CoOlKidS1979

Okay here is the background - I was having electricial problems which consisted fo the the following fuses blowing, the start signal fuse, wiper fuse and rear defog fuse, in addition to that sometimes the wiper and rear defog would turn on by themsleves. I ended up tracing the problem back to the relay box that is relocated when installing a supercharger. There was a zip tie on the bundle of wires leading into the relay box, I cut lose the zip tie and removed the eletricial tape around the wires to discover 5 wires melted together. Now the zip tie was secured to the body and I believe that during the course of installing the s/c I pulled on the relay box putting pressure on the zip tie. 2 of the wires you could see the plastic around them had come off, and then when the car wouldnt start I had to by pass the start signal fuse with a piece of straight wire and I think this is what caused the melting. Well that solved my electricial problems, but about 2 hours later I went to start the car and it would not start, no crank at all, but everything else worked radio, lights, etc. However when I turnt the car off and removed the keys the guage cluster check lights would still stay on, but some would be full brightness while others would be dim, in addition the green light on the eject bottom on the cd player would also stay on but it would not work. So after looking for the problem for about 3 hours the car randomly started, and I was able to drive home. Now the car will start, but its cranks for a very long time before it starts and now the check lights go off when you turn the car off. Now I havent been driving the car since I know there is an electricial problem somewhere. Being that the problems appearared after I had just fixed the original problem leads me to believe it is probably somethign I did tring to fix the first problem. Now I had been playing around with the interior fuse box thinking that the original problem had somethign to do with the fuse box. I knew the problem was probably a short somewhere, so I was looking there for the short. That is the onyl thing that I had touched while I tried to fix the problem, so I kinda suspect I did something then, but I cant find anything that would cause the problems I am now having. Now for the questions......

1. could I somehow have damaged the actual fuse box? especially when I bypassed the start signal fuse with a piece of straight wire? I took it out of the car but it doesnt appear that it was meant to ever be taken apart

2. I tried to back track the wire that powers the guage cluster and the check lights hoping that it would lead me to a short somewhere, but I am having trouble locating it, it is fuse #13 labeled meter, and the manual says it would be a green wire, but there is about 5 green wires coming from the back of the fuse box, so I thought that if i removed the fuse and then using my multmeter to do a continuitly test i could find what wire it was, so put on end in where the fuse went and then started to test the wires comgin fromthe back of the fuse box but I was getting continuity from a whoel bunch of wires, so I guess that wasnt a was to figure out what wire it was. Does anyone know now i can determine what wire it is?

3. Since I suspect the problem is a short somewhere and one of the problem is that the car suddenly cranks for along time before it turns over when it never did that before, so i tested the vlotage going to the coils and it should th same as the battery which is 12.60 with the key in the on position and 11.80 at the coils. Is that small change anything out of the ordinary?

Thanks to anyone who read though the entire thing !!!

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

Aside from repairing all the melted wires at that fuse box... you may have damaged some circuits... Repair all the damaged/shorted wires, if you haven't done so already.