ve30max

iTrader: (2)

search keywords: "CV Axle slipping from lose connection with differential, bad grinding noise from transmission, manual transmission slipping"

Hey everyone, it's been a good while, and I'm sorry for that. Life goes on and the maxima saga does too.
Well, I got the 5 spd in after more than a year of deliberating, it works pretty alright, but on the final ride home (the first attempt ended up with an overheating and melted intake manifold gasket) the drive shaft appeared to jump out of place and spin. I had to leave it on the side of the road and today I got a friend to pull it to his house. The drive axle worked fine after I tried to get the car to move after we pulled it 5 miles, and it did just fine (I only went 5mph in 1st and Reverse in his drive way). Before she stopped with a grinding noise from the drive axle coming out a little bit, it felt like an automatic transmission slipping whereby the engine would rev up and then it would shift and catch the power......
My questions are as such. Should I worry about replacing the drive axles(s) or just the snap ring on the ends? Should I try and drive it in this condition after a good thrusting on the axles to get them in the transmission or fix it before any driving? I am curious as to anyone's experience with this too as it acted strangely......
I hope all is well and everyone is still driving their Max like they stole her.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

If this were me I would get a working trans for as cheap as you can afford. Swap the two out and move on to the axles. Does the passenger side have a snap ring? I have a vlsd 5spd which doesn't have a snap ring on the passenger side (purpose of the carrier bracket). Inspect the teeth of the axles to make sure they aren't ground down or rounded off. If so get some alright jy axles to get you home "The Goal". Once you get home you can dig further like checking clutch and org trans input shafts and gears. Had a similar situation for 9 months. Come to find out my driver side axle was off by a few mm on the teeth going in the trans. Got a 5spd jy axle and she moved like normal.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Like I mentioned to you in the classifieds you could get mine but need VE hubs and axles. Along with it doesn't have second. Your best bet is to get the other that was offered to you from I think either Hectic or Benstoked I can't recall right now. Just to get you home. Thats unless you desire a vlsd 5spd that you don't mind fixing to have fun with later. Priority first though. "Getting Home"

ve30max

iTrader: (2)

That may be more than what's needed. I appreciate your willingness to help, but I may not need anything but some other axle(s). There was fluid leakage on the driver side, and considering the carrier bracket on the other side, I think your right about the snap ring not being necessary if not even there. I have a VLSD trans with the proper axles and hubs, I suppose the driver's side axle didn't want to stay in with a work ring.

I think the transmission is okay, but I am still looking. I can't even afford axles right now, I may try to drive it home after I replace that axle, but I still have yet to look at the other axle port for fluid leakage. The slipping was explained to me to be the axle splines slipping and eventually catching which made it feel like an auto trans slipping. The same guy told me most of the behavior I told him about indicated the axle not sitting right, and he said fluid would seep out. He was right I suppose.

Thanks Maximo

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Its kool. I take it you fixed the overheating issue and damages. Yeah try replacing the axles first and see what you get. I still need to send this driver side I got back into Raxles.

ve30max

iTrader: (2)

I got her home finally. I tried driving her again and everything was smooth for about 30 miles or so and then suddenly while cruising at low rpm on flat ground there was a slip and then the grinding noise returned. I had to park her, and it seems to be the drive axle considering what my mechanic friend told me: it resonates at different tones in different gears, and the noise is coming from the drivers side where the axle is.

One strange thing about it was that there was a chunky noise when I didn't have it in gear and let off the clutch........ Another friend rode with me before I left Tennessee and he said he would bet money on the clutch being faulty considering the way something was slipping........ Does anyone have any insight, would there be a noise from the drive axle even if the clutch wasn't engaged?

I am happy she is home and finally has a 5spd in her, even if she doesn't move so well!

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

If the wheels are turning (car is coasting) and the clutch isn't engaged yeah it would make a noise. From the info you've provided I'm leaning mainly on the splines on input shaft of the driver side axle. You might want to check and make sure that the teeth in the tranny aren't off by a few cm. Probably aren't but its just eliminating all probability of issues down the road. I'm glad you were able to safely get it safely home.

ve30max

iTrader: (2)

The noise comes even when I let off the clutch pedal and it is in Neutral....... Which teeth in the tranny are you speaking of? Thanks again!

