still stuck on boost (another thread that will never die)
01-31-2002, 05:23 PM
#2
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 23
Re: still stuck on boost
You don't need pistons. Leave the engine together. It seems most of the time when people take a japanese engine apart, it goes back together way worse than it started.
Run a good turbo, not some crap from the junk yard. Big injectors, fuel pump, intercooler and exhaust. Finally, have a JWT ecu done up.
I'm running 15psi on 91 pump with a bone stock VG and no problems.
MK
Run a good turbo, not some crap from the junk yard. Big injectors, fuel pump, intercooler and exhaust. Finally, have a JWT ecu done up.
I'm running 15psi on 91 pump with a bone stock VG and no problems.
MK
01-31-2002, 05:29 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 606
Re: Re: still stuck on boost
Originally posted by j30_vg30et
You don't need pistons. Leave the engine together. It seems most of the time when people take a japanese engine apart, it goes back together way worse than it started.
Run a good turbo, not some crap from the junk yard. Big injectors, fuel pump, intercooler and exhaust. Finally, have a JWT ecu done up.
I'm running 15psi on 91 pump with a bone stock VG and no problems.
MK
You don't need pistons. Leave the engine together. It seems most of the time when people take a japanese engine apart, it goes back together way worse than it started.
Run a good turbo, not some crap from the junk yard. Big injectors, fuel pump, intercooler and exhaust. Finally, have a JWT ecu done up.
I'm running 15psi on 91 pump with a bone stock VG and no problems.
MK
You have a nice car btw
01-31-2002, 08:53 PM
#5
Yup.. even with the 10:1 comp ratio, the VE block SHOULD still be good for 12 psi without blowing things up.. Of course, that's ONLY if you get fuel, air, and timing right.. 5psi on stock fuel pressure detonates horribly, so to run any boost you WILL need to at least upgrade the fuel pressure.
simply put, a rising rate FPR should get you to at least 9psi without problems on fuel.
Our injectors flow the same as 4th gen at the exact same fuel pressures. some of the SC guys are running 12 psi on stock engines and injectors.. Their compression ratio is ALSO 10:1.
Thus, going by what they've done, once intercooled, we should be able to play up to 12psi with no problems.
simply put, a rising rate FPR should get you to at least 9psi without problems on fuel.
Our injectors flow the same as 4th gen at the exact same fuel pressures. some of the SC guys are running 12 psi on stock engines and injectors.. Their compression ratio is ALSO 10:1.
Thus, going by what they've done, once intercooled, we should be able to play up to 12psi with no problems.
01-31-2002, 09:17 PM
#7
if you do that, you'll never get to the boost.
I would suggest you do BRAKES first, then put boost next on the list. forget the rest of the crap...
If you do everything else first, you're going to be REALLY ****ed when you first stick the turbo in and blow up the car and have nothing to show for years of work. (don't ask why I'm saying this.. I don't knoe from experience or anything.
)
.. soooo, do the boost and get it running.. once you're happy with the engine, THEN build everything else around it and make it look nice.
no point in spending thousands of dollars on building a show car, then blowing it into tiny bits...
I would suggest you do BRAKES first, then put boost next on the list. forget the rest of the crap...
If you do everything else first, you're going to be REALLY ****ed when you first stick the turbo in and blow up the car and have nothing to show for years of work. (don't ask why I'm saying this.. I don't knoe from experience or anything.
).. soooo, do the boost and get it running.. once you're happy with the engine, THEN build everything else around it and make it look nice.
no point in spending thousands of dollars on building a show car, then blowing it into tiny bits...
01-31-2002, 09:33 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,238
show car? no no no no. . .it was bad enough that i put a system in my ride. i hate spending money on non performance stuff. this is what i'll need b4 boost:
rims
Clutch (and if i pull the tranny i'm doin the synchros and flywheel)
ECU
WSP subframes
Koni shocks
THEN i'll boost. i have a 1500 dollar check coming april 1, plus work. july 1 I'll get another 1500 dollar check, then october another. . . . so eventually i'll get to the boost
right now i'm gonna start collecting the parts necessary. . . .
rims
Clutch (and if i pull the tranny i'm doin the synchros and flywheel)
ECU
WSP subframes
Koni shocks
THEN i'll boost. i have a 1500 dollar check coming april 1, plus work. july 1 I'll get another 1500 dollar check, then october another. . . . so eventually i'll get to the boost
right now i'm gonna start collecting the parts necessary. . . .
