I am OFFICALLY 5 SPEED, HOLY DOOKIE!!!! (a little long)
07-22-2002, 11:15 PM
#1
I am OFFICALLY 5 SPEED, HOLY DOOKIE!!!! (a little long)
*says this emotionally*
after 4 months, 4 LONG LONG LONG months of researching, analyzing and waiting, my 95 MAXIMA GLE is now a 5 speed!!! There is too much to say and not enough time. First off, everything runs perfectly. My homie skeelo did the job (located in Queens, NY) and besides a few SMALL things he'll take care of later due to time, the car is better than ever.
MY ONLY PROBLEM: ACT pressure plate is stiff as a b!tch! I'm so used tot he soft clutch of corolla's, honda's and skeelo's max, this dookie will give me a great calf work out
but it meets so well i won't change it.
The shifter is not high at all. I expected it to be a lot worst but its perfect the way it is to me. HOWEVER, shifting is a little long but nothing bad for daily driving, i just know i'll have a little trouble when racing if i don't get used to it.
What else to say...i'm out of words, i'm just happy i'm finally in the family. I hit 1 and 9 home and even with my auto transmission in the back along with other parts and my friend in the passanger seat, my car was flying faster than ever!
my car used to shake, it doesn't shake anymore, one of my axles that were going sour were replaced due to conversion and the car has a nice idle again.
One thing i did see though was that my car can start without me holding the clutch down, but when i do so it sounds real bad like its fighting to start....
i don't know what else to say...to all that want to do conversion and have doubts, please post whatever here and ask me questions, i'll be able to output more with questions...my only advice is that you get a ACT clutch but nissan pressure plate unless you don't care about stiffness, you'll catch better with ACT pressure plate but if you are used to other stick cars, this will be totally different for you.
*****MY ONLY QUESTION*****
I am going to buy 95 SE 5 speed FED spec 9/94-11/94 prod date (mine is 9/94) ECU and i need to know how to take out my old one and install this one. That should take care of my engine light according to most people on the org.
AM I HAPPY with my new car???
HECK YES!!!!
after 4 months, 4 LONG LONG LONG months of researching, analyzing and waiting, my 95 MAXIMA GLE is now a 5 speed!!! There is too much to say and not enough time. First off, everything runs perfectly. My homie skeelo did the job (located in Queens, NY) and besides a few SMALL things he'll take care of later due to time, the car is better than ever.
MY ONLY PROBLEM: ACT pressure plate is stiff as a b!tch! I'm so used tot he soft clutch of corolla's, honda's and skeelo's max, this dookie will give me a great calf work out
but it meets so well i won't change it.The shifter is not high at all. I expected it to be a lot worst but its perfect the way it is to me. HOWEVER, shifting is a little long but nothing bad for daily driving, i just know i'll have a little trouble when racing if i don't get used to it.
What else to say...i'm out of words, i'm just happy i'm finally in the family. I hit 1 and 9 home and even with my auto transmission in the back along with other parts and my friend in the passanger seat, my car was flying faster than ever!
my car used to shake, it doesn't shake anymore, one of my axles that were going sour were replaced due to conversion and the car has a nice idle again.
One thing i did see though was that my car can start without me holding the clutch down, but when i do so it sounds real bad like its fighting to start....
i don't know what else to say...to all that want to do conversion and have doubts, please post whatever here and ask me questions, i'll be able to output more with questions...my only advice is that you get a ACT clutch but nissan pressure plate unless you don't care about stiffness, you'll catch better with ACT pressure plate but if you are used to other stick cars, this will be totally different for you.
*****MY ONLY QUESTION*****
I am going to buy 95 SE 5 speed FED spec 9/94-11/94 prod date (mine is 9/94) ECU and i need to know how to take out my old one and install this one. That should take care of my engine light according to most people on the org.
AM I HAPPY with my new car???
HECK YES!!!!
07-22-2002, 11:22 PM
#3
Originally posted by Nealoc187
Its a 5-10 minute job to switch ECUs.
Its a 5-10 minute job to switch ECUs.
