Keeping a VE cooler?
#1
Keeping a VE cooler?
It seems to me that you people are gaining more hp with a cooler VE that with all of the mods installed. I think that we sould be concentrating on keep these VE motors cooler. Has anyone here tried installing a aluminum radiator,aftermarket fans, or lower termostat? Does anyone here have any other ideas? After all you can't always race some one with a cold motor, now can you??
Thank
Jason
Thank
Jason
#3
Originally posted by Nismo87SE
Make some phenolic intake manifold spacers and do a throttle body coolant bypass.
Make some phenolic intake manifold spacers and do a throttle body coolant bypass.
#7
Originally posted by flyry110
hey man, i know very little about this, could you explain? thanks
hey man, i know very little about this, could you explain? thanks
If you've still got questions after reading a while, then I'll entertain discussion about it.
#8
Originally posted by Matt93SE
do a search. you'll learn a lot. not JUST on .org either. there's tons of info out there about them.
If you've still got questions after reading a while, then I'll entertain discussion about it.
do a search. you'll learn a lot. not JUST on .org either. there's tons of info out there about them.
If you've still got questions after reading a while, then I'll entertain discussion about it.
#9
What is this thread about? Are you guys searching and coming up with the infamous "heat soak" problem on VEs that has never been fully diagnosed? Whoever came up with that suggestion did not do any research. A lot of the VEs on the board claim to be VERY fast when they first start up and the engine is cold, then very slow and hesitant when it's all warmed up. Thus, someone thought up the 'heat soak' problem when it's only a tuneup issue. My car did it just as bad as anybody elses. I then replaced my water temp sensor, O2 sensor, bumped up my ignition timing, replaced my exhaust studs, and replaced both VTCs with new ones. Problem solved. I adjusted the ignition timing last. After replacing everything, I got my top end power back but rolling lazily away from a light, I could floor it and it wouldnt go anywhere. I bumped up my timing to about 18-20 degrees, and problem solved.
#10
I personally use RedLine water wetter in my coolant. It's supposed to help the coolant stick to surfaces more, hence cooling them more. You guys are free to try it. If you have $30 to spare, there's some stuff called "Below X", where X is a number I don't remember. A friend of mine uses it, he doesn't know if makes the coolant cooler, who knows, but it's pretty expensive. The RedLine is cheaper, you're only supposed to use a little bit, so one bottle lasts a while.
Also, if you want your engine bay to be cooler, you could get some hood vents to let hot air out, I doubt anyone is going to do this though. If you're really fruity, get a hood scoop and let it blast some air in there, you could make it keep the TB cooler and maybe collect 0.87HP out of it. When a cop pulls you over for speeding, you'd look stupid when you say "I have to go fast, cause i need alotta air to go into my cool scoop."
Also, if you want your engine bay to be cooler, you could get some hood vents to let hot air out, I doubt anyone is going to do this though. If you're really fruity, get a hood scoop and let it blast some air in there, you could make it keep the TB cooler and maybe collect 0.87HP out of it. When a cop pulls you over for speeding, you'd look stupid when you say "I have to go fast, cause i need alotta air to go into my cool scoop."
#11
Originally posted by RosenKen
What is this thread about? Are you guys searching and coming up with the infamous "heat soak" problem on VEs that has never been fully diagnosed? Whoever came up with that suggestion did not do any research. A lot of the VEs on the board claim to be VERY fast when they first start up and the engine is cold, then very slow and hesitant when it's all warmed up. Thus, someone thought up the 'heat soak' problem when it's only a tuneup issue. My car did it just as bad as anybody elses. I then replaced my water temp sensor, O2 sensor, bumped up my ignition timing, replaced my exhaust studs, and replaced both VTCs with new ones. Problem solved. I adjusted the ignition timing last. After replacing everything, I got my top end power back but rolling lazily away from a light, I could floor it and it wouldnt go anywhere. I bumped up my timing to about 18-20 degrees, and problem solved.
