Lol hey my page has went about dead as well and I put alot into suspension. No ones a true enthusiast of the 3rd gen like a few of us left now on here.

 

Already did the Jeffy style CAI . Or should I say the James92se style.

 

Further more I did the radius rods (Moog) parallel links (Energy Suspension) strut mounts (Mevotech reinforced rear KYB front) GR-2 struts, endlinks and stabilizer bar with polyurethane bushings, replaced dust cap, bearings, spring hat,insulators, LCA, tie rod ends. New bushing in the rear stabilizer and endlinks.

 

Did you have pics of that? Sorry if my memory evades me.

 

did it really make it a difference comfort wise when you swapped in new rods and links? I dont really have the funds currently to get new rods and links all i have is this ES parallel link/rod bundle of bushings...you think its worth just swapping new bushings in for old ones or i probably wont feel the comfort im looking for and should hold out for new hard parts?

also jus a quick general question ever since i did the suspension overhaul i've been getting a terrible squeek when I pull off slowly or when I come to a hault slowly ( for example lightly applying brakes while coming to a complete stop, or slowly accelerating from a complete stop ). It kinda sounds like my springs are squeeking..lol if i could newbishly say that but is that even possible? What could possibly be making such a terrible squeek , I tried pin pointing it with my pal Ve but it just sounds like its coming the area around the wheels on both sides

thanks!

 

I took pics of the parts but not during the install. The entire suspension was replaced.

 

Lame @ not taking pics while doing install. I call bs in self installing if you have no proof of installing all parts you claimed to have installed.

 

I can take pics of everything that's been replaced on the car. And I got you beat by far you'll catch up and past me eventually, but as of right now...nah. Even my PS high pressure hose is genuine OEM how many 3rd gen owners will fork up $145.00 plus for a part they can get for $20.00. I can drive that biatch around the world and only stop for gas. That confidence came at high cost and personal labor. Remember if you want it done right you gotta DIYourself!!! Pics will be coming at you sir, because I admire your passion for the VE and I know how that feels.

 

As you can see I'm already sourcing genuine parts for my spare VE and the one powering my car, everything else is done.

 

Oh I forgot the VTC rebuild kits taking up space in my house. I can keep going you know!!!

 

My friends VE is sponsered by Beck and Arnleys so all his parts are strictly aftermarket. Except the main components. Never thought id see the day on the forums when guys argue who has more OEM parts elusive and augustus haha

 

To be fair, augustus was just showing all of his goodies.

 

I would comment and question but there too much of a newbie attacking feeling here for doing such. There are threads exceptional threads like this one. Which explains what the parts are, feels like a classroom, rather than a library. Where the "teacher" explains to you what things are and what it does to you vehicle rather than a "librarian" telling you search, which takes a longer time to find assuming one puts in the proper keywords. But that's my opinion.

 

UPS is dropping off MOAR stuff today...I'm reviving my classic and I'm not like the people who got a highly modded car with a stick holding up the hood . Or turboing my car while the body's falling apart.

 

i got all of my shiit done last year just kinda sucks i need a new engine but whatever

 

Lmfao my hood is held up on its own without a stick or anything of the sort aiding it in staying open. And only exterior mod ive done recently wad add skyline gt-r 34 rims. Oh by the way you wouldnt happen to have a set of jdm skylines rims would you? I didnt think so and im not done redoing alot of things on my car im far from being done believe that.

 

Oh boy here we go again.

 

This was my exact thought when I first saw this thread.

 

Lmfao........ . . . . . . . . Anyways

 

After I did the rear strut inserts I started hearing an annoying rattling which sounded like it was coming from the trunk area...turned out to be a rear endlink. Swapping them out along with all bushings made a huge difference in the feel of the car. Investing in a small press is good idea if you're not into pyrotechnics.

 

ohhhh mannnn why am i so late on the last posts so far on my thread lol wow i jus thought everyone was jus gona keep ignoring my questions but thanks for eventually answering lol first off tho sick collection of genuine parts i also noticed you said "kits" does that mean u have an xtra vtc kit you plan to donate

haha beck and arley dont forget Nissan sponsers me too. but yeah man i had no idea my thread would turn to the wild wild west of 3rd grn enthusiasts i love the battle to see who has more v e pride tho keep it up guys, but realisticly you should just take it to the track.

im a lil.confused are you saying this thread is a classroom thread or library one?

thanks a lot for answerin da questions tho all jokes aside. im really glad you said that tho cuz that rattle you talk about has been really getting annoying ever since i dropped it and replaced rear inserts but i felt like i always heard a slight rattle coming from the ttunk area , tho im glad cuz i feel like thats just another stupid noise ill never b able to pin point and fix cuz i feel lame wen the best i got to explain the situation is " uhh dam guys i hear a rattle from my trunk " lol kinda sounds like a heat shield near the muffler is smackin up nd down.

what are these rear endlinks your talking about parallel links or swaybar? is that he bundle of es bushings from courtesy nissan.you used too to make it nice or you used somthin else caause thats what i have but im wondering if they go on those other rods too or are they just for the paralel links..theres other rods tere called like radius rods rite.

also final question if you would be as to SO kind to answer augustus, its serioisly rusted in that area of my car "rear suspension" it looks like the threading on those long bolts on the paralel link will get striiped when i go to replace bushings did you have to order bolts from nissan when doing it or i shouldt really worry about it, thing is i cant afford to have my car out of commision for a few days if i wana take the risk of replacing the bushings without preordering alrdy the special.bolts from nissan but then again the bolts are 50 dollars :/ non refundable too so if i buy them and dont need to use them.then thats not cool lol so yeah i always appreciate your help man thanks again

 

http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/ge...12-0&width=450

I'm using Beck/Arnley rear stabilizer endlinks from Rockauto...quite cheap and well worth it! Be sure to use their discount code which is available online. When buying order left and right side. This is a part you can replace yourself, it's beyond easy.

