Looking at a 94 SE Auto Max...need some advice
03-30-2010, 08:01 PM
#1
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Looking at a 94 SE Auto Max...need some advice
So, I have yet to rebuild my VG and I need another car so Ive been looking at some cars locally. I went today to look at a 1994 Maxima SE Automatic. Here are the details:
1994 Maxima SE Automatic
87,000 original miles
Black with Black leather (leather is IMMACULATE)
One very minor rust area on left rear corner (fixable)
$2,000.00
Here are the problems...please tell me what they would need to fix and if it makes the car a "pass" type of deal or a "buy" type of deal.
1) Sunroof is off track and will not open
2) left rear window will not go down (bad motor)
3) Low beams do not work but High beams do
4) I hear a clicking/knocking noise when running it (sometimes louder than other times but theres always a slight clicking/ticking)...and it has a minor shake at idle..smooths out at speed though. (I do not know what VTC Clack is and all the vids about it seem to have been deleted so please point me in the right direction to identify this...and if it is minor VTC clack, is it a bad problem or enough to say pass on the car?)
Please let me know about these things as I really liked the car and if these are all minor, I would like to pick it up ASAP.
Thanks
1994 Maxima SE Automatic
87,000 original miles
Black with Black leather (leather is IMMACULATE)
One very minor rust area on left rear corner (fixable)
$2,000.00
Here are the problems...please tell me what they would need to fix and if it makes the car a "pass" type of deal or a "buy" type of deal.
1) Sunroof is off track and will not open
2) left rear window will not go down (bad motor)
3) Low beams do not work but High beams do
4) I hear a clicking/knocking noise when running it (sometimes louder than other times but theres always a slight clicking/ticking)...and it has a minor shake at idle..smooths out at speed though. (I do not know what VTC Clack is and all the vids about it seem to have been deleted so please point me in the right direction to identify this...and if it is minor VTC clack, is it a bad problem or enough to say pass on the car?)
Please let me know about these things as I really liked the car and if these are all minor, I would like to pick it up ASAP.
Thanks
03-30-2010, 11:06 PM
#5
I'd buy it but not for $2k. at max $1200. The clacking is more than likely the infamous VTC (music to my ears). If you go on youtube and type in VE30DE you can hear and see the VTC clack and see it grounded.
03-31-2010, 12:27 AM
#6
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Deer Park Wa.
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$2000 SE
Everything you list is minor except engine symptoms. If you can take car to shop or mechanic with consult/ aftermarket code reader, you can usually diagnose problems. DO NOT RELY ON "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT! E.C.U. has seperate lights to read codes. At 87,000 miles it is unlikely you have a serious problem mechanically, but buyer beware. I would guess that 95% of the time the engine issues are nothing big, but be sure. If engine is minor then price is good....
03-31-2010, 04:07 AM
#7
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Im in Naperville but the car is in the city on Irving Prak road. The minor rust spot is no big deal and the paint is not the best but very presentable none the less. Overall, the car is really really nice and the interior is nearly flawless.
My hesitation comes from not knowing the VE and not knowing what VTC clack actually is (Ive read a lot about it and get the jist of it, its just new to me) and how to actually fix it. So, I would hate to buy the car for 2K and then have to put another 1K into it right away.
Yeah, I was surprised at the low miles and it seems to be accurate..tight steering..nice ride...smooth trans. Again, I just dont know the VE...the VG is simple and Im familiar with it but the VE is a whole new beast.
My hesitation comes from not knowing the VE and not knowing what VTC clack actually is (Ive read a lot about it and get the jist of it, its just new to me) and how to actually fix it. So, I would hate to buy the car for 2K and then have to put another 1K into it right away.
Yeah, I was surprised at the low miles and it seems to be accurate..tight steering..nice ride...smooth trans. Again, I just dont know the VE...the VG is simple and Im familiar with it but the VE is a whole new beast.
03-31-2010, 08:48 AM
#8
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 539
1) Does it leak?
2) I would just ignore it probably.
3) Probably bad contacts in the headlight switch, take it out clean it and it should be fine, search here there are a few threads on it.
4) VTC clack really isn't anything to worry about, they can run clacking for a loooonnnggg time before theres a problem.
How bad is the vibration at idle?
and I would buy it with those problems, all minor.
2) I would just ignore it probably.
3) Probably bad contacts in the headlight switch, take it out clean it and it should be fine, search here there are a few threads on it.
