augnon

When I acc the car will make a rattling noise that if best heard from the drivers side.At first I though it was a lose cat cov heat shield.So today I got under the car and everything is tight.

I revved the gear in park and I did not hear the rattle it only happens when in gear at 1k-2k revs.Before or after that Rev range you don't hear anything.

Example when I'm in first gear I will hear it but then when I go to 2nd gear the sound goes away.


Info on car

1991 Maxima
Auto
150k Miles

augnon

I forget to the mention that during the rattle it feels like something is holding the car back lose of power.Also from a complete stop the car will rattle and it will take a lot of throttle to get the car moving.


I run 93 octane in this car.I think I have a partially seized caliber on the right side because I hear a scrapping noise when I'm driving at low speeds sometimes.I just changed the brakes and rotors.The other day when I hit the brakes at around 20MPH the car started shaking and made a loud gritting noises towards the front.I need some help with these issues also.I have the FSM for this car on my computer.

augnon

I keep forgetting to post things.


Today I did the test were you pull the spark plugs wires and listen for changes in the engine, well all the even cylinders were fine but 1 or 2 towards the back it did not make to much of a difference if I unplugged them or not, it was hard to hard because I live close to an airport.


What is the test called and used for, I know it is some type of trick to either see if an injector is working or a cylinder is firing.

This sound will can happen either when hot or cold and has the highest chance of happening when moving from a complete stop; example being at a red light and then taking off when it turns green

Another problem is I spell gas from the muffler, it is not strong gas somewhat sweet but not too sweet.I think this is called rich or lean?Maybee this is what is causing the rattle when I accelerate at low speeds.

augnon

I have tune a full tune up also.

Plugs,wires,cap/rotor, fuel filter, air filter, pvc.

I tried to get the o2 sensor off but it is stuck and every time I turn it I strip the bolt more and more.I checked for exhaust leaks also.I took something and cov the the tail pipe and listened for air escaping some where I did not hear anything.


I'm lost as to what is causing these problem.

augnon

More information


The idle is fine not erratic or anything.I don't think there is anything wrong with the transmission, goes right into reverse no delay no leaks.I did a test today were I parked the car go underneath to the cat and took a big stick and pushed the gas down I did not hear the rattle although I think I've heard it when the car was in park but, when the car is in gear it is a given.

The car never stalls but when accerartion off the lines sometimes it will bogg down.This is almost a given.One thing I've noticed is that when the idle is higher lets say 850 it will acc normally but when the iddle is just above 500 then there is a very high chance the car will rattle/bog down the acc.The MPG could be better.I do 100% city driving and I'm currently at 170 miles close to empty but know low fuel light on yet.

Garf

iTrader: (1)

Pull the codes form your ECU, see the General maintenance sticky at the top of the page for instructions.

It sounds like you have compound problems, your brake pads/rotors could explain the shaking under braking.

Bogging down when accelerating from a stop and a smell of gas from the exhaust indicate an o2 sensor problem.

The rattling I'm not sure about.

HTH

Gunther

is it rattling or vibrating?

augnon

I suspected the o2 sensor, I've been trying for about a month to loosen the bolt but the only 17 MM wrench I've found around here keep bending.

I'm not getting any black smoke when pressing the gas hard; so I'm not running rich I suppose.

Both.

I hear a rattling noise when driving almost like a disel or metal in a can.I good way to re-produce the noise is to to blow air out your mouth but try to make your lips "flutter".

I just did the brakes and I've had a had vibration twice now when braking at a low speed once stopped.I think I have a partially siezed cailber.


Today I put some lucas fuel injector cleaner in and I noticed a difference right away.I know 2 of the injectors were replaced right before I purchased the car.


Tnx for the replies folks.

Gunther

You could still be running rich enough to cause vibration before getting smoke. Pretty much a rule of thumb on these cars for me is to check the injectors first, and then work from there just because they are so prone to failure, and can cause pretty much any running rough situation.

Plus its easy to check them with an ohm meter.

augnon

I was going to do that today, I have one of those meters.I've also heard of using a screw drivers to listen for a rhythmical clicking sound but it is raining today in Boston.

It only happens if I press the gas if I take my foot off it goes away.

augnon

I think I have figured it out, it is an exhaust leak before the cat.

augnon

Just wanted to add to the info in this thread.


The car also has a misfire that happens most often around 1500 RPM this makes the exhaust leak sound more noticeable but the misfire is definably what is affecting the car the most.

Gunther

Check your injectors. seriously.

augnon

I have to unplug them correct? Or can
I just use the clamps on my multimeter to test them.

The prior owner had 2 injectors replaced but the shop receipt/log doesn't say which one.

Gunther

Unplug works, but if you have a multimeter do that. Should spec at 10-14 ohms

augnon

Yes I have a multi meter with clamps and with the 2 wires things, so your saying I can test it with the clamps?

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

wheel bearing?...maybe?

augnon

I should really record the sound; I really feel that it is related to the engine.

at 1:16 when he presses the gas my car sounds exactly like that.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHKczFZcXwA

zakmeeks

sounds like it pinging? your knock sensor would retard timing if it was. that explains power loss and noise

augnon

More like air passing between two or more metal points or you can make the noises by blowing air in the gap between your bottom lip and teeth only metallic.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Did you even watch the video? The video was a misfire due to a bad injector. You said your car sounds exactly like the misfire in the video (which was solved with a new inhector). You were told earlier in the thread to check your injectors.. On VGs once they start failing they normally all go.. If a shop replaced two you've still got 4 suspect ones

augnon

I've rested the case on the injector issue. but can you help with my issue im thinking about just letting the city tow the car away.

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...lost-help.html


This happened 20 mins ago, and I have no idea were start.