Car only starts once
12-28-2016, 01:26 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Fl,USA
Posts: 85
Car only starts once
Sup fam.
92 Nissan Maxima. Problem started happening last month around the time i put in a new alternator and battery; post the old one frying up.
Now when i go out and start it up, it starts up fine.. The first time.
I can cut it on, cut it off, and try to start it literally 2 seconds later, and it will crank but not turn over. It will normally be down for what I'm guessing is maybe 2 hours, and when i try to crank it it will start up like nothing happened. I thought maybe temperature played a factor, but it does it whether it is cold or hot outside, and whether the engine is cold or hot.
I've done a couple things so far to no avail like;
New Spark plugs
Cleaned air filter
New fuel filter
Filled up tank
Checked fuses
Had starter tested
And i don't know what else to do. Any advice?
92 Nissan Maxima. Problem started happening last month around the time i put in a new alternator and battery; post the old one frying up.
Now when i go out and start it up, it starts up fine.. The first time.
I can cut it on, cut it off, and try to start it literally 2 seconds later, and it will crank but not turn over. It will normally be down for what I'm guessing is maybe 2 hours, and when i try to crank it it will start up like nothing happened. I thought maybe temperature played a factor, but it does it whether it is cold or hot outside, and whether the engine is cold or hot.
I've done a couple things so far to no avail like;
New Spark plugs
Cleaned air filter
New fuel filter
Filled up tank
Checked fuses
Had starter tested
And i don't know what else to do. Any advice?
01-07-2017, 07:08 PM
#2
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 69
Sup fam.
92 Nissan Maxima. Problem started happening last month around the time i put in a new alternator and battery; post the old one frying up.
Now when i go out and start it up, it starts up fine.. The first time.
I can cut it on, cut it off, and try to start it literally 2 seconds later, and it will crank but not turn over. It will normally be down for what I'm guessing is maybe 2 hours, and when i try to crank it it will start up like nothing happened. I thought maybe temperature played a factor, but it does it whether it is cold or hot outside, and whether the engine is cold or hot.
I've done a couple things so far to no avail like;
New Spark plugs
Cleaned air filter
New fuel filter
Filled up tank
Checked fuses
Had starter tested
And i don't know what else to do. Any advice?
92 Nissan Maxima. Problem started happening last month around the time i put in a new alternator and battery; post the old one frying up.
Now when i go out and start it up, it starts up fine.. The first time.
I can cut it on, cut it off, and try to start it literally 2 seconds later, and it will crank but not turn over. It will normally be down for what I'm guessing is maybe 2 hours, and when i try to crank it it will start up like nothing happened. I thought maybe temperature played a factor, but it does it whether it is cold or hot outside, and whether the engine is cold or hot.
I've done a couple things so far to no avail like;
New Spark plugs
Cleaned air filter
New fuel filter
Filled up tank
Checked fuses
Had starter tested
And i don't know what else to do. Any advice?
01-17-2017, 06:55 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Fl,USA
Posts: 85
So update thanks to you guys of the forum.
Started a new job monday so i decided to try one last time before i cave in and take it to a shop.
Friday-Took off the throttle body and cleaned that, the IACV, and the EGR, and cleaned all of those with Throttle Body Cleaner.
Car started 3 or 4 times back to back while sitting in my driveway checking for (and fixing) leaks. (Bought new hoses and replaced all of the ones i saw.)
Drove to pay my phone bill (20 min drive+Car rested for about 10 minutes) and when i got back to my car it was a no start again. The RPM needle didn't even budge. Came back to my car 3 hours later and it started no hesitation.
Monday-Started my new job and left my house at about 5am in the morning. Drove about 20 feet to a stop sign, and when i got to it, the car stalled out.
At every red light, or stop sign; the rpm would drop low and bounce up and down twice before stalling out. I would have to throw it in neutral and pump the gas a couple times while waiting at red lights just to keep it from cutting out. The lights would stay on and everything so i don't think it is battery related but i'm not positive about anything anymore.
Car is currently still parked at my job, because after about 5 hours of working, would still not cut on.
Tried holding down the pedal when starting it and nothing. I will attach pictures showing what i cleaned, i thing the egr valve was one of them, and not sure what emissions i have.
If i can't get this figured out today i'm just going to take it to a shop.Thanks guys
Started a new job monday so i decided to try one last time before i cave in and take it to a shop.
Friday-Took off the throttle body and cleaned that, the IACV, and the EGR, and cleaned all of those with Throttle Body Cleaner.
Car started 3 or 4 times back to back while sitting in my driveway checking for (and fixing) leaks. (Bought new hoses and replaced all of the ones i saw.)
