After a long wait it finally arrived here yesterday around noon. I bought the car around Christmas time and while awaiting delivery I scrounged up some parts at the local pick n pull.

I pulled a manual 5 speed trans with all the goodies to install it from a 90 SE. I have collected quit a few other parts from 2 other 3rd gens as well. Just last week the pick n pull got in a wrecked 93 SE VE 5 speed that I pulled the shifter assembly out of that I needed, it also had black/grey interior but after looking everything over I decided it was too rough so I let it be, besides someone had already taken the front seats.

Now on to the Digimax. I did not want to post about it yesterday because I was kind of upset about it and needed some time to think about what to do next. I knew the car needed some attention and that it was a "project car" and after all that's what I was originally looking for so here goes..........

The Digimax has a ton of issues, so many infact that I didn't even know where or what to begin with. So after work today I pulled the max into the garage and spent the next couple of hours going over and inspecting the car.

Engine: Flywheel is toast. Starter skips and grinds but engine does fire right up, infact I started it at 5am this morning in -8 coldness and it fired right up. I am very pleased with how the engine sounds, no missing, no ticking, no smoke and no rattles at all so that made me feel a lot better. Engine bay very filthy but should clean up with the help of a pressure washer.

Idle is a little higher than it should be. Further inspection reveals minor vacuum leaks around throttle body and intake plenum. Easy fix.

Motor mounts completely shot all around. Engine rocks horribly when going from park R and into D.

Cooling system: there is rust/corrosion in the radiator. topped off cooling system with a half gallon of antifreeze and instantly turned dark brown. Coolant not circulating properly, top hose hot and lower hose cold with temp gauge in the middle, possible stuck thermostat. Cooling fans inoperable. Heater hose inlet lines loose and leaking. Found no evidence of oil in cooling system at this time.

Steering system: there are noticeable clunks while turning the wheel slightly back and forth while in park. I did drive the car around the block yesterday for a total of 2 miles. Will have to check this issue out when I get it up on the lift but I assume either worn bushings or worn steering rack unit.

Suspension: Sonar system completely inoperable. I believe this may be due to a faulty computer brain box. With key "ON" and engine "OFF" I should be able to hear the electronic shocks change from mode A to mode B and I don't hear anything at all. Car rides and handles okay but it could be improved.

Exhaust system: Nice and quiet so no issues there.
Brake system: No brakes, pedal to the floor. Faulty/leaking master cylinder. I knew about this so I ordered a new one last week, easy fix for me.

Emergency brake goes all the way up and needs adjustment OR the rear brake shoes are worn and need replacement.

Exterior: I give this one a 7 out of 10 condition wise and that's only because the trunk lid is out of whack on the driver side, driver door sags badly due to worn upper hinge, mismatched exterior mirrors and the antenna is broken off but I have replacement mirrors and antenna ready to be installed and are relatively easy to do. Other than that there are a few dents and dings here and there and a couple of rust spots but that is expected of any car this age. The paint could really use a good claybar and wax job but in due time. It is very dirty from the voyage down here.

AC system: Compressor belt off and AC system empty, will worry about that issue later.

Heating: What heat, there is no heat.
Blower Fan: Only works on high and I believe this problem is going to be with the fan speed resistor because the CCU was recently repaired. All other HVAC components function properly.

Autotragic trans: Shift lock out inoperable, overdrive switch wires cut. I knew the transmission was an issue beforehand but I think it will last long enough for me to take care of some other priorities before I get into doing the manual 5 speed swap. Easy enough to fix the shift lock out and cut wires for the overdrive switch.

Ignition switch on the floor.

Keyless entry inoperable but I might have this figured out already.

All door locks work except passenger front. I already replaced the master window switch.

All windows work except passenger rear.

Digital dash display works flawlessly but speed sensor in trans is faulty as speedometer reads 15/23 mph while in park.

Factory alarm disconnected and for good reason.

I was very pleased to find the cruise control operational because I will use this a lot.

Well, after looking over everything on the car today and trying to decide on what to do in this situation, I almost came to the conclusion that this one would be better used as a parts car to aid in fixing another one. However, since I can do 100% of the work myself I am going to give this one another chance.

So my very first priority will be under the hood in the engine bay performing some neglected and way over due maintenance.
1. Timing belt, water pump, thermostat.
2. Complete cooling system overhaul.
3. Brake master cylinder/bleed brakes
4. Oil/filter change.
5. Repair all vacuum leaks.
6. Inspect steering system.
7. Trans fluid/filter change.
8. Belts/hoses.
9. All 4 engine mounts.

Well this should keep me busy for a few weekends.
Here is how the Digimax looks right now, just off the transport truck.

