Cincy94Max

Anyone ever heard of this engine? Only $650-750 at http://www.nippon-motors.com/prices.htm which is a highly respected engine sourcer. It lists the engine as a Performance Engine for the Maxima buy my searches for information on this engine have been fruitless. Anyone have any information?

"Nissan Performance Engine VG30-FF(Maxima) 3.0 6 650/750 Dual key way"

maxima_dumby

220 horsey
SOCH

well at least that's what i was told

Cincy94Max

Interesting, very interesting.

maxima_dumby

i wonder
would doing a JDM engine swap be legal thou? How will we ever know if the JDM engine will pass the smog test or not, and by the time we do, we would have already spend at least a grand putting in engine in.

Cincy94Max

My guess would be head and valvetrain work. Plus, the VG motor we are familiar with has like 8.5:1 compression. 10.1 compression along with head and valvetrain work to improve flow and allow a more free revving motor might get the VG in that range. The VG also responds very well to cam changes so a more agressive cam might be in there too. I know http://www.hekimianracing.com/ sells a 300 HP N/A VG, but they also sell a much milder VG that puts out around 225 HP N/A. The VG is a great motor and can be upgraded (most people choose turbo, but N/A is a possibilty also) but very few people see the point in upgrading a 8+ year old engine in a 4000lb family sedan. On the other hand, in a lighter chassis, like the 510, the VG stands out like a champ because of its ample torque and decent horsepower.

Cincy94Max

With an N/A engine, JDM engine swaps should pass a smog test. They will of course fail the visual in Cali and other **** states, but in most states the technicians could care less about the engine in the car. As long as it passes the sniffer and has a cat they don't care. Look at the Honda camp. They import JDM engines all the time and still have about the same emissions. It's engines like the SR20DET, which are turbocharged that don't pass emissions. In general a N/A car will pass emissions unless it is making an absurd amount of horsepower over stock.

DA-MAX

iTrader: (10)

kinda OT, but speaking of 510s heres a nice one I always liked-->

http://www.bryanf.com/mycars/yf/index.htm

mykizism

its all about the emissions system, wheather you choose to use them or not.. just because its a turbo motor doesnt mean it wont pass emission anymore than a Na car would.

Cincy94Max

Very true. But I was trying to make a point that it is usually much easier to make a STOCK JDM engine pass emissions if it is N/A. This is assuming you have a CAT installed in the correct location in the exhaust stream. I have read of very few SR20DET owners who claim to have passed emissions. Some say it can be done, but I believe it involves blowing off almost all of the boost. Hence it almost turns into a N/A engine. In almost all cases, any turbo that did not come stock on a USDM engine will most likely fail emissions unless it is properly tuned or the boost is defeated.

maxima_dumby

I think it's stupid how the US has such **** emission standrads, but then when you go outside you see cars everyday that are rusted to the core and spewing clouds of smoke in all kind of colors. That is usually when i asked myself, if those car can do that why can i have a JDM skyline?????

Cincy94Max

My friend used to have an 80's firebird with the original engine. He took it to the emissions check and one of the numbers on the sniffer test which was supposed to be like 750 was 4000! His dad did some work and got it down to 1500 and they let him pass because it was an old car. To me, having an old car is no excuse for emissions.

DA-MAX

iTrader: (10)

why get it, if you plan to turbo it??? just deal with the original VG. the only way it could make that much more sufficient power would be to raise CR from the original specs(9:1) and more cmpression isn't really good for boost, although there are plenty cars out there runnig 10+ psi boost on 10.5:1 and even 11:1 CR motors!

mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

does anyone know if the engine really does have a higher cr? i was just saying i hope it's not. that would help me get even more horse out of the engine, if i have more to start with.

djslinkyz

well, that's the law. my friend just restored a '64 or '65 or whatever mustang, and he built a 450hp engine to drop in it. and guess how many emissions control devices he's got... yeah, none. why? because it didn't have any back in '60-whatever. somethin he's been bragging about a lot.. haha. and he's going to have it all done by prom. i can't wait..

now wouldn't it suck for you if they made emissions even stricter than they are now, and since the age of the car doesn't matter, you would have to pay to get your car within specs?