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

The ones in the differential that grab onto the splines. You have a different axle than before in there now right? If so then only things I can think would be a mount or bearing.

ve30max

iTrader: (2)

I Haven't replaced the axle just yet. I hope the bearings inside are okay,
I don't know what would cause the grinding noise around the axle shaft while the transmission is in neutral and the clutch is engaged?

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Swap the axle when you get a chance and see what you get from that. The driving and then loss of momentum (as if it were slipping or disconnected) I've experienced. No one had or could tell me what the issue was. After many trials and errors along with another trans I found out it was my driver side axle the entire time. Must be a tad bit too small (unnoticeable by the eye). I swapped it for a jy axle and voila it worked. as for grinding visually inspect your clutch, flywheel and throw out bearing. Its probably a combination of the pressure plate and tob not doing their jobs correctly.

ve30max

iTrader: (2)

I am happy to hear that, besides the fact that you went through such a hassle to get it right. I have been through a lot of trial and error as well, and I have a new axle to put in, hopefully I didn't damage the teeth inside the transmission. I will update after installation of the axle. Thanks again!

shiloh51933

iTrader: (5)

3rdgen owners here are some real enthusiasts!! Swapping a 5M/T into your 3G just to have problems is such a let down for all the labor. Even though you guys had issues after your swap you keep at it and never give up. I have a lot of respect for 3G owners on this forum. I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place with my 3G but I'm not giving up on her. My 3G is A/T with about a 150 thou on the odo. Eventually I'm going to swap a 5 speeed in her. I just want to finish the whole suspension, exhaust and under carriage. I read all the threads I come across concerning swapping in a M/T. Good wrenching and keep up the good work guys.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Kool. I don't think you messed up the teeth in the differential. You'll find out when switching axles. Take a flashlight and shine off in there once you removed the current axle and inspect. Also there will be a bit of gear oil that would leak out when that axle is removed (should be a leak). See if there are any metal shavings in the oil. As I said before I'm pretty sure that you didn't fumbar the the differential teeth. Only one way to tell.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

I appreciate the feedback/props. My car was/is an original 5spd car. I just thought I was having trans issues. Like I mentioned it was the axle the entire time. Basic essentials for the swap are the trans of course. If its vlsd then you'll need VE axles and hubs. The clutch pedal, TCM, shift linkage, clutch master cyl and intake manifold.

ve30max

iTrader: (2)

Update:

I attempted to replace the drive axle but apparently something isn't quite right. Either Rockauto sent me the wrong part, or I was misinformed when I bought the transmission by that I was told it was from the VE30DE not the VG.

The axle did not match or even fit......

The one I bought looks like this with only one section of spline on the right side.


The one that was in there looks like this with two splined sections on the right side.


Does anyone know which goes to which transmission?

I put the old axle back in, and there is about a half inch of distance between the seal and the drum which seems to be shaped perfectly to go inside or against the seal.....

I drove it, the grinding noise stopped but the slipping was still there; which tells me the axle is seated a little bit better now but it isn't the right axle if it's not completely engaged with the differential.

There was no oil leakage when I pulled the axle out either.

I am confused as to what the next step should be.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

The one on the bottom is for a non vlsd(RS5F50A), the one on top is for RS5F50V (vlsd). When you took the axle out could you see all the way thru to the other axle (no bar blocking the view)? If so then its a vlsd. Along with when you jack the car up in neutral turn one wheel the other should spin. From what I understand you aren't able to cross axles over. See if you have the bar in the differential. If so its a non vlsd.

ve30max

iTrader: (2)

That helps a lot and it appears that it is a vlsd transmission. So, I suppose the one I bought new, which is a MEVOTECH Part #CV3055, was listed incorrectly, or I couldn't translate their descriptive slang. At least, I know it's not the clutch, and it appears that the correct axle shuldn't be hard to acquire....

Thanks for the help.

ve30max

iTrader: (2)

Do you think the reason the axle isn't fully engaged may be because the transmission isn't mounted in the correct position? I don't know why the axle is sticking out so far, and I suspect it may be okay to use again.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Sorry I did some research (found some of my old pics) and I had it backwards. Vlsd axles have double set of splines (the bottom pic). So the one you received was for a non vlsd (reason as to why they didn't fit). I suggest going to your local auto parts store and buying axles from there. At least you don't have to wait on shipping.

ve30max

iTrader: (2)

Did you have any thoughts on the reason why the axle isn't engaged such as the tansmission sitting too far away?