 

Slowly working on getting things sorted out. I am making a list of replacement parts that I am going to need like belts, hoses, motor mounts and a slew of other stuff that keeps piling onto the list of things needed so I am going to wait and order everything at one time.

So far I have been able to do some other repairs. Had to replace most all exterior lamps, some burned out and some were missing. Replaced driver side front park lamp assembly and both wiring harnesses.

Replaced brake master cylinder but I still need to flush/bleed the brake system.

Removed instrument cluster to replace some burned out bulbs and to clean up a bit. Replaced the bulbs in the CCU and others in the center console and it is almost back together. I want to install a radio soon so I will finish that off then.

Factory alarm is now functional again. The problem turned out to be a faulty alarm module, Security light flashes now. The alarm would go off when the old module was plugged in.

Keyless entry system is now functional again. Since the driver side door panel was already off I simply unplugged the old key pad and plugged my replacement in and it started working so I did the same on the passenger side. I will have to finish this up over the weekend because I want to use my replacement door handles since they are in better condition so that means I will have to transfer the lock cylinders over from the old handles.

Lower dash on driver side is now completely back together and looking better. The steering wheel needs to be replaced as it is worn just about everywhere. I would like a completely different wheel all together because this half moon wheel is ugly.

Installed a interior dome lamp assembly since it was missing and I found a really nice one at the JY with a bunch of other stuff.

Right now I am trying to track down a bad electrical short on the interior lamp circuit. 10amp fuse blows instantly and sometimes it will take up to 2 minutes and then pops. I think I might have the problem narrowed down to the trunk light switch or a faulty dome lamp control relay.

 

I saw this day coming..

 

Got the brakes bled this morning, my mighty vac came in handy because I had nobody to help. Rear brake shoes and one drum need to be replaced though. Brake shoes are completely worn.

Installed the 03 maxima wheels and tires, looks much better now. While I had the front wheels off I got a closer look at the steering system. I found the steering rack to be the cause of the clunking I hear when turning the wheel. The passenger side wheel can be moved at least an inch in either direction. The driver side wheel can be moved about a 1/4 inch. I am going to need a rebuilt unit. Wheel bearings feel good all around and the lower control arm bushings on the driver side are shot, luckily I can use our presses at work to replace them when I get around to it.

Installed my Clarion head unit with two 12 disc changers in the trunk. I left the MB quart 6X9's in the rear deck that don't sound to bad. I will have to hook up the fronts at a later time.

The dash and console are completely together now, glad I scrounged up some extra screws and clips during my JY run.

I noticed the check engine light come on so I started messing around in the engine bay. I temporarily replaced a vacuum line going from the intake plenum to the ICV with one that's not supposed to be on there and I tightened the loose clamps on the intake plenum and adjusted the idle down. That seemed to have taken car of the check engine light because it has not come back on all day. I have the idle set down to around 650/700 RPM. Listening to the exhaust it sounds like there is a miss in the engine that comes and goes. The spark plug wires are cracked and deteriorated and won't stay down on the spark plugs so a complete tune up is in order. I cleaned a few connectors that had green corrosion on the terminals, the one for the temp switch was very bad and after cleaning it good the radiator cooling fans started working. TPS was the same way.

My next repair will be replacing the worn out and sagging driver's door hinges. I got the replacements yesterday while at the JY but I am going to have to remove the front fender to do this job. The replacement hinges are from a rear door so I hope they are the same.

 

Got a few things done today though I was unable to do the door hinges as I wanted so maybe sometime during the week.

What I did accomplish was sourcing out the electrical short I had on the interior lamp circuit and eliminating that problem. That turned out to be the micro switch mounted to the ignition switch itself so I replaced it with one I had on another switch. As it turned out, looking through the service manual the warning chime, sonar suspension amplifier control unit and the automatic shift interlock are on the same circuit as the dome lamp so all is well now on that part.

The trunk refused to open with the door switch today, the pop solenoid worked but it would not release. I got it open after a while and decided this problem needed to be fixed. The trunk lid was out of whack from whatever happened before I got the car and the hinge was a little bent on the driver side. I got all of that straightened out and the latch adjusted properly so that issue is now taken care of.

I want to swap out the steering wheel with one from an SE but that's not going to be possible unless I can find a away to transfer the sensor assembly from the current wheel to another. I cannot do without it because that sensor will interfere with the sonar suspension and electronic assisted steering features.

 

Went back out to the JY yesterday to pull the nice black carpet out of the 90 SE but it was gone! so I snagged the perfect center console out of the 93 SE along with one decent fog lamp and both brackets I needed. I am going back this weekend to get a bunch of interior trim and nice black seat belts from that one too.