Shadow1198

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know anything else about this engine? I've been looking for the Japanese version for quite a long time. It ****es me off because I think I looked at Nippon Motors before, and I must have just passed by that engine. I just can't believe its only $650-$750 and puts out 220hp. I mean its not unbelievable or anything but, that's a cheap price for such a great increase in power/performance. I just got my tax return too so I think I will order one immediately! I need to find out more from them first though.

Cincy94Max

Your best bet would be to call around. First call Nippon and ask about the specs on the engine. Then I would call Nissan and see if you can't get some info from them. Nissan may be a long shot, but what's an hour or two on the phone to see if you are getting what you want? I might also call Jim Wolf Technologies. If these people can't help you, then I'm not sure what to do. Ask them if they know where you could get the info and go from there. Some things just aren't accesible on the internet and require a couple phone calls.

mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

i just e-mailed nippon and they said the performance listing was incorrect and that the engine is a regular maxima engine and that the FF mean fuel injected front wheel drive... i guess we're just back to turboing and such.

matt1sd

Cincy94Max

Oh well. That pretty much confirms my decision to buy a 1992 Honda Civic HB and drop in a Type R motor and forget all about Nissan V6 engines.

Shadow1198

iTrader: (1)

Bastards! I had the money and was about to buy that engine in a few days. Though, what is Maxima_Dumby talking about 220hp sohc??? Is there some other motor not many of us know about or something? Whats the 220hp thing? I'm beginning to get confused. I thought I knew a good amount about Datsun/Nissan engines but, I've never heard of any stock factory perf. engine for Maximas. Damn Nissan. I love 'em but, who in here wouldn't have loved a factory 3.2l 24v dohc 230hp engine option. Oh well. Just when I thought I could get some great power cheap. Now its back to deciding between all engine or vg30et for me, and its not going to be cheap.

mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

at least you were informed about it before you went and spent 750 on an engine you already have. that is crap though, and that one engine that was being talked about on here that pulls 300 hp is $9000!!!! that's more than our cars would ever be worth.

nismo1989

For $4000 you can be pushing 220 to the ground check it out: http://www.hekimianracing.com/

It's not on thier site but if you contact them and ask them about it they will send you the info...

Shadow1198

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I've already had extensive discussions with Greg Hekimian. Are you sure it is 220hp at the wheels? I guess I am so used to crank HP that I didn't even think about that. Damn, I think I will consider his $4k engine. 220fwhp is something like 250-260hp at the crank, if I'm not mistaken. For $4k, 260hp is a great deal but I always disregarded that engine since I was thinking 220hp crank, which isn't the best for your money.

nismo1989

Yeah, 40-60% drivetrain loss is expected. Just look at the so-called 175hp SE-R spec V
Fun car to drive but not has powerful as they (Nissan) lead on...

DA-MAX

iTrader: (10)

makes mid 140's low 150s at wheels....its faster than both the VGs, auto VE and even some auto VQs!

Cincy94Max

Ummmmmm.......NO. 15% drivetrain loss is around normal for a 5-speed. Automatics are around 20-25%. AWD cars have around 20%. As for the Sentra, it is making the power it should. If you take a Sentra off the lot and go dyno test it, it will not perform up to spec, but if you follow the break in schedule and then dyno it you will get the specs you want. One Sentra SE-R Spec V owner followed the break in schedule and dynoed with 5,000 on his car. I forget the exact HP, but he calculated it to be only 16% drivetrain loss, which is completely acceptable.

mykizism

what the heck are you guys talking about, why would u even want an all motor car, all motor is slow

boost all the way baby

DA-MAX

iTrader: (10)

not necesarily true!!! depends on what type of all motor car you build and how much you build it up....

nismo1989

Relax. I'm not slamming the spec V. If I had money to get a new car I would get one, believe me. But no one is getting 175hp out of one stock regardless of how they break it in or whatever. And besides, your not going to see more than a 5 hp gain after breaking it in anyway, so who cares? And I never said the drivetrain loss on the Spec V was unacceptable, I said the hp claim was unacceptable. I will stick by that until I see otherwise has every publication that has dynoed one has come up with 140-150hp. Yeah, that's not near 40% and I was pretty wrong when I threw that number out there, but there's no disclaimer in manufacturer's ads stating that thier numbers are hp at the crank. I think I read somewhere where one of the big publications was told by Nissan that the spec V would create those numbers at the wheels, and when they brake dynoed it they came up with 142hp or something and Nissan took the car, tweaked it, and gave them another and even another and they never broke 150hp (pre-production). Did anyone else read that and remember where?

