building subframe connectors
01-31-2002, 11:43 PM
#2
you don't want to build a set, trust me.
I was there, I prototyped the second set ever made, I saw them make them, I gave them my input.
It would be cheaper for you to buy the WSP subframes and pay to install them than it would be for you to go to a shop that has the tools and piping and have them do it for you.
and NO, you CANNOT build these things in your garage, no matter what kind of tools you have. (then again, I do know guys with a 4 post lift and pipe benders in their garage.....)
I was there, I prototyped the second set ever made, I saw them make them, I gave them my input.
It would be cheaper for you to buy the WSP subframes and pay to install them than it would be for you to go to a shop that has the tools and piping and have them do it for you.
and NO, you CANNOT build these things in your garage, no matter what kind of tools you have. (then again, I do know guys with a 4 post lift and pipe benders in their garage.....)
02-01-2002, 12:02 AM
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2000
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Originally posted by Matt93SE
you don't want to build a set, trust me.
I was there, I prototyped the second set ever made, I saw them make them, I gave them my input.
It would be cheaper for you to buy the WSP subframes and pay to install them than it would be for you to go to a shop that has the tools and piping and have them do it for you.
and NO, you CANNOT build these things in your garage, no matter what kind of tools you have. (then again, I do know guys with a 4 post lift and pipe benders in their garage.....)
you don't want to build a set, trust me.
I was there, I prototyped the second set ever made, I saw them make them, I gave them my input.
It would be cheaper for you to buy the WSP subframes and pay to install them than it would be for you to go to a shop that has the tools and piping and have them do it for you.
and NO, you CANNOT build these things in your garage, no matter what kind of tools you have. (then again, I do know guys with a 4 post lift and pipe benders in their garage.....)
02-01-2002, 12:08 AM
#4
No, they're not really that difficult.. I'm also under contract with WSP that I can't tell you much more than what you can look under the car and see- which is a few bars welded to the frame and a big X brace in the middle.
the rest is up to you to figure out. It can be done.. it's definitely not a semester project.. maybe a week or two at absolute most.
the rest is up to you to figure out. It can be done.. it's definitely not a semester project.. maybe a week or two at absolute most.
02-01-2002, 12:12 AM
#5
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Originally posted by Matt93SE
No, they're not really that difficult.. I'm also under contract with WSP that I can't tell you much more than what you can look under the car and see- which is a few bars welded to the frame and a big X brace in the middle.
the rest is up to you to figure out. It can be done.. it's definitely not a semester project.. maybe a week or two at absolute most.
No, they're not really that difficult.. I'm also under contract with WSP that I can't tell you much more than what you can look under the car and see- which is a few bars welded to the frame and a big X brace in the middle.
the rest is up to you to figure out. It can be done.. it's definitely not a semester project.. maybe a week or two at absolute most.
Are subframe connectors a pretty basic idea?
What type of material would work best?
thanks
02-01-2002, 12:17 AM
#6
Originally posted by ngthing
Okay, thanks for your help Matt. A few more questions to those who can answer them.
Are subframe connectors a pretty basic idea?
What type of material would work best?
thanks
Okay, thanks for your help Matt. A few more questions to those who can answer them.
Are subframe connectors a pretty basic idea?
What type of material would work best?
thanks
material? strong tube-steel.
02-01-2002, 12:29 AM
#7
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Posts: 706
speakin o which... did you ever get pix of those x braces or anything?
just curious.. my swaybar mount broke after i had it welded.. need to find a new solution for that.. hopefully the subframes or at least the x brace comes close enough?
just curious.. my swaybar mount broke after i had it welded.. need to find a new solution for that.. hopefully the subframes or at least the x brace comes close enough?