Wanted to replace the driver side sagging door hinges so I removed the front fender only to find that the replacement hinges from the rear door will not work on the front.

I need to replace the driver side fender due to the lower portion being rusted out and partially gone but there is a perfect pearl white fender on the 89 GXE at the yard so while I am there I will check the front door hinges to see if they are any better than mine are.

I found some light surface rust where the lower fender bolts to the body. This was most likely caused from all of the dirt and debris buildup behind the fender trim. I will sand this off and prime it then put some POR15 over the area.

Here are more pictures: http://s64.photobucket.com/user/82je...ml?sort=3&o=18

 

Sounds like you're really going to town. Props!

 

Thanks, yes I am but with a long way to go. The hardest part of this project will be the manual swap in a few months, everything else is cake work for me.

 

Got the front door hinge replaced, found a good one on the 93 SE at the yard. Had to reuse my original fender though because the pearl white replacement was damaged by a fork lift, I guess that happened when they put the car out in the yard. I will find another at a later time.

Also found some good inner wheel well splash guards that help protect the transmission and engine drive pulley's and a lower engine rock shield that I needed. Cleaned them up a little and they are on now.

Installed the replacement driver's door handle and keyless entry pad. I swapped over the lock cylinder to the replacement handle since it was easy to do.

Finished off the night cleaning up the oil and grease prints that I left everywhere when I put the fender back on.

More pics of what I've done here......

http://s64.photobucket.com/user/82je...tml?sort=3&o=0

 

how did you remove the glass from reflector??

 

Used a razor knife to cut around the edges and then used a plastic flat blade clip removal tool to gently pry the glass off.

 

Installed the passenger side door handle/lock cylinder and replacement keyless entry pad, they are not the best but are better than what was on there before and these work without shorting the system out as before.

I also replaced the lock actuator with a good used one from the JY. Now all of the locks function properly with the keyless entry system or with a key from either front door.

I have only driven the max about 8 miles since it got here and I was about to take it around the block when I noticed the brake lights not working, they worked fine before because I replaced all of the tail lamp bulbs last week.

Now the 15amp brake lamp circuit fuse blows as soon as you step on the pedal. I have already ruled out the brake lamp switch and both rear bulb holders. I will have to look at the service manual to see what else is on that circuit besides the cruise control witch worked fine before and go from there.

Pics here............... http://s64.photobucket.com/user/82je...tml?sort=3&o=0

 

I'm pretty sure your taillight fuse problem IS in the bulb holders. Thats why I only had one brake light bulb in each taillight. Wouldn't blow the fuse that way, plus you don't really need 2 bulbs in each..

 

I have unplugged both bulb holders in the rear and the short still exist. I unplugged the stop lamp switch and used one of my spares hanging down under the dash and it still blew the fuse.

There is a shorted component in the system*somewhere, I just have to track it down and eliminate the problem because I would rather have all of the brake lights working as they were designed too

 

The stop lamp circuit seems to have fixed itself for the time being, for some reason the fuse no longer pops when the brake pedal is depressed. I will look into this again when the problem reappears and I'm sure it will.

I replaced the power antenna and the drain tube that teed into the sunroof drain. I had to replace the fitting and cleaned out the sunroof drains while I was at it.

I went ahead and installed the black replacement center console with a nice center arm rest. I will have too remove it again when I swap out the worn and faded burgundy seat belts.

I also replaced the rear brake shoes and hardware and installed the rear drums I pulled off the 89 at the yard, since they were in a lot nicer shape.

I adjusted the emergency brake cable and it only takes pulling the handle up 3 to 4 clicks maximum now as where before I could pull the handle all the way up and still move the car.

I received the new "used" master window switch today so I installed that as well, works perfectly. It looks almost brand spanking new and for $35 bucks I couldn't pass it up.

After all of the work I've done in the past couple of weeks I have been able to get a few things repaired and everything working except for the AC, heater, trunk light and sonar suspension. These items will have to wait until warmer weather gets here.

Next, I want to finish off my stereo installation and maybe install the Stillen side skirts and rear lip. I will have to install the front spoiler later on because I don't want to damage it while working on the front end.

Now, I think it's time to start ordering all of the mechanical, steering and suspension replacement parts I need to get the rest of the work done.

Downloaded pics here............

http://s64.photobucket.com/user/82je...ml?sort=3&o=14

 

Had some time to spend on the digimax today so I started off this morning by removing the glove box to retrieve the 7 digit code from the control unit. I was able to reprogram the system in just a few minutes. Both front windows roll down together and the sunroof opens. I only let the windows go down and the sunroof open half way before I let off because the sunroof tracking is in need of servicing/cleaning.

