External Transmission Oil Cooler for VG30e engine?
12-11-2009, 06:46 PM
#1
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External Transmission Oil Cooler for VG30e engine?
I was wondering if anyone has installed an external tranmission oil cooler, and where does it mount onto, is the intallation easy or does it require drilling? Does it actually benefit the transmission as in longer service life than the factory oil cooler at the bottom of the radiator? I was wondering because I want to install one on my car when I get my transmission. I see lots of them on ebay but was wondering which one is the best to get? Also what would be the best transmission fliud thats a step up from the factory recommended one?
12-11-2009, 06:50 PM
#2
yes it helps the tranny live longer if it's been taken care of
takes like 30min to install i think
comes with ziptie thingies that go thru the radiator and hold it there. i put it on the left side behind the grille so it would get some airflow. should come with some hose.
takes like 30min to install i think
comes with ziptie thingies that go thru the radiator and hold it there. i put it on the left side behind the grille so it would get some airflow. should come with some hose.
12-11-2009, 09:52 PM
#3
Its worth it. I have one on my 02 for about a year 1/2. And its been running fine. Mine is mounted the same place that Caped just suggested. Takes a bit of load off my radiator. Funny thing is when people walk up head on with the car they mistaken it for a small intercooler.
12-11-2009, 10:05 PM
#4
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The top of the line fluid is Amsoil Synthetic ATF. It'll cost though, although the OCI is extended for the transmission so it could be worth it. There's a guy on this website who may sell at a discount - in the fluids section.
If not Amsoil than any Dexron 3 will do. I personally use Walmart SuperTech Dino ATF, and it's been fine.
If not Amsoil than any Dexron 3 will do. I personally use Walmart SuperTech Dino ATF, and it's been fine.
12-12-2009, 08:36 AM
#5
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Ok thas good, I will more than likely buy the external cooler. I have learned so much about transmissions these past 2 months until its crazy! But its a good thing. I always thought that draining the tranny oil from the drain plug was going to let out all the fluid that was in there. I will be recieving my transmission Next week. I was trynna do it myself but those axles are a bit$$ to remove especially the passenger side carrier bearing, Got all but one screw out. But I probaly didnt have it jacked up high enough because the jack stand set I have Is questionable because they dont have a double locking feature and I dont trust it. So I will be getting some new one that are safer, I was wondering if I need to invest in a CV joint removal tool, the driver side refuses to budge from the tranny, so I thought that taking the passenger side off would make matters easy, its just that dam carrier bearing thats in the way. I will probaly try my luck and see if I can get it unscrewed other wise I will just have to shell out $250 for someone to install the transmission.
12-12-2009, 12:43 PM
#7
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What tool is 20 bucks, a removal tool? Had I known there was one I would have bought it. Be careful banging the bearing bracket. It's screwed into the block, and you don't want to damage those bolts (they aren't that big, only M10 I recall) or you'll have to remove the engine to fix it. And watch the mechanic that he doesn't damage it either. They'll likely heat it with acetylene, but pounding on it too hard is a no no.
If it's siezed on really bad because of corrosion (and won't come undone), it's big mess. The engine may have to be lifted up to remove it, and this kind of stuff you may want to do yourself, or else the mechanic will hit you with a 500 to 800 dollar invoice. For that price you could buy your own crane and stand.
This is only if it were completely seized like mine, where the only way to get it apart was on a vice outside the car. And to actually get the engine lifted up, I had to cut the axle in half. So you may want to factor in the price of the equipment before you pay a garage, as that money could buy you the stuff for yourself.
If it's siezed on really bad because of corrosion (and won't come undone), it's big mess. The engine may have to be lifted up to remove it, and this kind of stuff you may want to do yourself, or else the mechanic will hit you with a 500 to 800 dollar invoice. For that price you could buy your own crane and stand.
This is only if it were completely seized like mine, where the only way to get it apart was on a vice outside the car. And to actually get the engine lifted up, I had to cut the axle in half. So you may want to factor in the price of the equipment before you pay a garage, as that money could buy you the stuff for yourself.
12-13-2009, 09:27 AM
#8
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What tool is 20 bucks, a removal tool? Had I known there was one I would have bought it. Be careful banging the bearing bracket. It's screwed into the block, and you don't want to damage those bolts (they aren't that big, only M10 I recall) or you'll have to remove the engine to fix it. And watch the mechanic that he doesn't damage it either. They'll likely heat it with acetylene, but pounding on it too hard is a no no.
If it's siezed on really bad because of corrosion (and won't come undone), it's big mess. The engine may have to be lifted up to remove it, and this kind of stuff you may want to do yourself, or else the mechanic will hit you with a 500 to 800 dollar invoice. For that price you could buy your own crane and stand.
This is only if it were completely seized like mine, where the only way to get it apart was on a vice outside the car. And to actually get the engine lifted up, I had to cut the axle in half. So you may want to factor in the price of the equipment before you pay a garage, as that money could buy you the stuff for yourself.
If it's siezed on really bad because of corrosion (and won't come undone), it's big mess. The engine may have to be lifted up to remove it, and this kind of stuff you may want to do yourself, or else the mechanic will hit you with a 500 to 800 dollar invoice. For that price you could buy your own crane and stand.
This is only if it were completely seized like mine, where the only way to get it apart was on a vice outside the car. And to actually get the engine lifted up, I had to cut the axle in half. So you may want to factor in the price of the equipment before you pay a garage, as that money could buy you the stuff for yourself.
I was saying that the Transmission oil coolers were at pep boys from $20 up to $50. I dont think my carrier bearing is seized because I just had my cv joint replaced like a year ago on that side by a mechanic and a new control arm which I ordered from ebay, plus new tie rods, and powersteering hoses ect. And the car spent most of its life in The Sunshine state of Florida, and it no resides in South Carolina. I just couldnt get that left screw of the three screws holding the axle to the bearing off because its in a somwhat tight spot and I didnt have enough crawl space.