02-01-2002, 12:40 AM
#8
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Originally posted by ngthing
I ask because I'm taking metals and materials in conjunction with autobody at school. The metals teacher has been working with metal and materials fabrication for over 50 years, and we have over 10 million dollars in equipment at our disposal (just in the materials department). We've got a bucnch of lifts and a full suite of tools in the autobody department. I need to do a semester project, and I thought, why not something useful? If I have some guidance from you guys, as well as help from both teachers, I think I could do this. The connectors themselves don't look that difficult, but maybe I'm missing out on something?
I ask because I'm taking metals and materials in conjunction with autobody at school. The metals teacher has been working with metal and materials fabrication for over 50 years, and we have over 10 million dollars in equipment at our disposal (just in the materials department). We've got a bucnch of lifts and a full suite of tools in the autobody department. I need to do a semester project, and I thought, why not something useful? If I have some guidance from you guys, as well as help from both teachers, I think I could do this. The connectors themselves don't look that difficult, but maybe I'm missing out on something?
haha thats some rich school
02-01-2002, 12:42 AM
#9
no pics on my end.. no time.. might do it this weekend or something.. I'm going to be under there most of the weekend already. (another new wheel bearing, starting on the stereo, other stuff.)
but the SFCs and other stuff don't get anywhere near the sway bar links. they're 2+ feet away.
I've talked to several people about making stronger mounts. just bide your time, and they'll be out shortly.
but the SFCs and other stuff don't get anywhere near the sway bar links. they're 2+ feet away.
I've talked to several people about making stronger mounts. just bide your time, and they'll be out shortly.
02-01-2002, 12:44 AM
#10
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Originally posted by mykizism
10 million dollars of automotive equipment?
haha thats some rich school
10 million dollars of automotive equipment?
haha thats some rich school
5 4pt lifts in one building, another 5 in the detailing shop. paint booth, a whole set of machines, lathes, mills, some machine that cuts metal out /w a comptuer. lots of cool stuff. i gotta get busy and learn it all!
ooh, and there's this one machine i used, i designed some parts in rhino3d and this machine uses like sugar or startch and recreates it in 3d. NOW THAT was cool.
02-01-2002, 01:38 AM
#11
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 706
sounds good man, the clunking and rattling is getting embarrassing
the swaybar bracket hasn't quite broken through... its sort of
halfway... just enough so the link rattles around inside it
i hate having to tell everybody whats wrong with my car
and then have them suggest putting the damn stock swabar on to fix it
MORONS!!! oh well
the swaybar bracket hasn't quite broken through... its sort of
halfway... just enough so the link rattles around inside it
i hate having to tell everybody whats wrong with my car
and then have them suggest putting the damn stock swabar on to fix it
MORONS!!! oh well
02-01-2002, 10:55 AM
#12
Originally posted by ngthing
5 4pt lifts in one building, another 5 in the detailing shop.
5 4pt lifts in one building, another 5 in the detailing shop.
www.warpspeedperformance.com
02-01-2002, 06:19 PM
#13
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 121
Originally posted by ngthing
Okay, thanks for your help Matt. A few more questions to those who can answer them.
Are subframe connectors a pretty basic idea?
What type of material would work best?
thanks
Okay, thanks for your help Matt. A few more questions to those who can answer them.
Are subframe connectors a pretty basic idea?
What type of material would work best?
thanks
Good luck.
02-01-2002, 09:16 PM
#14
Originally posted by Lordrandall
Remember, you can't put the SFC's on with a 4 point lift.
www.warpspeedperformance.com
Remember, you can't put the SFC's on with a 4 point lift.
www.warpspeedperformance.com
But ngthing, you do not want to try this at home. SFC's are specialy constructed to be one with your suspension. Prodotyping them: Takes someone with lots of years/experience in bracing.
02-02-2002, 06:17 AM
#15
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 666
SFC
Donald, what is stated on our web page is you need to have a DRIVE on lift. It dosn't matter if there are 2 or 4 lift points, its having the car in a neutral position that counts. Using a hoist that lifts the car between the wheels is to be avoided as the car flexes. If you weld on the SFCs like that, you probably won't be able to open/close your doors.