01-31-2002, 09:49 PM
#9
1. you don't need rims.
2. definitely do the clutch. ACT street or better.
3. DO NOT do an ECU first. you'll blow the engine if you plug a turbo onto a "regular" JWT ECU.. if you do the ECU, do it the same time you install the turbo. have them put very conservative settings in it, then reprogram it later.
4. sure, why not. not necessary for a turbo, but they help the handling.
5. same.
2. definitely do the clutch. ACT street or better.
3. DO NOT do an ECU first. you'll blow the engine if you plug a turbo onto a "regular" JWT ECU.. if you do the ECU, do it the same time you install the turbo. have them put very conservative settings in it, then reprogram it later.
4. sure, why not. not necessary for a turbo, but they help the handling.
5. same.
01-31-2002, 11:01 PM
#10
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 23
Originally posted by Matt93SE
1. you don't need rims.
2. definitely do the clutch. ACT street or better.
3. DO NOT do an ECU first. you'll blow the engine if you plug a turbo onto a "regular" JWT ECU.. if you do the ECU, do it the same time you install the turbo. have them put very conservative settings in it, then reprogram it later.
4. sure, why not. not necessary for a turbo, but they help the handling.
5. same.
1. you don't need rims.
2. definitely do the clutch. ACT street or better.
3. DO NOT do an ECU first. you'll blow the engine if you plug a turbo onto a "regular" JWT ECU.. if you do the ECU, do it the same time you install the turbo. have them put very conservative settings in it, then reprogram it later.
4. sure, why not. not necessary for a turbo, but they help the handling.
5. same.
Don't be affraid of the compression. The VE has an awesome combustion chamber, way better than the TTz. I've actually heard of TTz dudes swapping VE heads onto the motor to reduce the included angle. Anyway there are ton's of examples showing the compression isn't an issue.
Clutch is a biggie. I've got a TTz cover on a single turbo disk all bolted to a lightened stock flywheel. It can hang as long as the pedal doesn't come out fast off the line. After engine mounts (again) that's the next thing in line.
Re: rims. You'll never have traction in 1 or 2 so don't worry about wheels. I'm rolling TTz wheels mounted backwards.
I definitely recommend an ECU. The stock timing maps really just aren't compatable with boost. From about 5psi up I'm near half the stock timing. Without some foul band-aid plug in boxes and a ton of fuel pressure will you ever get around the stock tuning. Plus you don't get to change injectors like you should, raise the rev limiter, rework closed loop, etc. Once you start making some power, you'll run out of range on the stock MAF, which you can only fix in the ECU...
You can try an FMU, AFC, e-Manage, whatever... But it'll never really be right. It's either an ECU or stand-alone.
Oh yeah, chassis stuff. I did the foamseal as outlined on the web page and it worked real well. Kinda like installing a roll cage, but you can still get in and out.
Good luck,
MK
01-31-2002, 11:41 PM
#11
j30, have you taken a look at the warpspeed subframe connectors?
They made a HUGE difference in the handling of my car. I'm talking like 10-15% better stick on hard corners...
I've got all the other suspension mods out there already, including camber correction (which I don't really need for street, but WILL have the car on the track someday. blah blah).. but regular cloverleaf corners posted at 25mph.. I would max out at just around 45 before the subframes.
after installing the subframes, I hit the rev limiter in 2nd while going around them the first time. (that's about 67mph on a VE).
very impressive.
so what type of ECU are you running on your car? I'm going to leave mine stock for the time being, and simply retard the timing and use an FPR. once I get it running well enough at 5psi, I'll do an intercooler and up the boost a bit more.
I probably won't go over 9-10psi anyway.. this 170k mile engine probably won't survive long already!
They made a HUGE difference in the handling of my car. I'm talking like 10-15% better stick on hard corners...
