04 02 - Fuel Tank Temp Sensor

06 06 - Cylinder 3 Misfire

08 07 - EVAP Canister purge control valve/soenoid valve circuit

10 08 - EVAP canister purge volume control valve

the fuel tank temp sensor, i'm wondering if i change the fuel filter if it will go away. As for the cylinder misfire. I'm wondering if i just need to change my spark plugs because i never did. The other two, i have no idea. I'm about to get a tune up and before i just spend the money stupidly, i would like to know what i need to change so i don't get a tune up and everything is still wrong. Thanks to all and everyone that can help me with this

 

asssistance please! or where do u guy recommend me going for assistance?

 

Hm...i would say take it to a trusted mechanic. Um....the first thing i would do is check your spark plugs, or POSSIBLY your fuel injector is bad for cylinder #3. Im not too sure about the others, because my Haynes manual is somewhere- and im not in the mood for looking for it. If you have a manual check that out.

So you can wait for a bit, for someone to help out more than i did, or take it to your mechanic.

Good Luck!

 

stupid mechanics will charge for a check up...i'll patiently wait...

SOMEONE OUT THERE HAS TO HAVE A MANUAL!!!

 

i would like to know what the last tqo codes mean...anyone?

 

A good word of advice before you start spending time and money on this check-up and trying to figure out what is wrong. I would first write down the exact codes and keep them handy. Then, reset your ECU the proper way on the ECU (not by unplugging the batter). Then, go out and drive it for a while, maybe for an hour, or just drive it whenever and see if it happens again. If it doesn't, then you have nothing to worry about. But if it does, then contact Bags533 and ask him if he can pull those codes out of his Nissan Maxima Service manual and tell you what the problem is and what the solution is. Sorry for the "non-direct" answer.

 

lol, if u look at my first post on this thread, u would see that i already know the codes and what they mean technically. I need to know how to remove them....but atleast u responded


ASSISTANCE PLEASE

 

But I would first do what I said and reset the ECU to see if the codes come back or not. And what I said about contacting Bags533 is, he has a 400-500 page book about his 1997 Maxima and it lists in detail every code. There is a "how-to" on how to fix EVERY single code your Maxima can throw at you and what may br wrong with it, and etc.

 

Here's a little to get you started on your troubles. If you need more info later (like tech specs, etc... email or PM and I'll email excerpts from appropriate book, Haynes or FSM). As previously posted, I'd clear the codes the proper way (on the ECM), and see what codes possibly return after driving a while. But I would definitely record all codes you currently have prior to doing that. From the '97 FSM:

Tank Fuel Temp Sensor-Harness/connectors or sensor. Check for open or shorted circuit. The sensor is located under the rear seat.

Cylinder Misfire-uses one and two trip detection logic (3-way catalyst damage). One trip: If the misfire will damage the catalyst (overheat), the MIL will blink. If it decreases to a level that won't cause damage, then it will stop blinking and stay constant on. ECM continues monitoring misfire every 200 engine revolutions. Two trip: If it isn't bad enough to cause damage but only affect exhaust emissions, the MIL will light up (constant on) after 2nd consecutive trip, and ECM monitors misfire every 1000 engine revolutions. Possible causes for misfire: Improper Spark Plug, Insufficient compression, Incorrect fuel pressure, EGR valve, Injector circuit open or shorted, Injectors, Intake air leaks, Ignition secondary circuit open or shorted, Lack of fuel, Magnetized signal plate (flywheel). To confirm trouble code without tools (I'm assuming if you don't have a FSM, you don't have a CONSULT tool): 1. Warm engine to normal. 2. Turn ignition off and wait atleast 5 seconds. 3. Start engine and drive at 1500-3000 rpm's for atleast 3 minutes, trying to hold rpm's steady as possible in that range. 4. Turn ignition off, wait atleast 5 seconds, and turn ignition to "on". 5. Pull codes from ECM.

For the other 2, from personal experience with my '96 (RIP), and seeing a few posts of related problems, I think it is a common problem. My '96 was covered under warranty, so if yours still is (an extended warranty if bought used), I'd have the dealership replace the parts. My memory is a little foggy, but I believe mine were actually under a recall. Don't quote me on that as I had another recall service done at same time, and don't remember if the canister purge control valve and stuff were changed from recall or warranty. I do remember the important things about the whole service, the problems were fixed, and I paid $0.00. I'd call several dealerships to verify possible recall so you aren't fed BS from one that may not want to do recall work.

The misfire sounds like the top priority as it can possibly cause damage. The above info could have you busy for awhile. Email or PM me (email preferred) if you need more info or scanned pages. Keep us posted as to your progress. Hope this helps, and have fun.

Dave

 

thanks bro, your info has been very useful. I emailed u with new questions, thanks once again

 

Those damn EVAP codes are annoying
I really doubt that there are any parts of the EVAP system that if broken, can harm your car or prevent it from operating normally.. It won't even effect emissions..

I remember when i got my 98 max a year ago, i pulled a few EVAP codes. I took the canister apart, found the canister vent control valve, washed it and put some WD 40 on it.. put everything back together and reset the light... never came back

now when i got my 97, i bought it WITH the damn Check engine light... helped me get it cheaper.. i was expencting something expensive, but when i checked it, it was the same exact ****...

i did the same thing i did in my 98 and all the EVAP codes dissppeared..
There is a small valve that moves and lets gasses out of the system or something.. that thing can easily get stuck.. and it will cause a few codes to pop up, all relating to the EVAP not functioning properly.

I took it to the inspection without fixing anything, just resetting the light... still passed with flying colors..
car doesn't feel any faster or slower than before i fixed it either..
dont think they are that significant.. at least to me

 

hey bro, i sent u an email too. How do u clean this canister? where is it located? I would like to see if this would work for me

 

cylinder 3 misfire? the best way to see if it really is the 3rd cylinder is to swap out the coil, like take the 5th cylinder coil and swap it with the 3rd. if the code comes up later as 5th cylinder misfire, than you have a bad ignition coil..just replace it...if it still shows 3rd cylinder misfire, than i would check the spark plugs or something in that area. just my two cents. i had a bad coil once and that is what i did

 

I know what could be causing the evap codes but I'm just one of them stupid mechanics.

 

 

You guys need to invest $15 in a Chiltons manual for the 4th gen Maxima and $15 for a volt-meter. These two items are priceless when it comes to trouble shooting your car. It's very hard for us to tell you guys where these systems are and how to check them. In the Chilton's, they tell you exactly where to look and what the device looks like.

The EVAP canister is located on the drivers side of the car behind the rear wheel (just under the fuel neck). It is a charcoal canister that releases vapor from the gas tank. The charcoal in the canister filters the hydrocarbon from the vapor before it is released. Pull the canister, spray the inside of the solenoid with WD40, run two jump wires from the solenoid to the battery and activate the solenoid a few times to verify it is working correctly, and reinstall.


Dave