4) VTC clack really isn't anything to worry about, they can run clacking for a loooonnnggg time before theres a problem.
How bad is the vibration at idle?
and I would buy it with those problems, all minor.
03-31-2010, 09:31 AM
#9
At this point, probably 75 percent or more of all VEs have (or had) the VTC clack, at least a little bit. Even engines that have the VTCs rebuilt have it come back again.
Of those cars, I have read about only a handful having the VTCs fail. There are many members that have driven their cars over 100k since the clacking started. Most cars on this board are probably between 120k and 200k and most have been clacking since around 100 to 150k. The sound is a bit irritating, but nothing terrible. My car runs great and the VTCs clack some.
One good thing about VTCs is you can use that as a bargaining tool to bring the price down. Dealer quotes to fix it usually go around $1500 to $2000 if they will even do it. I think a lot of dealerships won't even do it anymore. The parts are getting more difficult to source and the cars aren't worth that much.
The sunroof is something you can fix pretty cheap/junkyard parts, etc, but it's a PITA. You need to take stuff apart. Not terribly expensive if you can get the parts.
Window regulators are under $100 and you can DIY in less than an hour.
The bulbs may be burned out on the headlights. I have had several low beams out, but usually just one at a time. It seems strange that both are out. Maybe it something with the wiring or corrosion? Not too sure on that one, but probably not a huge expense.
these are all good tools to get the price down. The dealership charges a few hundred to replace a regulator and probably several hundred to fix a sunroof.
I also think the price is a bit high considering the things wrong with it. I would think $1k with an absolute maximum of $1500. Even though the miles are low, it seems like the car was somewhat neglected. Most people fix a problem when it arises. When there are several problems still to be fixed, it usually means they didn't care enough to bother.
Sometimes cars that have low miles sit for a long time and that can often be worse than driving them a lot. This could be why it "shakes" at idle. Gaskets or seals could be dried out and the IACV or throttle body could be in desperate need of cleaning. It might also leak oil or other fluids, too.
Overall, it sounds like a good car.
Of those cars, I have read about only a handful having the VTCs fail. There are many members that have driven their cars over 100k since the clacking started. Most cars on this board are probably between 120k and 200k and most have been clacking since around 100 to 150k. The sound is a bit irritating, but nothing terrible. My car runs great and the VTCs clack some.
One good thing about VTCs is you can use that as a bargaining tool to bring the price down. Dealer quotes to fix it usually go around $1500 to $2000 if they will even do it. I think a lot of dealerships won't even do it anymore. The parts are getting more difficult to source and the cars aren't worth that much.
The sunroof is something you can fix pretty cheap/junkyard parts, etc, but it's a PITA. You need to take stuff apart. Not terribly expensive if you can get the parts.
Window regulators are under $100 and you can DIY in less than an hour.
The bulbs may be burned out on the headlights. I have had several low beams out, but usually just one at a time. It seems strange that both are out. Maybe it something with the wiring or corrosion? Not too sure on that one, but probably not a huge expense.
these are all good tools to get the price down. The dealership charges a few hundred to replace a regulator and probably several hundred to fix a sunroof.
I also think the price is a bit high considering the things wrong with it. I would think $1k with an absolute maximum of $1500. Even though the miles are low, it seems like the car was somewhat neglected. Most people fix a problem when it arises. When there are several problems still to be fixed, it usually means they didn't care enough to bother.
Sometimes cars that have low miles sit for a long time and that can often be worse than driving them a lot. This could be why it "shakes" at idle. Gaskets or seals could be dried out and the IACV or throttle body could be in desperate need of cleaning. It might also leak oil or other fluids, too.
Overall, it sounds like a good car.
03-31-2010, 04:19 PM
#10
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Awesome info guys thanks a lot. I think at this point I will offer the guy a low amount...see what he says and if he doesnt budge, just say pass on it even though it is super hard to pass on a black on black SE with low miles but hey...money is money and I can surely save as much as I can right now.
Thanks again guys...great info as usual.
Thanks again guys...great info as usual.
03-31-2010, 04:26 PM
#11
maybe we are just used to finding good deals. I check CL frequently (so does Hectic, he is near me) and I have seen some nice cars for under $2k. They are out there, but you have to hit it just right. It does take some searching.
