Rotors: X-drilled vs slotted vs both - my research
#1
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Rotors: X-drilled vs slotted vs both - my research
I will need new rotors to replace my OEM ones, within the next year and a half or so. My research has led me to the following conclusions:
X-drilled: cools the brakes 25%-30%, no warpage or brake fade
slotted: for h/p street and track, self-cleaning so that it does not glaze over, keeps the brakes at a higher operating temperature
x-drilled + slotted: just LOOKS! since the x-dilling would try to cool the brakes while the slotting would try to heat the brakes...
I am thinking that x-drilled would be the best for all street application, under relatively heavy braking sometimes. Slotted would be better suited for a person who brakes very mildly (thus causing glazing over)
Tell me what you guys think.
Anish
X-drilled: cools the brakes 25%-30%, no warpage or brake fade
slotted: for h/p street and track, self-cleaning so that it does not glaze over, keeps the brakes at a higher operating temperature
x-drilled + slotted: just LOOKS! since the x-dilling would try to cool the brakes while the slotting would try to heat the brakes...
I am thinking that x-drilled would be the best for all street application, under relatively heavy braking sometimes. Slotted would be better suited for a person who brakes very mildly (thus causing glazing over)
Tell me what you guys think.
Anish
#3
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I realize that some x-drilled rotors crack under heavy use which is why people tend to shy away from them.
But if I bought any rotor, I would only buy brand-name like Brembo or KVR or Powerstop.
In that case, would my best option be x-drilled? Or should I still try to get a solid rotor/dimpled rotor?
I don't see why any performance driver would pick slotted, since if you do heavy braking, there is no chance of it glazing over (which is what slotted rotors self-clean). Also slotted rotors try to keep a higher operating temperature... why would you want that?
But if I bought any rotor, I would only buy brand-name like Brembo or KVR or Powerstop.
In that case, would my best option be x-drilled? Or should I still try to get a solid rotor/dimpled rotor?
I don't see why any performance driver would pick slotted, since if you do heavy braking, there is no chance of it glazing over (which is what slotted rotors self-clean). Also slotted rotors try to keep a higher operating temperature... why would you want that?
#4
Originally posted by speedemn
Also slotted rotors try to keep a higher operating temperature... why would you want that?
Also slotted rotors try to keep a higher operating temperature... why would you want that?
All in all, for a streeet car, blank rotors are the best. Drilling or slotting does not affect performance enough to be worth the money. These kinds of rotors are essentially a cosmetic mod.
I know, I know..."But, Porsches and Ferraris use drilled rotors" These cars offer race level performance on the street. Thus they are in a different catagory than the average street car. Besides, the Porsche rotors aren't drilled. They are cast with the holes in them. This gets rid of the durability issues.
#5
Originally posted by speedemn
I don't see why any performance driver would pick slotted, since if you do heavy braking, there is no chance of it glazing over (which is what slotted rotors self-clean). Also slotted rotors try to keep a higher operating temperature... why would you want that?
I don't see why any performance driver would pick slotted, since if you do heavy braking, there is no chance of it glazing over (which is what slotted rotors self-clean). Also slotted rotors try to keep a higher operating temperature... why would you want that?
X-Drilled are mostly looks too. Very little cooling, with the extra issue that there is less surface area of the rotor to act as a heat sink.
There are bunch of excellent articles posted about this issue already.
Here's one of the better one
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....7&pagenumber=5
#6
Slots ensure that fresh pad material is available and gasses are evacuated from between the pad and rotor. My Hawk HP+ pads that I use on the track are pretty weak at low temp, a little unnerving. Once you lay on them and get them HOT they just dig in and STOP, they need to be very very warm to work optimally.
BTW if you look at the brake rotors on touring cars, you will see just as many rotors that are only slotted as you see that are cross drilled.
BTW if you look at the brake rotors on touring cars, you will see just as many rotors that are only slotted as you see that are cross drilled.