When we did your car it was a drive on hoist that had 4 lift points.
Dan WSP
When we did your car it was a drive on hoist that had 4 lift points.
Dan WSP
03-30-2002, 11:08 PM
#17
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: IN
Posts: 203
the concept is VERY simple, and price of materials wouldnt be very much actually
i am serioursly thinking of making a set my self, but i would want bolt on's, or at least removeable,
all you are trying to do is stiffen the chasie (spelling is way off tonight) because the car is essentially in sections of strength, you want to link them together, looking under your car my be the biggest help you can find, steel or even certian aluminum would be fine, and hardend steel for bolts is what i was thinking, use tube because of its great structural properties..
tho i cant promise you the same results as wsp, i CAN tell you that its hard to f*** up stuff like this, unless you simply install it wrong, or have to 'wedge' in something, then your really not gonna screw much up.
of course certian precautions need to be made but either way.
please email me so we can discuss this matter further
Chrispy@aginet.com
i am serioursly thinking of making a set my self, but i would want bolt on's, or at least removeable,
all you are trying to do is stiffen the chasie (spelling is way off tonight) because the car is essentially in sections of strength, you want to link them together, looking under your car my be the biggest help you can find, steel or even certian aluminum would be fine, and hardend steel for bolts is what i was thinking, use tube because of its great structural properties..
tho i cant promise you the same results as wsp, i CAN tell you that its hard to f*** up stuff like this, unless you simply install it wrong, or have to 'wedge' in something, then your really not gonna screw much up.
of course certian precautions need to be made but either way.
please email me so we can discuss this matter further
Chrispy@aginet.com
03-30-2002, 11:13 PM
#18
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,835
wow, people acutally use the search 
i've added you to my IM
i've added you to my IM
Originally posted by chrispy
the concept is VERY simple, and price of materials wouldnt be very much actually
i am serioursly thinking of making a set my self, but i would want bolt on's, or at least removeable,
all you are trying to do is stiffen the chasie (spelling is way off tonight) because the car is essentially in sections of strength, you want to link them together, looking under your car my be the biggest help you can find, steel or even certian aluminum would be fine, and hardend steel for bolts is what i was thinking, use tube because of its great structural properties..
tho i cant promise you the same results as wsp, i CAN tell you that its hard to f*** up stuff like this, unless you simply install it wrong, or have to 'wedge' in something, then your really not gonna screw much up.
of course certian precautions need to be made but either way.
please email me so we can discuss this matter further
Chrispy@aginet.com
the concept is VERY simple, and price of materials wouldnt be very much actually
i am serioursly thinking of making a set my self, but i would want bolt on's, or at least removeable,
all you are trying to do is stiffen the chasie (spelling is way off tonight) because the car is essentially in sections of strength, you want to link them together, looking under your car my be the biggest help you can find, steel or even certian aluminum would be fine, and hardend steel for bolts is what i was thinking, use tube because of its great structural properties..
tho i cant promise you the same results as wsp, i CAN tell you that its hard to f*** up stuff like this, unless you simply install it wrong, or have to 'wedge' in something, then your really not gonna screw much up.
of course certian precautions need to be made but either way.
please email me so we can discuss this matter further
Chrispy@aginet.com
03-31-2002, 06:58 AM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 666
subframes
ngthing , Matt is correct, they are basiclly metal pipes. Dallas and I researched and talked to quite a few people about this project and spent alot of cash getting them up and running. Initally we wanted a complete bolt on application but gave up on it. In order to do it correct you are talking about removing the seats, drilling holes through the floor, at the same time being careful not to hit brake lines and other essential stuff.If you have a shop that has a full range of equiptment, you could certainlly do a set, but I believe your best bet is to buy a set, and do the install at your school for the project and save your hard earned money for one of our newest exhaust mods. Which we will be posting about soon. This mod is gonna be unique and another WSP first for the Maxima. More info soon.
Dan WSP
Dan WSP
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