3rd Gen Progress
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James, if you register on their site and add item to cart it will provide the part number and according to the rep. from nissanpartszone there are only less than 7 left in the nation so hurry and order it.
7mJoe, they suck but luckily its only 2 broken ones and the motor is already out so it will be easy.
7mJoe, they suck but luckily its only 2 broken ones and the motor is already out so it will be easy.
Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
James, if you register on their site and add item to cart it will provide the part number and according to the rep. from nissanpartszone there are only less than 7 left in the nation so hurry and order it.
7mJoe, they suck but luckily its only 2 broken ones and the motor is already out so it will be easy.
7mJoe, they suck but luckily its only 2 broken ones and the motor is already out so it will be easy.
James, if you register on their site and add item to cart it will provide the part number and according to the rep. from nissanpartszone there are only less than 7 left in the nation so hurry and order it.
7mJoe, they suck but luckily its only 2 broken ones and the motor is already out so it will be easy.
7mJoe, they suck but luckily its only 2 broken ones and the motor is already out so it will be easy.
Can you identify it on here?
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_...igPicture=true
You said it goes under the glass so would that be 79825? Though you said it was $70 something and the only part I see that's $70 is 79810, but that one looks like the main outside molding (and I remember you said the part you needed went under the glass).
Last edited by James92SE; Oct 18, 2012 at 12:18 PM.
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79825 is the one i just ordered and it is being shipped as we speak. 79810 will be my next victim. Remember both of those are extremely limited so order now.
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Shiloh no new pics yet. All ive been able to do is install new front windshield with SE trimming and install rear bumper cover. Right now im focusing on just replacing some preventative parts on the engine.
James; from the looks of it those are the only parts that seems we will need for the rear the glass. Ill snap some pics once one of them arrive.
James; from the looks of it those are the only parts that seems we will need for the rear the glass. Ill snap some pics once one of them arrive.
Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
Shiloh no new pics yet. All ive been able to do is install new front windshield with SE trimming and install rear bumper cover. Right now im focusing on just replacing some preventative parts on the engine.
James; from the looks of it those are the only parts that seems we will need for the rear the glass. Ill snap some pics once one of them arrive.
James; from the looks of it those are the only parts that seems we will need for the rear the glass. Ill snap some pics once one of them arrive.
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Well, the rear glass moulding finally arrived yesterday and in fact its the correct one. Now i need to order the SE moulding rubber seal that goes around the back glass. Today i went ahead and started replacing the valve cover gaskets; while trying to take off the upper intake manifold i accidently broke one of my injectors. The pins are still good but not sure if the connector will stay in place and i would hate to assemble it and disassemble later on. Wondering if any of you have a good spare injector for my '93 VG; its a tan injector.
But what dot color do your injectors have? It has to be either yellow or green and you can't mix them.
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jbbons25: i honestly can't see the dots you are talking about? i only removed the UIM and not the spacer to get access to the LIM. I'll just leave it as is since the pins are still in tact. Hopefully this shouldn't be an issue at all, i really don't want to drop anymore cash on this engine anyway since i will end up doing another swap in the near future when i have more funds available.
I guess with age, this will be also be hard to tell since it's painted on and it could have come off. The color dot would be located on the top of the connector part of the injector. Try to find one injector in your rail that may have the dot.
example (last image): http://microjet.ath.cx/WebWiki/2007....Wierdness.html
example (last image): http://microjet.ath.cx/WebWiki/2007....Wierdness.html
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I guess with age, this will be also be hard to tell since it's painted on and it could have come off. The color dot would be located on the top of the connector part of the injector. Try to find one injector in your rail that may have the dot.
example (last image): http://microjet.ath.cx/WebWiki/2007....Wierdness.html
example (last image): http://microjet.ath.cx/WebWiki/2007....Wierdness.html
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Over a month later and finally today i installed the engine and tranny back into my car. Still need to install the axles, replace vacuum hoses and fuel hoses, install my y-pipe and wire engine back up. Need to also reinstall the door handles then the door windows and door panels. Little by little and she is coming together again.
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Today, i began to install my door handles. Only the driver side is left since i have to put it together with the keypad and then install it. I also installed my door seals and window seals and then installed the windows except for my front driver side since i wasn't able to install the door handle yet. i still need to get an upper intake manifold gasket and replace all vacuum hoses and fuel hoses so i can wrap up the engine bay. Hopefully next weekend i can install my front bumper and finish up the front drivers door. Here are a few pics:
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So, yesterday i hooked up the battery to the car and finally rolled the windows up. Seems that everything is operating ok but still need to finish with the engine and connect everything in the engine bay. But ever since i took the car apart i can't seem to remove my key from the ignition. Not sure if the car still thinks that its in park cuz i never removed the Trans. Control Unit after i did my 5spd swap years ago. Also the engine harness is obviously still not plugged into the engine and trans. not sure if that has anything to do with the key being stuck in the ignition but i need my key out of the ignition!
