I'm not really sure where to start on trying to fix my new paper weight so to speak. Seems that when I put the car in drive and try to give it gas, around 2000rpms the engine will start jumping up and down pretty quick. To and more, if I try to give it more gas, the engine just keeps jumping around and i get nowhere. Does anyone have a idea where i should start?

 

don't know but I read here by Matt93SE that if the maf was bad it would do something like that, but other than that not sure.

 

Hey thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I'll keep yall posted on how everything works out.

 

BRozolins,
From what you described, it sound like your engine is in what we call "fail-safe" or "limp-home" mode. What happen is when the computer detected there is a failure in one of the major input component in the engine management like you have said Mass Air Flow meter then it will switch to this mode so at least you can drive your car out of the traffic or to the nearest service station.
That is the most common problem with Nissan, I've not seen any other components that causing this symtom. Good luck.

 

Well did a bit of digging, and found out that the MAF cost around $390.00 to replace. Dayum, you gotta love tax returns. Once again thanks for the help yall. Ah yes, one more thing. Is there anyway of getting around not having to buy a new or used MAF?

 

I am currently looking at a 89 Max with a lot of electronic features in it (my profile indicates that I HAVE a 89 Max, the truth is that I do not own a Max, but am currently looking for one). My question is: Is it a good idea to buy a Max with all of that electronic controlled stuff in it? I mean the dash is electronic, the odometer is electronic, the AC/Heat control is electronic, the seats are power seats.
All of this is being offered to me for $3500. Another problem is that the previous owner(s) didn't seem to change the tranny fluid and when I checked it, it was a brownish color. But when I drove it the shifting and running of the tranny was good(no slips or lags between gear change) Another problem is that the radiator system has not been kept up either, the coolant inside is a rusty brown.

Can someone help me analyze how much this car should be worth?
I know this is probably not enough info, but so far this is what I and a friend have deemed most costly to perform a pro flush on the tranny and the radiator systems

 

I would test the MAF before I bought one for that price. I know the Haynes manual has some tests for it and the Chiltons should too.

Keep an eye on this board and the parts for sell board because alot of people part out their cars and it would be a lot cheaper to buy a maf that way. You may try a junk yard to find one but a lot of junk yards have a "no return" policy of electrical parts.

good luck.

 

I also think it's the MAF, I got my max for 300.00 when the dealer told this girl the fuel pump was bad and the tank was too rusted to be removed and she would ned a new tank also the funny thing is, don't ya think the dealer would know you get at the fuel pump under the rear seat, and come to find out the pump was fine, I pulled the codes from the computer and found the MAF to be bad, (had the same problem as yours) got one at a jumk yard for $50./$75. ( car-part.com ) 20,000 its still going strong.
If you need to know more about the codes, let me know

 

I would love to know how to pull the codes, I have a violent consistent surging problem in my 92sc. Just trying to diagnose it before I have to bring it to the dealer, has new )2 sensor and noapparent vacuun leaks.

Thanks

 

Did you check the ignition components? A really, really bad engine miss would cause this. I speak from experience, too. This would be an easy test and an easier fix if it turned out to be the problem. Start with the plugs, then wires, then injectors, and find out how long it's been since it had a tune up. Good luck...

 

First, you will have to get at the computer, it's behind the center console, under the radio, you may need to unbolt it to see the two LED lights but do not unplug it or you will lose any codes it has stored, next find the LED lights, next to the LED's you will find a small screw driver slot marked something like mode selector (like anything, remember where it's set before you touch anything)
turn the ignition key to on, gently turn the mode selector on the computer fully clockwise, the lights should flash once, then twice then 3 times after the thrid time turn the screw back fully counter clockwise and count the flashes the red will flash frist (tenths) then the green (single digits) so if the red flashes once and the green flashes 3 times that is code 13 there are to many codes to list here so let me know what they are and i'll look them up for you and probley anyone here with a Haynes manual may also have them.
If your computer doe's not have the same things I discribed don't try this, let me know, hope this helps, good luck

 

NO and NO....the tranny being brown means that will be costing you 1100-2000 $$$ at some point. Dirty radiatior fluid could indicate head gasket problem.....another grand...keep looking