01-23-2010, 11:52 AM
#9
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I have seen where in some instances that u dont have to remove the passengerside cv joint in order to remove the transmision. But the driverside seems to not want to budge. I have tried to yank it out since the transmission is going to be replaced anyway, maybe i will try to remove the 3 ball joint nuts and try removing it that way. Dont know its getting really frustrating.
01-23-2010, 12:21 PM
#10
I have seen where in some instances that u dont have to remove the passengerside cv joint in order to remove the transmision. But the driverside seems to not want to budge. I have tried to yank it out since the transmission is going to be replaced anyway, maybe i will try to remove the 3 ball joint nuts and try removing it that way. Dont know its getting really frustrating.
01-25-2010, 11:01 AM
#11
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I know this may sound like a dumb question but with the addition of an external cooler for the tranny, there is no need to use the radiator cooler anymore for tranny fluid right? Just wanted to know this because I am getting my tranny installed this week, and didnt want to have to replace the radiator if i didnt need to, just for the tranny cooler. Also is there an extension to the radiator that someone can buy for the top hose. A peice of mine cracked when I was intalling a new top radiator hose, its not too bad of a crack though, but was just wondering? thanks
01-25-2010, 11:08 AM
#12
I know this may sound like a dumb question but with the addition of an external cooler for the tranny, there is no need to use the radiator cooler anymore for tranny fluid right? Just wanted to know this because I am getting my tranny installed this week, and didnt want to have to replace the radiator if i didnt need to, just for the tranny cooler. Also is there an extension to the radiator that someone can buy for the top hose. A peice of mine cracked when I was intalling a new top radiator hose, its not too bad of a crack though, but was just wondering? thanks
01-25-2010, 11:34 AM
#14
well if you get one brand new it should say that on the box. i forget if it goes before or after the radiator tho... i think before but i'm not certain. haven't had a/t since almost 2 years ago so it's not quite fresh in my mind.
01-25-2010, 11:47 AM
#15
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Ohh Ok I will probaly go by and pick up one from advance auto parts. They were like the light duty ones were 20 bucks and the heavy duty ones are 30 bucks. which one should I get? im not going to be hauling anything with the car so Im assuming I need to get light dudy.
01-25-2010, 12:48 PM
#16
Ohh Ok I will probaly go by and pick up one from advance auto parts. They were like the light duty ones were 20 bucks and the heavy duty ones are 30 bucks. which one should I get? im not going to be hauling anything with the car so Im assuming I need to get light dudy.
02-14-2010, 06:14 PM
#17
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Where do you route the hose from the rad. cooler to the external cooler? I routed it between the air dam and under carriage rail. Not good if the car hits a parking block or curb when parking. It looks like if I cut out some of the radiator/fan mounting bracket (near the AC line), it can fit around the driver's side of the radiator. Any better spots?
Also I you're going to have sub 0 F temp, a by-pass is needed unless you get some low pressure drop cooler. Toyota Sienna 2003 has the OE external tranny cooler mounted under the front wheel well and headlights. Any successful installs on the Maxima there?
Also I you're going to have sub 0 F temp, a by-pass is needed unless you get some low pressure drop cooler. Toyota Sienna 2003 has the OE external tranny cooler mounted under the front wheel well and headlights. Any successful installs on the Maxima there?
02-18-2010, 10:18 PM
#18
I know Perma cool sells thermostats for coolers. I have one for my engine oil cooler. I believe they have one for transmissions. Works great, always allows some flow (5%) even when closed to prevent air bubbles and cold pockets. It stays closed till the fluid gets up to operating temperature, then opens to 95%. It is designed so that if it ever fails, it will fail open (per the website information). www.perma-cool.com
02-23-2010, 08:33 PM
#19
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Where do you route the hose from the rad. cooler to the external cooler? I routed it between the air dam and under carriage rail. Not good if the car hits a parking block or curb when parking. It looks like if I cut out some of the radiator/fan mounting bracket (near the AC line), it can fit around the driver's side of the radiator. Any better spots?
Also I you're going to have sub 0 F temp, a by-pass is needed unless you get some low pressure drop cooler. Toyota Sienna 2003 has the OE external tranny cooler mounted under the front wheel well and headlights. Any successful installs on the Maxima there?
Also I you're going to have sub 0 F temp, a by-pass is needed unless you get some low pressure drop cooler. Toyota Sienna 2003 has the OE external tranny cooler mounted under the front wheel well and headlights. Any successful installs on the Maxima there?
any suggestions on rerouting the external tranny cooler lines?
04-04-2010, 07:50 AM
#20
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One question about the external coolers? what if the tranny has not fully warmed up yet, IS there something inside the cooler lines that prevent fluid from flowing through if the fluid has not warmed up yet? Just got my tranny installed and back on the road, But it gets really hot down here, and I want to take that extra measure to insure that the fluid does not over heat.
04-04-2010, 11:19 AM
#21
One question about the external coolers? what if the tranny has not fully warmed up yet, IS there something inside the cooler lines that prevent fluid from flowing through if the fluid has not warmed up yet? Just got my tranny installed and back on the road, But it gets really hot down here, and I want to take that extra measure to insure that the fluid does not over heat.
04-04-2010, 11:41 AM
#22
One question about the external coolers? what if the tranny has not fully warmed up yet, IS there something inside the cooler lines that prevent fluid from flowing through if the fluid has not warmed up yet? Just got my tranny installed and back on the road, But it gets really hot down here, and I want to take that extra measure to insure that the fluid does not over heat.
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