Well my mounts are dead when I pulled my engine they were flopping around like freshly caught fish. I'm tempted to go the el cheapo route and slap them back together with some polyurethane but I'm told it turns the car into a vibrator (I'm a man, get it?) my question is how much different is the poly filled mounts in comparison to new mounts.

 

If it's a manual trans, you won't see much difference in vibration...but it will vibrate if it's an automatic, like when in gear stopped at a stoplight..

 

last year i did custom poly mounts that are considerably tougher than stock poly filled mounts and it is great. Our engines are quite balanced so it isn't a problem. I wouldnt hesitate to do it at all.





really the only time the vibrations increase is a little bit while idling with the a/c on... even that is nothing though.

 

on a 3rd gen it's not an issue at all. On my POS civic (4cyl, no balance shafts) it's abso-mother-*******-lutely HORRENDOUS. so probably the people that told you that had 4-cyl cars.

so yeah, do the poly. especially if it's a manual car, the difference between rubber and poly mounts is immense. Feels like a brand new car, if not better.

 

Ok guys I'll give a go...thanks.

 

I bought new bushed motor mounts and then filled them with 3M Window Weld... No vibration what-so-ever!

 

Here's my say...I recorded this video in 2007 when I had two poly mounts. They didnt last very long either, make sure you let them cure long enough or they will sag like mine did.. Max sure felt great, a lot peppier feeling but WAY too rattly for me

A lot of the rattling you hear is from the tripod though
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PxPfhyrsPFE

 

what are those tubes with fittings for?

 

Thats the air pressure fittings for his custom mounted paintball gun

 

Yup... fully auto double barrel... There for the oil cooler i installed. 2 lines come off the back of the engine and connect to those hard lines and go up to an oil filter that is mounted in front of the engine.... then to a thermostat... and then to the cooler that is mounted front and center. I do a lot of track days/hpdes at road courses. so i needed some way of cooling the oil.

 

So.. ye or ne on the poly mounts OP?

 

Hmmm, I didnt think of the auto vs manual point. I knew I needed engine mounts and bought ES and right before installing I got a little nervous. My friend has a built motor in a 5spd honda and the vibrations were intense with this 3 poly mounts. The rattling from the dash and interior panels were too much for my taste.

I decided to forget about the ES and go with brand new OEM mounts. I changed all 4 at the same time. The car now shifts buttery smooth and I have no complaints. It's a swapped 5spd which has the 3" rear mount. I already had an extra front mount so now I have a set of spare mounts that can get ES inserts pressed in for the future. For now, I'd like to enjoy the smoothness.

I purposely stalled the car and it felt like I turned the key off in neutral. Its amazing, no more bucking and jerking of the motor.

 

Nice, I replaced all 4 on my 4th gen. 2 OEM (trans and timing chain side) and then Anchor rear, "Corteco" front... so far all are holding up but the front "Corteco" is busted... POS

 

I did so acquire the 3M Windo-Weld yesterday in the hope of filling them, but the impending rain on the horizon drove me away from my loved one. I ordered bushings for the engine cradle as well, not cheap I must say. I want to cut into the rubber a little so I can weld it "nice an tight".

 

I did not realize this thread was for 3rd gens. Are you guys filling in stock mounts with polyurethane? Is it a wise idea for me to do that with the brand new oem mounts I just installed?

 

i don't think you can just put the poly into the blank spots in the rubber. get a set of old busted mounts, burn the rubber out, if it's a 4th gen you're gonna have a few other obstacles to burn/cut out (tho for 4th gens energysuspension makes a press-in kit). then tape off one side, set the middle thing up in the middle and pour the poly in.

 

I was thinking of adding the poly to the blank areas of the stock mount to stiffen them up. It would now be about 70/30 rubber/poly but stiffer than stock yet not as bad as full poly mounts.

 

Anybody ever tried to just repair the mounts with poly meaning using it to glue the busted areas.
http://importnut.net/motormount.htm
and then this
http://tech.mirage-performance.com/enginemounts.html

 

i tried stuffing those areas with solid metal chunks. didn't help. the rubber itself is still soft, so it doesn't accomplish anywhere near as much as a full poly mount... maybe about 10% better than a stock mount wheras a full poly mount is immeasurably better than a stock mount esp on a manual car. as long as your tranny doesn't have any gear slack. my civic has bad bearings in the tranny which allow the shafts to dance around.. and all that slack actually makes the quality of the mounts totally irrelevant.

 

Gentlemen I'm gonna try the fix...I will take pics of before and after for your edutainment. Call it the hybrid poly rubber experiment.

 

But that's exactly what everybody does. I know that's what I did on mine and also what Aaron did as well as all the other 3rd gen guys I've seen.

It's really not a true "upgrade", it's just filling them with urethane as a way to fix busted mounts wile also stiffening them up a bit.

