world come to!? Someone needs to bring this place back to what it use to be.. And where the hell is Wiking!? Did he sail away to outer space in his VG?

Sorry for the rambeling Pearl93VE.. I had the same issue as you, except when it would get warmer out, I wouldn't have it. Im sure if you do a little more searching, you can come up with something, or just go with what Max 5gen said.

 

Im actually having the same problem, but I can turn the key and it won't open the drivers side door. When it does finally pop up after a few turns it pops all the locks up and back down. my keypad for keyless entry stopped working so I can't use it on the drivers side.
Is it possible to fix or change the lock/keypad on one side without the whole system being changed?
the inside lock buttosns work and the passenger side does too.

 

It isn't the door lock timer Max_5gen is right on what he is saying more then likely its faulty contacting power wire or ground wire grounding out inside the door actuator. You could always do an Ohm test to the actuator after you disconnect it from the electrical system of the Maxima and ohm it out to see if you get any reading that is more then 0 Ohm's since there should be no resistance in the wire and internal electrical of the actuator. Electrical issues in the 3rd gens are pain staking things to deal with. Like try having your trunk pop mechanism either it was the switch or the relay continuously try to pop the trunk. Or your cigarette lighter go on the fritz from not getting a good ground and or power source contact. Electrical in our cars is a fun task all in its own. I deal with many that arise in mine all the time.