#7
Originally posted by Nealoc187
Slots ensure that fresh pad material is available and gasses are evacuated from between the pad and rotor. My Hawk HP+ pads that I use on the track are pretty weak at low temp, a little unnerving. Once you lay on them and get them HOT they just dig in and STOP, they need to be very very warm to work optimally.
BTW if you look at the brake rotors on touring cars, you will see just as many rotors that are only slotted as you see that are cross drilled.
Slots ensure that fresh pad material is available and gasses are evacuated from between the pad and rotor. My Hawk HP+ pads that I use on the track are pretty weak at low temp, a little unnerving. Once you lay on them and get them HOT they just dig in and STOP, they need to be very very warm to work optimally.
BTW if you look at the brake rotors on touring cars, you will see just as many rotors that are only slotted as you see that are cross drilled.
#8
Originally posted by mzmtg
Some high performance pads only work well at higher temps. If you are using these kinds of pads on the street, you need to keep some "heat" in the brakes. I know my Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads work much better when warmed up. On cold mornings, they barely stop the car at all.
Some high performance pads only work well at higher temps. If you are using these kinds of pads on the street, you need to keep some "heat" in the brakes. I know my Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads work much better when warmed up. On cold mornings, they barely stop the car at all.
#9
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Originally posted by mzmtg
Some high performance pads only work well at higher temps. If you are using these kinds of pads on the street, you need to keep some "heat" in the brakes. I know my Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads work much better when warmed up. On cold mornings, they barely stop the car at all.
Some high performance pads only work well at higher temps. If you are using these kinds of pads on the street, you need to keep some "heat" in the brakes. I know my Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads work much better when warmed up. On cold mornings, they barely stop the car at all.
So given the fact that I have semi-metallic pads that do not need to run as hot, I wonder if I would be better off with drilled or slotted or just a solid rotor (or dimpled??).
#10
Originally posted by speedemn
I got the KVR carbon (semi-metallic) brake pads. I purposely didn't get the Hawk pads because living in Canada, I didn't want to have to deal with warmup times for that pad, for them to work.
So given the fact that I have semi-metallic pads that do not need to run as hot, I wonder if I would be better off with drilled or slotted or just a solid rotor (or dimpled??).
I got the KVR carbon (semi-metallic) brake pads. I purposely didn't get the Hawk pads because living in Canada, I didn't want to have to deal with warmup times for that pad, for them to work.
So given the fact that I have semi-metallic pads that do not need to run as hot, I wonder if I would be better off with drilled or slotted or just a solid rotor (or dimpled??).
I think you are putting too much thought into this. Your needs (as long as you are not racing) will be more than met by blank rotors. Plus, they are the least expensive option. Put your mental energy into choosing which pad is best for you. Then, put the money you saved towards getting your new rotors cryo-treated so they will last forever.
#11
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Originally posted by mzmtg
I think you are putting too much thought into this. Your needs (as long as you are not racing) will be more than met by blank rotors. Plus, they are the least expensive option. Put your mental energy into choosing which pad is best for you. Then, put the money you saved towards getting your new rotors cryo-treated so they will last forever.
I think you are putting too much thought into this. Your needs (as long as you are not racing) will be more than met by blank rotors. Plus, they are the least expensive option. Put your mental energy into choosing which pad is best for you. Then, put the money you saved towards getting your new rotors cryo-treated so they will last forever.
#14
Weren't you ready to plunk down some serious $ one some x-drilled rotos that can't be turned if necessary? Yes, people have had excellent durability results from this process.
And on the stree, I can't see justifing x-drilled rotos. As I doubt (or you should be) driving that hard to take full advantage of them.
And on the stree, I can't see justifing x-drilled rotos. As I doubt (or you should be) driving that hard to take full advantage of them.
Originally posted by speedemn
Whoa that sounds like an expensive process for brake rotors for a "street car," as you mentioned earlier! Does anyone here actually get that done and how much does it cost?
