Just wanted to show y'all

 

Does it have a security system/alarm? Flashing headlight suggest a fault with the alarm

 

Does it have a security system (alarm)? Flashing headlight suggest a problem with the alarm.
FYI, it's kinda a waste of every bodies time if you are not giving all the symptoms. We try to suggest possible fixes but then you give another symptom; case in point, the flashing headlight is a very important piece of the puzzle.

 

car always starts when conditions are dry. car won't start when it's wet, even heavy dew in the morning. even if car is in the garage. i wait until it drys out, about a day, and car starts fine. checked the distributor and don't see any cracks. was looking at the plug wires and they looked fine also. was touching the wires on the distributor when the car was running and got a shock. replace the wires and or the distributor cap?
total noob about cars, think i can do it myself? thanks

 

Hijacking is frowned upon

 

Hopefully that isn't towards me because I worked hard for my 3rd gen,but to answer your guys question it doesn't have a security system not that I know of atleast but my bad if I keep leaving out "symptoms" but everything I told y'all is all that's wrong with the car,hence the title to my post about me being a noob,sorry if I'm wasting anyone's times.

 

I think tiniform was refering to markevans hijacking your thread with a problem of his own he should have started his own thread on. Your car should have a factory alarm system. You'll see it flashing on the dash after you shut the car off and lock the doors. Your horn will sound as your alarm. Coils are what's over your spark plugs being you have an se. Start with a simple tune up then see how the car runs as for your flashing headlight maybe tiniform can fill you in a little more on that one. I didn't know that was a symtom of a faulty alarm system.

 

If there is an alarm, factory or otherwise, it flashes the headlights as well as sounding the horn, that is how my vg factory alarm works. I would think the se came with a factory alarm as well so that is where I would start. In other instances, I would suggest taking a 12volt wire from the battery to the starter solonoid (spade) terminal and see if the engine turns over and that would eliminate the starter itself but being a "noob", I am not sure you would be able to do this safely.
If you could eliminate the starter with this test, then you will have to look at the circuitry, relays, wiring, ignition switch, fuses, neutral safety switch, etc.

 

Okay my car does have it,it flashes at times and what not and oh okay I get what he meant now lol,right now my battery is dead literally I just took it to pep boys to get it charged so I'm waiting my on that,is there any thread on here about changing the alternator on here you can refer me to? Because that's what my main problem is right now even though my dads mechanic said it wasn't it I'm sure it is that because how else is my battery dead ya feel me? So if anyone knows a thread here that can help me fix it than thanks

 

Major update guys! So I now have a mechanic who specifies in old cars,I now have a new alternator which is such a relief,the cables that were connected to it were melted together he showed me and he fixed that aswell! Next week I'm replacing my timing chain with a new one since you can hear a noise around the engine(I heard the little clink with some stethoscopes made for engines) so he said it's more than likely that so next week that's getting done,I also found out my car was miss firing so they said it can be a spark plug but that it also could be that fuel injectors are dirty,I'll update y'all when more repairs come!

 

I'm Effin sad! My buddy checked my heads and it turns out I blown head!

 

What does your buddy mean exactly by you "blown" a head?

 

He checked the head and the cylinder had oil in he,be quickly said I blew a head but I don't think it can be that

 

No offense, but your buddy sounds like he has no idea what he's talking about.

 

Thank you so much that's what I wanted to hear I knew that the only thing messed up is my timing chain,my car does misfire tho I've heard that it could be my spark plugs which I hope it's true

 

I should hope your buddy saw oil in the cylinder. Oil is supposed to be there And the only way he could've seen oil in the "cylinder" anyway is if he pulled a spark plug and somehow looked down into the cylinder itself through the spark plug hole, which I highly doubt.

I'm betting your buddy merely pulled a coil pack and saw some oil down in/around the spark plug - in which case it's merely indicative of a worn valve cover gasket which is perfectly normal and expected for a 20+ year old car. If that is the case, for your buddy to proclaim you "blown" a head is puzzling and comical and you should tell your buddy to refrain from diagnosing your car or offering you automotive advice.

