o2 sensor
#1
alright. at a stoplight my car will have a really bouncy idle and about 500 to 750 rpm's then it will hesitate. and every now and then when i accelerate when its doing this i hear a clunking type popping noise. also a major loss of power below 3000 rpm's when it is doing this. is this the o2 sensor. i know the clunking isnt but the hesitation and power loss?
#2
gotta love the weekly O2 sensor questions..
unplug it..then drive it..does it get better or worst or no change?
better (someone else is broken)
worst (O2 is OK)
same (get a new O2 this one is dead)
also run ECU check..
Not to sound mean..do a search on this one..i've answered many many of these questions.
Dan
unplug it..then drive it..does it get better or worst or no change?
better (someone else is broken)
worst (O2 is OK)
same (get a new O2 this one is dead)
also run ECU check..
Not to sound mean..do a search on this one..i've answered many many of these questions.
Dan
Originally posted by block
alright. at a stoplight my car will have a really bouncy idle and about 500 to 750 rpm's then it will hesitate. and every now and then when i accelerate when its doing this i hear a clunking type popping noise. also a major loss of power below 3000 rpm's when it is doing this. is this the o2 sensor. i know the clunking isnt but the hesitation and power loss?
alright. at a stoplight my car will have a really bouncy idle and about 500 to 750 rpm's then it will hesitate. and every now and then when i accelerate when its doing this i hear a clunking type popping noise. also a major loss of power below 3000 rpm's when it is doing this. is this the o2 sensor. i know the clunking isnt but the hesitation and power loss?
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by block
alright. at a stoplight my car will have a really bouncy idle and about 500 to 750 rpm's then it will hesitate. and every now and then when i accelerate when its doing this i hear a clunking type popping noise. also a major loss of power below 3000 rpm's when it is doing this. is this the o2 sensor. i know the clunking isnt but the hesitation and power loss?
alright. at a stoplight my car will have a really bouncy idle and about 500 to 750 rpm's then it will hesitate. and every now and then when i accelerate when its doing this i hear a clunking type popping noise. also a major loss of power below 3000 rpm's when it is doing this. is this the o2 sensor. i know the clunking isnt but the hesitation and power loss?
#5
from what i know you can get them for around 100 from courtesy nissan. and a couple plugs to put it in. its located under the car near the exhaust i think. I am starting to think mine is something else besides the sensor. possibly an injector. its so frickin cold hear i dont want to work on my car. -30 windchill.
#8
that's pretty typical for city driving and limited highway use..
when I set out on long highway trips, I will get 400+/tank, but unless I drive straight through, I'll only get 300-375/tank even on highway.
when I set out on long highway trips, I will get 400+/tank, but unless I drive straight through, I'll only get 300-375/tank even on highway.
#9
I don't want to sound like a pesimist, but if its not the o2 sensor it might be your ingectors, check to see what they are running at, if its around 25 ohms its ok. I had this problem about two weeks ago, and I had two bad injectors.
#10
O2 sensor is about $105 from courtesy.
install is simple.
1. crawl under the car with a big wrench,
2. unplug the old sensor (it's the spark plug lookin thing hanging from your exhaust)
3. unscrew the old sensor
4. screw in new sensor
5. connect plug to car
6. crawl out from under car
tough stuff, huh?
install is simple.
1. crawl under the car with a big wrench,
2. unplug the old sensor (it's the spark plug lookin thing hanging from your exhaust)
3. unscrew the old sensor
4. screw in new sensor
5. connect plug to car
6. crawl out from under car
tough stuff, huh?
#12
Try something different.
First thing to think of with bad mileage and rough running engine is too much fuel. This could be sticking fuel injectors, so the cheap easy thing to try is put one or two cans of fuel injector cleaner with a half tank of gas. I run the concentration much higher than one can per tank if trying to dissolve a problem.
No luck: How about the fuel pressure regulator? On acceleration the dropping vacuum causes this device to increase the fuel pressure and thus fulfill the function accelerator pumps used to do in carburetors (remember those). If it is malfunctioning, it could keep the fuel pressure high all the time easily explaining rough running and poor mileage.
If not: Does the car run OK when cold? To facilitate cold running enrichment there is a temperature sensitive "Plug" that lets extra fuel pass when the engine is cold acting as the choke of yore. Therefore, check that if the car runs ok when cold, but rough once warmed up.
Good luck,
John
No luck: How about the fuel pressure regulator? On acceleration the dropping vacuum causes this device to increase the fuel pressure and thus fulfill the function accelerator pumps used to do in carburetors (remember those). If it is malfunctioning, it could keep the fuel pressure high all the time easily explaining rough running and poor mileage.
If not: Does the car run OK when cold? To facilitate cold running enrichment there is a temperature sensitive "Plug" that lets extra fuel pass when the engine is cold acting as the choke of yore. Therefore, check that if the car runs ok when cold, but rough once warmed up.
Good luck,
John
#13
Guest
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Call around about the 02 sensor..if u can find it cheaper go for it..because Bosch makes em all and owns the patent...so it comes down to how much u want to pay hehe.
A sure way to test the 02 is to get a voltmeter and test voltage at the white wire at the 02 to chassis ground. If the voltage stays the same, its stuck(a.k.a. dead). It should fluxuate(sp?) between .1 and 1 according to the data i found.
As expensive as these things are, i made sure mine was dead
A sure way to test the 02 is to get a voltmeter and test voltage at the white wire at the 02 to chassis ground. If the voltage stays the same, its stuck(a.k.a. dead). It should fluxuate(sp?) between .1 and 1 according to the data i found.
As expensive as these things are, i made sure mine was dead
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
02 sensor is screwed into the Y-pipe right before the catalytic converter. You have to trace the connector back towards the motor, and unclip the connector from the engine crossmember. If you have a sharp probe of some kind on your voltmeter, stick it in the back of the connector w/o disconnecting it, and ground the ground lead on the voltmeter to the frame/motor/something metal.
If you cant get any signal by sticking the probe in the connector from the back,you may have to skin the wire some(not cut..just shave some covering off of it) and test it like that. thats what i did, and taped it back up good afterwards.
If you cant get any signal by sticking the probe in the connector from the back,you may have to skin the wire some(not cut..just shave some covering off of it) and test it like that. thats what i did, and taped it back up good afterwards.
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hmm...if it should eventually warm up. If not, your thermostat is stuck open not letting any water get hot.
New 02 sensor shouldnt effect this![Wink](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
If u drive it a while it should warm up pretty quickly..mine does in about 5 minutes(its about 30 degrees in the mornings here)
New 02 sensor shouldnt effect this
![Wink](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
If u drive it a while it should warm up pretty quickly..mine does in about 5 minutes(its about 30 degrees in the mornings here)
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