My car is running better than ever. Little things I've done ->
08-26-2002, 09:32 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
My car is running better than ever. Little things I've done ->
Just thought I'd share some unusual maintenance items I've performed recently that have definitely improved engine performance. My car had been running sluggish for some time (over a year), and exhibited power surges/drops with more than usual roughness.
What I've done:
1) Disconnected and cleaned every ground connection on the car. Includes:
-- battery-to-chassis ground near battery tray
-- battery-to-engine ground near front exhaust manifold
-- engine sensor grounds at the top of the lower intake manifold
-- both battery terminals
For all cases, I used emory cloth to sand both metal surfaces, followed by battery corrosion cleaner and finally a corrosion inhibitor grease upon reconnection.
2) Added a second engine sensor ground from the grounding point at the top of the lower intake manifold to the negative pole on the battery. I used 8 gauge cable from home depot (stranded, not solid core) and ring connector from a car stereo shop.
3) "Engine steam bath". **Disclaimer: I do NOT take any responsiblity if you f this one up...you must be careful with this one.** I've done this before to clean up carbon residue inside the engine (combustion chambers, valves, pistons). To perform this, I disconnected one of the vacuum lines (one to the MEVI in my case) and added an extension vacuum tube section. With the engine running, I dipped the vacuum tube into a bottle of drinking water (high purity) for a couple seconds while revving the engine at the throttle body. The engine would start to stumble but I continued to rev until the motor smoothed out again. I repeated until I just about emptied the 12oz bottle. When complete, I performed the same task, this time using a bottle of Chemtool (?) carb/throttle body cleaner. This is the same stuff you can use to clean the throttle body, but this one comes in the form of a bottle with a simple cap on top. I used approx. 2/3rds of the 12oz bottle using the same procedure. This is a very effective procedure for removing carbon buildup inside the engine...this is a trick I've learned from several old-school mechanics/gearheads.
4) Bottle of fuel injection cleaner in the gas tank.
After all this work, my engine runs smoother and the power levels have been bumped up. All the jerkiness/roughness is gone. I have my MEVI hooked up to vacuum all the time right now, too for high rpm power at the expense of midrange power. In spite of this, after the tuneup work I performed, the car pulls nearly as hard at 4000 rpm as it did with the MEVI deactivated (ie stock). The car will be a monster as soon as my Harlan arrives and I get the MEVI switching.
Anyhoo, this was a long post, but I just wanted to throw it all out there to see if it might help anyone with similar issues (lack of engine power).
What I've done:
1) Disconnected and cleaned every ground connection on the car. Includes:
-- battery-to-chassis ground near battery tray
-- battery-to-engine ground near front exhaust manifold
-- engine sensor grounds at the top of the lower intake manifold
-- both battery terminals
For all cases, I used emory cloth to sand both metal surfaces, followed by battery corrosion cleaner and finally a corrosion inhibitor grease upon reconnection.
2) Added a second engine sensor ground from the grounding point at the top of the lower intake manifold to the negative pole on the battery. I used 8 gauge cable from home depot (stranded, not solid core) and ring connector from a car stereo shop.
3) "Engine steam bath". **Disclaimer: I do NOT take any responsiblity if you f this one up...you must be careful with this one.** I've done this before to clean up carbon residue inside the engine (combustion chambers, valves, pistons). To perform this, I disconnected one of the vacuum lines (one to the MEVI in my case) and added an extension vacuum tube section. With the engine running, I dipped the vacuum tube into a bottle of drinking water (high purity) for a couple seconds while revving the engine at the throttle body. The engine would start to stumble but I continued to rev until the motor smoothed out again. I repeated until I just about emptied the 12oz bottle. When complete, I performed the same task, this time using a bottle of Chemtool (?) carb/throttle body cleaner. This is the same stuff you can use to clean the throttle body, but this one comes in the form of a bottle with a simple cap on top. I used approx. 2/3rds of the 12oz bottle using the same procedure. This is a very effective procedure for removing carbon buildup inside the engine...this is a trick I've learned from several old-school mechanics/gearheads.
4) Bottle of fuel injection cleaner in the gas tank.
After all this work, my engine runs smoother and the power levels have been bumped up. All the jerkiness/roughness is gone. I have my MEVI hooked up to vacuum all the time right now, too for high rpm power at the expense of midrange power. In spite of this, after the tuneup work I performed, the car pulls nearly as hard at 4000 rpm as it did with the MEVI deactivated (ie stock). The car will be a monster as soon as my Harlan arrives and I get the MEVI switching.