Man I remember that happening to me on my blue VE when I was gutting it for the 5 speed swap. I remember being so pissed off about that. I can't for the life of me remember how I got it out, though. 
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GRNMAXDMON, I have a question. I'm in the process of pulling the engine in a 92 GXE to repair the broken exhaust studs and was wondering if you had any tips you could throw my way. I believe there are 5 studs total that are broken. 2 on the front and 3 on the rear. Also, did you pull your engine out the top or drop it out the bottom? I also read a few years ago when I had to replace the drive axles that I had to replace them one at a time because if I pulled them both out then a gear would drop off inside the transaxle. I don't know where I read that but wasn't sure if it was true.
Matt
Matt
I'm loving the progress on this car... In for more updates!
This exhaust stud issue I hear everyone talk about.... I've dealt with it in the past multiple times on 1st gen pathfinders and 3rd gen Maximas, and I've done it myself a few times, paid a mechanic a few times, and once attempted it and failed miserably and had to tow the car to a mechanic.
So one thing I can say is this is one of those things you let a professional do. It's nowhere near as much a pain in the *** to them as it is to us. No pulling the engine, no broken easy outs, it's done in a day or so, and I've never been charged much or it. Not enough that I ever want to attempt it myself again.
This exhaust stud issue I hear everyone talk about.... I've dealt with it in the past multiple times on 1st gen pathfinders and 3rd gen Maximas, and I've done it myself a few times, paid a mechanic a few times, and once attempted it and failed miserably and had to tow the car to a mechanic.
So one thing I can say is this is one of those things you let a professional do. It's nowhere near as much a pain in the *** to them as it is to us. No pulling the engine, no broken easy outs, it's done in a day or so, and I've never been charged much or it. Not enough that I ever want to attempt it myself again.
Let e clarify to save a little dignity here... On the last car I mentioned, there were six broken studs, 3 in back 3 in front, all of which I was successful with except for the last one on the front, which turned into a botched up mess.:/
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GRNMAXDMON, I have a question. I'm in the process of pulling the engine in a 92 GXE to repair the broken exhaust studs and was wondering if you had any tips you could throw my way. I believe there are 5 studs total that are broken. 2 on the front and 3 on the rear. Also, did you pull your engine out the top or drop it out the bottom? I also read a few years ago when I had to replace the drive axles that I had to replace them one at a time because if I pulled them both out then a gear would drop off inside the transaxle. I don't know where I read that but wasn't sure if it was true.
Matt
Matt
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thanks, and yes i am reinstalling the lip kit. If you take a look at my sig pic, thats how the car will look when its done. Just yesterday i went ahead and finished replacing vacuum hoses. All i need to replace now is just the spark plug wires, fuel filter, alternator and power steering belt and clutch master cylinder. Change oil filter and oil, add coolant and power steering fluid. Maybe 1 more month and i should finally be done, then take her back to the bodyshop for wet sanding and buffing, get the title changed to my name and get a new tag.
Sorry guys, apparently i came to a dilemma where i couldn't install the rear glass cuz i need a moulding that goes under it. Called nissan and courtesy and either one of them do not carry it anymore so i hit up nissanpartszone.com and they actually have the moulding. the rear glass are the same for both gxe and se and so is the moulding. now i need to order the rubber seal that goes around the glass for the SE. once i have both i can finally install the rear glass. right now im currently trying to remove the broken exhaust studs from the cylinder head and replace timing belt with camshaft seals and both motor mounts, then the motor goes back in and then i will continue with the exterior. its a very slow process but i really don't want to rush it.
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No it isn't. I took the car apart at my parents home and then towed it to the body shop. Once it was done painted I towed it back to my parents and began to reinstall everything and then I can drive it back to the shop to get it wet sanded and buffed. Aside from that, thanks. 
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Take your time and do it right.....While in there You might wanna upgrade those valve cover screws with bolts....I find it easier to tighten with a socket, once intake UIM is installed a gearwrench or boxed end wrench can still tighten them.....I use loctite on these V/C bolts cause I don't want them to ever loosen on their own from engine vibration.
Were you able to get all the window trim off without breaking it? I know how to remove the "belt moldings" (the ones parallel to the ground at the door/glass junction), but the rest seems tricky