1989 Nissan maxima early model IAT sensor? yes or no?
1989 Nissan maxima early model IAT sensor? yes or no?
I bought this chip that says to fit every car. it says to plug it into your IAT sensor, or sometimes called the AIT or MAT sensor. I cant find it anywhere. i tried auto parts stores, manuals, computer, and no one can tell me where it is, if anywhere. could you please tell me if the 89 early model has one? or if you know what chip i have where else it could go?
sorry, I didn't mean to have just spit beer all over my monitor, but that is some funny ish.
those "chips" are junk.
all they are is a resistor. send it back, if you can, get your money back, go to radio shack, buy one for 50¢
edit: to answer your question in a (only slightly) less insulting way, search for resistor mod.
those "chips" are junk.
all they are is a resistor. send it back, if you can, get your money back, go to radio shack, buy one for 50¢
edit: to answer your question in a (only slightly) less insulting way, search for resistor mod.
Last edited by BenStoked; May 19, 2010 at 08:12 PM.
Throw it away.
Our ECUs were not designed with a dedicated IAT or whatever you want to call it - the sensing of the intake temperature on our ECUs is integrated into the working design of the MAF, and you would be ill-advised to replace the actual MAF sensor's active element - it was mechanically sized to produce a certain timeous response to the volume of air passing it, and if you start screwing with that element the net result will be a disaster - the ECU will not know what the ingested actual air volume is and will not be able to compensate for intake temperature variations.
While its possible to replace the MAF element, you will undoubtedly make the vehicle a dog to drive and fuel economy is undoubtedly going to suffer.
Our ECUs were not designed with a dedicated IAT or whatever you want to call it - the sensing of the intake temperature on our ECUs is integrated into the working design of the MAF, and you would be ill-advised to replace the actual MAF sensor's active element - it was mechanically sized to produce a certain timeous response to the volume of air passing it, and if you start screwing with that element the net result will be a disaster - the ECU will not know what the ingested actual air volume is and will not be able to compensate for intake temperature variations.
While its possible to replace the MAF element, you will undoubtedly make the vehicle a dog to drive and fuel economy is undoubtedly going to suffer.
If however you have a faulty knock sensor you could temporarily substitute a resistor of 470K so that the ECU doesn't think that knock is present and as a result retards the timing.......................
However - there is nothing else you can do with a simple resistor to improve performance over and above what the engine was designed to do
what would you recomend thats cheap to increase performance? i got 2 1/2 inch cat back with no cat, cold air intake and just smaller stuff like plugs, plug wires and nothing else really. It gets up and goes pretty good but i want more, but more towards the cheaper side?
you sound like you have the basic "cheap" stuff done.
I don't feel like I would be doing my civic duty if i didn't suggest other performance mods;
*upgraded pads/rotors
*braided stainless brake lines.
after that, you start talking about more money:
*tokico/eibach combo for suspension,
*manual trans conversion (auto will die sooner with more power)
*upgrade sway bars
*warpspeed y-pipe and cat (I highly recommend the cat for performance reasons, not hippie reasons)
*apexi cone filter (best flow/filtration of most popular filters)
*ECU upgrade (jwt or nistune)
*z31 turbo swap
*clutch upgrade.
that all is roughly the order I recommend, anyway.
each of these are relatively cheap; under $500 if you take your time to source parts and DIY.
also should add, maintenance/repair items can significantly improve performance. bushings and mounts are subject to constant stress/deterioration.
replacement of motor mounts, and suspension bushing can have a hella good performance feel once done. Blehmco can make custom rear control arms for our cars. http://blehmco.com/suspension.htm
edit #93,713
are those your pics in the album? if so, change manual trans swap to ve-5 swap.
also, lose the wing. looks redonkulous.
I don't feel like I would be doing my civic duty if i didn't suggest other performance mods;
*upgraded pads/rotors
*braided stainless brake lines.
after that, you start talking about more money:
*tokico/eibach combo for suspension,
*manual trans conversion (auto will die sooner with more power)
*upgrade sway bars
*warpspeed y-pipe and cat (I highly recommend the cat for performance reasons, not hippie reasons)
*apexi cone filter (best flow/filtration of most popular filters)
*ECU upgrade (jwt or nistune)
*z31 turbo swap
*clutch upgrade.
that all is roughly the order I recommend, anyway.
each of these are relatively cheap; under $500 if you take your time to source parts and DIY.
also should add, maintenance/repair items can significantly improve performance. bushings and mounts are subject to constant stress/deterioration.
replacement of motor mounts, and suspension bushing can have a hella good performance feel once done. Blehmco can make custom rear control arms for our cars. http://blehmco.com/suspension.htm
edit #93,713
are those your pics in the album? if so, change manual trans swap to ve-5 swap.
also, lose the wing. looks redonkulous.
Last edited by BenStoked; May 21, 2010 at 02:16 PM.
haha thanks and yea i did lose the wing a long time ago. i put it on due to terrible bondo job to shadow it. the whole car has a parade shine. Im not sure if id like a auto trans. ? and the cat just adds back pressure dont it?
just enough that a good exhaust will compliment it. it also subtly makes it sound better.
forgot to add fidanza lightweight flywheel.
all of these can add serious hp.
you do realize more power isn't all there is, right? if you can't stop that power or maneuver it, when you plow into a wall, or another car, it all becomes scrap metal. also, all suspension mods (struts, sway bar) actually help you go faster, right?
and K&N is junk ****. unless you are trying to avoid gravel rocks getting into your engine, then it's fine. you should really spend the dough, buy a better filter.
I am sorry if I sound like a douche, just too tired to type it less baggishly.

my point is: power/speed aren't cheap.
nah man i know what ya mean, i was just curious of what could be out there, and i have a stage 2 clutch in it, and im not gonna race it or anything, its just a daily driver. just wanted to add something cheap to help it out a little. but thanks everyone
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ss...I'm just messin wit ya dude.