So my max. sometimes would not start, crank but no start. when it starts i can hear the fuel pump priming for that ~5 sec. initial start-up than the fuel pump relay clicks. .But when its just cranks, and no start. I don't hear the fuel pump priming for ~5 sec, but i can still hear the relay making the clicking sound. when that happens i leave it wherever it is over night and next day it works again. (very unreliable)

with 235k on the car, i think its time to change out some worn out parts. is it safe to say that, the crank no start problem is the fuel pump or the hanger assembly? i checked the hanger assembly and i do have one corroded wire terminals? replace or repair it? if its easier to just repair it any advice on how i can bypass the soldered terminal?

where can i order an ve hanger assembly? any aftermarket one available?

i ordered a walbro 190lph pump already.
the fuel filter is next, and maybe the fpr.

any advice?

 

fix the wiring and get a fsm and start the fuel pump diagnosed on chapter EF & EC. get yourself a continuity tester and multi meter to test your relays, wires etc.
dont buy parts until you figure out whats wrong first. unless you have a spare fuel pump relay you can swap it out. it located in the driverside tail lights in trunk.

remember it can be many thing causing this problem other then fp. check spark when car doesnt want to start. check fuel pressure when car is running.

 

thanks tony, i'll have to check those this weekend. hopefully its just my corroded wire.

 

You don't need a "VE" hanger assembly. They're all the same on 3rd gens. Just grab one out of a VG at the junkyard if you can.

I will say these hanger assemblies are poorly designed (with the way the wiring passes through the assembly with the weird soldered connections) on the 3rd gen. I have had multiple hanger assemblies go bad on me just in the past four or five years and these are all on non-rusty Texas cars.

I also wouldn't waste any time seeking out buying a "fuel pump" relay. Just grab another green relay from elsewhere on the car to test/swap temporarily.

 

hey james, did you ever "bypass" the solder connections and use physical wires to reconnect the wires from the "underside" of the assembly (where the wires go through) to the outside wires? if that makes sense?

as for as getting a hanger assembly from jy, i live in wi. and right now it would suc to get one from the pick n pull. despite all the snow we getting as im typing this up.lol

Another situation today i have, Gave it full tank of gas from 1/4 tank, couple an hours later went to start the car and it started but idle was low at 300 rpm, sounds like it was slowly shutting off (probably was using w/e fuel in the lines and injectors). But i did notice that when i depress the gas pedal, it would shut off immediately.
so i read somewhere and if you release the pressure from the tank it might help. so i did and it fired up like nothing,(after 3-4 on and off starts already). so idk if that did anything. just telling what i did, maybe someone here had similar problem.

 

No I never bothered with trying that. I just tested it by supplying power to the hanger assembly itself (with a drill battery) and the pump did NOT power on.

However, when removing the pump and powering the pump leads directly, the pump powered on fine.

I replaced a hanger a few years ago with a junkyard one, and I kid you not, something like 2 or 3 days later the junkyard one failed too.

 

By the way, these are the leads to supply power (to test):