I admit, I have never seen one with that low of miles, but I have seen some beauties with no rust or major problems with maybe 160k miles for $1000 to $1500. Several I would definitely buy if I didn't already have mine plus two other cars.
The low miles does make it very tempting and if it seems like it's worth it to you, pay what the guy is asking. The problems you describe don't seem like anything major, but that's no guarantee there isn't something hidden.
I admit, I have never seen one with that low of miles, but I have seen some beauties with no rust or major problems with maybe 160k miles for $1000 to $1500. Several I would definitely buy if I didn't already have mine plus two other cars.
The low miles does make it very tempting and if it seems like it's worth it to you, pay what the guy is asking. The problems you describe don't seem like anything major, but that's no guarantee there isn't something hidden.
03-31-2010, 04:34 PM
#12
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So, I talked to the guy..hes an older guy and very reasonable. I told him about the problems and the cost and he dropped to 1600...then I talked him down to 1450.00 because he said "you know what, I would rather it go to someone who knows whats wrong and fixes it than some woman who has it break down on her" So I thought that was very cool and I think Ill buy it for 1450.00...like I said only one minor spot of rust so Ill have that taken care of at some point and the leather interior is immaculate. The car does not leak and is pretty grease, oil free underneath so Im not worried there...it was just the newness of a VE and this clack that scared me off of it to begin with. So, I will pick it up and then still get my VG back on the road and have two perty Maximas to call my own 
The shake seems minor in the front end and maybe indicitive of needing a tune up which I try to do anyway with buying a used car. Do the injectors test the same way s on the VG or? I would like to test them too to make sure they arent going out on it.
Thanks guys.
The shake seems minor in the front end and maybe indicitive of needing a tune up which I try to do anyway with buying a used car. Do the injectors test the same way s on the VG or? I would like to test them too to make sure they arent going out on it.
Thanks guys.
04-01-2010, 05:02 PM
#14
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Ok, so I am not so worried about the small stuff anymore...I can replace or fix that no problem...the VTCs though still really make me uneasy about the car. I dont know enough about them and I can only find one or two videos on youtube about them. How do I tell if they are really bad or if they just need the filter and oil changed? Is there a level of wow, thats bad and eh no big deal? Or is it that oh theyre making noise, thats bad? From some things Ive read its no big deal and other things Ive read its a ticking timebomb...so how do I tell what Im getting into??
If there are ANY members familiar with the VE motors that might be able to check this car out with me I would GREATLY appreciate it. I just dont want to make a big mistake with the car. Anyone have any ideas for me?
If there are ANY members familiar with the VE motors that might be able to check this car out with me I would GREATLY appreciate it. I just dont want to make a big mistake with the car. Anyone have any ideas for me?
04-01-2010, 05:33 PM
#15
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Also..anyone have any idea where to find VTC rebuild kits anymore..Im coming up with nothing and the dealer only has VTC assemblies for 535.00 each. Would there be 4 total on the car? One per cam?
04-01-2010, 06:45 PM
#17
Don't worry about the VTC clacking, as far as reliability. It sounds bad, but the car isn't any less reliable. Technically, they are all "bad." It is a design flaw and it happens on virtually every car. Like I said, there are how many members on this board with a VE? Maybe a couple hundred. There have been maybe a handful that have had the VTCs come apart or bought a car where this happened (michael had one IIRC).
Go ahead and change the oil and use the Toyota filter. It might help some, but it won't solve the problem.
I haven't checked in a while, but Courtesy Nissan used to carry the VTC rebuild kits. You will have to do a search and find the part number. If you give a dealership that, they can search for it. Otherwise, it's kind of hard for them to figure it out.
There are 2 VTC assemblies (one per side). It is a cylinder with a spring inside.
**Edit** I just checked the courtesy site and they have listed the "Sprocket Assembly, VTC" for $405. I am not sure if that is for 1 or 2 of them. The best thing to do is call around. They still could have the repair kits in stock, just not listed on the site.
Go ahead and change the oil and use the Toyota filter. It might help some, but it won't solve the problem.
I haven't checked in a while, but Courtesy Nissan used to carry the VTC rebuild kits. You will have to do a search and find the part number. If you give a dealership that, they can search for it. Otherwise, it's kind of hard for them to figure it out.
There are 2 VTC assemblies (one per side). It is a cylinder with a spring inside.