Anyhoo, this was a long post, but I just wanted to throw it all out there to see if it might help anyone with similar issues (lack of engine power).
08-26-2002, 10:00 AM
#4
Kev, any reason you went with the water 1st and then the carb cleaner? And was the carb cleaner in an aerosol can? If so how did you get the carb cleaner into the vacuum line? Spray it in?
As the other poster indicated concerns, like Keven said, it's a no bozo DIY item. You probably have to make damn sure you don't suck in too much water at one time.
As the other poster indicated concerns, like Keven said, it's a no bozo DIY item. You probably have to make damn sure you don't suck in too much water at one time.
08-26-2002, 10:22 AM
#5
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Posts: n/a
Jeff, Chemtool comes in a couple different-packaged versions. This one came as simple a can with a lid on top...ie you can pour it out or, in my case, dip the vacuum hose into it.
Yep, I totally understand your and FAST LS1's concerns about this...which is why I had the big disclaimer on my post. You have to be *very* careful not to stall the engine. An engine that stalls with water in it will likely NOT start again unless you let it sit for a couple hours with the spark plugs removed to allow the water to evaporate out. Not a good thing for the motor. However, if done correctly, the slight amount of water ingested will not be enough to hydrolock the engine (ie enough water to mechanically limit the movement of the piston and consequently bend a rod). Also, if done correctly enough water will not be ingested to cause the motor to stall. Just enough will be allowed inside to turn to steam and soften the deposits. I always limited the time the vaccum hose was submerged to no more than a couple seconds at a time.
Whether or not this water step is needed, I really don't know. I think the critical step is the Chemtool. One could probably eliminate the water and go straight to the Chemtool.
Yep, I totally understand your and FAST LS1's concerns about this...which is why I had the big disclaimer on my post. You have to be *very* careful not to stall the engine. An engine that stalls with water in it will likely NOT start again unless you let it sit for a couple hours with the spark plugs removed to allow the water to evaporate out. Not a good thing for the motor. However, if done correctly, the slight amount of water ingested will not be enough to hydrolock the engine (ie enough water to mechanically limit the movement of the piston and consequently bend a rod). Also, if done correctly enough water will not be ingested to cause the motor to stall. Just enough will be allowed inside to turn to steam and soften the deposits. I always limited the time the vaccum hose was submerged to no more than a couple seconds at a time.
Whether or not this water step is needed, I really don't know. I think the critical step is the Chemtool. One could probably eliminate the water and go straight to the Chemtool.
Originally posted by Jeff92se
Kev, any reason you went with the water 1st and then the carb cleaner? And was the carb cleaner in an aerosol can? If so how did you get the carb cleaner into the vacuum line? Spray it in?
As the other poster indicated concerns, like Keven said, it's a no bozo DIY item. You probably have to make damn sure you don't suck in too much water at one time.
Kev, any reason you went with the water 1st and then the carb cleaner? And was the carb cleaner in an aerosol can? If so how did you get the carb cleaner into the vacuum line? Spray it in?
As the other poster indicated concerns, like Keven said, it's a no bozo DIY item. You probably have to make damn sure you don't suck in too much water at one time.
08-26-2002, 03:12 PM
#6
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 28
hydroLOCK
I knew there was a technical name for what I did to my 97 Quest (very simlar to my 97 Maxima). Sprayed a bunch of cleaner in the TB with the engine off. Very little came back out, but I thought it was evaporating real quick, like ether. I went to start her up and CLUNK. I started pulling the plugs. I got to #3 and it went HISS. I left that one out, put the other plugs in and left the wires off. I cranked the engine for ten seconds which gave the engine bay a nice carb cleaner bath.
The lack of permanent damage to the engine is probably due to my starter/battery being so weak. The carb cleaner likes to eat paint, too.
And my $.02 on fuel filters: clogged ones also stress the fuel pump, which is another numbskull lesson I learned the hard, expensive way.
The lack of permanent damage to the engine is probably due to my starter/battery being so weak. The carb cleaner likes to eat paint, too.
And my $.02 on fuel filters: clogged ones also stress the fuel pump, which is another numbskull lesson I learned the hard, expensive way.
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