enomik-1

iTrader: (3)

yeah its been runnin good but dayumn, it happened again... nothing too too bad like before but i was on the highway and i dropped into third after being on 4th at low end and it started bogging on me again.. before it was certain to happen at least 5 or 6 times really bad to where my car would just die. this time i put back in 4th then in 5th and it was good. Also i turned off on me at a red light. But my rpms seem to be normal at idol and its only bogged on me twice. I still have to cover up those 2 lines. I have one of them circled in the pic and the other one is in the exact same place of the TB but on the other side (behind it).

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

That connector you speak of is the knock sensor harness connector. That was unplugged because mofoaka was running the knock sensor bypass with resistor in the harness end.

Did you remove the resistor?

If not, it might have fallen out. There's no way you could have plugged it back in with the resistor in there. Mofoaka was running the resistor because the KS was bad.

Half your bogging issues are likely from the bad KS and (apparently) missing resistor. I would unplug the harness again and put a resistor back in there.

enomik-1

iTrader: (3)

Damn man, I had no idea! I didnt see anything in the harnesss. I know recently I've noticed that I'm getting like a rattle from inside the motor bay and I can't tell where the hell its coming from. The engines oil is at full level, I'm hoping my motor is not knocking... It runs good and the noise will go away once the car warms up. So if I replaced the knock sensor would this end my problems do you think? It's definitely running better but I didnt know the car had a bad KS. Would a bad KS cause bogging, hesitation and idol drop?

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Well, I remember mofoaka saying/reminding you in one of these threads that he had bypassed the KS.

But in short, yes, a bad KS will make your car run like absolute CRAP. Normally a bad KS will just give a distinct "lack of power feel" but I had a different experience with one. I had a big thread on here a year ago trying to figure out an extreme bogging issue on my blue VE after I got it up and running (5 speed conversion, JDM swap). The car ran completely horribly and was barely drivable. I couldn't figure it out for MONTHS. It was especially aggravating because I replaced virtually everything on it before dropping it in. I went so far as to buy a new fuel pump, new gas tank, replaced fuel filter several times, fuel pressure regulator, etc. Like I said this went on for MONTHS.

I finally bypassed my knock sensor and it INSTANTLY cured my issues. I originally never even thought to mess with the knock sensor because the knock sensor was BRAND NEW. I got it on eBay from one of those sellers that all the 4th and 5th gen guys swear by. Supposedly true OEM knock sensors. They're obviously fake/bad though and sure did a number on my car. I've been running with the KS bypass for the past year.

*edit* Also, just looked at your pictures again. The "open line" you spoke of, is that the vacuum line in the picture or the actual metal nipple on the throttle body? That metal nipple is just a coolant hose. It runs coolant through the TB to help it warm up in extremely cold climates. I bet mofoaka was just doing the very common TB coolant hose bypass mod (just hooking the two rubber hoses together bypassing the TB).. unfortunately, that wouldn't have any effect on your symptoms. Did you just cap those or something?

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Also, it was this thread where mofoaka mentioned the KS bypass.

He said this on page one:

It says he just repaired the sub-harness. If I were you, I'd stick a new OEM sub-harness in there to rule that out.

When replacing the KS on VE's its advised to always replace the sub-harness as well. People over the years have found they're common to fail (and did fail in this case as mofoaka attempted to repair it).

enomik-1

iTrader: (3)

alright, thanks for clearing that up for me. well we're going to drop my brothers ve in his car not this coming weekend but the next.. wondering if the blown motor will have a good sub harness... is that sub harness any where in the pic? im assuming its one half of that connector.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

The subharness is the bottom part of the connector that runs under the water pipe and under the lower intake manifold to the knock sensor

mofoaka

hey dude..yea.. that was a coolant bypass i did that james is mentioning....i did this because my friend bought the phenolic spacer kit for his intakemanifold.. and he had a little connector that connected the tubes together that cost him a lot.. i instead just bought a longer tube to connect the coolant lines together and bypassed the TB.. that's why those pipes are left open like that... my guess is that the subharness has just failed because of heat and possible corrosion on the line.. it was soldered with new wire straight to the connectors and sealed with high temp silicone but anything can go with the heat between the two heads and the water pipe.. Try another 500ohm resistor.. its like $0.50 at radioshack or something..because its just too much work to get into that area again.. unles u can get some small hands in there to remove and replace the connector.. but on the connector is the metal C clip that i placed back on.. so its quite troublesome to remove without taking water pipe off.. resistor will do the trick... just make sure u give it 93 octane.. also.. with the knock sensor plugged in.. you'll notice the car drive in limp mode because the timing is retarded.... this will happen when the car is fully warmed.. when cold.. it will drive with a normal torque and power.. when hot.. it'll drive like 4 cylinder..did you ever look at the TPS connectors? makes sure there's no corrosion.. have you swapped out a coilpack from your brother's JDM engine?

i'm happy this car went to an euthusaist. looks good with the new wheels and fogs. did put on everything from our last meeting?

enomik-1

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I've done everything. Coil pack swap, maf swap, checked the tps. its weird because since that connector was plugged in it rarely does it to me. but i do notice a loss of power every now and again. dont like that.

so you did install a new knock sensor? and the timing is retarded? i thought it was at stock spec. let me know man cause i'm hoping this is the source to all my problems and i'm ready to fix this already. and yeah i'm happy i got it too. i've really fallen in love with this car.

Quick question how much power am i losing with the VTC's being disabled? just curious to know... I wish I knew how to fix them cause I would love to get the full potential out of this car.

to answer your question so far I've only installed the Intrax springs. I love the ride, I'm just driving it slow until I learn the roads in my daily commute. Hears a lil pic of the max with the springs installed. for more pics check out the thread I created in members rides.
http://forums.maxima.org/members-rid...ml#post7981153

Augustus Maximus

iTrader: (6)

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...-write-up.html

DMad8724

iTrader: (4)

not a fan of any 3rd gens with spoilers but that stillen wing on your clean max looks awesome

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

IIRC, Matt dyno tested with VTC's grounded and ungrounded and I *think* it was 12 hp loss with the grounded.

enomik-1

iTrader: (3)

Augustus Maximus:
Thank you sir. That looks like some intense work lol! scary for me. I'm learning though. Maybe one of these days I'll build the confidence to get my hands on the VTC's.

DMad8724:
Thanks man. I'm not even sure what wing that is but I know for sure its not stock. I like it too though. Mainly because its not coming up lol.

James92SE:
Thanks bro. Thats a pretty good difference. Geez! I'm thinking I need some VTC in my life..

DMad8724

iTrader: (4)

maybe thats the entire reason its attractive, because its not coming up

pretty sure its the stillen

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Just wire it up to a switch. Have them grounded at startup and at intersections or whatever, flip the switch to unground them while driving. Pretty easy/straight forward and lots have done it over the years

enomik-1

iTrader: (3)

Interesting... I would actually condsider that but I heard they were grounded cause they were already clacking real bad. I'll look into it.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Well even if they are clacking you can still unground them when you get up to speed. Ground them at stop lights or low speed and unground them when you get going. Even if they're clacking pretty bad you won't hear/notice them when you're going 20+ or so

mofoaka

yea, it was replaced for sure. i got it through internetauto. not sure if i still have the receipt but it was forsure replaced.

mofoaka

also, no i didn't mess with the timing, it was spot on the last time i checked.. but with a nonworking knock sensor, i believe the ECU pulls timing so it feels like there's lack of power.

enomik-1

iTrader: (3)

Alright cool. Just double checking thanks.