I "fixed" all my mounts with this method, even my tranny mounts that were nearly completely broken out. It's not just filling in the blank spots, it's actually kind of encasing the stock mount in urethane. I even fixed my shifter bushing with this method, just built a tape "mold" around the bushing and filled it up with urethane.

Augustus.. just tape up one side of the mount, turn it on its side, and fill that sucker up with urethane. Works just perfectly. There's probably a good dozen guys on here who've done it over the years. Of course, it's not a true "performance" mount but then again I don't think you're being naive and believe it will be. I didn't notice any extra vibration in mine. Of course, the hardness that you get will affect that

*edit* I just found my invoice, I actually used shore 80A (from research on other car forums/the web) as opposed to the 94A that seems to be popular on Maxima.org.. McMaster Part Number 8644K11

 

Thank you sir, first priority is the fix which saves me money and believe me she is very aggressive with my wallet as it is, second is the benefit of the polyurethane and third is the anti-vibrational quality of the rubber. And the way my mounts are busted I got a good area to fill. Now to go get me a caulking gun.

 

Heres mine I filled. I went to Graingers and got a poly resin product called DEXRON. There are different stages. The higher the number the stiffer the resin once cured. I used 80 (second from hardest).



And yes in pic 2 I know its off a bit, I've compensated for that. Just make sure when you pour the resin that nothing moves until it solidifies or this is the end result. Other than that I have to admit it was fun and I wouldn't mind doing it again in the future.

 

That's exactly what I did to stiffen they up without getting them to stiff, acts more like a polyinsert to limit the movement...But that's the idea isn't it? Mine are smooth and the engine stays put during hard acceleration...without being too extreme.....

 

i was always told that the poly won't bond with the rubber hence why it's better to burn it all out and put new in its place... or better to cast it then slide it in so it doesn't bond to the metal sleeve either. if it can slide over the metal sleeve rather than having the metal sleeve bonded to it, seems like that would allow it to flex better without cracking under torsion loads.

 

Poly filled mounts, I think the second best mod I've ever done.

 

Window weld comes out kinda thick, you don't need to tape up the mount. As to it's adhesive quality I will be observing it closely In the mean while I'll be looking for a pair of old mounts to experiment with. Anyone?

 

I don't think I am going to take the block out of the parts car

 

I might have to start thinking about this mod. I am just getting tired of digging around engine bays.

 

I cleaned My new mounts with MEK and cleared all the loose casting rubber out and squeegied the 3M window thru the mount surrounding everything,....more like a molded in insert!!!!!

 

What you need is an engine hoist . The mounts are curing nicely and I plan to bolt them up by Friday.

 

a jackstand with a 2x4 on top of it will do the trick too under the tall end of the oil pan

 

I strapped the mounts to the car today and guess what...no vibration!!! It gets firmer everyday so lets see how it will be next week but as of right now it's really nice and cost effective.

 

Mine dried for about a week b4 I installed them! U won't be dissapointed, the engine doesn't move and the vibration isn't noticeble at all! I used new mounts filled and completely enclosed in 3M window weld (liquid insert)......

 

As long as there's no dirt it'll stick just fine. I use 3m window weld for doing windshields at my work. The only 2 things I've found that it won't stick to is glass with dust on it, and other dried 3m urethane. Co-workers also occasionally use it to glue in floormat patches and headliners. LOL

Here's a good tip for the stuff, it does like pressure. So seal up one end, fill the mount with a little extra, then seal up the other side and give it a good squeeze. If you're feeling weak you can use a vice, or c-clamp.

 

Well, I filled up one of my spare mounts around May 16th-ish except I didnt use the 3M poly stuff rather my friend suggested some other crap he's used which was 7 bucks for a HUGE tube at Home Depot. I've allowed it to dry for over a month since 2 weeks after filling it, I poked in there and it was still wet and oozing. I'm gonna give it a shot and install it probably tomorrow and see how many days til I have to get the 3M stuff and re do it lol.

 

how's the shifting? much more noticeable on a 5spd than an auto due to the clutch being a 'solid' element. of course worn tranny bushings (like my civic has) will cause bucking and awfulness no matter how stiff the mounts are but if your tranny had no gear slack or worn bushings then it should be smoother than an automatic.

 

It shifts nice on the jack stands where it's been sitting. Can't say how it is on the road yet. I have a spare set of tranny mounts and the busted mounts that came off the 5.5 gen to fill when I get around to it.

 

ive done this to many vehicles


pros:
cheap
last a very long time, actually ive never had to replace a poly mount
solid motor
cheap..

cons:
vibrates
looks like crap unless you put time into it

dude. nissan charges hundreds for mounts. it costed me 20 bucks to poly them. the altrom mounts from popular parts stores break. you might get 6 months out of them

 

So you guys are saying that you have to just use a regular engine mount thats bad, and fill it with glue to the peices of the rubber that have seperated? My front engine mount is going bad, and I was going to grab one from autozone or somewhere, but if this poly method is cheaper, I would like to give it a try, although Ive never removed engine mounts before.