Your misfire is either the injector, the coil pack, the spark plug, or low compression in that cylinder. You need to figure out which cylinder is the culprit first of all. Spark plugs you might as well just go ahead and replace all of those because it's cheap and easy and you can then rule them out right away.

While the engine is running, unplug each coil pack one at a time. Each time you do this, the engine should start to run even rougher. That's what you WANT. If you unplug it, and it runs rougher, plug it back in and move to the next cylinder. The cylinder with the misfire should NOT run any rougher when that coil pack is unplugged.

Once you have your individual cylinder culprit identified you can then try to rule in/out the actual coil pack itself. Move your coil packs around and see if the misfire "follows" that coil pack. If yes then your coil pack is the problem. If no then you need to move onto suspecting the injector or suspecting low compression in that cylinder.

You can test the injector(s) with a multimeter. You should get a reading of between 10-14 ohms on the injector(s) and if they're out of that range then you almost certainly have a bad injector.

If you've ruled out your coil pack and ruled out your injector in the offending cylinder then you should suspect low compression (likely worn piston rings). You can confirm that with a compression tester, which you can rent from virtually any auto parts store.

Good luck

 

Yes that's what he did no lie he made it seem all bad and what not I honestly got sad inside when he said that to me,but reading what you said made me feel way better,i was like noooooo my babygirl! But yeah he did exactly what you said and told me my head gaskets were blown,but I'll take your word over his anyday,okay once and if I identify which cool it is,where can I buy that or what? I really appreciate the help man thank you! And to think I've had people try to talk down on me for buying a 20 year old car lol I love my maxima

 

If your finding an excessive amount of oil after pulling a coil then you should get the valve cover gaskets done. Too much oil aound the plug could be giving you a misfire too but like James mentioned for what they're worth just change all the spark plugs but after you've done the gaskets if they're leaking badly besides if your not sure what the previous owner has done for maintenance a tune up is a good place to start. Before jumping to conclusions on your timing chain. The noise your describing may be the vct's and not the chain or chain guides.

 

Yeah good point on that last part on me not knowing what the previous owner did to it or not,well I'll be updating you guys on how all that goes,I'm going to get started on purchasing the necessary things like you guys mentioned,and surprisingly the parts are pretty cheap,it's possible to clean the spark plugs mean while i buy some new ones right?(probably buy them on sat)and the tune up is getting done on this coming Thursday,I also have one question that's been dwelling in the back of my head for a while,it isn't important for now but it'd be good to know,my question being do gen 7-8 maxima rims fit on the 3rd gen?

 

You can buy new coilpacks from several different aftermarket manufacturers. Will be a lot cheaper though to just get some good working used ones. You can get new coilpacks from aftermarket brand names Ultra-Power, Airtex/Wells, and Standard Motor Products. I bought a complete set of Airtex/Wells ones a few years ago and they turned out to be straight up repackaged OEM Nissan ones.

And yes all 1995+ Maxima wheels fit the 3rd gen. All 5x114.3 bolt pattern

 

Thanks that's going to come in handy when buying the parts,I noticed the spoiler on mine is coming off the clips were all rotten if you get what I mean,you can hardly tell it's coming off but yeah it's annoying me knowing that it's coming off haha,and seriously? Hell yeah! I don't know about you but the newer maxima rims (2011-2013) look freaking hard! It's crazy how out here in Cali you hardly see maxima's get any recognition like I said on my posts from before all you see are civics/accords/integras/Rsx/and preludes which personally annoy me because the people out here think they're fast and what not.

 

Cali Maxima don't get recognition as the Hondas because we have so little aftermarket/OEM upgrade support.