While the glove box was out I decided to remove the fan speed regulator from the air box to see why it wasn't working and if it could be fixed. What I found next was unexpected, the entire heater box was crammed more than half full of leaves, pine needles, dirt and other debris.

I ended up removing the lower part of the dash so I could take out the blower motor, what a mess. Took me more than to hours to clean out the inside of the heater box with a vacuum and a air nozzle, It's not the best but it will do.

Took apart the fan speed regulator and it looked good but I went ahead and re soldered all of the joints I could and when I put it back in it worked so now my blower works on all speed settings now.

When I removed the blower motor I noticed some rust on the housing and mounting screws and when I looked up into the fresh air inlet I found some major rust on the upper cowl and firewall and I mean a lot of it. There is nothing I can do for this right now because I didn't want to remove the dash to have access to the rusty portion of the firewall.

So, what I did instead was remove the wiper arms and the plastic cowl panel to expose the area around the fresh air intake. Here is where I found a bunch of built up dirt, twigs, leaves and other debris that had built up over the years clogging the drains on both sides. It took me another 4 hours just to clean the cowl area and put everything back together.


Pics here................
http://s64.photobucket.com/user/82je...tml?sort=3&o=0

 

Got part of the Stillen kit installed today. The rear bumper was a royal pain but it's on there. I only had enough time to finish off the rear bumper and the passenger side skirt this evening and everything looks good so far. It's not perfect but nothings going to fall off either.

I put the old wheels and tires back on so my new tires wouldn't get ruined from the front suspension and steering components being worn out.

I have a few pics of the Stillen kit install here.........

http://s64.photobucket.com/user/82je...tml?sort=3&o=0

 

Completed installing the rest of the Stillen kit over the weekend. I also installed the other fog lamp but I don't have them wired in yet.

Drove the Digimax on a 8 hour round trip journey Saturday and all went fairly well. I don't know for sure whats wrong with the sonar suspension yet but I'm thinking it has something to do with one of the sensors or control unit but the ride wasn't too bad.

Pics here.......

http://s64.photobucket.com/user/82je...tml?sort=3&o=0

 

For the past few days I've been trying to figure out why I could not get any cabin heat. Last night I searched and found a few old threads dealing with a "no heat issue" and figured out what I needed to do.

The issue I had was getting a little warm air and it was only for a few seconds and then it went cold, and sometimes I wouldn't even get that and driving down the road made no difference at all.

So when I got home from work this afternoon I pulled the Digimax around the side and parked it right in front of the water faucet. I opened the hood and proceeded to remove both heater core hoses.

When I got the top hose off there was no coolant in the hose but what came out instead was a mud like substance, kind of like real thick syrup and had a rusty brown color to it. The top heater core inlet tube now had this same type of gunk slowly dripping out of it.

When I removed the lower heater core hose it was nearly the same as the top, brown crud dripping out of the tube. I cut up a garden hose and put the cut end onto the lower heater core tube with the other end on the faucet. I cut another 5 feet of hose and put that on the top heater core tube and let the other end hang over the front of the car.

I should have taken video of what happened next because I could not believe the huge amount of crap that came gushing out of the heater core for the first couple of minutes while the water was running. I started out slowly and as the water started pumping out of the hose cleaner I would open up the faucet more until the water was flowing steady.

I let the water run for about 10 minutes. I shut the water off and changed the water hoses around to back flush, again there was more gunk flowing out. I changed the water hoses around 5 times and that seemed to have flushed out the heater core enough.

I plugged one of the heater core hoses on the side of the intake and hooked the garden hose up to the other side and removed the radiator cap. I turned on the water and back flushed the lines, the crap that came out of the radiator was unbelievable.

I knew the cooling system needed to be flushed out but this is going to have to do for now because I plan on removing the motor and transmission around the end of next month. The water shut off valve was not working either so I did bypass that for now.

Filling the cooling system. I put the upper heater core hose back on and tightened the clamp and left the lower heater core hose off. I put the garden hose nozzle into the radiator and turned the water on all the way and started the engine. When I had a good flow of water going out of the lower heater core tube I quickly put the lower hose back on while releasing pressure on the garden hose.

By the time I shut the water off, put the radiator cap back on and tightened the lower heater core hose I could feel the warm water circulating through both heater core hoses, it wouldn't do this before I flushed the core.

END RESULT, enough hot air to roast a turkey.

After all of the above, I parked the car nose up on a steep hill in my front yard and removed the radiator cap to burp the cooling system. I let the engine idle for about 45 minutes, the cooling fans cycled on/off 3 or 4 times and I kept the radiator topped off during that time.

Now I have heat in park while engine is at idle and @ 70+mph down the road, I just hope flushing the heater core didn't uncover a hidden pin hole somewhere but only time will tell the tale but for now I'm good to go.