I've got all the other suspension mods out there already, including camber correction (which I don't really need for street, but WILL have the car on the track someday. blah blah).. but regular cloverleaf corners posted at 25mph.. I would max out at just around 45 before the subframes.
after installing the subframes, I hit the rev limiter in 2nd while going around them the first time. (that's about 67mph on a VE).
very impressive.
so what type of ECU are you running on your car? I'm going to leave mine stock for the time being, and simply retard the timing and use an FPR. once I get it running well enough at 5psi, I'll do an intercooler and up the boost a bit more.
I probably won't go over 9-10psi anyway.. this 170k mile engine probably won't survive long already!
01-31-2002, 11:41 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 298
I have two sets of solid Urethane VG mounts, one of them is waiting for my turbo project to be finished, the other... I dunno yet.
-Kaleb
-Kaleb
Originally posted by j30_vg30et
Just some comments on the stuff above:
Don't be affraid of the compression. The VE has an awesome combustion chamber, way better than the TTz. I've actually heard of TTz dudes swapping VE heads onto the motor to reduce the included angle. Anyway there are ton's of examples showing the compression isn't an issue.
Clutch is a biggie. I've got a TTz cover on a single turbo disk all bolted to a lightened stock flywheel. It can hang as long as the pedal doesn't come out fast off the line. After engine mounts (again) that's the next thing in line.
Re: rims. You'll never have traction in 1 or 2 so don't worry about wheels. I'm rolling TTz wheels mounted backwards.
I definitely recommend an ECU. The stock timing maps really just aren't compatable with boost. From about 5psi up I'm near half the stock timing. Without some foul band-aid plug in boxes and a ton of fuel pressure will you ever get around the stock tuning. Plus you don't get to change injectors like you should, raise the rev limiter, rework closed loop, etc. Once you start making some power, you'll run out of range on the stock MAF, which you can only fix in the ECU...
You can try an FMU, AFC, e-Manage, whatever... But it'll never really be right. It's either an ECU or stand-alone.
Oh yeah, chassis stuff. I did the foamseal as outlined on the web page and it worked real well. Kinda like installing a roll cage, but you can still get in and out.
Good luck,
MK
Just some comments on the stuff above:
Don't be affraid of the compression. The VE has an awesome combustion chamber, way better than the TTz. I've actually heard of TTz dudes swapping VE heads onto the motor to reduce the included angle. Anyway there are ton's of examples showing the compression isn't an issue.
Clutch is a biggie. I've got a TTz cover on a single turbo disk all bolted to a lightened stock flywheel. It can hang as long as the pedal doesn't come out fast off the line. After engine mounts (again) that's the next thing in line.
Re: rims. You'll never have traction in 1 or 2 so don't worry about wheels. I'm rolling TTz wheels mounted backwards.
I definitely recommend an ECU. The stock timing maps really just aren't compatable with boost. From about 5psi up I'm near half the stock timing. Without some foul band-aid plug in boxes and a ton of fuel pressure will you ever get around the stock tuning. Plus you don't get to change injectors like you should, raise the rev limiter, rework closed loop, etc. Once you start making some power, you'll run out of range on the stock MAF, which you can only fix in the ECU...
You can try an FMU, AFC, e-Manage, whatever... But it'll never really be right. It's either an ECU or stand-alone.
Oh yeah, chassis stuff. I did the foamseal as outlined on the web page and it worked real well. Kinda like installing a roll cage, but you can still get in and out.
Good luck,
MK
02-01-2002, 05:24 AM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 606
Originally posted by j30_vg30et
Just some comments on the stuff above:
Don't be affraid of the compression. The VE has an awesome combustion chamber, way better than the TTz. I've actually heard of TTz dudes swapping VE heads onto the motor to reduce the included angle. Anyway there are ton's of examples showing the compression isn't an issue.
Clutch is a biggie. I've got a TTz cover on a single turbo disk all bolted to a lightened stock flywheel. It can hang as long as the pedal doesn't come out fast off the line. After engine mounts (again) that's the next thing in line.
Re: rims. You'll never have traction in 1 or 2 so don't worry about wheels. I'm rolling TTz wheels mounted backwards.