 

I've noticed that and it sucks honestly,in the city I live in Huntington park(pretty decent size city)I would always see this dude driving a 6th gen all fixed up and nice,the only maxima I would see here that was legit hard,now I hardly see it either he stopped using it or sold it,but yesterday I noticed my neighbor staring at my maxima while he got into his 8th gen which you can tell he's working on so hopefully he's a maxima guy cause that'd be dope lol.

 

Help! I brought it to a parking lot to do as I was told I turned on the car and unplugged all of them one by one and they're all messed up okay but here's my problem now that I'm turning on the car it doesn't stay on! Help me

 

I also unplugged both of those now the car doesn't stay on!!!!Attachment 8776

 

Those two

 

I'm thinking it's the same thing as tonyjrs because with that plug off it stays on but when it had it on I had to rev the engine so it can stay on and also like he said a peace of that broke off so it doesn't stay in place

 

I came to the conclusion that they're bad relays you can tell how corroded it looks,I'm waiting on my friend(the one who told me it was my head blown) at a park parking lot and see if he can help in any way I just want to go home now lol

 

It turns on with the fuse back in but I have to step on the gas to get the rpm up to atleast 1 and it stays on if I don't do that it just turns on and off on the spot

 

 

Check that video out I just uploaded it right now I'm sure it will give you guys and idea of what's happening

 

 

There's no way ALL of your coil packs are bad.

No those aren't relays, those are your VTC solenoids. Why in the world are you unplugging them? You have a bunch of oxidation in there you need to clean out. You can use some white vinegar to do so.

What are you talking about putting a fuse back in? What fuse did you pull out?

Not sure what to make of your video. Are you revving it? Or is it doing that on its own? I see you have a CEL too. You need to check the ECU code(s) for that.

 

Just watched your second video. The engine stays running as long as you keep it revved up? You do need to get your VTC harnesse(s) clean and secured for sure

 

Yeah I know I messed up on the first video by saying that and I thought that's what James meant by when he said unplug each one at a time :l and what I'm referring to as fuse would be that plug that has a peace broken off which has a little metal clip its all corroded as soon as that came off that's when everything started going down hill,my bad like I said I'm a noob who needs help from people with actual maximas

 

Your right they aren't all messed up if has to be one in the back where i can't reach

 

The metal clip isn't oxidated it's the plug and where it goes connected

 

My bad I just realized you are James and I just referred to you thinking it was someone else,I didn't answer your questions in full details and I'm sure that's annoying so I apologize,the first video was of it being turned on and it staying on 1rpm then I rev it up to 4 and if you can see it drops bellow 1 and kinda struggles to stay above it or below the first rpm

As in for the fuse that's what I was calling the plug and outlet that were oxidated like I said I'm new to this so feel free to correct me at any time

I took it to pep boys on Sunday since they check the check engine light for free but since my car being a 94 it had no connection for a scanner according to the dude at pepboys,that CEL just came on,on Sunday right after it came out that's when the car started misfiring and ever since its been on. I do believe that what I'm calling the fuse is actually the VTC solenoid which is green as f*** from the plug itself and the little outlet connection thing,because before that the car turned on normally,I had mentioned earlier that I drove it to a parking lot at a park close by my house that's when I started testing out the coil packs one by one,then my dumb headed butt decides to clean the solenoids and that's when I saw that one was really oxidated and after that I noticed the thing that keeps it locked on the plug(metal clip) was not there let alone the part that the metal clip inserts in also wasn't there so I know that there was my fault but before doing any of that the car would turn on fine and what not,I hope to have answers your questions James,my bad if I'm causing headaches or what not I'm just new to this and I have no one to help close by my house and my friend was no help when he got there,anyways thanks dude I wouldn't know **** if it weren't for any of you Guys on here haha

 

I doubt these are solenoids huh? Well this is what I meant by plugging in and out the "fuse"

 

And I know this might sound stupid as f*** but I'm inside my room and my car is parked 2 blocks away and I swear I can hear the motor running in my head pretty weird hah