I'll cut right to the chase. Hot or cold, my 95 SE w/ 130,000 will crank strongly and according to the tach it looks like its rotating at the required 300 rpms but it won't start. I DONT HAVE A STARTER OR BATTERY PROBLEM - I'm certain of this. I've done many tests (diy) and the ignition appears to be good, various sensors are checking out good (tps, crank position switches - both, MAF, etc). I am suspecting the fuel delivery. I have a new filter (installed correctly) but am thinking maybe the fuel pump, regulator, or a leaking/sticking injector. Gonna get a fuel pressure gauge tomorrow.

NOW THIS IS WHAT SEEMS ODD TO ME. Again, I say the car cranks plently strong and won't start but, if I push start it and pop the clutch in 2nd; it will start right up. SO any ideas? Once the car is started it doesn't demonstrate any symptoms of any problem.
Weird.

 

the only think i can think of is its gotta be the starter i know you said it wasent but i could be

 

I'm bumping this thread. I finally gave up and have taken the car to the dealership. They've had it all day and are still stumped. The mechanic is supposed to call Nissan's head hancho to explain the symptoms and see if he can point him in a direction. Like I said, weird. I'm kinda glad that the mechanic is stumped; maybe my troubleshooting skills are really good. However, this sounds like more money in the long run. $hit

 

My vote goes to one of the two Crank Sensors.

Here's why - When you crank, you take lots of juice from your battery. So maybe your voltage drops down to 11 or even 10 volts. If one of those sensors are starting to get weak, the signal isn't gonna be strong enough for the ECU to determine where the crank is at to begin firing your plugs.

If you roll and pop the clutch, your battery voltage is perfect 12.5 or so volts and the signals from all your sensors are very strong. Hance, you start right up.

My buddies I30 had a Crank sensor go. It was intermittent and would crank perfectly but not start. After it ran once, it started the rest of the day. A jump from another car would make it start, that was strange cause the crank was strong with just his battery. We also NEVER got a CEL light.

When if finally did die, Infiniti had to figure out what was wrong. I had checked all the sensors with my multi meter and they were in spec. But the Crank sensor was producing a weak signal which I could not see by just measuring the sensor.

Please post here what the dealer finds. I'm very curious if the crank sensor is prone to failures of this type.

 

Thanks for the reply njmaxseltd. I too checked a wide array of senors, including the crank posistion sensors. I though about what you are saying about the battery voltage dropping while cranking. My car wouldn't even start w/ my good battery AND a jump start. I'll definitley post what the dealer finds.

 

Well I got the car back today and it seems fixed. Apparently, when Nissan installed my clutch, they didn't clean the mating surfaces between the clutch housing and the engine well enough. Because of that dirty connection, sufficient ground wasn't being provided for my starter. It was all covered under warranty. Herb Gordon in Silver Spring Md. is a great dealership and continues to win my support. I wouldn't suspect this problem for anyone elses car unless you've dis-assembled the engine/clutch housing. It was the first time this dealership had encountered this problem. Glad I could be the guinea pig. Thanks again for your input 97BLKMAXSE and njmaxseltd

 

i am having the same problem. i just add a new clutch and pressure plate, and now the car will crank really strongly, but my car will not start. but if i step on the gas it will eventually crank. that ground thing might be a good idea, but would you mind give me a more detail description? thanks!

 

The ground for the starter is supplied through the mating surfaces of the engine and the clutch housing. When you seperate the clutch housing from the engine, you need to make sure you sand/clean the mating surface. That's all I know to say. I would think an easy way to test this, now that I'm aware of it, would be to take a jumper cable and just use the black ends to connect one to the battery - and the other black end to the starter mounting bolt. If the car starts, the grounding may be the problem. Good luck.