I definitely recommend an ECU. The stock timing maps really just aren't compatable with boost. From about 5psi up I'm near half the stock timing. Without some foul band-aid plug in boxes and a ton of fuel pressure will you ever get around the stock tuning. Plus you don't get to change injectors like you should, raise the rev limiter, rework closed loop, etc. Once you start making some power, you'll run out of range on the stock MAF, which you can only fix in the ECU...
You can try an FMU, AFC, e-Manage, whatever... But it'll never really be right. It's either an ECU or stand-alone.
Oh yeah, chassis stuff. I did the foamseal as outlined on the web page and it worked real well. Kinda like installing a roll cage, but you can still get in and out.
Good luck,
MK
Just some comments on the stuff above:
Don't be affraid of the compression. The VE has an awesome combustion chamber, way better than the TTz. I've actually heard of TTz dudes swapping VE heads onto the motor to reduce the included angle. Anyway there are ton's of examples showing the compression isn't an issue.
Clutch is a biggie. I've got a TTz cover on a single turbo disk all bolted to a lightened stock flywheel. It can hang as long as the pedal doesn't come out fast off the line. After engine mounts (again) that's the next thing in line.
Re: rims. You'll never have traction in 1 or 2 so don't worry about wheels. I'm rolling TTz wheels mounted backwards.
I definitely recommend an ECU. The stock timing maps really just aren't compatable with boost. From about 5psi up I'm near half the stock timing. Without some foul band-aid plug in boxes and a ton of fuel pressure will you ever get around the stock tuning. Plus you don't get to change injectors like you should, raise the rev limiter, rework closed loop, etc. Once you start making some power, you'll run out of range on the stock MAF, which you can only fix in the ECU...
You can try an FMU, AFC, e-Manage, whatever... But it'll never really be right. It's either an ECU or stand-alone.
Oh yeah, chassis stuff. I did the foamseal as outlined on the web page and it worked real well. Kinda like installing a roll cage, but you can still get in and out.
Good luck,
MK
Now that would be really nice.
Where have you been all these years?
02-01-2002, 11:09 AM
#15
Originally posted by kaleb
I have two sets of solid Urethane VG mounts, one of them is waiting for my turbo project to be finished, the other... I dunno yet.
-Kaleb
I have two sets of solid Urethane VG mounts, one of them is waiting for my turbo project to be finished, the other... I dunno yet.
-Kaleb
02-01-2002, 04:51 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 606
Originally posted by Lordrandall
No, not possible.
Z31 VG30E-T, yes
Search is your master.
No, not possible.
Z31 VG30E-T, yes
Search is your master.
Reread what j30_vg30et said:
Don't be affraid of the compression. The VE has an awesome combustion chamber, way better than the TTz. I've actually heard of TTz dudes swapping VE heads onto the motor to reduce the included angle. Anyway there are ton's of examples showing the compression isn't an issue.
02-01-2002, 04:58 PM
#17
Yes RIF.
Didn't you just ask if a TT Z32 block would fit into a maxima?? And this WOULD be covered under the search feature.
Lordy replied no which is correct AFAIK.
The other gentlemen was commenting on how VE heads fit the Z32 block. This is not what you asked.
Didn't you just ask if a TT Z32 block would fit into a maxima?? And this WOULD be covered under the search feature.
Lordy replied no which is correct AFAIK.
The other gentlemen was commenting on how VE heads fit the Z32 block. This is not what you asked.
Originally posted by jim90gxe
Ya know reading is fundamental?
Reread what j30_vg30et said:
TTz=z32. Search is not going to help as this is the first time someone has said that.
Ya know reading is fundamental?
Reread what j30_vg30et said:
TTz=z32. Search is not going to help as this is the first time someone has said that.
02-01-2002, 05:23 PM
#18
There is a way you CAN lower compression without replacing the pistons
Wether or not the integrity (sp) of the piston is strong enough or not i dunno and i doubt it. Jeff or some1 else that knows more about them may know.
But the old muscle guys used to pop off the heads and mill down the top of the piston, basically shaving the top of the piston off into a little divit like the TTZ pistons.
but like i said i don't know if that would weaken the pistons to the point they'd be worthless. Probably YES it will but you never know.