Drove to pay my phone bill (20 min drive+Car rested for about 10 minutes) and when i got back to my car it was a no start again. The RPM needle didn't even budge. Came back to my car 3 hours later and it started no hesitation.
Monday-Started my new job and left my house at about 5am in the morning. Drove about 20 feet to a stop sign, and when i got to it, the car stalled out.
At every red light, or stop sign; the rpm would drop low and bounce up and down twice before stalling out. I would have to throw it in neutral and pump the gas a couple times while waiting at red lights just to keep it from cutting out. The lights would stay on and everything so i don't think it is battery related but i'm not positive about anything anymore.
Car is currently still parked at my job, because after about 5 hours of working, would still not cut on.
Tried holding down the pedal when starting it and nothing. I will attach pictures showing what i cleaned, i thing the egr valve was one of them, and not sure what emissions i have.
If i can't get this figured out today i'm just going to take it to a shop.Thanks guys
01-17-2017, 01:54 PM
#7
since the car is dead at your work place. Try to turn the key to the "on" position and listen for the fuel pump. You should it it priming for like 5 sec. if not my guess is your fuel pump went out. I had a similar situation. I got stranded couple times at the parking lot, came back few hours later and it would start right up. I had also experience the idle bouncing at stop lights. So I would check your terminal connections to the pump. they have been known do corrode over time. but all else fail, replace the fuel pump like i did. worked for me. GL
01-18-2017, 07:02 AM
#8
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Fl,USA
Posts: 85
since the car is dead at your work place. Try to turn the key to the "on" position and listen for the fuel pump. You should it it priming for like 5 sec. if not my guess is your fuel pump went out. I had a similar situation. I got stranded couple times at the parking lot, came back few hours later and it would start right up. I had also experience the idle bouncing at stop lights. So I would check your terminal connections to the pump. they have been known do corrode over time. but all else fail, replace the fuel pump like i did. worked for me. GL
01-18-2017, 08:16 AM
#9
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Fl,USA
Posts: 85
01-18-2017, 11:33 AM
#10
Yes the coolant temp. sensor is the green one you pointed out. It doesn't hurt to check the connector on the harness for any green corrosion and clean it up if you see any. They can cause some havoc but it sounds like your issue may be more fuel related.. though if you decided you wanted to put in a new coolant temp. sensor for piece of mind they are pretty inexpensive.. when listening for the fuel pump priming for those few seconds you should hear almost like a humming noise coming from the back end of the car.. not sure about sounding like someone peeing in a tin can but then again everyone has their own description of car noises lol.. may be a shot in the dark but it could also be the ignitor module behind the distributor causing a no start.. but check the obvious first.. air, fuel and spark.. you could try pulling the fuel line at the fuel filter and put a rag over it while someone cranks the engine over for you to see if you have fuel there when its not wanting to start and take a spark plug tester to check for spark.. might be a good idea first before checking or swapping the ignitor or cps in the distributor etc.
Last edited by ac max 92; 01-18-2017 at 11:41 AM.
01-18-2017, 12:27 PM
#11
if your coolant temp sensor is bad/broken/busted it might have a hard time idling but it should still start.
3 things that's needed for the engine to fire (start).
Air, fuel, spark...all needs to be in the correct sequence.
air...clearly you have addressed the air problem with new filter and cleaning the TB out.
fuel...when you're cranking the motor and etc do you smell fuel? does is smell like gas in and around the car? if so you have gas. if you're in doubt open the throttle body and fire some starter fluid in there. if it starts and runs for like a second and dies...then you clearly have a fuel problem. even if you have a jacked up fuel injector the car will still start with 4 cyl running...runs like crap but it'll run. fuel filter...is it super old....get that swapped out too.
Spark...what's the condition of your distributor cap and rotor inside? (it's the piece where all the wires goes into). i hate to say it but get a nissan one. it's a better quality piece...if you're in a hurry get any one that works at your local parts store. if you have cracks in your cap it will cause starting issues and the arc can jump around. while you're there change the rotor (the plastic piece that you see when you take the cap off). your wires seems to be in "ok" condition...are those ok? if they are questionable then pick up a set of NGK wires.
start with the basics...stop chasing down crazy stuff. cap and rotors are basic tune up components. get that swapped out and report back.
to get the cap off you need a big screwdriver. the rotor comes out with a 8mm (maybe it's a 10mm) bolt and once that's off pull it up and it's out. dead give away your cap is old is corrosion on the hardware that holds the cap down.
you can do this in a parking lot...good luck.
