thinking of replaceing my engine, I think the car is kinda worth it, but I dont know how much money it would cost. If it costs more than another used car, then I dont know about it. I know my car ran great before the timing belt popped, but ive never replaced an engine in anything, how long does it take, how hard is it, what all has to come off? Ive never removed the exhaust manifold or anything like that. Im confused, I dont know if I wanna save the car of fix it.

 

if you dont know cars, dont try to take the engine out yourself. you'll most likely get confused lol. if you can, work with someone that has taken out a engine before

its easy if you know what youre doing and can be done in a day. if you want you can use a Mercury Villager or Nissan Quest VG30E, theyre the only non-interference VG30E so if the timing belt snaps its not a huge issue

 

well,I have bought used cars for $500, which is roughly what it'd take if you knew what you were doing (you imply you don't, if im wrong, im sorry.)
otoh, an engine swap saves having to register a new car, insure a new car, get used to a new car... I say, head over to the reigonal section, ask for help; a case of beer and pizza can go a long way.

 

Just curious - if it's only timing belt, could just change timing belt (unless there's more issues w/ engine).

 

on interference engines if the timing belt snaps, most likely youve got bent valves and a bunch of other issues so instead of screwing around with a rebuild, a new engine is easiest. i have seen interference engines be fine after snapping the timing belt but its rare

 

If I were getting ready to swap in another motor I'd look at this as an opportunity to improve what you had. Like a non- interference VG or VE or Vg30et.... something better.

 

IIRC a Z31 VG30ET cant just drop into a 3rd gen though. to VE swap you have to do alot of wiring

 

Minor details when you consider the outcome but yes you'll have some extra work to consider.

 

For someone thats done it 3 times with a VE I can give you an idea. First drain all fluids from original engine. Second unplug all electrical connectors, hoses, pwr steering lines,A/C lines and remove harness from engine bay (hang over the fender). Probably easier for you to remove trans with motor attached (that way you'll have space to separate the 2 outside the engine bay). 3rd unbolt exhaust manifolds from y-pipe. Run chains and prepare hoist to lift motor. 4th unbolt all engine and trans mounts. MAKE SURE THE HOIST HAS NO SLACK IN THE CHAINS AS TO SUPPORT THE WEIGHT WHEN YOU FREE UP THE MOUNTS. Jack up hoist slowly while keeping an eye on engine and trans. While doing this a bit of shimmying and wiggling may be required. Once its out you can separate the trans and swap over torque converter and flywheel.

On the donor motor make a thorough inspection and replace the belt while its out REGARDLESS. Unless you wanna go through this again. While at that change the water pump while your at it. Check for any broken exhaust studs and replace (you will find it a whole lot easier to replace with the motor out). From there move in reverse of removal process along with replacing gaskets. Check all work and go over the fsm the entire time when doing this.

Matter of fact now after typing all of this I remembered. THE FSM TELLS YOU STEP BY STEP WITH PICS HOW TO DO THIS! How frustrating.

 

Thanks man, I will see what I can do as far as locating another engine, thats my only issue right now, and finding someone to swap it out for a reasonable price.

 

Car-part.com for the engine. Buy yourself a hoist $200 and the experience and know how you'll gain from this will out weigh the cost of leaving trust and money in someone else to do the job. If someone else breaks/needs replace you'll know the quickest route to get to it. The more you go in there the quicker you become. Your cal in the end.

 

Agreed i just did my first ever engine swap with a $200 JY motor... learned a lot drank a lot and cursed a lot but it works awesome and I have some pride in my accomplishment. Ended up i shoulda replaced rear cam shaft oil seal while it was out but live and learn.

 

IDK about the drinking part (life may have been easy if u were better focused) but congratulations. Its worth it.

 

Don't replace an engine with a different engine, especially an engine with greater HP compared to the one to be replaced. Some car components are meant to be stock. You can damage your tranny, differential, and clutch.

 

Chances are you only bent a few valves so replacing the whole engine isn't really necessary. The easiest way to get your car back up and running is replacing the heads with used good ones. You don't need to remove the engine and the cost should be under $500.

 

Well I dont really know whats wrong, with it and how many valves are bent, All I know is it just turns over like it wants to start but never starts. The mechanic said, it only had compression in one cylinder that was 90 psi, all the rest were below that. It still seems to turn over fine and everything. But some members suggested to just replace the engine, although the mechanic said that they would have to install new valves, and do a head job on it, he never said anything about replacing the engine tho. uhh now im confused. I was going to relace the engine this week.

 

When my friend and I replaced my VE, we lowered the engine and trans down to the ground and used the cherry picker to lift the front of the car and pulled out the engine and tranny from under the car. Left the car on jack stands and slid the engine, trans with cross member all put together under the car. Lifted engine and trans with the cherry picker and bolted everything back up.

 

Its cheaper if and easier to replace the heads. You could replace the motor but its easier and less agonizing to swap the heads.

 

Id like to go with the idea of replacing the heads if possible, but how do you know if you have a good head or not, will the car run right afterwards? I can tear the car dwn to the lowerer intake manifold, but most likely ill need to get some help or just let the shop install them.

 

Finially think Im gonna just fix the car. Ive so far removed all the plugs, wire harness, and the front air hose that goes to the air flow meter, all the coolant has been drained. Now im stuck on what to do next.

 

First I would say "get a book" I perfer Chiltons, it has alot of specs your gonna need. Starting from the top I would remove the top air pelinthum (9 bolts i think) and a bunch of small hoses and a few wire clips towards the front. You will also need to remove the EGR valve from the head to the exhaust pipe. take pictures if you can. Then the lower pelinthum (probably spelled wrong but about seven bolts) then the fuel rail (4 bolts). Remember the fuel rail is pressurized so be carefull when removing the fuel lines. You will want to have a place to lay out all of the parts to keep the bolts with the respective holes because sizes vary. Take your time and be paitent. I have done this several times and I have a grip of pictures on flicker if you want to see them http://www.flickr.com/photos/69535810@N08/6336988469/

I would be happy to speak with you via phone as well as it is sometimes faster for answers, IM me and I will give you my number. All in all its not a tough job if you have the tools, the shop and the paitence you will do fine, good luck

Darryl

 

Great, now you got me itching to twist a wrench....hahahahahahaha

 

good luck.

 

This guy did it in like 4 and a half minutes. :P http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZdI3IultQM

 

A buddy of mine has a 93 Quest that just broke a timing belt. There seems to be tapping coming from the back of the engine. Am I to understand that his is a non-interference engine? I was thinking to sell him the low mileage engine from my old 89 Max for $300 and swap it into his Quest. Would it be a straight forward swap?

 

for the most part, yes. all sohc vg's are pretty much the same. he may have to swap a few parts over from the quest engine, but it shouldn't be that big of a deal.

 

I think some simple stuff like the carrier bracket (I think) are different. Or was it the motor mounts? Anyway there isn't much to worry about.

 

The Quest VG30E should be non-interference. Is the engine tapping after changing the belt?

If you do plan to change the motor, the oil filter on the Quest is located in the front instead of the back and it is part of the oil pump, so the pump will need to be swapped, including the plate that will replace the Max's oil filter mount.

 

Head job is all you need!!!!!

 

Lol that sounded dirty.

 

Thats what it was I couldn't remember.

 

I was tryin to break it down for this girl, but she wasn't listenin.

..then the ***** wants to know "Hey.. where you going??"