Door Locks Problem (With Insite)
#1
Door Locks Problem (With Insite)
I have read quite a few accounts of the door lock problem and I know about the Door Lock Timer Solder fix and the Drivers side master switch. Here is another fix to this problem and I think I can shed some light for the folks with alarm problems. But I still need help to fix a part of the problem though.
Problem: 1. My passenger side door would not lock. I would hit the lock switch on the driver’s door and all the locks would go down but I noticed that the passenger lock **** was slightly higher than the rest. You could push it down a little further and it would fully lock it. What this condition did was. If you unlock the doors from the driver’s side (and had that passenger side **** up slightly) the alarm would go off because the alarm was activated but the passenger door was not fully locked. It was in-between lock and unlock) Everything works great if you reach over and push down the passenger lock **** all the way. This problem could be on any of the doors. Mine just happened to be the front passenger side.
Fix: I went into the door panel and checked the Door Lock Actuator. When activated, it would not go down all the way. I took it out and took it apart. I cleaned all the connections. I reassembled and it seemed to work better but eventually, under load did the same thing. It appears that the gears or internals were worn enough that it would not fully go all the way down to the locked position, if there was even slight resistance in the activation rods. I tried moving the gear teeth around and the problem ended up being in a different place in the locking and unlocking sequence. (Now it would not fully unlock the door). So the fix for this would be a new door lock actuator. When the actuator moves the lock **** all the way up (unlock) and all the way down to (lock) like it should, the alarm will not sound when I unlock and open the front door.
It was interesting to see how just this little thing affected the operation of the entire alarm. I bet that allot of people on here that have the alarm problems have this door lock condition. The lock **** position was slight enough that it was hard to notice the door lock **** not being fully down. But you could push down on it and feel it fully lock.
Problem 2. I have a problem with my Drivers door lock. I cannot get the driver’s door, to unlock all the doors (turning the key to unlock twice within 4 seconds to unlock all doors). It works sometimes but very rarely. What is the part that controls this action? I have read that it might be a magnet that senses the unlocking action but what part am I looking for? I think I have identified a part called the (Door unLock Key Switch) But I am not sure and what is the part number?
Problem: 1. My passenger side door would not lock. I would hit the lock switch on the driver’s door and all the locks would go down but I noticed that the passenger lock **** was slightly higher than the rest. You could push it down a little further and it would fully lock it. What this condition did was. If you unlock the doors from the driver’s side (and had that passenger side **** up slightly) the alarm would go off because the alarm was activated but the passenger door was not fully locked. It was in-between lock and unlock) Everything works great if you reach over and push down the passenger lock **** all the way. This problem could be on any of the doors. Mine just happened to be the front passenger side.
Fix: I went into the door panel and checked the Door Lock Actuator. When activated, it would not go down all the way. I took it out and took it apart. I cleaned all the connections. I reassembled and it seemed to work better but eventually, under load did the same thing. It appears that the gears or internals were worn enough that it would not fully go all the way down to the locked position, if there was even slight resistance in the activation rods. I tried moving the gear teeth around and the problem ended up being in a different place in the locking and unlocking sequence. (Now it would not fully unlock the door). So the fix for this would be a new door lock actuator. When the actuator moves the lock **** all the way up (unlock) and all the way down to (lock) like it should, the alarm will not sound when I unlock and open the front door.
It was interesting to see how just this little thing affected the operation of the entire alarm. I bet that allot of people on here that have the alarm problems have this door lock condition. The lock **** position was slight enough that it was hard to notice the door lock **** not being fully down. But you could push down on it and feel it fully lock.
Problem 2. I have a problem with my Drivers door lock. I cannot get the driver’s door, to unlock all the doors (turning the key to unlock twice within 4 seconds to unlock all doors). It works sometimes but very rarely. What is the part that controls this action? I have read that it might be a magnet that senses the unlocking action but what part am I looking for? I think I have identified a part called the (Door unLock Key Switch) But I am not sure and what is the part number?
Last edited by NBD925; 12-17-2012 at 08:20 PM.
#3
It was the defalt I guess!
I use it because i'm the dark avenger!
NO . . . I thought it was the way it looked for my personal post I guess. I didn't know you could change it. I'll change it to white now. Thanks for clueing me in on that.
NO . . . I thought it was the way it looked for my personal post I guess. I didn't know you could change it. I'll change it to white now. Thanks for clueing me in on that.
#4
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_...igPicture=true
Not sure if it's the tamper switch deals or what. Get an aftermarket alarm, never use a key again. Good info on the actuator. I take it the nylon gears were all worn?
Not sure if it's the tamper switch deals or what. Get an aftermarket alarm, never use a key again. Good info on the actuator. I take it the nylon gears were all worn?
#5
Lock Problems
The nylon Gears were worn but no teeth are missing or anything obvious. What happens is the actuator works but just before it pulls all the way down to lock, it stops and hangs up. This happens when you put a small amount of resistance on the lever actuator arm. If you don’t apply any resistance it will USALY work correctly. You can push the actuator arm down to help it and it will go to full bottom.
There was a guy on here that said he desoldered the connections on the actuator board and went deeper into this actuator than I did. I hope he chimes in at some point. Not sure what causes this condition.
As for the drivers door unlock sensor, it looks like there is a small magnet on the cylinder or next to it that senses the lock turning to open. Two opens within 4 seconds = all locks unlock. There must be a wire that fails here. I can't imagain the magnet going bad. It must be a bad connection. I am going to go into this part of the door tonight so I'll report back as to what I find.
Anyone look into this problem? ----> Pasenger Door works with the double turn to unlock all doors but the drivers door does not work or works every 50 times or so.
There was a guy on here that said he desoldered the connections on the actuator board and went deeper into this actuator than I did. I hope he chimes in at some point. Not sure what causes this condition.
As for the drivers door unlock sensor, it looks like there is a small magnet on the cylinder or next to it that senses the lock turning to open. Two opens within 4 seconds = all locks unlock. There must be a wire that fails here. I can't imagain the magnet going bad. It must be a bad connection. I am going to go into this part of the door tonight so I'll report back as to what I find.
Anyone look into this problem? ----> Pasenger Door works with the double turn to unlock all doors but the drivers door does not work or works every 50 times or so.
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