Wether or not the integrity (sp) of the piston is strong enough or not i dunno and i doubt it. Jeff or some1 else that knows more about them may know.
But the old muscle guys used to pop off the heads and mill down the top of the piston, basically shaving the top of the piston off into a little divit like the TTZ pistons.
but like i said i don't know if that would weaken the pistons to the point they'd be worthless. Probably YES it will but you never know.
02-01-2002, 09:39 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,030
Originally posted by Sith
There is a way you CAN lower compression without replacing the pistons
Wether or not the integrity (sp) of the piston is strong enough or not i dunno and i doubt it. Jeff or some1 else that knows more about them may know.
But the old muscle guys used to pop off the heads and mill down the top of the piston, basically shaving the top of the piston off into a little divit like the TTZ pistons.
but like i said i don't know if that would weaken the pistons to the point they'd be worthless. Probably YES it will but you never know.
There is a way you CAN lower compression without replacing the pistons
Wether or not the integrity (sp) of the piston is strong enough or not i dunno and i doubt it. Jeff or some1 else that knows more about them may know.
But the old muscle guys used to pop off the heads and mill down the top of the piston, basically shaving the top of the piston off into a little divit like the TTZ pistons.
but like i said i don't know if that would weaken the pistons to the point they'd be worthless. Probably YES it will but you never know.
02-01-2002, 10:21 PM
#20
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,394
Originally posted by mykizism
or you can mill down the heads.. the top of the combustion camber.. and you will lose compression.. or thiker head gaskets
or you can mill down the heads.. the top of the combustion camber.. and you will lose compression.. or thiker head gaskets
02-01-2002, 10:58 PM
#21
another easy way to drop the compression is to use two head gaskets.
on high HP cars, that may be a problem as the gaksets would blow.. but on a maxima with under 300hp, I don't see it being too much of a concern.
on the TTZ/VE issue, j30 said the Z guys are using VE heads, not the VE guys using V parts.
and FYI, the Z32 block IS the same as a VG.. (with piston oil squirters added). block, same. heads VERY different.
on high HP cars, that may be a problem as the gaksets would blow.. but on a maxima with under 300hp, I don't see it being too much of a concern.
on the TTZ/VE issue, j30 said the Z guys are using VE heads, not the VE guys using V parts.
and FYI, the Z32 block IS the same as a VG.. (with piston oil squirters added). block, same. heads VERY different.
02-02-2002, 12:06 AM
#22
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,030
Originally posted by Maximamike
If you mill down the heads, you raise compression ratio. If you work the combustion chamber, you might lower the compression ratio a little...
If you mill down the heads, you raise compression ratio. If you work the combustion chamber, you might lower the compression ratio a little...
02-02-2002, 12:09 AM
#23
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,030
Originally posted by Matt93SE
and FYI, the Z32 block IS the same as a VG.. (with piston oil squirters added). block, same. heads VERY different.
and FYI, the Z32 block IS the same as a VG.. (with piston oil squirters added). block, same. heads VERY different.
how come no one has tried swapping in a z32 engine (heads or complete engine into the maxima.. instead of the old traditional sohc vg?
or is every one around here just that lazy to do so
i mean.. are you saying that my vg motor has the EXACT same block as the vg30dett block?
or are they a lil bit different?
02-02-2002, 12:44 AM
#25
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 606
Originally posted by mykizism
how come no one has tried swapping in a z32 engine (heads or complete engine into the maxima.. instead of the old traditional sohc vg?
or is every one around here just that lazy to do so
i mean.. are you saying that my vg motor has the EXACT same block as the vg30dett block?
or are they a lil bit different?
how come no one has tried swapping in a z32 engine (heads or complete engine into the maxima.. instead of the old traditional sohc vg?
or is every one around here just that lazy to do so
i mean.. are you saying that my vg motor has the EXACT same block as the vg30dett block?
or are they a lil bit different?
The ttz is a vg 60° block with dohc. It is just too wide to fit east west in a maxima engine bay.
