93VE30DE-TT

So I know the just of some parts I can and will use. But now questions more geared towards Valves and valve springs. Soon my project exterior work will be done. And I will start to gear my build towards upgrading and building 1 of my 4 ve30de's 3 of the engines are in my 3 se's and a spare which is what I will be building. Any information on what valves will work aftermarket brands or other nissans that run the same valve part number that I could cross reference to find performance valves and springs.

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

There is really no need for better springs, since you won't be upgrading cams or reving higher. New stock is all you need.
Focus on tuning, and maybe lower compression.

93VE30DE-TT

Just wondering not yet there but rather research as I plan on doing an extensive build not just basic. Planning on putting a good amount into building the block up for the ability of reliable whp. Aiming for the ability to be putting down 550 whp when I want and it be reliable.

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

550whp AND reliable will require a new car. The motor could do it but not the trans/axles. Sounds like you need a lot more research.

93VE30DE-TT

lol oh i know the transmission may not be able to handle it stock. i already been researching internal gearing. im not new to maxima's ive been tinkering with them since i was 20 years old and im now 33. already found some things for transmission. on this very forum. as for axles i know i will probably need to have them custom made for reliable 550whp. im not talking spending like 3 or 4 grand just into building the motor and boosting it. lmfao oh no. im looking more to put 10 grand just into the block before even buying turbos. im not playing any small games and i know this build isnt gonna be an over night item. hell my exterior mods im having done have tooken a total almost of 2 years from gathering parts and money to getting it all done. and that is already quite high in the invested value alone. but thats not what this post is about this is just questions. i know that 300zx pistons and rods can be used. im just trying to cover other areas i want to see if i can improve on. also know a stock ecu wont work and it will require a standalone one.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

How do you figure you could possibly spend $10k on the block alone?

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

And I wish you luck. I can't count how many guys have come on here over the past 15 years with the same type of thread as yours, only for us to never hear from them again and of course they never end up building/doing anything.

Are you planning to adhere to your username and go twin turbo?

93VE30DE-TT

Just to rebuild a ve30de costs around 2,500 and that is being cheap on some parts that can get away with. Pistons rings and rods depending on brand can cost a pretty penny for 300zx parts since they are the same bore and stroke. depending on if I can cross reference part numbers on valves and springs to find whatever uses the samestock ones that are offered performance versions of them that also adds. Having cometica make a head gasket instead of just using a stock head gasket so I don't suffer what most with boosted ve's suffer. having a custom intake and fuel rail. Port matching intake and exhaust ports. Cryo dipping various engine parts. Believe me I can easily spend 10k into the block. I know many have come and talked big dreams. I've also watched many of org members flame and scare people away. Instead of trying to embrace there ideas or help them with information. Org members are afraid of change. That people's new ideas might out do there own. James I've watched this site for a long time but only just joined not long ago.

If only you would open your mind and instead of criticizing for ones idea instead help. I watched as you helped tony with information on that broke ghetto build of a ebay budget build.

All im gonna say is why don't you all just help with any information you may know or have and sit back and be patient. Not everyone is rich so builds aren't over night successes.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

You say "most with boosted VE's suffer" from head gasket issues. I've actually never seen head gasket issues on boosted VE's or even boosted VG's for that matter.

For the record I'm not trying to scare you away or criticize you. In fact I'm an avid VE recruiter, and especially a boosted VE recruiter. You can see that with all my various help I've given Tony in a lot of his recent threads whereas some other members want to try to make him work for it a little more and are a little harsh on him. I've been given a lot of help/tips myself over the years from the guy above and other members who aren't really active here anymore (particularly Brad92se).

It's the sheer scale of your plans that almost comes off as perhaps you wanting to over-impress for the purpose of showing how intent you are on it. But claiming you'll spend $10k on your block alone (which, again isn't really likely even if you tried) isn't the way to prove you're serious about this.

It sounds like you already know the way to beef up the block - z32 pistons. For the record the VE rods are IDENTICAL to the z32 rods, same part number and everything.

A custom intake seems totally unnecessary to me, along with the headwork you seem intent on doing unless you're wanting to rev to 8K type of thing.

I truly do wish you luck. I didn't mean that sarcastically. I'm in the midst of rebuilding my VE turbo myself. In fact, I dropped off my block and some goodies to the machine shop yesterday.