**Edit** I just checked the courtesy site and they have listed the "Sprocket Assembly, VTC" for $405. I am not sure if that is for 1 or 2 of them. The best thing to do is call around. They still could have the repair kits in stock, just not listed on the site.
Last edited by Cliff Clavin; 04-01-2010 at 06:47 PM.
04-01-2010, 08:21 PM
#18
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 539
Really don't worry about the VTC's. I bet with an oil change they'll get pretty quiet. I also wouldn't worry about replacing them unless its bugging you that much, a lot of money for something that is really just a noise issue.
Injectors test the same way.
Injectors test the same way.
04-01-2010, 11:45 PM
#19
I haven't checked in a while, but Courtesy Nissan used to carry the VTC rebuild kits. You will have to do a search and find the part number. If you give a dealership that, they can search for it. Otherwise, it's kind of hard for them to figure it out.
There are 2 VTC assemblies (one per side). It is a cylinder with a spring inside.
**Edit** I just checked the courtesy site and they have listed the "Sprocket Assembly, VTC" for $405. I am not sure if that is for 1 or 2 of them. The best thing to do is call around. They still could have the repair kits in stock, just not listed on the site.
There are 2 VTC assemblies (one per side). It is a cylinder with a spring inside.
**Edit** I just checked the courtesy site and they have listed the "Sprocket Assembly, VTC" for $405. I am not sure if that is for 1 or 2 of them. The best thing to do is call around. They still could have the repair kits in stock, just not listed on the site.
Part number is in the TSB
04-02-2010, 12:12 AM
#20
How do I tell if they are really bad or if they just need the filter and oil changed? Is there a level of wow, thats bad and eh no big deal? Or is it that oh theyre making noise, thats bad? From some things Ive read its no big deal and other things Ive read its a ticking timebomb...so how do I tell what Im getting into??
I wouldn't spend much time obsessing, or someone else is going to buy it in the meantime. 87k miles is a rare find. I'd buy it, give it fresh oil and filter and make a decision on what car you want to keep. Maybe make a couple bucks in the deal.
04-02-2010, 11:29 AM
#21
Dont worry about the VTC clacking. If you do fix it you will pour a ton of money/labor into making a noise go away, and due to its design flaw it will just come back anyway.
What I would do is pull out all of your coils and check for cracks(all six come out with 2 10mm bolts, very easy). Also, test your injectors to see if they are at/around 11 ohms each(the front 3 are very easy to test).
Coils are around 80 dollars each. From my experience the top 3 coils are less likely to crack, but will arc out from the boots(the boots are cheap, thankfully).
also, as everyone else is saying, change the oil with an anti drain-back filter(this will help the clack)
What I would do is pull out all of your coils and check for cracks(all six come out with 2 10mm bolts, very easy). Also, test your injectors to see if they are at/around 11 ohms each(the front 3 are very easy to test).
Coils are around 80 dollars each. From my experience the top 3 coils are less likely to crack, but will arc out from the boots(the boots are cheap, thankfully).
also, as everyone else is saying, change the oil with an anti drain-back filter(this will help the clack)
04-02-2010, 11:44 AM
#22
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Well...long story short...I was going to get the money for the car form my dad as a loan but he is being a jag so Im not getting this car and on top of that, he refuses to help me fix my VG so Im F'ed...I posted both my VG and my parts car for sale so anyone interested, hit me up.
anyone want to jump on this now 1400.00 3rd gen, I can send you the guys number. hes a nice guy and the car is super nice too with just some minor things to fix. I REALLY wish I could pick it up but would like to see it go to someone on here...let me know if anyone wants the guys number.
Thanks for the help as usual though guys
anyone want to jump on this now 1400.00 3rd gen, I can send you the guys number. hes a nice guy and the car is super nice too with just some minor things to fix. I REALLY wish I could pick it up but would like to see it go to someone on here...let me know if anyone wants the guys number.
Thanks for the help as usual though guys
04-03-2010, 07:37 AM
#24
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I think I have decided just to drive my lease altima for a year and give it back...maybe 6 months before that, Ill pick up another maxima or something but for now, I cannot fix my VG or buy the VE so Im going to cut my losses and sell all that Ive got. The 93 VG and the 89 VG, and try to find another nice max like this VE I really wanted to buy. The odds of that are pretty slim but we will see in 6 months or so I guess. Someone should really pick up this maxima and save it from someone outside the forum who wont appreciate it. Its to nice not to be saved.
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