Whoa that sounds like an expensive process for brake rotors for a "street car," as you mentioned earlier! Does anyone here actually get that done and how much does it cost?
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Originally posted by Jeff92se
Weren't you ready to plunk down some serious $ one some x-drilled rotos that can't be turned if necessary? Yes, people have had excellent durability results from this process.
And on the stree, I can't see justifing x-drilled rotos. As I doubt (or you should be) driving that hard to take full advantage of them.
Weren't you ready to plunk down some serious $ one some x-drilled rotos that can't be turned if necessary? Yes, people have had excellent durability results from this process.
And on the stree, I can't see justifing x-drilled rotos. As I doubt (or you should be) driving that hard to take full advantage of them.
As for cyro-treatment, where can I get that done and how much would I expect to spend on it?
But I think I am convinced that normal rotors would be better than cross drilled for even heavy street application (eg, the occasional street race), right? Or maybe I should get dimpled? I didn't think about that option before.
#16
Originally posted by speedemn
Well I'm not really sure how much normal rotors cost. I do know however that KVR cross drilled rotors cost $121 CDN each for the front. I assume that OEM rotors cost more. Are you suggesting that I stick with OEM rotors or should I get KVR/Brembo blank rotors for cheaper?
As for cyro-treatment, where can I get that done and how much would I expect to spend on it?
But I think I am convinced that normal rotors would be better than cross drilled for even heavy street application (eg, the occasional street race), right? Or maybe I should get dimpled? I didn't think about that option before.
Well I'm not really sure how much normal rotors cost. I do know however that KVR cross drilled rotors cost $121 CDN each for the front. I assume that OEM rotors cost more. Are you suggesting that I stick with OEM rotors or should I get KVR/Brembo blank rotors for cheaper?
As for cyro-treatment, where can I get that done and how much would I expect to spend on it?
But I think I am convinced that normal rotors would be better than cross drilled for even heavy street application (eg, the occasional street race), right? Or maybe I should get dimpled? I didn't think about that option before.
#18
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If you poll the orgy, you'll see our biggest complaint is warped rotors.
Stillen has Brembo blanks, Cross Drilled for cooling & CAD plated for looks.
Poll the orgy again and see if anybody has ever had a Stillen X-Drill rotor warp on them.
If you want smooth brakes that don't warp and look good, the Stillen Rotors are the way to go. Combine them with the Metal Axis Pads and you have some really nice brakes!
Trust me, I know!
Stillen has Brembo blanks, Cross Drilled for cooling & CAD plated for looks.
Poll the orgy again and see if anybody has ever had a Stillen X-Drill rotor warp on them.
If you want smooth brakes that don't warp and look good, the Stillen Rotors are the way to go. Combine them with the Metal Axis Pads and you have some really nice brakes!
Trust me, I know!
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Originally posted by njmaxseltd
Stillen has Brembo blanks, Cross Drilled for cooling & CAD plated for looks.
Stillen has Brembo blanks, Cross Drilled for cooling & CAD plated for looks.
If you want smooth brakes that don't warp and look good, the Stillen Rotors are the way to go. Combine them with the Metal Axis Pads and you have some really nice brakes!
#20
I don't have as good of a picture as njmaxseltd, but slotted rotors have served me well with my Axxis pads.
Overall it serves not only as a cosmetic mod, but also a practical one. If you shop around you can get pads, rotors, and SS lines for under $500.
www.eatricezone.com
www.fastbrakes.com
-hype
Overall it serves not only as a cosmetic mod, but also a practical one. If you shop around you can get pads, rotors, and SS lines for under $500.
www.eatricezone.com
www.fastbrakes.com
-hype
#22
I recommend going with raceconcepts.net. Wood is great and the prices are also great. See here http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....readid=132897. I have them on my Z with Axxis pads and man can I stop. FYI, be aware that slots and/or x-drilling will make a some noise when you brake.
