Knock Sensor Replacement
Knock Sensor Replacement
Well I finally got around to replacing my dead knock sensor. After pulling the plenum and manifold off, I finally reached the sensor. When I inspected the sensor, I noticed that there is only one wire going into it. This is strange because the connector outside of the engine block has 2 wires, but the connector at the sensor only has 1 wire (white). The black wire stops about half way to the sensor and is all taped up. Does the sensor work with just one wire? Is this normal? Any ideas?
Sensor stopped working do to corrosion at the connection, just like the coolant temp sensor.
Sensor stopped working do to corrosion at the connection, just like the coolant temp sensor.
I don't have a new wire for it, just a new sensor. The only reason I brought it up is because when I went to install the new sensor, I noticed that the plug on the wire harness only had 1 metal contact. After looking closer at the wire, I saw that the insulation on the black wire was removed and the strands were wrapped around the other wire (like a coaxial cable on a TV). I don't know if this is normal or not. Maybe I should just get a new wire and not worry about it.
Originally posted by GreenMaxVE
I don't have a new wire for it, just a new sensor. The only reason I brought it up is because when I went to install the new sensor, I noticed that the plug on the wire harness only had 1 metal contact. After looking closer at the wire, I saw that the insulation on the black wire was removed and the strands were wrapped around the other wire (like a coaxial cable on a TV). I don't know if this is normal or not. Maybe I should just get a new wire and not worry about it.
I don't have a new wire for it, just a new sensor. The only reason I brought it up is because when I went to install the new sensor, I noticed that the plug on the wire harness only had 1 metal contact. After looking closer at the wire, I saw that the insulation on the black wire was removed and the strands were wrapped around the other wire (like a coaxial cable on a TV). I don't know if this is normal or not. Maybe I should just get a new wire and not worry about it.
So how is the car running with the new sensor? Does it sound quieter?
i'm doing the exact same thing and noticed the same wire configuration that you described. I think its normal since the black wire that leads to nothing connects to ground at the harness. the exposed metal on the sensor itself is grounded as well. I tested the resistance between the signal wire from the sensor and ground and got 550k ohms which is normal. BUT i still get a 0304 DTC even after i clear the error code and check that everything is connected. Perhaps the sensor is messed up even though the resistance is OK. I was also wondering where you got your sensor and how much you paid. I bet your gas mileage sucks too, like mine. Anyways, let me know how things turn out.
I haven't got the new sensor in yet. The engine is still in pieces in the garage because I'm waiting for the intake manifold gaskets to arrive in the mail. That's interesting that you mentioned a TSB about retarded timing with the sensor. I decided to change it because of bad gas mileage and I could feel the engine drop power (retard timing) as soon as the ecu went into open loop mode. I'm going over to the dealer on Monday to ask them about this wire.
Re: Knock Sensor Replacement
Originally posted by GreenMaxVE
[
Sensor stopped working do to corrosion at the connection, just like the coolant temp sensor. [/B]
[
Sensor stopped working do to corrosion at the connection, just like the coolant temp sensor. [/B]
Alot of car owners like to clean there motor. This just goes to show you that spraying crap on the motor and washing it down just leads to more oxidation on important sensor connections.
I'm interested in removing my manifold and cleaning the connector....How much is the intake gasket? any other gaskets needed?
funny that most people remove their intake manifolds to access their knock sensors cause i just reached in there w. a long extension and a universal joint!
saved alot of time!! but i'm kinda wondering how i'm gonna accurately torque the bolt when i install the new one. maybe i do need to take everything out after all!
saved alot of time!! but i'm kinda wondering how i'm gonna accurately torque the bolt when i install the new one. maybe i do need to take everything out after all!
Re: Re: Knock Sensor Replacement
Originally posted by eric93SE
Alot of car owners like to clean there motor. This just goes to show you that spraying crap on the motor and washing it down just leads to more oxidation on important sensor connections.
I'm interested in removing my manifold and cleaning the connector....How much is the intake gasket? any other gaskets needed?
Alot of car owners like to clean there motor. This just goes to show you that spraying crap on the motor and washing it down just leads to more oxidation on important sensor connections.
I'm interested in removing my manifold and cleaning the connector....How much is the intake gasket? any other gaskets needed?
The gasket between the plenum and the lower manifold was quoted at $6
There are also 6 rubber insulators/o-rings under the injectors where they fit into the manifold.
As long as you don't remove the TB or EGR for cleaning, then you will just need a tube of gasket sealant for the coolant connections.
Originally posted by kchida
funny that most people remove their intake manifolds to access their knock sensors cause i just reached in there w. a long extension and a universal joint!
saved alot of time!! but i'm kinda wondering how i'm gonna accurately torque the bolt when i install the new one. maybe i do need to take everything out after all!
funny that most people remove their intake manifolds to access their knock sensors cause i just reached in there w. a long extension and a universal joint!
saved alot of time!! but i'm kinda wondering how i'm gonna accurately torque the bolt when i install the new one. maybe i do need to take everything out after all!
I'm about to replace my knock sensor as well...Did you ever determine if there's a torque recommendation?...or is the tighten till it feels right approach OK?
Originally Posted by GreenMaxVE
There are 2 lower intake manifold gaskets: local dealer quoted me $30 each
The gasket between the plenum and the lower manifold was quoted at $6
There are also 6 rubber insulators/o-rings under the injectors where they fit into the manifold.
As long as you don't remove the TB or EGR for cleaning, then you will just need a tube of gasket sealant for the coolant connections.
The gasket between the plenum and the lower manifold was quoted at $6
There are also 6 rubber insulators/o-rings under the injectors where they fit into the manifold.
As long as you don't remove the TB or EGR for cleaning, then you will just need a tube of gasket sealant for the coolant connections.
Where exactly is the knock sensor located at in the engine bay. Is it right under the oil filter?
Originally Posted by Mr.Davon24
Where exactly is the knock sensor located at in the engine bay. Is it right under the oil filter?
EDIT: Instead of bringing back a 5 year old thread do a little searching first and you would of found your answer.
Originally Posted by Josh
We wish. It is under the lower intake manifold and hence is one of the most dreaded jobs. You should check out the cost for the lower gaskets.
the VG has it by the rear exhaust manifold
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