3 things that's needed for the engine to fire (start).
Air, fuel, spark...all needs to be in the correct sequence.
air...clearly you have addressed the air problem with new filter and cleaning the TB out.
fuel...when you're cranking the motor and etc do you smell fuel? does is smell like gas in and around the car? if so you have gas. if you're in doubt open the throttle body and fire some starter fluid in there. if it starts and runs for like a second and dies...then you clearly have a fuel problem. even if you have a jacked up fuel injector the car will still start with 4 cyl running...runs like crap but it'll run. fuel filter...is it super old....get that swapped out too.
Spark...what's the condition of your distributor cap and rotor inside? (it's the piece where all the wires goes into). i hate to say it but get a nissan one. it's a better quality piece...if you're in a hurry get any one that works at your local parts store. if you have cracks in your cap it will cause starting issues and the arc can jump around. while you're there change the rotor (the plastic piece that you see when you take the cap off). your wires seems to be in "ok" condition...are those ok? if they are questionable then pick up a set of NGK wires.
start with the basics...stop chasing down crazy stuff. cap and rotors are basic tune up components. get that swapped out and report back.
to get the cap off you need a big screwdriver. the rotor comes out with a 8mm (maybe it's a 10mm) bolt and once that's off pull it up and it's out. dead give away your cap is old is corrosion on the hardware that holds the cap down.
you can do this in a parking lot...good luck.
01-18-2017, 02:29 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Fl,USA
Posts: 85
if your coolant temp sensor is bad/broken/busted it might have a hard time idling but it should still start.
3 things that's needed for the engine to fire (start).
Air, fuel, spark...all needs to be in the correct sequence.
air...clearly you have addressed the air problem with new filter and cleaning the TB out.
fuel...when you're cranking the motor and etc do you smell fuel? does is smell like gas in and around the car? if so you have gas. if you're in doubt open the throttle body and fire some starter fluid in there. if it starts and runs for like a second and dies...then you clearly have a fuel problem. even if you have a jacked up fuel injector the car will still start with 4 cyl running...runs like crap but it'll run. fuel filter...is it super old....get that swapped out too.
Spark...what's the condition of your distributor cap and rotor inside? (it's the piece where all the wires goes into). i hate to say it but get a nissan one. it's a better quality piece...if you're in a hurry get any one that works at your local parts store. if you have cracks in your cap it will cause starting issues and the arc can jump around. while you're there change the rotor (the plastic piece that you see when you take the cap off). your wires seems to be in "ok" condition...are those ok? if they are questionable then pick up a set of NGK wires.
start with the basics...stop chasing down crazy stuff. cap and rotors are basic tune up components. get that swapped out and report back.
to get the cap off you need a big screwdriver. the rotor comes out with a 8mm (maybe it's a 10mm) bolt and once that's off pull it up and it's out. dead give away your cap is old is corrosion on the hardware that holds the cap down.
you can do this in a parking lot...good luck.
3 things that's needed for the engine to fire (start).
Air, fuel, spark...all needs to be in the correct sequence.
air...clearly you have addressed the air problem with new filter and cleaning the TB out.
fuel...when you're cranking the motor and etc do you smell fuel? does is smell like gas in and around the car? if so you have gas. if you're in doubt open the throttle body and fire some starter fluid in there. if it starts and runs for like a second and dies...then you clearly have a fuel problem. even if you have a jacked up fuel injector the car will still start with 4 cyl running...runs like crap but it'll run. fuel filter...is it super old....get that swapped out too.
Spark...what's the condition of your distributor cap and rotor inside? (it's the piece where all the wires goes into). i hate to say it but get a nissan one. it's a better quality piece...if you're in a hurry get any one that works at your local parts store. if you have cracks in your cap it will cause starting issues and the arc can jump around. while you're there change the rotor (the plastic piece that you see when you take the cap off). your wires seems to be in "ok" condition...are those ok? if they are questionable then pick up a set of NGK wires.
start with the basics...stop chasing down crazy stuff. cap and rotors are basic tune up components. get that swapped out and report back.
to get the cap off you need a big screwdriver. the rotor comes out with a 8mm (maybe it's a 10mm) bolt and once that's off pull it up and it's out. dead give away your cap is old is corrosion on the hardware that holds the cap down.
you can do this in a parking lot...good luck.
Thanks a ton OG. Pictures coming.
1. I'm pretty sure i replaced that coolant temp sensor 2-4 years ago (which is why the metal whatchamacall it (the holder clip) is missing.
2. Fuel filter is new. Maybe literally 3 weeks old. Not sure if one of the hoses is clogged or something. I do smell gas around the car. Wasn't sure if that was normal...