 

Yeah I noticed you really replaced a lot.....Do you have bumstops on your front struts?

 

Classroom Thread.

 

cool thanks, did you have to order new bolts from nissan when you replaced those paralel link bushings, you know those long screws.

i order a beck n arley rear left one and then a mevotech rear right one ( beck only had 1 left ) and got some duralast swaybar bushings from autozone, but no upgraded rear sway =(. It was also really hard to find ES rear sway bar bushings for the max.

yeah i did quite a bit of work its funny im trying to look up what those are cant seem to get a solid answer lol um what are those exactly? i like to learn so as much info is always appreciated thanks.

ah okay cool i guess? heh i cant tell if you like this thread or not lol but i totally feel you about your previous comment on the "newb attack feel"

 

c-max i think i know what your talking about now is it the rubber boot that goes around the strut? nah i didnt if so, unfortunately im not an expert in the suspension field I mean I did try and take my time to learn about everything that should be done but just some things went right over my head like getting new strut mounts/the bumpstops you talk about and just other minor things that would make the overall quality of the job greater. I was more worried about camber lol and stupid other things but yah you live and you learn, ill take everything apart and put it together a million times till I learn everything lol i dont care.

 

No need to, they're long enough. I did buy a tub of ES grease so I could lube the bushings properly.

 

I'm talking about the dustboots/bumpstops which are all in one....and fit around the strut shaft so if you bottom out you bottom out on a energy absorbing rubber stop not not strut mount to strut body (metal to metal) which will destroy your strut....I saw them on the rear but not the front...

 

dam.. when you put it like that it makes me feel like im crappin on my front struts..i kinda newbishly didnt replace em on the front obv..think i should make time to take off those struts nd throw on some.bumstops in the near future to save my suspension? def gotta remove the spring from.it right? thanks btw for the cobstructive criticism i was wonderin if u clp.me out wit somthin else cmax ill post pics up so u kno wut im.tlken.bout

 

ok so basically here are my questions..help is always highly appreciated and as much details as possible is always welcome too lol..

1)correct me if im wrong but from what I can tell it seems like ill have to remove the rear cross member...gas tank and kinda move those hydralic brake assembly things in the back ( i dont know the name for them its those things on each side with that little spring ) to take those long screws out of the paralel links so i could replace the bushings back there.

2) idk if you guys noticed in the pics that it is SERIOUSLY rusted back, it looks/feels like if i blow on those pieces back there that it'l turn to dust. Im kind of not in the most financially stable situation in my life so I really dont have the money and time to replace all these brake lines that look like as soon as i start any work they'll start breaking left and right.

3) I know some of you guys are thinking that I may think that my brake lines are going to last forever, which i dont know lol its just originally i didnt think when i was going to do these ES bushings that i was going to have to mess around with all this rusted crap back there, i thought it could be avoided somehow, but i kinda dont wana do the bushings as of now if it means ruining the structural integrity of all those brake related parts backthere especially if i dont have the funds. =/

4) IMO i feel like i should just wait till i have more funds and replace all the brake lines as preventive maintence,( which i eventually planned to do anyway so i wldnt have to wrry about getting stranded) and do the bushings back there while im at it.

What do you orgers think i should do? Did any of my reasoning sound flawed? Anyone deal with such a rust issue like mine when replacing their rear paralel link bushings?

thanks a lot everyone!
http://imageshack.us/g/195/1306416792864.jpg/

 

Nope, just unbolt the cross member and lower it enough to pull the parallel link bolts out. Drop the rear stabilizer and lower the exhaust pipe. It's not as hard as it looks, man. It's the fear of the unknown getting to you.

 

those thing are called "load sensing valves" basically the more weight is on the rear of the car, the lower the rear sits, so the more those things open up to add some rear brake bias. i think only VE with ABS had them.

 

thanks for the feedback aug, its the not the difficulty of the job that im worried about and I pretty much see what needs to be done so thats not rly my problem. Im rly glad tho you gave me that perspective cause now when i put my car bak on the lift and i visualize doing it in the way you just mentioned it seems that its deff a lot more mechanic friendly.

Honestly tho my concern is the rust on the load sensing valves and those brake lines surrounding that area, its in really bad condition and at the time of planning this job while looking underneith my car it didnt seem possible to get the bolts out without even having to move those valves even over a little,or remove the crossmember without touching those valves, which in that case if i did i wouldnt have the funds or time to fix brake lines cuz of work/skool =/

the rust is ultimately the issue and i kinda never get a striaght answer from anyone here when i ask what issues or experiences people here have had with there 3rd gens due to rust that are related to my current problem, so sorry if it sounds like im revoking what you say, im rly not lol. im just being overly cautious cause of my situation and the fact that my rusted brake lines are extremely fragile.



thanks cc! i appreciate the detailed info. Are or were your load sensing valves rusted as bad as mine? my abs isnt currently working, would that mean those valves arent doing their job?

 

my car was non-ABS, so i never had LSV's to start with

 

ooo lol thanks anyway i hope someone reading.this wit abs chimes in

 

Wrong...the 1990 SE shell I swapped my VE into has them.

 

ahhh james where r u wen i need u lol you better be in stealth mode recently cause your getting rdy to post a new massive build thread lol jk

it seems like i have a leak from.the driver side axle seal does anyone kno the part # number for a ve5 drivser side axle seal idk if what im looking at is the right part it says oil-seal differential case..is this it or the other seal its called oil-seal input?

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/38342n-...611_1677_1691&

There you go son.

 

thanks a lot v e dad lol no rly tho thanks a lot bro!

hows ur temp guage btw any luck?

 

Changed the radiator cap and it's been better.