Does anyone know what the relays control that is located under the dash next to the fues box on the 3rd gen maxima? I have a problem with my car and I'm puzzled because i turn the key on then turn it off and it does not switch off the power to the car. I can still put the windows down and see the check engine light, break light, ect around the speed cluster. Also i pulled the last relay out the one cloest to the pedel and the lights go out. So i'm trying to find out what does that one control please.

 

They control virtually everything.

 

I kinda think that but i was trying to find out what does the last blue one at the bottom of the fuse box control because when i unplug it that's when the power shuts off.

 

Why don't you just replace it? It's obviously sticking.

Here's all the **** the ignition relay provides power for:

Radiator fan system, air conditioner, ascd, time control unit, anti lock brakes, meter, gauge, warning lamp, back-up lamp, inhibitor switch, rear window defogger relay, digital touch entry system, sunroof system, daytime light unit, shift lock system, turn signal, cornering lamp.

The relay coil is powered by the same wire that the ECU is powered from. If the engine turns off with the ignition switch then you can bet that the relay is stuck closed..

 

I swapped the relays with two different ones and it still does the the same thing. The lights on the dash stays lit also enough the break check engine...,ect.

 

Tell me exactly what doesn't turn off. Could be a bad time control unit, but I have to take a closer look at some things to confirm.

 

The lights on the dash does not turn like brake light, check engine, oil, ect. Also when I have the master window on the driver door i would be able to put the windows down with the key out. This all happened after I rebuilt the motor from top to bottom. But when i go to the fuse box inside the car i pull out the relay that is blue and is the last one at the end closest to your knee the dash lights turn off. I wanted to find out what that relay controls so i can narrow down on the probable cause.

 

I don't know if you have solved your problem or not, but I was looking at the schematic for my old 94. The relays from top to bottom are: Rear Window Defogger, Accessory Relay 2, Accessory Relay 1, Ignition Relay 1. The relay you are having problems with is the Ignition Relay 1.

When this relay energizes, it connects the battery to various sections of the car's electrical system. Some of thes are your gauges, meters, back up lamps, rear window defofgger, sunroof, power windows, power antenna, radio seat belts, theft, turn signals, corning lamps, radiator fans, a/c, cruise control and more.

Since you swapped the relay and still have the problem, obviously the relay itself is not the problem. Something is making the relay energize. That something is the ignition switch. Contact # 3 of the ignition switch is the one. Measure the white/green stripe wire from the ignition switch. It should only have 12 volts when the key is in the ON or START positions.

 

I figured that that's the problem. But, i also know i have a draw coming from somewhere because when i hook up a test light to the ground on the chassis then touch the negative battery post it lights up. I also disconnected the ignition switch from the harness after turning the key on and the digital lights that say how fast i'm going and rmp goes out but the check engine lights will all stay on. I just have to figure out how to do a draw test and probably go from their. Correct?

 

That relay is staying on either due to transient voltage, bad ignition switch or faulty wiring. Crossing the streams could be very bad.

Go to harbor freight and buy the fuse ammeter, it will come handy in this situation. Find each and every live circuit after turning the ignition off, compare with FSM routing.

 

What is FSM routing? Also I had a guy come by to try in figure out what was the problem. He was the one that told me that i had power coming in the negative side. I went home and tested it for myself and it only happens when one of the other terminals are hooked up.

 

I don't think I've ever seen this. Do you have a problem with the battery going dead? I would follow the negative battery cable to where it connects to the chasis, then unbolt the connection and clean the surfaces that touch each other, getting them nice and shiny.

As for the relay problem, pull out the relay and using a volt meter, not a test light, measure the relay connections in the fuse panel for the relay energizing coil to a good ground. The 2 widely spaced connections are for the coil. One of the contacts is connected to chasis ground and the other is the 12 volts from the ignition switch. I don't know which one is which. The grounded contact should always read zero and the other one should read either zero or 12 volts, depending on the ignition switch position.

When you have the ignition switch off, check for a low voltage on the contact from the ignition switch.

 

the relay is not the cause since swapping em didnt solve the problem. so something is bypassing the ignition switch or the relay, energizing the rest of the circuit. use the wiring digram from EL in the fsm for the right engine (ve or vg), to isolate the problem in the circuit. do an overlay if necessary or repair the faulty component.