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

It must not be in all the way. The diver side I usually have to use some brute force or a mallet on the other end to convince it in. When you hear you it snap/click its in. Like I said try a store bought axle or a jy vlsd axle if you can find one to see if it will fit.

ve30max

iTrader: (2)

I see, I thought it would be easier than that for some reason.... The axle I have should be okay as it matches the vlsd axle in the picture above. I guess we didn't get it seated correctly. I took the new ring clip off the new axle and put it on the vlsd axle I already had. The axle I ordered was supposed to be for a manual transmission with the locking diff, I hope they will be accommodating as I am sure I ordered the right one based on their description. It was a closeout deal so the info for the part is no longer on their website, which makes it hard to reference now. Thanks for the help!

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

I'm pretty sure they can still access that info. Just explain that you got the wrong axle and need to exchange for the other.

torqueymonster

iTrader: (3)

How much of a difference (is it measurable?) between length of an axle that's all the way in vs one that's not?? I've had 2 different mechanic friends look at it, and it's still doing it... both axles are new, and there's a new seal on the driver's side.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

I love me some RockAuto close-out.

The only thing that sucks on getting a close-out part that turns out to be the wrong one is they won't give you the close-out price on the correct part. Been there, done that.

Augustus Maximus

iTrader: (6)

I bought a pair of EMPI axles off eBay at better prices than Rockauto. I made sure I crossed checked the part number on the manufacturer's site before ordering.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Wow you just jacked this man for his thread.
Either your axle is not all the way in or your input seal is worn.

ve30max

iTrader: (2)

Yea, Rockauto is the best resource for cheap simple stuff; they supplied a greater portion of the parts I used during my rebuild too, and they have never let me down with their info in the descriptions being accurate.

I have yet to slam it in for good, and I will try and get some measurements for future reference if I can make something happen. Any tips on trying to set it without hurting myself or the part?

Maybe the name of the thread should be changed for easier referencing too as this could be a typical problem?

Thanks again.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Your symptoms to me seem to be pretty straight-forward for the axle not being all the way in. I've always had to tap my driver side axles in with a sledgehammer on the hub-side of the axle. Many times, the snap ring is overly large on the driver axle and you can't get it "popped" in by hand no matter what you do because you can't get enough "quick force" on it by hand. Hence, the sledgehammer (yet obviously you don't want to smash the F out of it).

One thing to keep mind of if you hit it on the hub side with a sledge or hammer or something, is that sometimes it'll make the inner CV joint compress (it will feel "locked" if this happens). If this happens, make sure to pop it back out because if not you'll put it all together and the axle will be binding and you'll have to take it all the way back off and re-do it. So just keep aware of that.

ve30max

iTrader: (2)

Thanks James, I am happy to hear this diagnosis more and more versus the clutch..... I suppose did you install the hub and use it to hold the axle in place whilst sledgehammering? What's a good clue to know when the inner joint has compressed?

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

No I just put the axle nut on the end and sledge hammer it that way but it's kind of cumbersome. I guess you could put it in the hub and hit it with a punch or even a socket extension or something - that might actually be easier without an extra set of hands.

A good way to tell if the inner joint has compressed is by grabbing the axle shaft in between the two CV joints and see if you can move it side to side. It should have some give back and forth (as this compensates for suspension travel and whatnot). If the inner joint compresses it won't have this movement and will have a fairly "locked" feel. It's pretty obvious when it happens as long as you're cognizant of it/watching for it.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

better to use the axle nut. u don't wanna mushroom the end of the axle to where u can't get the nut on. i did this to a tie rod end once.

ve30max

iTrader: (2)

After much delay and distractions due to my new toy (an 80's Honda motorcycle), I finally have the axle in place, but I am afraid the clutch does indeed slip when engaged into gear at med-high rpm. It's not burnt out, it's incredibly smooth and easy to use in low rpms, but it doesn't want to be raced I suppose.

Could the clutch become more adapt to the flywheel over time and have better performance?

Now all I need to do is get the power steering issue figured out, which may lead to removal of power steering all together, but that's another thread, another day........