3. Rotor tip is maybe 2 years old. Spark plugs could def be the problem. Recently noticed that some of them aren't "snapping in" like they used to. Also noticed some corrosion on the plug tips coming from the distributor cap. Didn't notice any cracks at all.
01-18-2017, 03:50 PM
#13
swap out those wires then.
the VG have this deep spark plug where you have that long tube that goes into them. if they are not in the best shape it'll be tough to get the terminal to clip on to the plug itself. if you have a volt meter you can always check resistance on the ends of the wires to see if they are good or bad.
while you're there after cranking the motor over (no start) pull the spark plugs. are they wet with fuel? if they are then you have working injectors.
rotor looks ok...the cap there looks to be a chip on it...is that a crack or something? take a pic of the 3 screws that you undid to pull the cap off.
also a crack in the cap is usually like a hairline one...so not one that you can really see. sometimes you can see the arc jump out if you're cranking and it's dark out.
the VG have this deep spark plug where you have that long tube that goes into them. if they are not in the best shape it'll be tough to get the terminal to clip on to the plug itself. if you have a volt meter you can always check resistance on the ends of the wires to see if they are good or bad.
while you're there after cranking the motor over (no start) pull the spark plugs. are they wet with fuel? if they are then you have working injectors.
rotor looks ok...the cap there looks to be a chip on it...is that a crack or something? take a pic of the 3 screws that you undid to pull the cap off.
also a crack in the cap is usually like a hairline one...so not one that you can really see. sometimes you can see the arc jump out if you're cranking and it's dark out.
02-16-2017, 08:07 AM
#14
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Fl,USA
Posts: 85
So holy crap 1 month later update. Took it to a shop and they thought it was the distibutor cap as well DanNY. They tried that and the MAS and 3 weeks and almost 400 dollars later pretty much told me "we tried everything and couldn't find the problem. we think it's the ecu".
I couldn't find many ecu threads here with the third gens but i feel like ecu makes sense related to my previous thread (this one- https://maxima.org/forums/3rd-genera...e-driving.html)
Local yard sells "car brainbox" for 30$. Gonna try that and keep you guys updated.
I couldn't find many ecu threads here with the third gens but i feel like ecu makes sense related to my previous thread (this one- https://maxima.org/forums/3rd-genera...e-driving.html)
Local yard sells "car brainbox" for 30$. Gonna try that and keep you guys updated.
02-16-2017, 10:33 AM
#15
Could just as well be an ecu issue after your short due to your battery bouncing and breaking the positive connector and melting the fusible link. Maybe something got fried on the board in the ecu after that ordeal.
02-16-2017, 02:36 PM
#16
BEFORE working on in tank fuel pumps or lines,NO smoking,be weary of stactic electricity sparks(touch metal just before to discharge "carpet/sweater static)(like they say to do at the gas pump)KNOW that our fuel lines are under pressure AND WILL Spray when disconnected(I WEAR goggles and use a rag to block and soak fuel when disconnecting)
OKAY the fuel pump access plate and wire harness is under the rear seat bottom,You can remove the bottom of the rear seat very easy by prying up
but its better to use a screwdriver or panel popper tool and pry up where the u bent anchor goes into the body(sitting in the rear seat its where the cushions bottom meets the carpet in between legs under a crotch,lol)
notice and check where the wires to the fuel pump body
snap on under the 3 or 4 plastic caps strung together,
it can get rusty in cars with rain leaks/clogged right rear sunroof drains(where the antenna drain meets the R,R roof drain at the metal Y
Or even soda spills,flooded cars,pants peeded,lol
ive pulled and swapped a fuel pump or 2 or cleaned its intake "sock filter bag" before but its a dangerous
keep and replace to o ring gasket if you open the pump/tank access
Last edited by maximagician; 02-16-2017 at 02:38 PM.
02-17-2017, 06:21 AM
#17
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Fl,USA
Posts: 85
As far as i know they tested the fuel pump; but of course they could be lying.
And i couldn't find anything on the site. Any guides on removing ecu for third? I've already been down there when trying to pull codes, but haven't gotten a GOOD look yet. Is it all screws?
And i couldn't find anything on the site. Any guides on removing ecu for third? I've already been down there when trying to pull codes, but haven't gotten a GOOD look yet. Is it all screws?
02-21-2017, 07:03 AM
#18
The ecu isn't too difficult to remove. You'll see where the bracket over the ecu and tcu attach to the floor pan. I believe they're 8mm bolts but have a Phillips screw head but I believe a socket is easier..