Starts up idles smooth, rev up to 3000, throwing codes 11,12,13 and 21. Prior to this ran great. Then once car is warmed up idle became erratic, rising and falling smoothly, I install a new TPS. The erratic idle went away. Now when it is started it runs fine then slowly goes into a stall as I then stop the stall I rev up to 3000 she then cuts off hard to start for about 5 minutes. Then I can restart. ??? Cam Position Sensor Maybe?

 

If you don't have an erratic idle anymore thats good. As far as the stall it definately sounds either fuel or ignition related. I'd start by checking all connections. Try unplugging the maf and plug it back in. I think if was the cam sensor it would have a tough time cranking over even when you first start it from a cold start. Check the ignition coil under the distributor if it's a vg (gxe) also the ignitor transistor which can cause that. Also check or change the ignition relay which i believe is the bottom blue one beside the fuse panel. If none of those help check fuel pressure or check and listen if the fuel pump is priming when the keys in the on/acc position. Next time it stalls before turning the key back off try cranking it over again and if it doesnt start turn the key back off and if it starts from the off position cranking it over it could be the transistor/ignitor module. I recently had stalling issues but niced my fuel pump fuse terminals were spread a little causing the fuse prongs to not make very good contact. I squeezed the terminals closer together and so far so good.

 

Moved to the proper forum.

 

At 3000 rpm she shuts right down. I checked and changed one bad vacuume line. Would a bad maf cause an instant shut down. I have had the car for 19 years and have never had an issue in fact most engine parts are original factory . I am sure it is just something I have overlooked. I will check the coil and ign relay. I am puzzled on this. I am reading codes 11 12 13 then 21.

 

Try checking over the things i previously posted. Yes a bad maf connection can cause a stall. Just try unplugging it and plugging it back in. code 11-crank angle sensor. If you have a vg it is in the distributor. Code 12-air flow meter code 13-cylinder head temp sensor which is very inexpensive and easy to change. Again if you have the vg its behind the left side of the upper intake if your standing in front of the car. Code 21 Ignition signal. You basically need to check over everything ignition related. Starting with your connections.

 

Thanks for all the help . I will let you know. Thanks again.

 

Sounds good. Keep us posted and let us know how you make out. I believe the coolant temp/head temp sensor is about $15 so it won't break the bank and is accessible and easy to change so it doesn't hurt if you decide to swap it. As for another maf i have a spare as im sure theres a number of them in the classifieds or at your local yard if need be but start by just unplugging it and plugging it back in. The distributor im sure you could get in the classifieds or yard too. I also have a spare. coil and ignitor/transistor same thing. If all of the codes popped up together at once im sure there's possibly just a bad connection somewhere or one of the above parts or a circuit bringing up other codes associated with one another. Main thing for starters and is free is to just check all those connections. I am assuming you have the gxe with the vg engine? When you mentioned it dies at 3000 rpm somethings telling me its a maf thing but i could be wrong.

 

Sounds like a faulty vacuum line, missing IVAC silicon gasket, or some sort of intake leak!

 

He's getting codes 11,12,13 and 21. Crank sensor, maf sensor, Head temp. and ignition signal codes

 

More pieces to the puzzle. Now it is running over 3000 revving and sounding good. I installed a new throttle position sensor at the advise of myself. Idle smoothed out just a little high until revved . Slamming into drive and reverse. No codes at all on the cel I have ground to the maf but have not checked the sensor itself. I cleaned it about two years ago. The dizzy is about 7 years old purchased from advance auto. So I have two choices maybe. Any more takers here.

 

No vac leaks, I did have one crushing vac line, changed that, no difference. I am probably going to pull the trigger on a new MAF and see how it goes.

 

new MAF installed, no change. Shoot I reinstalled the old maf, back to running kind of smooth, exhaust is puffing , that went away after 10 minutes of running, I am going to change out the dizzy now, that may be failing, good thing i do this crap myself.

 

In fact the dizzy was bad, new one took care of the problem. A sensor that is built in was bad. Thanks and sorry for the really delayed response.

 

Probably the crank sensor. I mentioned in a previous post that its in the distributor. Glad you got the issue fixed. Hope all is running well.

 

Crank sensor was it, you are correct. Thanks