02-02-2002, 10:26 AM
#27
I did 5.5-6psi already . Intercoolers are not efficent enough to run below about 8 psi or so. No one makes a thicker HG yet that I know of.
Matt. I would NOT run two oem HGs. I don't think that would even come close to sealing well even on an na application.
. Intercoolers are not efficent enough to run below about 8 psi or so. No one makes a thicker HG yet that I know of. Matt. I would NOT run two oem HGs. I don't think that would even come close to sealing well even on an na application.
Originally posted by Sith
Intercooler, FMU, Thicker Headgasket, colder spark plugs. ANd you SHOULD be able to run 6 -8 psi safely without detonation with good tuning.
Intercooler, FMU, Thicker Headgasket, colder spark plugs. ANd you SHOULD be able to run 6 -8 psi safely without detonation with good tuning.
02-02-2002, 10:37 AM
#28
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 298
WHY Do you guys want to lower compression? Just do your fuel system correctly (good pressure ratio, nice cold plugs, nice TTZ fuel pump or equivalent), and 10 PSI is no problem IF you're intercooled. You can run non-intercooled up to about 8 PSI before the intake temps get too high (read: detonation). Getting JWT to recode an ECU for your boost application isn't necessary, but will yield greater HP if you do.
BTW, Jeff, I'm gonna have Majestic of Dallas rebuild mine straight T-3 for now, then sell that and go T3/T4 for my PIMP Stage 2, 15-18 PSI of intercooled 300+ crank HP magic! I can't wait until I blow something up! Haha.
-Kaleb
BTW, Jeff, I'm gonna have Majestic of Dallas rebuild mine straight T-3 for now, then sell that and go T3/T4 for my PIMP Stage 2, 15-18 PSI of intercooled 300+ crank HP magic! I can't wait until I blow something up! Haha.
-Kaleb
Originally posted by Jeff92se
I did 5.5-6psi already. Intercoolers are not efficent enough to run below about 8 psi or so. No one makes a thicker HG yet that I know of.
Matt. I would NOT run two oem HGs. I don't think that would even come close to sealing well even on an na application.
I did 5.5-6psi already
. Intercoolers are not efficent enough to run below about 8 psi or so. No one makes a thicker HG yet that I know of. Matt. I would NOT run two oem HGs. I don't think that would even come close to sealing well even on an na application.
02-02-2002, 10:45 AM
#29
Pimp stage II. haha. Yup, I got mine back already. Just normal T3 stuff. I think for your application(full motor rebuild etc) you might want to consider a T3 mod or that T3/T4. I see them on Ebay too. But for me(just normal na and high compression), it would take alot to justify a T3/T4 hybrid turbo.
Originally posted by kaleb
BTW, Jeff, I'm gonna have Majestic of Dallas rebuild mine straight T-3 for now, then sell that and go T3/T4 for my PIMP Stage 2, 15-18 PSI of intercooled 300+ crank HP magic! I can't wait until I blow something up! Haha.
-Kaleb
BTW, Jeff, I'm gonna have Majestic of Dallas rebuild mine straight T-3 for now, then sell that and go T3/T4 for my PIMP Stage 2, 15-18 PSI of intercooled 300+ crank HP magic! I can't wait until I blow something up! Haha.
-Kaleb
02-02-2002, 11:38 AM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 382
even a blown VG30DETT motor is expensive. Not worth the cost. You would be better off getting the Z31 bottom end and mating it to the heads on a maxima.
Originally posted by mykizism
i mean.. are you saying that my vg motor has the EXACT same block as the vg30dett block?
i mean.. are you saying that my vg motor has the EXACT same block as the vg30dett block?
02-02-2002, 12:04 PM
#32
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,030
Originally posted by kaleb
WHY Do you guys want to lower compression? Just do your fuel system correctly (good pressure ratio, nice cold plugs, nice TTZ fuel pump or equivalent), and 10 PSI is no problem IF you're intercooled. You can run non-intercooled up to about 8 PSI before the intake temps get too high (read: detonation). Getting JWT to recode an ECU for your boost application isn't necessary, but will yield greater HP if you do.