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

I tried helping you but you just want to keep talking out your butt. Tony LISTENED to what I had to say, you come here asking questions and then act like you know it all. Either you attitude will change or you wont get help from those of us with experience.
Aftermarket valve springs aren't needed because you aren't going to do cams or rev higher. I will explain why if you are willing to listen. A standalone also isn't necessary. As far as the engine is concerned 550WHP can be accomplished with a simple piston upgrade, $10k into the block isn't needed and it would be foolish to do.
You should focus on what NEEDS to be done and not just common mods that apply to other engines/cars. $10K into the trans would be a start. Thats where you need to spend the big money to make it reliable. They do sell custom gears for Maximas that you could make work. www.driveshaftshop.com can make you custom axles.
Afraid of change? Ive made more mods and custom crap for the maxima than I could list, so don't ASSume my opinions or fears. I was the first to do a VE5 trans to VG engine, and the first to figure out how to do a VE auto to VG engine (both things that were claimed to be "impossible")

TonyJr

This guy sound like me when i first joined lmao. Dude james92se isnt trying to say anything negative hes just telling you the history of ve turbo. I wish you luck but definitely do more research. James92SE is a good guy and has helped me a whole lot with my turbo ve setup. Trust me $10,000 to build a engine is nearly impossible unless you getting rip off on the labor. But good luck , we just here to help make your project easier.

P.s. damn $2,000 on interior.
Any pics of interior?

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

I agree with James in the fact he should have the build done before boasting a user name like that aswell as agree with maxpower in the fact that if he wants kind and knowledgable advice he should do more of openening his ears and a little less coming off like he already knows what he needs to do while asking for help. Realistically i love my 3rd gen as much as the next member but putting upwards of the dollar figures your talking it would be a little unrealistic to not look into buying something like a skyline, Supra, mitsubishi evo or many others. Im sure the members that have done their builds have done so on a realistic budget knowing it's a 3rd gen and not a ferrari and just have a love for the car knowing there is no real return on the investment yet knowing where to draw the line based on that.

93VE30DE-TT

im not after getting money in return later. This is a build i have been thinking of doing. Why? because why not to me i like the body style and I will make something of one just to be different from normally tuned cars. I want to build something boosted plus make the most power from a VE til someone like Brad beats me with his VE30DE-T 300zx. I know alot of about whats going on in this enthusiast choice of car. Anyways whatever you all got on to me because I did't clarify, but I will just build and show once done. All i wanted was an answer not getting questioned why. It is a simple answer. Do any cars share the part numbers of factory maxima valves with other types of cars ie. 300zx, skyline, gtir pulsar, bluebird, cefiro...?

Anyways apologies if I went off wrong. Clearly i speak of block as the whole as a part versus external parts. (exhaust, intake, fuel,...)

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

The VE and Z32 have different OEM part numbers on everything inside the heads as best I can tell. Although having said that, the Z valve springs do appear to swap right into the VE

93VE30DE-TT

ok looks like i need to just go to courtesy nissans web page and look at part numbers for cars offered in the united states that do have performance options. Ty James atleast i now know i could probably use aftermarket valve springs. now to find aftermarket valves and then continue on. any info i may come across I will try to share in posts for anyone else looking for more then has already been found by previous ve owners. Also for those calling me a Noob nope (Tony) I been watching maxima.org since like 2002 so I am not the noob I just never decided to join back then. Atleast when I get done with what im currently doing to my project maxima. I will buy good quality parts and not just boost a worn out motor. Don't get me wrong they will hold boost and probably run ok. But I want more from my engine. I have 4 VE30DE motors. 3 in running maxima's and a spare in the back. But thats not what this Thread is about so back to topic.

Gonna now go and look for part numbers and what all has parts that cross reference to the VE's part numbers.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

wow man...throwing down 10K on a car that's probably worth 1/5th of that is really just...impressive?

wow...550hp...
ok you have the engine done
transmission is strong enough to handle it
how are you going to get all that power to the ground?

you know the wrong wheels are spinning on the maxima.

not a naysayer...the others already answered your question. so just throwing it out there.

side note...Tony how's the project coming along?

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

I have checked before and the TTZ valve springs and the VE valve springs don't have the same part number. Like I said, as far as I can tell the VE and TTZ share no part numbers for anything in the heads. But of course that doesn't mean the TTZ valve springs won't fit the VE.

And for what it's worth, VG30DE cams are said to drop right into the VE. And old member way back in the day, Bryan H, installed VG30DE cams into his VE. The VG30DE cams are slightly different on lift/duration from the VE. He only picked up a few hp and from what I remember the general consensus was that it wasn't worth the trouble. As best I can tell, VG30DE and VG30DETT cams have the same part numbers, so theoretically if the old Maxima.org lore is true, then VG30DETT cams should also fit the VE.

GRNMAXDMON

iTrader: (1)

reading all this made me veer away from boosting my car, not that i was ever afraid of doing this but rather it being impractical for me. i still have the manifolds and flex pipe along with the turbo but never really decided to go further with this. i've had this car since Dec. of 1999 when i was only 16. Now at 31 i have decided not to bother with the engine. i'll keep modding other things on the car but thats it. as James and others have said, good luck and hope you can actually finish your VE turbo set up.