07-22-2002, 11:49 PM
#5
Got any extra parts? I'm missing the connector piece between the shaft on the tranny and the shifting rod, and you can't buy the piece seperate, you have to buy the whole rod from nissan... 
07-23-2002, 12:51 AM
#7
Originally posted by mtrai760
Got any extra parts? I'm missing the connector piece between the shaft on the tranny and the shifting rod, and you can't buy the piece seperate, you have to buy the whole rod from nissan...
Got any extra parts? I'm missing the connector piece between the shaft on the tranny and the shifting rod, and you can't buy the piece seperate, you have to buy the whole rod from nissan...
got a shifter also and some other parts...let me know what the deal is
07-23-2002, 05:10 AM
#9
Originally posted by meccanoble
almost forgot, my reverse lights don't work...how do i fix that?
and is there ANY way to make that clutch less stiff?
almost forgot, my reverse lights don't work...how do i fix that?
and is there ANY way to make that clutch less stiff?
If you got your haynes manual look at the wiring diagrams for the auto and the 5 speed... Find the 2 wires that go to the reverse lights on the auto and splice them to the ones on the manual.. Don't use the picture for the 5 speed ask craig mack about that.. You will need to put your car in reverse (while off) and test the 4 wires on the manual w/ a volt meter to find which pair has connectivity. If your cruise does not work you need to change the way you wired the 2 wire neutral switch.. instead of just wiring it together you need to run both wires into your car... And attach them to the strange switch on the clutch pedal.. The switch on the side closer to the fire wall NOT the one closer to the back of the car.
07-23-2002, 09:44 AM
#13
Originally posted by NickStam
you sound like an auto driver going through withdrawal:
"I started the car w/o depressing the clutch."
"How can I do clutchless shifting?"
You drive a manual now! Start acting like it
you sound like an auto driver going through withdrawal:
"I started the car w/o depressing the clutch."
"How can I do clutchless shifting?"
You drive a manual now! Start acting like it
I RAN INTO A NEW PROBLEM TODAY!! But doubt it was due to conversion.
here's the scenario:
i was going to south river to pick up the ECU and when coming back, i put car in first and it revs real high but moves slow as if it was slipping? i don't know, but it happened with all gears up to 4 (all the gears i have been messing with since i got conversion, reverse and 5 didn't give problems)...i was scared sh!tless, i was reving high, shifting better
but not moving nowhere as fast...then i decided to like STICK IT INTO EVERY GEAR, i mean i pushed it in and kept my hand on my car's ***** and the problem went away...the closer i got home, the less i sticked it in and it was driving normal again still....i checked under the car for leaks and it was spotless, there is MAD space in my hood now...but it looks strange, i'll take a pic later and show u all but now i gotta go to pearl96max in Edison to see his JL's and discuss this VIPER ALARM HE INSTALLED FOR ME
07-23-2002, 09:49 AM
#14
lol, thanks all, ran into a new problem today!
as i was driving, i would throw it in first and it would rev high but i would move real slow....this happened wit gears 1 to 4....
to solve the problem i just kept my hand on stick and stuck it into gears...i'm thinking it was probably slipping or something....new clutch causing it? who knows....there was no dripping under my car so tranny shouldn't have caused the problem...
anyway, now i drive and it doesn't do that bullsh*t even when i shift normally...guess it happens when u breaking in clutch...
i just bought my ECU today too!
now i gotta hit up pearl96max real quick about my NEW VIPER ALARM
as i was driving, i would throw it in first and it would rev high but i would move real slow....this happened wit gears 1 to 4....
to solve the problem i just kept my hand on stick and stuck it into gears...i'm thinking it was probably slipping or something....new clutch causing it? who knows....there was no dripping under my car so tranny shouldn't have caused the problem...
anyway, now i drive and it doesn't do that bullsh*t even when i shift normally...guess it happens when u breaking in clutch...
i just bought my ECU today too!
now i gotta hit up pearl96max real quick about my NEW VIPER ALARM
07-23-2002, 10:07 AM
#15
Yea, I wouldn't rev it real high or go to WOT, etc, during the clutch break-in period...