BTW, Jeff, I'm gonna have Majestic of Dallas rebuild mine straight T-3 for now, then sell that and go T3/T4 for my PIMP Stage 2, 15-18 PSI of intercooled 300+ crank HP magic! I can't wait until I blow something up! Haha.
-Kaleb
kaleb, what compression are you stock compression? and what motor are you using..
i mean ur right, if you used the right parts you can run boost to a decent level with out blowing things up..
but lowering compression can yield more boost, and perhaps make more power instead of staying a low boost level and higher compression
WHY Do you guys want to lower compression? Just do your fuel system correctly (good pressure ratio, nice cold plugs, nice TTZ fuel pump or equivalent), and 10 PSI is no problem IF you're intercooled. You can run non-intercooled up to about 8 PSI before the intake temps get too high (read: detonation). Getting JWT to recode an ECU for your boost application isn't necessary, but will yield greater HP if you do.
BTW, Jeff, I'm gonna have Majestic of Dallas rebuild mine straight T-3 for now, then sell that and go T3/T4 for my PIMP Stage 2, 15-18 PSI of intercooled 300+ crank HP magic! I can't wait until I blow something up! Haha.
-Kaleb
kaleb, what compression are you stock compression? and what motor are you using..
i mean ur right, if you used the right parts you can run boost to a decent level with out blowing things up..
but lowering compression can yield more boost, and perhaps make more power instead of staying a low boost level and higher compression
02-02-2002, 04:34 PM
#33
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,020
Originally posted by Jeff92se
Pimp stage II. haha. Yup, I got mine back already. Just normal T3 stuff. I think for your application(full motor rebuild etc) you might want to consider a T3 mod or that T3/T4. I see them on Ebay too. But for me(just normal na and high compression), it would take alot to justify a T3/T4 hybrid turbo.
Pimp stage II. haha. Yup, I got mine back already. Just normal T3 stuff. I think for your application(full motor rebuild etc) you might want to consider a T3 mod or that T3/T4. I see them on Ebay too. But for me(just normal na and high compression), it would take alot to justify a T3/T4 hybrid turbo.
How much did the turbo place get you for? did they do any upgrades at the same time? Are you planning on putting the porject back together?
02-03-2002, 12:01 AM
#34
Once I found out what the oil blasting out of my tailpipe was. ie.. blown ring, HG etc.. I went ahead and got it rebuilt at TurboTechnologies in Tacoma. They were not the cheapest but I wanted to keep the business close. I might have to go to them later for stuff. Straight rebuild. I can't really justify an ugrade to a hybrid. Cost was about $315+tax etc. I've arranged to have an entirely new manifold done(actually two) w/ the help of a .org friend. We are waiting for the final costs. I don't think it's gonna be cheap. If you read this thread, PM me and let me know where you got the T3 flange from(I forget). Due to welding clearances, we might even need one that's doesn't have stud holes. We want to drill/tap studs to solve the welding around the bolt heads thing.
Originally posted by Czar
Hey Jeff!
How much did the turbo place get you for? did they do any upgrades at the same time? Are you planning on putting the porject back together?
Hey Jeff!
How much did the turbo place get you for? did they do any upgrades at the same time? Are you planning on putting the porject back together?
02-04-2002, 03:38 PM
#35
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 23
more notes...
But the old muscle guys used to pop off the heads and mill down the top of the piston, basically shaving the top of the piston off into a little divit like the TTZ pistons.
head gaskets: HKS makes a couple different thicknesses. They aren't listed in the catalog, but they are available.
Cold plugs: I'm running one range cooler than stock. They're Nissan motorsport parts that a decent parts person should be able to find. Honestly, they didn't make any difference.
About the turbo, you really shouldn't use a turbine smaller than a T3 stage 3 in a 0.63 housing. Anything smaller and you'll choke the engine. Go with the standard T04E 50 trim compressor and you'll be good for silly power. 1.6L Hondas are using these, and they are plenty responsive. If in doubt, look at any stock VG30ET and notice how badly cracked the exhaust manifolds and turbine housing are. It's a clear indication of extreme thermal stress. Note that these cars only run about 5psi.
Once I found out what the oil blasting out of my tailpipe was. ie.. blown ring, HG etc.
