Hello again. With all the research I've done here and help of you guys, I went ahead and bought all the tools I need for the crank seal and CV boot change.

I took my time to do the front crank seal and it wasn't too bad. Got it done in 2.5 hrs including cleaning engine with degreaser. Then I started to do the left inner CV which gave me trouble one after another. After 4 hrs of work, I'm still can't complete the job.

First, I have the wheel off and the lower arm ball joint off. I can actually work around with it to get my axle out. I did not disconnect the two bolts that connect to the strut. I'm afraid that it may change the alignment. This part was not too difficult.

When I disassemble the inner boot, everything was a challenge. I finally managed to get the boot replaced. When I was going to put it back, I get stuck:-

The axle can't get all the way back in. I know the problem is the round clip at the end of the axle that goes into the the tranny. I yanked the clip out and slide the axle, I can get it all the way in. When I put the clip back, I just can't seem to force compress the clip to the seat inside. I still have about 1/3" before the axle sits all the way in. I tried to use a rubber head hammer but still can't get it in (I had hitted my hand one time with this hammer).

Can anyone suggest me a way to put the axle back in correctly?

Thanks. - AC

 

ok do this...
get some grease/or tranny fluid on the spline of the axle. don't go overboard..just get some on there.
now you can line up to the tranny...1st slowly wiggle the axle in and you'll feel it stop at the clip. now brace yourself and hold the axle shaft and give it a good push. you'll feel it past the clip and go in. if it went in but not all the way..get a small wood block and hammer and tap the wheel end of the axle and bump it in.
good luck...it's very frustrating..but once it's in you'll feel a lot better.

 

on the part of the passenger axle that has the three bolts, can the axle move a little bit in that thing? i had the same problem and i couldn't get the thing in and tried bolt that thing on to use pressure from the bolts to pop it in all of the way but those just bolted all of the way on without pushing the axel at all

 

grease the carrier bearing races/sleeves/metal part that goes together around the carrier bearing.
that should help it go in. no clip on that side so it should go right in.

 

Thanks for the input I spent another 2 hrs today and finally put everything back together. Yesterday, I thought my axle was not all the way in. Actually, I was too tired and the sky was so dark so I used my finger to "feel" if the axle was completely in. Today, I got underneath and saw the axle was actually all the way in. The end goes into the tranny was tapered so I thought the axle was not completely in.

I have one minor issue - ABS light come on during test drive. I might have dirts on the ABS sensor. I've not yet to check the code on the ABS control unit (too much work for the weekend, just need rest now). At least, the entire bottom of the engine is still perfectly dry after the test drive.

OK....so I put a total of 6 hrs on the inner CV boot replacement - saved $160. 2.5 hrs on the front crank seal - saved $190 (dealer quoted price). In return, I hitted my left hand with a rubber head hammer and had cutted my hands in three different places. And every joint in my body is so soar . I think I'm not going to do it again. BTW, I found out my right CV boot started to have some cracks (not break open yet) when I change the front crank seal .................................................. .......

-AC

 

congrats

 

Now, in three months, you actually get to change the CV joint...

 

I'll let someone else work on the right side this time. It will soon be broken but at least it's not at this time.

 

You've already done the more difficult of the 2. Keep your money in your pocket. I did mine and I'm not a grease monkey.

 

Is it really? I came across posting on this board saying forget about the right axle!

 

As for doing this job, or a similar job again, or not - here's my take:

By doing this, you've gained confidence, skill, and practice that may serve you even better sometime in the future. The next job you tackle may save you even more money, and hopefully you picked up some skills/techniques/nuances of car repair that will serve you - skills that, if you didn't have them, might make the difference between doing it yourself and being FORCED to have a shop do it (at whatever price they wanna charge you)

BTW - you HIT your hand, not hitted it, and your joints are SORE, not soar...

Just re-read the thread - on the right boot, you'll save the same money yet take way less time on the job, because you DID learn a lesson from those time-consuming mistakes, right?

Good Luck,

Kirk

 

You're right. I've gained confidence. I think for the right side, I'll go for a re-man axle.

Thanks for pointing out my english mistakes. This is my 2nd language and I haven't been using it daily until a few years ago. I hope I start with it when I was a kid.

-AC