Lime

Looks pretty good. Here's the link:

http://www.nemaxima.net/lime/oil_analysis_82002.pdf

I think you need Acrobat reader 5 for that, sorry.

Notes: this oil was in my engine regrettably longer than I normally leave oil in...I was super hectic for like 2 months, and I meant not to put so many miles on it. It was in there about ~6000 miles. I've never let my oil go that long.

Also, I have a bad oil pressure switch (which I just unsuccessfully tried to change...car was not high enough off the ground).

Oil added: 0; oil filter used: OEM Nissan; oil used (yeah it says this but I'll revamp): Royal Purple 5w30.

Bill, can you decipher a little bit of that for me? They say I might have poor bearing wear and what is up with the filtration? I'm not too sure what they are referring to.

I will do a retest in ~4500 miles.

I drive my car HARD, so...hm...what do the oil gurus think?

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

Interesting, thanks for posting it. I'll leave the comments to Bill since I know he's been dying to see a RP report.

Lime

Heh...well..okay. All opinions and assistance are appreciated.

Anyway as I did say I was going to do, my next oil change (I repeated RP this time) will be AMSOIL. Wanna sell me some?

Monil

How much for the oil analysis?

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

Okay,

They mentioned that the silicon level is a little high and could be improved. The primary source of silcon in this case is usually from the dirt in air. It seems they were commenting on the JWT intake you have. It might not be filtering as good as the averages they compare reports against. When was the last time you cleaned the intake? The oil/gauze filters are kinda interesting, they actually filter better when they are a little dirty, so this may be factor here. The silicon level could also be contributing to the insoluble's that were just under the limit.

Anytime you want Amsoil, all you have to do is ask, that and bake brownies

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

It's $18.95

http://www.blackstone-labs.com

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Hmmmmm....I'm not liking that report. A bit too much bearing wear for a car with 69k.

Of course you say you drive the car hard (something you didn't readily admit in your e-mail ), and that can always have a negative impact. Also the fact that you don't know what occurred in the first 50k of ownership factors in as well.

Don't worry about the silicon.....it really isn't that bad and I have no idea how they came up with 12ppm being "typical". For almost every VQ analysis I have (we're talking 20 or so), that average value has always been around 16 or so......

I would go 3500 this time and re-submit a sample. Only this time throw a clean cut open milk jug underneath while you are catching a sample and throw it back in the crankcase until you get the results back. If it continues to show elevated lead and chromium, then you may be well served to do an engine flush.



Can't believe I'm recommending a damn Jiffy Lube interval.

On the positive side, the Royal Purple is probably doing fine.

Lime

yeah it's time to clean the intake again :-\ Oh well...I've been meaning to. I hate when I'm busy and/or lazy.

I meant to say about ~5500 miles on it up there on the oil sorry...actually it was like 5600 or something I dunno...my brain is tired.

Anyway...hm...well what do you suggest I do about the engine wear? I bought the car with like 51,800 miles on it or something. I don't think they did regular oil changes, which lead to the rear main seal leaking (something I noticed quite soon after getting the car, before I drove like a ****ed-off b17ch). What can I do to help my car?

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

I definitely agree the VQ was abused in its prior life. Most likely, the next sample report won't really be "better". At that point, I would get a Bilstein Engine Flush performed. I would find a legitimate car dealer in your area that has this service available:

Use the contact info here:

http://www.motorlife.com/online/locations/index.htm

The dealer I went to allowed me to give them my own oil. I think at the time I was using Mobil 1....


DO NOT go to a Jiffy Lube, as a lot of them now offer this service. If those guys can fubar oil changes, I sure as hell wouldn't want them operating a nice machine that could do even more damage.

For a better explanation and other links, go to this thread:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....n+engine+flush

Lime

Ooooh thanks, Bill! You're awesome! I had a feeling my poor baby was abused earlier. The only things I know are: they probably didn't do frequent oil changes, they liked golf, they didn't take care of the exterior, and they probably smoked. :-\ Poor Max...I wanna make him happy.

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

I've noticed that the 4th gens that tend to do mostly short trips but are driven hard and/or street/drag raced tend to have a high lead content like Lime's.

I wonder how much this has to do with lots of idling involved and the car not really getting up to a full operating temperature before being opened up? It doesn't seem to have any relationship to the brand of oil, and it can't only be about driving hard. I drive the crap out of my car and don't have this issue, even with Mobil 1



Thoughts?

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Good points. My main concern revolves around the lack of oil history and the current leaks she's having.

Lime,

Get your leak fixed, THEN go 3500 miles or so on oil and see how it goes. You may have to change your oil based on whether the OPS is the problem or if yet another seal replacement is in your future.

Lime

sorry I didn't get the car new ... but a) I was poor, and b) 5th gens were out (oogly ) hehe.

Anyhoo, I'm going to see if I can get the OPSU replaced tonight at my friend's shop really quick. My main trouble was there wasn't enough light or height to see how the connector would disconnect...feh! I'll try to take piccies. I JUST changed the oil last week so...shouldn't be too big of a deal....

I emailed that place to see where there's a place in CT to get my motor flushed. My dad had something done...I'm not sure if it was this though...anyway he said it was great.

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

I think you use a 1-1/16 12-point socket to get the OPS off. However, if there isn't oil caked around it, it's not necessary to do it. It's just known to be the source of a leak. That rubber boot keeps it from being real obvious that it's the source.

Engine flush is great, but definitely have the leak fixed before blowing that kind of dough on an engine flush. Plus, it may not be necessary.

I think I tried e-mailing, but I got better response when calling them. I guess they had to do something to get me off the phone.

speedtrip

My oil analysis (@ 100,000 miles) also had a high level of lead. 30 ppm! Everything else appears to be fine.

Lime

Yah...I know...I just need some more room under the car haha. I'm not a total moron, I swear.

Haha I'll give them a buzz at work tomorrow...free...yay.