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Old 04-23-2002, 05:45 AM
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jcwithney rotors

jc withney is selling max rotors real cheap. Has anyone ever use their rotors? I am not really into racing otherwise i would spend more money for a high performance one. Plus when your in college, money is tight.
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Old 04-23-2002, 09:48 AM
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Re: jcwithney rotors

Originally posted by phat
jc withney is selling max rotors real cheap. Has anyone ever use their rotors? I am not really into racing otherwise i would spend more money for a high performance one. Plus when your in college, money is tight.
are they dirlled?... or slotted?,or just reg. flat rotors?
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Old 04-23-2002, 10:07 AM
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They are actually very good quality. I bought them for my moms van. They are just the plain ones, and at a low price. I'd buy them for my max, since I dont autox I dont see the need to waste money on slotted and crossed drilled.
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Old 04-24-2002, 08:20 AM
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Re: jcwithney rotors

Originally posted by phat
jc withney is selling max rotors real cheap. Has anyone ever use their rotors? I am not really into racing otherwise i would spend more money for a high performance one. Plus when your in college, money is tight.
I have a set on my Max powerstop or something i think they are called. I have them matched up with EBC Greens. The stopping is great. However I notice it is taking a long time for the break pads to wear in.
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Old 04-24-2002, 02:28 PM
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I just thought I'd mention that its also a good idea to put in fresh break fluid. I ordered mine from bimmerworld.com b/c they carry the best dot4 fluid available. it's called ATE TYP 200 or ATE RACING BLUE, they are actually the same only the color is different (ones amber/gold and the other is blue). They have the [edit whoops]highest wet boiling point that you can get out there.
Anyway I wanted to mention the difference i saw, a couple weeks ago i was breaking mildly and felt like apply the hand brake, but just two clicks, damn I heard the rear tires chirp/lock but just for a split second b/c I reacted to it and eased the brake peddle. I was never able to do that before.
Braking performance is affected by the hydroscopic (easily absobing water) brake fluid which then lowers its boiling point drastically and then when we jam on the brakes and little or nothing happens is b/c of vapor lock (intense heat created on the brake calipers when braking hard and then heats the fluid causing it to actually boil),

Whatever right !?
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