I'd baby it during the break-in and if it's still slipping after a while, perhaps consider checking out the clutch/pressure plate for oil, etc.
Congrats!
I'd baby it during the break-in and if it's still slipping after a while, perhaps consider checking out the clutch/pressure plate for oil, etc.
Congrats!
07-23-2002, 02:18 PM
#17
Originally posted by Fish254
how much did the conversion cost you?
how much did the conversion cost you?
yo, i kind of raced my friends corolla that same night but i kept car in one gear to race him and i NEVER redlined, matter of fact i never went past 5,000 rpm....i hope i didn't mess up the clutch...
the slip thing happened again....argh
gotta do a few more tests
07-23-2002, 02:26 PM
#18
Originally posted by meccanoble
I RAN INTO A NEW PROBLEM TODAY!! But doubt it was due to conversion.
here's the scenario:
i put car in first and it revs real high but moves slow as if it was slipping? i don't know, but it happened with all gears up to 4 (all the gears i have been messing with since i got conversion, reverse and 5 didn't give problems)...i was scared sh!tless, i was reving high, shifting better but not moving nowhere as fast...then i decided to like STICK IT INTO EVERY GEAR, i mean i pushed it in and kept my hand on my car's ***** and the problem went away...the closer i got home, the less i sticked it in and it was driving normal again still....
I RAN INTO A NEW PROBLEM TODAY!! But doubt it was due to conversion.
here's the scenario:
i put car in first and it revs real high but moves slow as if it was slipping? i don't know, but it happened with all gears up to 4 (all the gears i have been messing with since i got conversion, reverse and 5 didn't give problems)...i was scared sh!tless, i was reving high, shifting better
but not moving nowhere as fast...then i decided to like STICK IT INTO EVERY GEAR, i mean i pushed it in and kept my hand on my car's ***** and the problem went away...the closer i got home, the less i sticked it in and it was driving normal again still....
07-23-2002, 02:29 PM
#19
Originally posted by TurDz
It sounds like it could be from the conversion...I dunno man, sounds a little serious.
It sounds like it could be from the conversion...I dunno man, sounds a little serious.
next time i go up to NY (he gotta fix a few more things), i'll let him take a look at it...its like on and off...i drove well over 100 miles today and sometimes it does it and sometimes it doesnt...mostly it doesn't but i spent all this dough on like new parts and stuff is happening while skeelo spent so little on parts and his car is running fine...what is goinz on....well still driveaeble but i'll get to bottom of it
07-23-2002, 04:10 PM
#22
hey mecca,
the next time it slips do this.
park the car, pop the hood, and take a 12mm wrench and open the top bleeder for your clutch real fast (put a hose on it or something so it doesnt suck air in!!!) and let the pressure out. then tighten it back down. drive your car, I bet it doesnt slip 1 single bit.... and this tells you 1 thing. you master cylinder linkage is not adjusted properly hooking up to your clutch pedal.
I have had MORE FITS with my clutch slipping, and after a year of changing 6 clutches, all the hydrolics and cylinders, and even switched tranny's (to LSD!), someone finallllly figured it out and adjusted it for me. ever since then (a month ago) my clutch hasn't slipped once and runs like a champ!!(had it on the track 5 times since then haha - )
welcome to the fam , enjoy the ride
the next time it slips do this.
park the car, pop the hood, and take a 12mm wrench and open the top bleeder for your clutch real fast (put a hose on it or something so it doesnt suck air in!!!) and let the pressure out. then tighten it back down. drive your car, I bet it doesnt slip 1 single bit.... and this tells you 1 thing. you master cylinder linkage is not adjusted properly hooking up to your clutch pedal.
