Brake Conversion question
Originally posted by 97BLKMAXSE
i would get slotted rotors not cross drilled slotted just slotted with cross drilled they can warp eaiser and some Porterfield R4S pads i think thats a good combination
97BLKMAXSE
i would get slotted rotors not cross drilled slotted just slotted with cross drilled they can warp eaiser and some Porterfield R4S pads i think thats a good combination
97BLKMAXSE
What kind of rotors for the pads? How much is a Rotor/Caliper set gonna be for all four corners? Or should I jsut get the factory stuff replaced?
Originally posted by Kashoggio
go with some good ol 300z brakes up front
go with some good ol 300z brakes up front
Originally posted by KMax2988
I agree. I just put a 3Z setup on my car and DAMN! Awesome braking power all for about $550 shipped (www.heavythrottle.com). GO FOR IT!
I agree. I just put a 3Z setup on my car and DAMN! Awesome braking power all for about $550 shipped (www.heavythrottle.com). GO FOR IT!
-Jon
Originally posted by tmkforever
I think I'm going to do this mod sometime in the future...it seems so worth it. Do the 300ZX brakes just bolt right on? How easy is the install?
-Jon
I think I'm going to do this mod sometime in the future...it seems so worth it. Do the 300ZX brakes just bolt right on? How easy is the install?
-Jon
I have the Stillen/APs expensive but I am SO happy with my brakes.. for a real upgrade do the Wilwood or the Fastbrakes kit.. more expensive but a alot nicer package
if you get big brakes... make sure your rims will fit over them... chances are they wont
Originally posted by carnal_c30
install is not so easy ya have to shave the rotors a few mm and also a few mm off the bottom of the steering knuckle I think
I have the Stillen/APs expensive but I am SO happy with my brakes.. for a real upgrade do the Wilwood or the Fastbrakes kit.. more expensive but a alot nicer package
if you get big brakes... make sure your rims will fit over them... chances are they wont
install is not so easy ya have to shave the rotors a few mm and also a few mm off the bottom of the steering knuckle I think
I have the Stillen/APs expensive but I am SO happy with my brakes.. for a real upgrade do the Wilwood or the Fastbrakes kit.. more expensive but a alot nicer package
if you get big brakes... make sure your rims will fit over them... chances are they wont
-Jon
well the 300ZX brake upgrade is not a really a kit like the fastbraks,AP Racing or Wilwood kit... the brakes were designed for the 300ZX so it isnt exactly bolt on and you have to shave part of it so it fits on the Maxima...
and with wheels you need atleast 17x8 with an offset of 40mm or less basically.. you might find rims that fit and others that dont... spoke design is important- lips usually mean trouble and it wll hinder caliper clearence
I have 18x8 'Momo' Sports with a 35mm offset they clear my brakes easily because of the spoke design, width, size, and offset
I also have a set of Blitz Technospeed Z1s 19x8.5 witha 42mm offset and like a 2 inch lip... I need 5mm spacers to clear the brakes on those even though they are 8.5 inches wide...
search on the org alot of people have discussed this before...
and with wheels you need atleast 17x8 with an offset of 40mm or less basically.. you might find rims that fit and others that dont... spoke design is important- lips usually mean trouble and it wll hinder caliper clearence
I have 18x8 'Momo' Sports with a 35mm offset they clear my brakes easily because of the spoke design, width, size, and offset
I also have a set of Blitz Technospeed Z1s 19x8.5 witha 42mm offset and like a 2 inch lip... I need 5mm spacers to clear the brakes on those even though they are 8.5 inches wide...
search on the org alot of people have discussed this before...
Re: Brake Conversion question
Originally posted by liquidfire3001
I need new rotors and new pads, would it be worth it to go w/ after market rotors over stock and the same w/ the pads, or should I stay stock and save for rims?
I need new rotors and new pads, would it be worth it to go w/ after market rotors over stock and the same w/ the pads, or should I stay stock and save for rims?
Unless your rotors are warped, save your money... slotting/drilling is mostly for looks. Emergency stops will dramatically shorten with good pads alone...
grinding/shaving
Okay, here's the deal with the shaving and grinding (assuming the calipers fit behind your rims):
-Mill down the radius of the rotors by 3mm so that the calipers will fit over them (otherwise the inside edges of the calipers dig into the rotor and it won't spin)
-Grind down the edge of the lower control arms so that they don't dig into your rotors (the 300ZX rotors are thicker than the maxima rotors, so when the weight is put on the car and the control arm comes through the bottom of the dust shield a little bit, it digs into the 300ZX rotors).
-Don't cut off the dust shield, all you have to do is get a hammer and chisel (or some nice impact tools) and bend the shield back.
There are a few other things you have to do to make sure this works, and believe it or not you don't have to use the 300ZX stainless steel lines, you can use the same banjo bolt from the maxima calipers, just with some thicker crush washers.
I personally have Konig Tantrums and the calipers have plenty of clearance.
-Mill down the radius of the rotors by 3mm so that the calipers will fit over them (otherwise the inside edges of the calipers dig into the rotor and it won't spin)
-Grind down the edge of the lower control arms so that they don't dig into your rotors (the 300ZX rotors are thicker than the maxima rotors, so when the weight is put on the car and the control arm comes through the bottom of the dust shield a little bit, it digs into the 300ZX rotors).
-Don't cut off the dust shield, all you have to do is get a hammer and chisel (or some nice impact tools) and bend the shield back.
There are a few other things you have to do to make sure this works, and believe it or not you don't have to use the 300ZX stainless steel lines, you can use the same banjo bolt from the maxima calipers, just with some thicker crush washers.
I personally have Konig Tantrums and the calipers have plenty of clearance.
Originally posted by carnal_c30
install is not so easy ya have to shave the rotors a few mm and also a few mm off the bottom of the steering knuckle I think
I have the Stillen/APs expensive but I am SO happy with my brakes.. for a real upgrade do the Wilwood or the Fastbrakes kit.. more expensive but a alot nicer package
if you get big brakes... make sure your rims will fit over them... chances are they wont
install is not so easy ya have to shave the rotors a few mm and also a few mm off the bottom of the steering knuckle I think
I have the Stillen/APs expensive but I am SO happy with my brakes.. for a real upgrade do the Wilwood or the Fastbrakes kit.. more expensive but a alot nicer package
if you get big brakes... make sure your rims will fit over them... chances are they wont
!
Originally posted by KMax2988
Actually, you only have to shave down the radius of the rotor by 3mm and remove the dust cover. That's all I did and they work great
!
Actually, you only have to shave down the radius of the rotor by 3mm and remove the dust cover. That's all I did and they work great
!
I have the APs so i dont have the 3Zs but alot of the Max guys I know have the 3z upgrade thats what they told me! you know better than i do
Originally posted by liquidfire3001
What front clip do you ahve on your maxima I really Like it do they make it for 95 Se's?
What front clip do you ahve on your maxima I really Like it do they make it for 95 Se's?
if you replce your rotors you dont have to replace the calipers as well thats very expensive!
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