93VE30DE-TT

Thanks James if I happen to come across a vg30de or dett in a yard I'll grab the cams and tinker with them maybe even take the heads and compare the springs and valves.

danNY like they say to each there own. It is of course my money and not yours last I checked so there for if it pleases me to spend it in a car worth a 1/5th of what im spending. Why not right? No worries I wont remember you when it all is finished. Most you so called enthusiast these days aren't even that.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

I don't recall Bryan H ever actually posting here specifically about it, it was always just other members saying he'd done it. IIR Matt said they "dropped right in" but then I remember somebody mentioning he had to do some machining. They certainly LOOK like they would need to be machined some, as the ends look different. Bryan probably did post specifics on the old 4dsc message board way back in the day, but those old messages aren't archived online/searchable unfortunately.

I do specifically remember he ran 14.3 @ 97 in his VE. That's the one specific thing about him that has always been clear in my memory

TonyJr

Danny
I'm back at it this weekend, hopefully be done in 2 weeks. Had a set back cuz my son soccer tournaments. But super excited that I'm almost done.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

good luck tony.

family usually comes first.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

true...you're 100% correct...to each their own.

let me know when it's all done and you can shove it in my face and tell me that i was a fool for not believing you. post up pictures too.

i guess we're just not enthusiasts like you.

good luck on your journey to 550hp in a VE.

Darkwing48

iTrader: (1)

I rather see the this happening. No disrespect to you DanNY but in order to see innovations to our cars, they have to disprove those who have more experience in these cars.

Just do it or prove DanNY right.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

No disrespect taken. I see a lot of guys come on and tell everyone that they are building some beast of a motor and I would say about 95% of them never show up again or just plain give up.

If the op wants to do it...I want to see it. My comments hopefully will push him and prove me wrong and he's not full of hot air.

I mean Tony is actually doing it...that's something to be said for when he's backing it up and I'm happy that he's getting it done. James is also happy to have another boosted buddy...lol.

Maximan190

iTrader: (8)

Personally I think the temperamental nature of these cars and the VE motor, and age at this point, make it not the most optimal car for a boost build. Though I'd be lying if I said I didnt want to have a blast in joining turbo land with my VE. Maintaining it as daily driver status takes the priority right now

I commend you guys for getting these turbo setups done and the fact that enthusiasts of these cars are still around

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Understatement

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

If your VE isn't temperamental now there's no reason it should be when boosted, assuming you don't have some totally screwed up tune.

I suffer from both ends of the VE spectrum though. My boosted VE isn't/wasn't temperamental at all, aside from excessive blow-by. Blow-by should be fixed now since I'm rebuilding it.

My n/a VE on the other hand is totally annoyingly unreliable/bucking/stalling even with everything on it virtually brand new. I want to throw it off a cliff. It's been relegated to short drive emergency backup car duty. I say short drives because generally if I drive it more than 15 or 20 minutes it'll start stalling on me like crazy. So needless to say, it would be foolish to boost this VE.

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

Swap in a VG, boost it and you will have the best of both worlds!

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

it's been over a year now...no problems except the stink of raw exhaust when the wastegate hits...yeah yeah i know i know EPA. took me a long time to figure out the issues (tune and drivability) and after the injector swap it's like driving a new car.

the other PITA is i got air in the clutch line but it's a total PITA to bleed it when there's no helper and there's a huge downpipe in the way...LOL

but once that turbo starts to whines at around 2500 it's pretty cool. the BOV swoosh is also kinda riceboyish but secretly i like to hear it.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Dan, what's the story on the injector swap you mention? Did you have one fail?

TonyJr

Its so true, if your car isnt right from the beginning don't start to mod it until is healthy. It took me about 2 years to get mines running perfect. I mean i bought my car for $600 as a beater. Until i started replacing parts n realized a ve is a beast from hell. I fell in love with it. Got hook,

After the 2 years replacing all suspension parts, springs, injectors, etc... its time for turbo. I missed my rx7 turbo 2. 2 weeks away i should be done.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

remember...i was running the old style Z32TT 370CC injectors. i had them cleaned and flowed. not sure what happened but shortly after i installed them (maybe a few months) the car was impossible to tune. i was messing with nistune like crazy...day, night, cold, hot. went through like over 30 spark plugs since it would foul in like 5 miles.

the ECU was JWT ECU and they programmed the 370CC into it. this is before nistune came to the scene. the car never ran right with JWT and they took forever to burn the eprom. so i had to put more money into the ECU and sent it out to Nistune. nistune was nice to install the board since i was the first VG maxima to get it done. once all that was done and got it back i then started to resized the injectors...but little did i know nistune set my 370cc at the factory...180cc (i think). so now my tune is kinda weird that the stock injectors are showing 180cc in the program but it's really 370CC.

anyway..fast fwd to now...i swapped out the busted 370cc and went in with new 555cc and it runs really well. super reliable...on really cold mornings i have to ride the gas for like 30 seconds and it will idle on it's own. no issues with the 555cc. i took a chance on them since i didn't know how reliable or unreliable they were...also i switched over to the new style connectors at the same time. thanks cmax for your help on the guide.

this is after building out 3 different manifold/down pipe designs....and eventually landed on a design that i liked and went with the TIG weld 304SS set up.