What is this thread about? Are you guys searching and coming up with the infamous "heat soak" problem on VEs that has never been fully diagnosed? Whoever came up with that suggestion did not do any research. A lot of the VEs on the board claim to be VERY fast when they first start up and the engine is cold, then very slow and hesitant when it's all warmed up. Thus, someone thought up the 'heat soak' problem when it's only a tuneup issue. My car did it just as bad as anybody elses. I then replaced my water temp sensor, O2 sensor, bumped up my ignition timing, replaced my exhaust studs, and replaced both VTCs with new ones. Problem solved. I adjusted the ignition timing last. After replacing everything, I got my top end power back but rolling lazily away from a light, I could floor it and it wouldnt go anywhere. I bumped up my timing to about 18-20 degrees, and problem solved.
#12
Originally posted by RosenKen
What is this thread about? Are you guys searching and coming up with the infamous "heat soak" problem on VEs that has never been fully diagnosed? Whoever came up with that suggestion did not do any research. A lot of the VEs on the board claim to be VERY fast when they first start up and the engine is cold, then very slow and hesitant when it's all warmed up. Thus, someone thought up the 'heat soak' problem when it's only a tuneup issue. My car did it just as bad as anybody elses. I then replaced my water temp sensor, O2 sensor, bumped up my ignition timing, replaced my exhaust studs, and replaced both VTCs with new ones. Problem solved. I adjusted the ignition timing last. After replacing everything, I got my top end power back but rolling lazily away from a light, I could floor it and it wouldnt go anywhere. I bumped up my timing to about 18-20 degrees, and problem solved.
What is this thread about? Are you guys searching and coming up with the infamous "heat soak" problem on VEs that has never been fully diagnosed? Whoever came up with that suggestion did not do any research. A lot of the VEs on the board claim to be VERY fast when they first start up and the engine is cold, then very slow and hesitant when it's all warmed up. Thus, someone thought up the 'heat soak' problem when it's only a tuneup issue. My car did it just as bad as anybody elses. I then replaced my water temp sensor, O2 sensor, bumped up my ignition timing, replaced my exhaust studs, and replaced both VTCs with new ones. Problem solved. I adjusted the ignition timing last. After replacing everything, I got my top end power back but rolling lazily away from a light, I could floor it and it wouldnt go anywhere. I bumped up my timing to about 18-20 degrees, and problem solved.
There is a way to test this but It would require the use of the Consult diagnostic tool.
#13
Originally posted by Mizeree_X
You say that it is a tuneup issue, but then you say yourself that after you replaced everything, that your low-end power is still missing. Only by adjusting your timing beyond stock solved the problem. When my engine gets hot (the most typical situation being me driving fast towards the city then having to slow to 20-30 MPH in city traffic) my low end suffers tremendously, but kicks in hard around 3000RPMS. Thus my car alternates between lugging off the line and then surging forward. One theory to explain that (in my opinion) is that after slowing down from highway driving, the radiator does not have enough cool air running through it to cool the engine and thus heat accumulates in the bay, causing the intake manifold temp to rise. Now, having taken heat transfer, I know that the majority of heat transfer will occur between the metal of the block and the metal of the intake manifold because air is a very poor heat conductor. One way to alleviate this problem is to place an insulator between the two pieces of metal (ie the phenolic bracket). If you think this is nonesense, fine. But don't tell me you have the clear-cut solution. Thanks.
You say that it is a tuneup issue, but then you say yourself that after you replaced everything, that your low-end power is still missing. Only by adjusting your timing beyond stock solved the problem. When my engine gets hot (the most typical situation being me driving fast towards the city then having to slow to 20-30 MPH in city traffic) my low end suffers tremendously, but kicks in hard around 3000RPMS. Thus my car alternates between lugging off the line and then surging forward. One theory to explain that (in my opinion) is that after slowing down from highway driving, the radiator does not have enough cool air running through it to cool the engine and thus heat accumulates in the bay, causing the intake manifold temp to rise. Now, having taken heat transfer, I know that the majority of heat transfer will occur between the metal of the block and the metal of the intake manifold because air is a very poor heat conductor. One way to alleviate this problem is to place an insulator between the two pieces of metal (ie the phenolic bracket). If you think this is nonesense, fine. But don't tell me you have the clear-cut solution. Thanks.