Intercoolers work. At 5psi (which isn't any fun) and 70% compressor efficiency, 75F day, your intake temps are over 140F. Yesterday I looked at my Fluke and it said: Intercooler in 220F, intercooler out 75F. It was a 65F day. That was 17psi.
Big turbine's really help out reducing detonation. Also, on a big engine (like ours), you will pick up response going to something bigger than a basic T3 as the engine will make more power "on the motor". Think of it like this: T3=stock crappy downpipe, T3/T4=y-pipe.
Finally, stock timing in my '91 computer went from 20-28 deg of timing at WOT, now it peaks at 17 deg. You can't take that much out of the distributor, and won't be able to cover it up with fuel. The only real answer for a turbo car is an ECU.
Best of luck.
MK
02-04-2002, 05:01 PM
#36
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 23
Originally posted by Matt93SE
[B]j30, have you taken a look at the warpspeed subframe connectors? They made a HUGE difference in the handling of my car.
So what type of ECU are you running on your car?
[B]j30, have you taken a look at the warpspeed subframe connectors? They made a HUGE difference in the handling of my car.
So what type of ECU are you running on your car?
http://www.ITWfoamseal.com/auto_aftermarket.htm
Note: I used 10lb/ft^3 material. It looks like they're selling 2lb/ft^3 in the kit. It should still help, but the SAE papers I have show a linear relationship of stress/strain vs. deflection.
I'm using a JWT ECU from an M30. They are mostly plug in compatable with the Maxima ECU, and provide Consult support which the VG cars don't have. If the VE engine's ECU supports the Consult, then you're set.
You really should get one. Imagine not buying the FMU as a $250 cupon off the ECU.
MK
02-04-2002, 07:45 PM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,394
Originally posted by j30_vg30et
I've had lots of luck too with stiffening the chassis. Rather than welding stuff on the outside, I poured structural foam inside the existing chassis cavities. It worked really well, quieted the car down, and improved the ride significantly. The car actually pushed much worse after the install, which was a big change from the near neutral balance it had before. This wasn't really a result of the foam, rather it just brought out other problems. More on the stuff here:
http://www.ITWfoamseal.com/auto_aftermarket.htm
Note: I used 10lb/ft^3 material. It looks like they're selling 2lb/ft^3 in the kit. It should still help, but the SAE papers I have show a linear relationship of stress/strain vs. deflection.
I'm using a JWT ECU from an M30. They are mostly plug in compatable with the Maxima ECU, and provide Consult support which the VG cars don't have. If the VE engine's ECU supports the Consult, then you're set.
You really should get one. Imagine not buying the FMU as a $250 cupon off the ECU.
MK
I've had lots of luck too with stiffening the chassis. Rather than welding stuff on the outside, I poured structural foam inside the existing chassis cavities. It worked really well, quieted the car down, and improved the ride significantly. The car actually pushed much worse after the install, which was a big change from the near neutral balance it had before. This wasn't really a result of the foam, rather it just brought out other problems. More on the stuff here:
http://www.ITWfoamseal.com/auto_aftermarket.htm
Note: I used 10lb/ft^3 material. It looks like they're selling 2lb/ft^3 in the kit. It should still help, but the SAE papers I have show a linear relationship of stress/strain vs. deflection.
I'm using a JWT ECU from an M30. They are mostly plug in compatable with the Maxima ECU, and provide Consult support which the VG cars don't have. If the VE engine's ECU supports the Consult, then you're set.
You really should get one. Imagine not buying the FMU as a $250 cupon off the ECU.
MK
Email --> Mike@Boosted-Maximas.net
02-05-2002, 05:53 AM
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,030
Originally posted by j30_vg30et
The car actually pushed much worse after the install, which was a big change from the near neutral balance it had before. This wasn't really a result of the foam, rather it just brought out other problems. More on the stuff here:
MK
The car actually pushed much worse after the install, which was a big change from the near neutral balance it had before. This wasn't really a result of the foam, rather it just brought out other problems. More on the stuff here:
MK
Do you mean taking off from a dead stop?
or during cornering?
but if it wasnt the foam that caused this, what was the cause of the feelings of the car