Sometimes when i try to start my car it doesnt actually start until second or third time. and the engine sounds like its barely turning over. My battery is just fine, because i just got one. Could it be my starter? but then it starts like this maybe once out of every 20-30 times. the oil red warning light also flashes for some reason when the engine is trying to turn over. Does anybody at all have any idea what this can be? my mechanic is completely confused...please help.

 

it sounds like that ... however im not experienced
i have the same problem wut i do is .. i turn the ignition all the way to accessory i leave it there for 15 secs then i start the car.
what this does is, it starts sending fuel and it builds the pressure so wehn u start it u can alot goin at once
try it gluck .

 

my fuel filter and pcv valve were just replaced so it beats me what it could be.

 

You are reporting an intermittend slow-crank problem.

Consider ...

- loose or dirty battery terminal connections
- loose or dirty battery-to-engine block connection
- bad solenoid
- bad starter

The starter is an expensive item so I would check the other items before spending the money on a replacement. However, my guess is the real problem lies with the starter. Remanufactured units are available for $140 (Brand X) up to $360 (Bosch). The labor charge ought to be one hour. This is a job which can be done by the home mechanic. No need to jack the car, the starter motor is accessed from above.

In https://maxima.org/forums/showthread...threadid=12965 rocket_slave mentioned rehabilitating his '95 Maxima starter with a new set of brushes ($15). Many shops don't want to bother with repairing a sick starter. If you like to do your own "wrenching" this is worth investigating.

 

if the starter is bad why this happens only once so often and not every time? what solenoid and how much is it.

 

Bought my 95 Max when it was warm and it started fine. Now in the cold weather it will start on the 2nd or 3rd try every now and then. I still can't figure out the problem. I've noticed lots of posts about this problem.

 

The very same thing happened to my '95. The problem will become worse and worse over time. Eventually, it will only start about 50% of the time. It's the starter. Go ahead and get it replaced.

scott

 

Strange.. after reading a post like this, my Max didn't start until the third time I turned the key last week. It was embarrasing though because people were like "you have a new car."

 

The starter motor has a segmented commutator. As the motor turns, the brushes contact each segment in turn. As the motor ages some segments may become more pitted or more dirty than others. Each time you crank the engine the starter motor ends up with a different segment touching the brushes. Sometimes that segment is a clean one and the next start goes well. Sometimes that segment is a dirty pitted one, and the next start will be difficult.

The starter solenoid is mounted on top of the starter motor. It can be replaced as a separate item, although a new starter comes with a new solenoid. The starter solenoid serves two purposes.
1) It is a high-current relay. When you twist the ignition key to START a low current signal goes to the solenoid. When the solenoid is actuated it completes a high current circuit from the battery to the starter motor.
2) It is an actuator which slides the starter drive gear toward the engine and into mesh with the flywheel ring gear.

I don't know the price. Check with your local friendly Nissan dealer or auto parts store.

 

so should i try changing the solenoid before i get a new starter? or is it probably not going to make a difference getting a solenoid and im better off swapping the starter?

 

Try working on the solenoid if you do your own "wrenching" and don't mind taking a gamble on removing the starter twice.

I'll add an element to the "bad commutator" idea expressed in an earlier post. This information is based on personal experience with GM starter solenoids, but I believe the Nissan solenoid is similar. The high current relay function of the solenoid is achieved by means of a large conductive disk which presses against two large conductive "button" terminals. That disk is made in a way which allows it to rotate freely. The idea is that the pitting and erosion which occurs as a part of normal usage can be distributed around the periphery of the disk, and thereby extending its service life. Once in a while that disk chances to be positioned such that a damaged portion lines up with one or both buttons. When the starter is actuated there is a high resistance through the disk and you get slow cranking.

There are two options for you to consider.
1) Replace the solenoid.
2) Disassemble the solenoid, remove the disk and both buttons, clean them with a wire brush and/or emery cloth. I have done this on GM starters with good results. I love this kind of "zero dollar repair" but have to admit it does take time and patience. This route is not the right choice for everyone.