AC works, no over heating, no smoke, no PCV issues. i just need to have the time to bleed the clutch and then change out the rear exhaust mainfold studs to ARP and i'm good to go. might need to get new engine mounts now since the flexane is starting to get loose in them. going to try window weld next and see if that's better.

yup i'm not an enthusiasts...some of these guys don't have a clue.

TonyJr

That was fun to read. At least you tuned now. That's my only nightmare is how to mess with nistune when i get it. Ill also will be using 370cc from a q45.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Are they OEM 555's (actually technically 615's if they're newer 555's)? Or are they DW or some other re-drilled unit?

I'm surprised you have a little cold start trouble, mine always started right up with the 575's even in the middle of winter. Granted, that was probably only in the low 20's here and you very likely were in colder temps. Can you fool with the cold crank enrichment on the VG Nistune setup? I know I can on the VE.

When I pulled my current JECS 575 injectors out of my rail, most of the pintle caps fell off. Pintle cap isn't technically the proper term, but you know what I mean, that little plastic tip/cap on the end. I looked at the underside of one of the injectors and was horrified to see this mess:



Never again will I fool with re-drills. And the sucky thing is that ALL of the injectors out there other than 370's, 555/615's, or 740's you buy straight from Nissan (or NISMO, Tomei, or HKS of course) or pull from an OEM car youself are redrills. Even the "new" JECS you see out there are redrills. They're kind of playing word-games with you on the listings you see because yes the injectors are new genuine JECS - but they're just stock replacement Maxima units re-drilled out to larger, and very possibly look like my picture above.

Since I'm not fooling around anymore, I went with NISMO 740's now. The 740's are actually cheaper than the 555/615's. Look at the 4 hole spray nozzle vs the mess above on my previous re-drill:





Also making progress on my engine. Got my Wiseco 20 over Z32 pistons and Eagle rods installed. Polished/balanced crank. Eagle rods are slightly over-kill but I got a great deal on the pistons and rods together and the guy wouldn't sell separate so I just did the rods too. The Eagle rods have ARP fasteners, and also will be doing ARP head studs. The Wiseco's will put me at 8.5:1 compression and have a bulletproof bottom end - at least as much as I can throw at it in a FWD setup.







Speaking of the bottom-end, getting back to the original thread topic - 93VE30DE-TT, you may already know this but our crankshafts have a BOLTED ON countershaft weight, just like the Z32. The Z32 guys have problems with these bolts stretching/failing and blowing their engines when they start getting up into very high power numbers.

Anyway, what the Z32 guys do is TIG weld the bolt head to the counterweight effectively locking it in place. Of course then you'd need to meticulously balance your crank after that. This is definitely something somebody would want to look into if they built a 550+ hp VE.

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

DanNY since you converted from auto to manual you probably didnt swap over the block with the metal loops (some people say its a cooler, others a damper). Regardless, I found that getting rid of all stock metal and rubber lines and replacing it all with just one long SS cable makes bleeding much easier. If you are interested in this PM me and I can make a cable for you or supply you with the correct part numbers/sizes needed to make this happen

akurtzer57

iTrader: (4)

I don't comment much these days but I'm around. If you want to see the extent of a mid 500hp build. Check out my threads. They haven't been updated in awhile. I run stock axles and Trans been very lucky so far.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

ohhh..yup i swapped over to a braided line...from the master to the slave is one braided line.

the only issue is doing the bleeding by one person. i have a brake bleeder where it pulls a vac from the bleeder screw but i don't think that's effective enough.

the final hurdle is the DP that's right in the way of things.

i'll figure it out...just have to bleed it when it's a cool day and don't mind having a splash of brake fluid all over the place.

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

You could use a speed bleeder (http://www.speedbleeder.com) to bleed it yourself. They have a one way valve that only allows fluid to flow out and stops bubbles from coming in. You can bleed your clutch line in 5 minutes all by yourself.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

james...they were the "new" JECS. It was a last ditch effort for me.
they did provide the flow rate on each injector....not sure if that made a difference. i guess at the end of the day it's a crap shoot buying non OEM injectors.