what is kept in mind when building subframe connectors? i'd like to build a set.

 

you don't want to build a set, trust me.
I was there, I prototyped the second set ever made, I saw them make them, I gave them my input.

It would be cheaper for you to buy the WSP subframes and pay to install them than it would be for you to go to a shop that has the tools and piping and have them do it for you.

and NO, you CANNOT build these things in your garage, no matter what kind of tools you have. (then again, I do know guys with a 4 post lift and pipe benders in their garage.....)

 

I ask because I'm taking metals and materials in conjunction with autobody at school. The metals teacher has been working with metal and materials fabrication for over 50 years, and we have over 10 million dollars in equipment at our disposal (just in the materials department). We've got a bucnch of lifts and a full suite of tools in the autobody department. I need to do a semester project, and I thought, why not something useful? If I have some guidance from you guys, as well as help from both teachers, I think I could do this. The connectors themselves don't look that difficult, but maybe I'm missing out on something?

 

No, they're not really that difficult.. I'm also under contract with WSP that I can't tell you much more than what you can look under the car and see- which is a few bars welded to the frame and a big X brace in the middle.

the rest is up to you to figure out. It can be done.. it's definitely not a semester project.. maybe a week or two at absolute most.

 

Okay, thanks for your help Matt. A few more questions to those who can answer them.

Are subframe connectors a pretty basic idea?
What type of material would work best?

thanks

 

yup.. it's a biga$$ metal brace. not very hard to understand.

material? strong tube-steel.

 

speakin o which... did you ever get pix of those x braces or anything?
just curious.. my swaybar mount broke after i had it welded.. need to find a new solution for that.. hopefully the subframes or at least the x brace comes close enough?

 

10 million dollars of automotive equipment?
haha thats some rich school

 

no pics on my end.. no time.. might do it this weekend or something.. I'm going to be under there most of the weekend already. (another new wheel bearing, starting on the stereo, other stuff.)


but the SFCs and other stuff don't get anywhere near the sway bar links. they're 2+ feet away.

I've talked to several people about making stronger mounts. just bide your time, and they'll be out shortly.

 

yeah, no kidding. the school is in a nice area.

5 4pt lifts in one building, another 5 in the detailing shop. paint booth, a whole set of machines, lathes, mills, some machine that cuts metal out /w a comptuer. lots of cool stuff. i gotta get busy and learn it all!

ooh, and there's this one machine i used, i designed some parts in rhino3d and this machine uses like sugar or startch and recreates it in 3d. NOW THAT was cool.

 

sounds good man, the clunking and rattling is getting embarrassing
the swaybar bracket hasn't quite broken through... its sort of
halfway... just enough so the link rattles around inside it
i hate having to tell everybody whats wrong with my car
and then have them suggest putting the damn stock swabar on to fix it
MORONS!!! oh well

 

Remember, you can't put the SFC's on with a 4 point lift.

www.warpspeedperformance.com

 

Yes, they're a basic idea that's been around a long time, I think back when the first subframe cars came out in the 1960's. The idea is to join the front and rear frame portions together, making the car more rigid. The material to use would be 2"x2" mild steel (best for cutting/welding) tubing with a wall thickness of 1/8". Careful measuring, a welder (mig) and cleaning the areas on the car to be welded down to bare metal are all that are needed. They're not that difficult to do, A good project if you're trying to save some money.
Good luck.

 

I put mine on with a 4 point lift.

But ngthing, you do not want to try this at home. SFC's are specialy constructed to be one with your suspension. Prodotyping them: Takes someone with lots of years/experience in bracing.

 

Donald, what is stated on our web page is you need to have a DRIVE on lift. It dosn't matter if there are 2 or 4 lift points, its having the car in a neutral position that counts. Using a hoist that lifts the car between the wheels is to be avoided as the car flexes. If you weld on the SFCs like that, you probably won't be able to open/close your doors.
When we did your car it was a drive on hoist that had 4 lift points.

Dan WSP

 

Oh, my fault. Thanks for clearing that up Dan. Now it is time to go wash my car. And get ready for this install meet. ttyl

 

the concept is VERY simple, and price of materials wouldnt be very much actually

i am serioursly thinking of making a set my self, but i would want bolt on's, or at least removeable,

all you are trying to do is stiffen the chasie (spelling is way off tonight) because the car is essentially in sections of strength, you want to link them together, looking under your car my be the biggest help you can find, steel or even certian aluminum would be fine, and hardend steel for bolts is what i was thinking, use tube because of its great structural properties..

tho i cant promise you the same results as wsp, i CAN tell you that its hard to f*** up stuff like this, unless you simply install it wrong, or have to 'wedge' in something, then your really not gonna screw much up.

of course certian precautions need to be made but either way.

please email me so we can discuss this matter further
Chrispy@aginet.com

 

wow, people acutally use the search i've added you to my IM

 

ngthing , Matt is correct, they are basiclly metal pipes. Dallas and I researched and talked to quite a few people about this project and spent alot of cash getting them up and running. Initally we wanted a complete bolt on application but gave up on it. In order to do it correct you are talking about removing the seats, drilling holes through the floor, at the same time being careful not to hit brake lines and other essential stuff.If you have a shop that has a full range of equiptment, you could certainlly do a set, but I believe your best bet is to buy a set, and do the install at your school for the project and save your hard earned money for one of our newest exhaust mods. Which we will be posting about soon. This mod is gonna be unique and another WSP first for the Maxima. More info soon.

Dan WSP

 

I wouldnt attempt it. If you dont set the SFC's in the right spot, you will just have some hefty bars under your car doing nothing. Trust me! They have to be in the right spot to be correct.