I have had MORE FITS with my clutch slipping, and after a year of changing 6 clutches, all the hydrolics and cylinders, and even switched tranny's (to LSD!), someone finallllly figured it out and adjusted it for me. ever since then (a month ago) my clutch hasn't slipped once and runs like a champ!!(had it on the track 5 times since then haha - )
welcome to the fam , enjoy the ride
07-23-2002, 04:12 PM
#23
yea but u guys probably didn't get:
new cylinders
new ACT clutch
low mileaged axles and trans
i just took car for a spin again and it runs fine again but it sounds like y-pipe is hitting my shield again. The shop fixed it but being the y-pipe needed to be taken off to do conversion, it is possible that it got in the way again...i'll see shop next week and take care of it....
oh and I"M THE FASTEST CONVERTED CAR DAMMIT!!
new cylinders
new ACT clutch
low mileaged axles and trans
i just took car for a spin again and it runs fine again but it sounds like y-pipe is hitting my shield again. The shop fixed it but being the y-pipe needed to be taken off to do conversion, it is possible that it got in the way again...i'll see shop next week and take care of it....
oh and I"M THE FASTEST CONVERTED CAR DAMMIT!!
07-23-2002, 04:20 PM
#25
Originally posted by hlh0501
Damn man, you got hosed. I payed less than $1200 for mine.
You are the **** Chaz-man
Damn man, you got hosed. I payed less than $1200 for mine.
You are the **** Chaz-man
But you were the first.. and you helped tear the other car down and I did not know how sh*tty it would be to bleed the clutch.
07-23-2002, 04:32 PM
#26
Originally posted by meccanoble
Your slippage is:
Your slippage is:
Your clutch is adjusted wrong and your fluid is not returning causing you pressure plate not to catch right...
in the factory car there is a plate about 1 inch thick between the pedal mount and the fire wall if you did not add a spacer (I used lug nuts) then your pedal goes to far in and not far enough out.. this prevents the fluid from moving back into the master cylinder tank.
Watch it Harold, or your gonna have a hard time getting info on my dualies
07-23-2002, 06:30 PM
#30
Originally posted by cbr2
DUDE I think skeelo has the same problem.. didn't he do it w/ you..
Your clutch is adjusted wrong and your fluid is not returning causing you pressure plate not to catch right...
in the factory car there is a plate about 1 inch thick between the pedal mount and the fire wall if you did not add a spacer (I used lug nuts) then your pedal goes to far in and not far enough out.. this prevents the fluid from moving back into the master cylinder tank.
DUDE I think skeelo has the same problem.. didn't he do it w/ you..
Your clutch is adjusted wrong and your fluid is not returning causing you pressure plate not to catch right...
in the factory car there is a plate about 1 inch thick between the pedal mount and the fire wall if you did not add a spacer (I used lug nuts) then your pedal goes to far in and not far enough out.. this prevents the fluid from moving back into the master cylinder tank.
I was supposed to get my car back sunday but my clutch line was leaking and instead of buying a new one or getting a new one (couldn't wait cause needed car ASAP), skeelo fixed mine or so we believe and now the clutch pedal is real hard to bring down. its not to the point where its like aggravating to drive but i totally didn't expect this much resistance....i'm going to talk to skeelo and ask him about the spacer thing. Also would the cotter pin have anything to do with it? i found one on my door (think i had extra one in bag)
But skeelo's isn't having the same problems as I...
07-23-2002, 06:33 PM
#31
Originally posted by meccanoble
i'm not sure what you are talking about but i drove his car before he did conversion on mine and ours feel totally different as far as shifting...he has a worn clutch though (stock from high mileaged car) so his is heavily broken into while mine is brand new...i just thought of something too....
I was supposed to get my car back sunday but my clutch line was leaking and instead of buying a new one or getting a new one (couldn't wait cause needed car ASAP), skeelo fixed mine or so we believe and now the clutch pedal is real hard to bring down. its not to the point where its like aggravating to drive but i totally didn't expect this much resistance....i'm going to talk to skeelo and ask him about the spacer thing. Also would the cotter pin have anything to do with it? i found one on my door (think i had extra one in bag)
But skeelo's isn't having the same problems as I...
i'm not sure what you are talking about but i drove his car before he did conversion on mine and ours feel totally different as far as shifting...he has a worn clutch though (stock from high mileaged car) so his is heavily broken into while mine is brand new...i just thought of something too....
