1992 Maxima SE dies randomly
My 92 SE with manual transmission has this problem too. I've been change different parts as this forum has discussed. Today, I replaced fuel pump and went to a test drive. Unfortunately, the problem still exists.
I was driving on a highway at 60 mile/hour. The engine suddenly stalled. One thing I noticed is the tachometer dropped to 500 rpm even with my 5th gear still engaged.
Could this be caused by a bad sensor that measures engine speed? What sensor could it be? Could it be a bad ECM?
Any advise is welcomed!
I was driving on a highway at 60 mile/hour. The engine suddenly stalled. One thing I noticed is the tachometer dropped to 500 rpm even with my 5th gear still engaged.
Could this be caused by a bad sensor that measures engine speed? What sensor could it be? Could it be a bad ECM?
Any advise is welcomed!
My 92 SE with manual transmission has this problem too. I've been change different parts as this forum has discussed. Today, I replaced fuel pump and went to a test drive. Unfortunately, the problem still exists.
I was driving on a highway at 60 mile/hour. The engine suddenly stalled. One thing I noticed is the tachometer dropped to 500 rpm even with my 5th gear still engaged.
Could this be caused by a bad sensor that measures engine speed? What sensor could it be? Could it be a bad ECM?
Any advise is welcomed!
I was driving on a highway at 60 mile/hour. The engine suddenly stalled. One thing I noticed is the tachometer dropped to 500 rpm even with my 5th gear still engaged.
Could this be caused by a bad sensor that measures engine speed? What sensor could it be? Could it be a bad ECM?
Any advise is welcomed!
sorry to butt in but I've had the same problem. Question for those suffering this problem. when it is about to die or dies does it feel like it hit a brick wall and losing power or is it just flat out dying? I would actually be pretty positive to say knock sensor? Or the VTC or other wiring becoming bare and contacting each other causing the power signal to be sent back to the ECU. Causing it to shut down. I've had both bad knock sensor causing this as well as the vtc solenoid wires hot and ground touching each other and killing the car. Just something I thought I would add to see if it helps.
sorry to butt in but I've had the same problem. Question for those suffering this problem. when it is about to die or dies does it feel like it hit a brick wall and losing power or is it just flat out dying? I would actually be pretty positive to say knock sensor? Or the VTC or other wiring becoming bare and contacting each other causing the power signal to be sent back to the ECU. Causing it to shut down. I've had both bad knock sensor causing this as well as the vtc solenoid wires hot and ground touching each other and killing the car. Just something I thought I would add to see if it helps.
On the other hand, if I'm accelerating from a stoplight type of thing it does sometimes feel like I hit a brick wall and actually lunge me forward in my seat. I've bypassed the knock sensor with a resistor with zero improvement on it.
I haven't heard of the VTC solenoid causing it, that's interesting. I'll have to check out the condition of the wiring on them but I would be shocked if it's frayed or anything.
The aggravating part here is that this car drove perfectly and had zero typical VE quirks. I put it down for about a year overhauling the suspension and pulled the engine to replace the steering rack and the PS system, and while the engine was out I replaced all the gaskets/seals. Put in new injectors and virtually everything else brand new. New knock sensor, new knock sensor harness, everything. Then when I get the car back on the road it's buck/hesitation/stall city.
my 92 se ve 5 speed to this day is a problem but i have learned how to compensate while driving it. I believe timing could be the major problem we are all having here. since just like you james i also changed the knock sensor and checked and cleaned the harness. James you did set left head timing first then do as it says and rotate to set right head. My first time i rebuilt another ve in another of my maxima's i actually set timing 180 degrees out. Luckily for me no damage was done only had to order another head gasket set.
James you do have a consult cable and a laptop with some sort of software to see how the car is doing in real time data stream right? you could always record data while driving it to see if what it is your not seeing.
James you do have a consult cable and a laptop with some sort of software to see how the car is doing in real time data stream right? you could always record data while driving it to see if what it is your not seeing.
James you did set left head timing first then do as it says and rotate to set right head. My first time i rebuilt another ve in another of my maxima's i actually set timing 180 degrees out. Luckily for me no damage was done only had to order another head gasket set.
James you do have a consult cable and a laptop with some sort of software to see how the car is doing in real time data stream right? you could always record data while driving it to see if what it is your not seeing.
James you do have a consult cable and a laptop with some sort of software to see how the car is doing in real time data stream right? you could always record data while driving it to see if what it is your not seeing.
I have Nistune yes in my boosted VE. I suppose I could pull the ECU from my boosted VE and load back a factory map and run it in my black N/A VE and try to datalog something. My hesitation is I really don't think the Nistune datalog would show much of anything helpful for the stalling. I can't remember offhand what all fields I can datalog with Nistune.
And when the car stalls it might actually temporarily disconnect consult and basically just immediately end my datalog (meaning it wouldn't really show me what happened). I'm not certain of that offhand though.
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Maxboy23
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
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Aug 11, 2015 11:59 AM




