too put it shortly the didnt find ****...

i drop the car off at 8:00am go thru the 20 question on what the car is doing.after that i tell em to dont go over 3500 due to the motor just being rebuilt and sometimes the factory alarm doesnt turn off when opened from being locked etc so i leave..come back at 2:30 they havent even looked at it yet said they are short 2 tech's but they will be looking at it in 30min if i wanted to wait i said id come back..came back at 4:30pm this is what the service advisor told me.

advisor: well we found a knock sensor code also you have an aftermarket fuel pump and that was it.
me: i was like thats it a knock sensor code is all they pulled up
advisor:yup
me: so seeing how i have a aftermarket pump in there you cant find my problem..
advisor: the tech did say instead of wasting my money and his time that it would be best if i took it back to the people that rebuilt the motor and have them look at it..
me:well me and a friend rebuilt it..
advisor:??????????????????????????????????????? oh i didnt know you were the ones that did the work..
advisor: seeing how we couldnt find a problem with your car we arent going to charge ya anything today..
me: seeing how i wasnt going to get a good reason why they couldnt find my problem i just left.
.................................................. ....................

so bascically because i had an aftermarket fuel pump on there they couldnt find out why my car is bucking/stalling etc.. which is funny because its the same fuel pump i had in there when i bought the car i dont know what type it is but im sure its a nippon denso or equal to i know for sure its not a hihg flow one or anything.. besides i dont think he took out the pump and actually looked at it. last i thought nippon is the one who makes the factory pumps to begin with..anyway..

basically because the problem didnt pop up on the MUT tester they cant fix or find my problem..i call that just being f%cking lazy..
im going to go up there tommorrow and ask the tech if he can copy the voltage reading for the mas sensor fuel pump and all things realted to what could cause my problem and ill just troubleshoot the problem myself screw em..

well that was my dealership results sorry so long..

Wow. Okay now that I understand a little about what's happening, let me see. So it starts? How does it idle? Barely? Crappy? Does it ever run good? ie.. when cold? Warm?

If it runs really bad all the time, it could be that you didn't align all the cams up right on the install. But usually when that happens, it doesn't even start at all. If it starts/idles okay, check to see if you have your base timing correct. This might affect the way it runs. Also 3x check all your sensor wires. You may have forgotten one or two in the engine installation.

Truth is when you do this kind of major work, diagnostics are a nightmare. Take a deep breath and check things out one by one and don't assume anything. I can really blame the Nissan tech(they do sound rather lazy though). Trying to diagnois an engine problem on a custom build engine is very/very difficult. Probably 10 times more difficult.

I can try to help but you had better write a complete description on what the engine is doing.

Jeff92se: the car idles fine whether cold or warm idles about 750 or so it starts right up..the car mostly acts up when doing this example:sitting at a light waiting for it to turn i see the other direction light change to yellow i begin to give it gas a few times getting the revs up light turns green i attempt to go leaving about say 2200-2500 let the clutch out all the way give it more gas the boom the car just bucks. so i remedy this by letting off the gas until the revs drop a bit then give it more gas and its fine..

2nd scenario: just rolling about say 40mph go to acclerate get to about 50 or so say about 4500 rpm and it bucks again do the same thing as above then its fine.

3rd scenario:just letting it idle after its warmed up the car will just die sometimes the tach will go up and down a few 100 rpm's then stall other times it just stalls with no warning..

4th scenario: it does run good but when it runs good without bucking etc i can take it all the way to 7000 but it just doesnt feel like it has any power in any gear all the way to 7000..i mean about 4500 5000 the intake starts screaming like it should but it doesnt pick up any speed and it doesnt feel like it going any faster just more noise from the intake..

i have noticed that it "seems" to buck more when its warmed up the more i drive it the more it "seems" to buck..im thinking its i ignition timing problem not being set right..

i know i have everything hooked up i have quad drouppled checked everything 4 times over if not more...the only thing that is not hooked up is the knock sensor still waiting for it to come in but that isnt going to make it run like crap from 1500 to 3000..but hey ya never know in certain cases.

i know what your saying about trying to find a problem on a rebuilt motor but everything that has to do with ignition or electrical is still factory..know what i mean..

Okay it sounds like you installed the cams right and have the cam/crank timing correct. I think I saw that you are running higher compression pistons. When you this is changes what the engine needs timing and fuel wise. So if you are running the stock ecu, it might be confused by your non-stock compression ratios. That would explain why it's not making more power over xxx rpms. But go ahead and get the knock sensor in there and see how it runs.

As a general rule:

The compression of the engine dictates how rich/lean the engine needs. And the size of the engine dictates how large of carb(or in this case fuel injectors) you need.

What you might want to do is get over to a dyno facility that has ignition timing and a/f ratio meters. They might be able to see what you car is doing in those rpm ranges. If they also have an exhaust temp guage, that would be great also.

Good luck.

thanks Jeff92se ..i was trying to wait on the dyno til i had more miles on it but we did build the motor loose so it should be all right maybe..as far as the ecu goes i have the JMT i guess level 1 ecu and at the time i got it i only had intake and cat back.so maybe it might be time to send it in for a tune-up..
i do have a buddy that owns a dyno with a wideband 02 reading so i might be giving him a call soon..
thanks for the help

No problem. I know you spend alot of money and time on this.

Besides I'm being nice so I can drill you for questions later.

ok seems fair enough... they didnt have a smily with a drill but this is close enough..
ask away now if ya want..

Man, this is why doing major surgery on these new engines with all their sensors and electronics scares the heck outta me! Isn't technology wonderful? Now we can get better milage, performance and emissions, but at the cost of technical complexity. The prinicples are all the same, but an engine guru from the 50's or 60's would have a heart attack looking at our engine bay and trying to diagnose a problem.

Best of luck with your problem and big props for having the nerve to rebuild your engine.

(And who knows? Maybe the ECU needs inputs or continuity from that knock sensor to be happy?)

You should also try retarding your ignition timing like 2-5 degree's. When Mike Kojima built his 11.1CR SR20DE it detonated like crazy on stock timing with the JWT ecu at light throttle loads and such. Maybe in addition to a bad knock sensor this is what you are experiencing. If you haven't now you should check your fuel pressure and FPR, I have heard that some stock FPR couldn't handle a high flow fuel pump. However the VE FPR should be good though. But in the meantime retard that base timing.

As nismo said, I'd put my first two guesses on fuel and the ECU.

1. put the stock ECU back in it if you've got it.
2. check ignition timing and RETARD it from stock timing, due to the high compression.
3. check fuel pressures, and make sure you're getting correct fuel pressure to the injectors.

4. get the car on a dyno for a tuning session.. don't just do runs and see what the power is, but put it on a dyno and get it running so you can physically stick your head under the hood as it's doing it's bucking and stalling crap. it's amazing what you'll notice on a dyno that you won't see on the street. (it also shows up on screen in the sensors and power measurements)