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NJmax like the way you didnt paint your calipers and the stillen rotors look nice and yellow I am about to call Paul or Phuong and see who can get me the rotors, my brakes are squeeling so I am getting tired of that noise!!
#24
Originally posted by JAY25
NJmax like the way you didnt paint your calipers and the stillen rotors look nice and yellow I am about to call Paul or Phuong and see who can get me the rotors, my brakes are squeeling so I am getting tired of that noise!!
NJmax like the way you didnt paint your calipers and the stillen rotors look nice and yellow I am about to call Paul or Phuong and see who can get me the rotors, my brakes are squeeling so I am getting tired of that noise!!
#25
I was going to be buying these Brembo Cross Drilled/Slotted rotors from SouthWest AutoWorks in about a month or so. They are $150 for the front pair and $140 for the rear pair.
For me, its mostly cosmetic because with my 18" Evo5's, you can see A LOT of rotor. It's also due to the fact that my front rotors are extremely warped. It's so bad that when I hit the brakes doing over 40mph, my steering wheel shakes violently.
Any thoughts on this purchase? I'll probably get them no matter what, I figure if I can afford them, why not get them?
For me, its mostly cosmetic because with my 18" Evo5's, you can see A LOT of rotor. It's also due to the fact that my front rotors are extremely warped. It's so bad that when I hit the brakes doing over 40mph, my steering wheel shakes violently.
Any thoughts on this purchase? I'll probably get them no matter what, I figure if I can afford them, why not get them?
#26
Others will disagree but I think the slotted or crossed drilled rotors are not just for cosmetics. I believe that these rotors will reduce heat build up between the pads and the rotor surface.
#27
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Originally posted by deezo
Others will disagree but I think the slotted or crossed drilled rotors are not just for cosmetics. I believe that these rotors will reduce heat build up between the pads and the rotor surface.
Others will disagree but I think the slotted or crossed drilled rotors are not just for cosmetics. I believe that these rotors will reduce heat build up between the pads and the rotor surface.
#28
#29
I am curious but as I was just watching a rerun of the DC grand prix and a F1 highlight on speedvision I do notice and pay attention to the brakes that they show(when they show them) I've noticed a good majority with x-drilled, I have a hard time believing that they would be used if the holes are just for show. I also noticed that Porsche and other exotics come with X drilled and not slotted. I know that they are not the same material as our rotors. But to say that the holes only serve for looks doesn't make much sense. For street use, I think that Iwaanabmw is right that a good pair of pads and freshly turned blanks serves (exceeds)most peoples needs.
#30
Originally posted by SLC I30t
I am curious but as I was just watching a rerun of the DC grand prix and a F1 highlight on speedvision I do notice and pay attention to the brakes that they show(when they show them) I've noticed a good majority with x-drilled, I have a hard time believing that they would be used if the holes are just for show. I also noticed that Porsche and other exotics come with X drilled and not slotted. I know that they are not the same material as our rotors. But to say that the holes only serve for looks doesn't make much sense. For street use, I think that Iwaanabmw is right that a good pair of pads and freshly turned blanks serves (exceeds)most peoples needs.
I am curious but as I was just watching a rerun of the DC grand prix and a F1 highlight on speedvision I do notice and pay attention to the brakes that they show(when they show them) I've noticed a good majority with x-drilled, I have a hard time believing that they would be used if the holes are just for show. I also noticed that Porsche and other exotics come with X drilled and not slotted. I know that they are not the same material as our rotors. But to say that the holes only serve for looks doesn't make much sense. For street use, I think that Iwaanabmw is right that a good pair of pads and freshly turned blanks serves (exceeds)most peoples needs.
#31
Originally posted by deezo
Others will disagree but I think the slotted or crossed drilled rotors are not just for cosmetics. I believe that these rotors will reduce heat build up between the pads and the rotor surface.