I was supposed to get my car back sunday but my clutch line was leaking and instead of buying a new one or getting a new one (couldn't wait cause needed car ASAP), skeelo fixed mine or so we believe and now the clutch pedal is real hard to bring down. its not to the point where its like aggravating to drive but i totally didn't expect this much resistance....i'm going to talk to skeelo and ask him about the spacer thing. Also would the cotter pin have anything to do with it? i found one on my door (think i had extra one in bag)
But skeelo's isn't having the same problems as I...
07-23-2002, 07:56 PM
#32
Originally posted by hlh0501
hey mecca,
the next time it slips do this.
park the car, pop the hood, and take a 12mm wrench and open the top bleeder for your clutch real fast (put a hose on it or something so it doesnt suck air in!!!) and let the pressure out. then tighten it back down. drive your car, I bet it doesnt slip 1 single bit.... and this tells you 1 thing. you master cylinder linkage is not adjusted properly hooking up to your clutch pedal.
I have had MORE FITS with my clutch slipping, and after a year of changing 6 clutches, all the hydrolics and cylinders, and even switched tranny's (to LSD!), someone finallllly figured it out and adjusted it for me. ever since then (a month ago) my clutch hasn't slipped once and runs like a champ!!(had it on the track 5 times since then haha - )
welcome to the fam , enjoy the ride
hey mecca,
the next time it slips do this.
park the car, pop the hood, and take a 12mm wrench and open the top bleeder for your clutch real fast (put a hose on it or something so it doesnt suck air in!!!) and let the pressure out. then tighten it back down. drive your car, I bet it doesnt slip 1 single bit.... and this tells you 1 thing. you master cylinder linkage is not adjusted properly hooking up to your clutch pedal.
I have had MORE FITS with my clutch slipping, and after a year of changing 6 clutches, all the hydrolics and cylinders, and even switched tranny's (to LSD!), someone finallllly figured it out and adjusted it for me. ever since then (a month ago) my clutch hasn't slipped once and runs like a champ!!(had it on the track 5 times since then haha - )
welcome to the fam , enjoy the ride
07-26-2002, 11:53 AM
#35
Originally posted by cbr2
DUDE I think skeelo has the same problem.. didn't he do it w/ you..
Your clutch is adjusted wrong and your fluid is not returning causing you pressure plate not to catch right...
in the factory car there is a plate about 1 inch thick between the pedal mount and the fire wall if you did not add a spacer (I used lug nuts) then your pedal goes to far in and not far enough out.. this prevents the fluid from moving back into the master cylinder tank.
DUDE I think skeelo has the same problem.. didn't he do it w/ you..
Your clutch is adjusted wrong and your fluid is not returning causing you pressure plate not to catch right...
in the factory car there is a plate about 1 inch thick between the pedal mount and the fire wall if you did not add a spacer (I used lug nuts) then your pedal goes to far in and not far enough out.. this prevents the fluid from moving back into the master cylinder tank.
I had that problem, but after adjusting the cylinder i no longer have it. I used no spacer, and had no slip, just a worn out clutch. That spacer is not 1 inch thick either, its more like a half an inch....
07-26-2002, 07:53 PM
#36
my mechanic adjusted clutch pedal, now its much better, there's free play when moving it down and engages a lot lower and faster, less resistance than before...it feels very similar to yours now skeelo, just a little more force needed but very comfortable to drive....
just gotta get rid of this dam CEL light
just gotta get rid of this dam CEL light
07-27-2002, 12:10 AM
#39
i knew nothing about manual when i got my car and it was hard enough trying to find a maxima (4th gen) under 10,000 already, although cheaper it was also really hard to find a stick max in the first place at that time......
07-27-2002, 07:20 AM
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 8,659
Originally posted by meccanoble
i knew nothing about manual when i got my car and it was hard enough trying to find a maxima (4th gen) under 10,000 already, although cheaper it was also really hard to find a stick max in the first place at that time......
i knew nothing about manual when i got my car and it was hard enough trying to find a maxima (4th gen) under 10,000 already, although cheaper it was also really hard to find a stick max in the first place at that time......