mykizism

haha i know , But boost all the way baby!!!

nismo1989

I say: What's the point in investing all of that time and money into a great turbo when the rest of your engine is just okay, or worst, just dumpy??? When I hit 250K miles I think I might go with the $4K VG...

mykizism

number one when u boost ur car, u think and plan about it.. u just dont take a junk engine or an engine thats not in good condtion and boost it..

u think plan, replace/rebuild what ever is needed, upgrade the injectors fuel system

i never said just take ur engine as it is right now and just throw on a turbo..

and i wouldnt pay 4k for better prepped/high compression VG

nismo1989

IMO a 220hp NA VG engine sounds better than a 200hp turbo VG engine. NA is more reliable hp. You could get a lot more hp out of a turbo than that but your either gonna spend 5K on a turbo or replace it in a year after it's broken anyway. I think SkyMax said he's been through several...
Turbo is cool and all and sounds neat but I personally wouldn't rule out going for a more powerful NA motor first, maybe to build on or whatever. That's just my opinion. Seems to me like no matter what you do to get a 200K mi motor ready for a turbo, it's still gonna break anyway. Boost all the way, but not on my engine. It runs great but after a turbo I know it wouldn't last.

Shadow1198

iTrader: (1)

I'd also love to have a turbo but, Nismo1989 is right. NA is definitely more reliable. Also, take a n/a vg and vg w/ a turbo. Now, say they both have the exact same horsepower, about 200fwhp. With both having the same HP, the n/a will still be faster. Personally, I'd love to do a vg30et swap but, at this point I don't think I'm ready for all the custom modding I'd need to do. Also, as far as building up an n/a engine, I already have everything planned out for that so I have 90% of the details worked out for what I want to build. Also, I think that Hekimian engine (220hp) is cryo-treated. If it is, $4k for a cryo-treated performance engine is a great deal. Vg's are already pretty bulletproof if you take care of them. Though, with cryogenics that kind of turns them into a beast that can take a beating and keep going. You could push your car harder and longer and not see as much stress on the engine as you normally would. Wish me luck guys, I'm about to go race some friends on a secluded road today. One of my friends has a '91 240sx dohc 5spd and is always talking crap about my car. Off the line he would have me but I can absolutely RAPE his car on topend, and I just have a VG. I'd love to see a VE put him in his place! Once I raced him from a rolling start (about 50mph). Well, I immediately pulled 1 car length and just kept going. Eventually I got something like 15-20 car lengths, and he just couldn't catch up. Must of not shifted right.

nismo1989

Be careful, street racing is dangerous and illegal!
*end disclaimer *

and yeah I'm pretty sure it's cryo treated. I tell ya what, I think it's well worth the money if you're in the market for an engine anyway and performance is your thang...

Dummy

the vg-t may only produce 200-210 to the crank but with exhaust, intake and boost controller you are running low 14's, way more than i can say for an NA vg, only reason turboing the maxima vg wouldnt be reliable is it isnt built for it, look how many z31's are still around...pretty reliable if you ask me.

DA-MAX

iTrader: (10)

look at how many turbo cars are running 10+ psi using 9:1 CR....hmmmm the VG Maxima has 9:1 CR...so wanna rephrase this???--> "maxima VG...wouldn't be reliable...it isn't built for boost"

SkyMax

You better hope your intercooled with boost over double digits.. will help keep the temp. down.

DA-MAX

iTrader: (10)

SHOW ME THOSE PICS MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Nismo87SE

I'm going to call BS. Given the same peak power there is no way in hell a NA VG could compete with a turbo VG. For comparisions sake lets say both have 170rwhp (I've seen dynos from both). Now from 3000-5000rpm the VG-T has about 20-50rwtq more average than a NA VG. Assuming they did a 2nd gear roll at 40mph, the NA might get a slight jump until the turbo spools. Once the boost gets to max the turbo pulls the NA immediatly in 2nd gear and puts 1-2 cars in 3rd and walks it hard in 4th. Bottomend work won't increase power it just helps sustaining that power. Now it is possible to get around 200hp @ the flywheel or 170whp from a VG. All it takes is compression increase, headwork + cams. But I figure if your going to do that just build a VG33E, more torque/power with same mods.