Others will disagree but I think the slotted or crossed drilled rotors are not just for cosmetics. I believe that these rotors will reduce heat build up between the pads and the rotor surface.
at least on the track, the slotted ones made more sense, and most were using either blanks or slotted, the reason already stated earlier by iwannabmw, the slotted clean out the rotors instead of having the pad build on on the rotor and not being able to brake (which is what happened to me) because I have blanks, Greg had slotted and he had experienced none of that, now in terms of the x-drilled, even if they do keep the rotors cooler, the fact that you are reducing your surface area is more important then keeping the pads cool, and surface area is what gives you that great braking power, hence, BIG BRAKE KITS, have much bigger rotors===> bigger surface area, because if you can't keep the surface area it doesn't matter what the temp is
but then again, that's just my opinion from the limited track experience that I have
#32
here's a little article I found, and these people sell rotors too
http://www.myroadster.net/rotor_differences.asp
this article is someone's thoughts of the two and most will agree w/ him
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/...l#crossdrilled
good luck with your search for a perfect race car
http://www.myroadster.net/rotor_differences.asp
this article is someone's thoughts of the two and most will agree w/ him
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/...l#crossdrilled
good luck with your search for a perfect race car
#34
Originally posted by speedemn
Would dimpled rotors be better?
Would dimpled rotors be better?
#35
Originally posted by deezo
Not sure but could be. Like in a prior post above, crossed-drill removes mass which makes them weaker when extremely hot but dimpled would keep a lot if the mass to keep the rotor rigid and remove gases as well.
Not sure but could be. Like in a prior post above, crossed-drill removes mass which makes them weaker when extremely hot but dimpled would keep a lot if the mass to keep the rotor rigid and remove gases as well.
#36
Originally posted by iwannabmw
How would a dimpled rotor help remove gasses as well?
How would a dimpled rotor help remove gasses as well?
Wouldn't the gas pockets build up in the dimples just the same as with a blank? Maybe my idea of what a dimpled rotor is is different than yours, I've never seen a picture of one.
#37
Originally posted by Vinipux
can you support your believes?
but then again, that's just my opinion from the limited track experience that I have
can you support your believes?
but then again, that's just my opinion from the limited track experience that I have
#39
Originally posted by 95Max
Yes the pad does most of the work but slots are important as they "refresh" the pads allowing them to bite better.
Yes the pad does most of the work but slots are important as they "refresh" the pads allowing them to bite better.
#40
Originally posted by deezo
I will just say that over stock, they do a hell of a job. I was racing my cousin one day and we both took the Maximas up to about 100. We were on a long strip (in which we shouldn't have been speeding anyway) and there was a light that turned red quickly and we had to lay on the brakes hard. Let's just say that he was scared out of his mind because his stock pads and rotors heated up and faded to hell. He almost ran thru the intersection because he couldn't stop. Me on the other hand, was able to stop well before the light. Yes, I also have carbon/metallic pads and they probably do more of the work to stop my car but I think the drilled and slotted give some advantage when it comes to keeping things cool.
I will just say that over stock, they do a hell of a job. I was racing my cousin one day and we both took the Maximas up to about 100. We were on a long strip (in which we shouldn't have been speeding anyway) and there was a light that turned red quickly and we had to lay on the brakes hard. Let's just say that he was scared out of his mind because his stock pads and rotors heated up and faded to hell. He almost ran thru the intersection because he couldn't stop. Me on the other hand, was able to stop well before the light. Yes, I also have carbon/metallic pads and they probably do more of the work to stop my car but I think the drilled and slotted give some advantage when it comes to keeping things cool.
also, concerning the rotors with large dimples, that's the WORST IDEA in the world, as you heat them on the track, the HOT pressure would just build up and would seem that it apply the pressure opposite of the force that the pads are applying, so it would wosten the braking
or something like that
K