Did you happen to get your negative cable straightened out yet? Was there a loose connection? Just curious how it worked out. If you had a loose negative cable that could have caused your stalling. Also did you happen to get yourself a battery tie down? and by the sounds of that misfire in your video it would be a good idea to do a good tune up on the car and check the resistance on your injectors once you get your stalling issue straightened out.

 

I would rebuild that positive wire clamp and get rid of those two plastic connectors. Don't need 'em. Solder-splice on some heavy gauge wire, heatshrink wrap the joints w/ 2 layers and clamp it down good and clean.

 

Thanks for asking. Actually came to start another thread, but seeing you guys replied to this one, i'll just keep it going here.

The problem i'm having now is the car cutting off while riding; sometimes it'll turn right back over. Sometimes it won't. Related or not, i have also noticed that when i hit a hard bump or make a sharp movement or turn that the rpm needle will drop low and jump back up; almost like the car dies and comes back to life really quick.

The car seems to overall be running at a low rpm too. The normal 900-925 when idling is now more of a low 600s. When i slow down to approaching a stoplight; i notice the rpm needle will drop like regular, then as i come to a complete stop, it'll bounce up to 900, then back to the 600. Don't think it is misfire related as i think it has been running on a mis since i've had it.

Did get the batt tied down though, and the negative wire is replaced. I don't think it is that.

Also oldpuck, i feel like if my problem isn't something i did wrong when installing the alternator, then it HAS to be something with that positive wire. Not to sound like a b**** but that might be a little too above my intelligence grade. XD

Think i'll go junkyardiganing again and see if i can find a complete positive wire that is good to take

 

Might not be related to your stalling but rather the rpm's fluctuating. Have you checked over your vacume lines for any cracks or dry rot? Vacume lines are pretty inexpensive. I replaced all mine with silicone. I just picked up a kit from vibrant and cut to length.

 

Great thinking. I've seen how much a loose vacuum line can change. Checked them all, and did find one that was so dryed and cracked that it literally slipped off like pulling a straw out of it's paper. Fixed that one but came across another and have a question.

Noticed two wires loose hanging from whatever this thing is. There wasn't much about it in the orange book or the blue book. The org says its a "vacuum surge tank". Anyone had experience on the importance of this? I hooked the two lines back into the bottom of it and the car started when it wouldn't about 5 minutes earlier; but that's been common.

 

Okay check out this video guys. FORGET EVERYTHING YOU'VE READ SO FAR.

but not really.

I'm having two main problems right now.
1. Car will start up fine. Can drive anywhere with no problem. BUT when i cut the car off, and try to crank it back up a second later, car will crank, but not turn over.

2. When i hit a bump on the driverside of the car, the rpm will bounce sporatically. It also happens slightly when going over speedbumps. I have attached a video of it happening. You can hear me hitting the reflectors in the road and see the bouncing.



I've checked the grounds (there's only two right?). I've tried tightening the alternator. Messing with the pos and neg wires. Checked all the hoses. And checked the org, but about to do more now. Do you guys have any advice? My friend is telling me take it to a mechanic, and i reply with i mineaswell take my wife there too so he can have sex with her; cause that's what it's like taking my max to a mechanic.

 

you mean the 2 vac hoses that go to the bottom of that soda can sized canister in the pic?
are they the same size? could they be on backwards?

 

grounds i know of off hand are
the main black wire from the negative battery post
it goes to the frame then over to the engine block

And there are 2 for the fuel injectors on the top rear of the metal intake
(10 mm bolts on 2 eyelets)

there is 1 to the back of the alternator

then there is the dropping resistor that goes from the transmission to the frame on the drivers side kinda under the airbox although i think i read its for shifting

and there are a few grounds inside the interior for various harnesses
more eylets,.....good luck

 

I definitely did not know this first of all. I thought someone spliced two wires themselves. So the negative wire hasn't been grounded to the frame for about a week for one..

But; did have this problem before i changed the negative wire.