I drive on the highway mostly and my problem would occur after hitting the light after taking the off ramp. I would only be staying ta the light for a minute at most. Around town, stop and go driving, it wouldnt be as bad, but still there.
I only recommended the ignition timing advance because my timing was set BELOW the factory timing specs. Sentra SE-R's had a problem with the timing being set below spec at the factory. Factory spec for the VE manual or auto is 15 degrees +/- 2 degrees BTDC and mine was at around 12-13. I kicked it up to 18-20 and the problem disappeared. You must remember, the VE is a top-end power "cammer" motor and by nature doesnt have much power down low. But now mine has just as much power hot as it does cold. Just chipping in my 2 cents since I have been playing with and researching this problem for over a year now.
#15
Re: Well I picked up the 170 thermostate today
Originally posted by eric93SE
Maybe I'll install it tomorrow morning. I'll repost if the results are good.
btw its a stant thermo and it was $11 at pepboys.
Maybe I'll install it tomorrow morning. I'll repost if the results are good.
btw its a stant thermo and it was $11 at pepboys.
#16
Re: Re: Well I picked up the 170 thermostate today
I had the same problem with my car. It was really fast and powerful on first start up, but after it warmed up it lost a lot of power and was sluggish. Replaced the knock sensor and the problem went away. Turns out a bad knock sensor retards the timing constantly. It doesn't start retarding until the engine is warm and the ecu accepts inputs from knock, O2, etc. (open/closed loop mode I forget which is which).
#17
Re: Re: Re: Well I picked up the 170 thermostate today
Originally posted by GreenMaxVE
I had the same problem with my car. It was really fast and powerful on first start up, but after it warmed up it lost a lot of power and was sluggish. Replaced the knock sensor and the problem went away. Turns out a bad knock sensor retards the timing constantly. It doesn't start retarding until the engine is warm and the ecu accepts inputs from knock, O2, etc. (open/closed loop mode I forget which is which).
I had the same problem with my car. It was really fast and powerful on first start up, but after it warmed up it lost a lot of power and was sluggish. Replaced the knock sensor and the problem went away. Turns out a bad knock sensor retards the timing constantly. It doesn't start retarding until the engine is warm and the ecu accepts inputs from knock, O2, etc. (open/closed loop mode I forget which is which).
(It says to discard any sensor that's been dropped or shocked, btw!)
#18
Re: Re: Re: Re: Well I picked up the 170 thermostate today
BTW, my old knock sensor turned out to be OK. It was the connection that was all corroded. I guess the ecu goes into limp mode if it can't get a signal from the KS. I cleaned the connectors on the old KS and it worked fine, but I put the new one in anyway just to be safe.
#19
just a thought
Originally posted by Bman
What are you hoping to gain with 10 degrees difference? Maybe I'm a pessimist, but I don't see that doing a heck of a lot compared to something like the TB bypass.
What are you hoping to gain with 10 degrees difference? Maybe I'm a pessimist, but I don't see that doing a heck of a lot compared to something like the TB bypass.
#20
Damn....and I was almost there. When I pulled all the injectors, I wanted to get to the knock sensor, but the gasket set for the intake manifold is rediculously expensive (~$70 aftermarket). So I said forget it.
Bman If you check the resistance on the kS you'll see its rediculously high. But I believe the FSM said to just do a continuity test. Although they do not say how high, Corroded terminals will make the reading alot higher than what it should be. The manuel should be better on testing this one.
Anyway, I just put in the 170 Thermostate this morning, and so far she is running great (but it was very good before) so It's tough to tell the gains.
Bman If you check the resistance on the kS you'll see its rediculously high. But I believe the FSM said to just do a continuity test. Although they do not say how high, Corroded terminals will make the reading alot higher than what it should be. The manuel should be better on testing this one.
Anyway, I just put in the 170 Thermostate this morning, and so far she is running great (but it was very good before) so It's tough to tell the gains.
#21
Where has this topic gone??
I was just wondering how to keep a VE cooler, not that I was having any problems. I know that cooler air has more oxygen in it, and my intake manifold is way too hot to touch at normal operating temp.
Jason
I going to do the TB bypass this week.
Jason
I going to do the TB bypass this week.
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