It's confirmed, my VI hasn't been working (Harlan switch possibly to blame)
10-01-2002, 08:44 PM
#1
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
It's confirmed, my VI hasn't been working (Harlan switch possibly to blame)
Tonight, I moved my RPM switch within eyesight while driving. The VI kicked open in 1st (LED lite up and flashed a couple times), but when I 2nd gear nothing. I tried 3rd and nothing. Went back to 2nd and nothing. I pulled over and restarted the car, going WOT in 2nd, the LED lite up and I heard the VI kick open. Then I hit 3rd and nothing. I'm now starting to wonder if I've ever felt the VI in 3rd because I've never heard the same kind of intake tone change in 3rd like I do in 2nd gear. The flashing of the led light in 1st indicates some sort of problem too. I read that Mr Cranman said he wired his MAP switch straight to the "switched" wire (white wire) of the RPM switch (ie NO RELAY). Well, the LED lite up everytime, but the VI wasn't opening. I confirmed it by opening the hood and setting the switch to 1300rpms. Apparently there isn't enough power from the RPM switch to activate the MAP switch. I don't know how Mr Cranman's switch is able to operate like this. I reinstalled the relay and then I noticed that the RPM switch wire to the tach signal (from ECU) had lost the electrical tape at the connection and the bare wire was touching the clean metal of the steering column (possible grounding problem). Well I fixed that. With the switch still set at 1300rpms, I gassed it and the VI opened. I gassed it again and NOTHING. And again, nothing 
With the car still on, I said SCREW IT and took it for a spin with a 4700rpm switchover. I gunned it in 1st and heard the VI, hit 2nd and heard the VI (normal), and hit 3rd and heard the VI (never heard it before, plain as day, and it sounded good). The LED lite up everytime and never flashed. I did a ton of testing and the car NEVER felt near as strong as this, even in this 80 degree and super humid weather we're having. I tested and tested and the system never failed. I'm so frustrated now because I've been made painfully aware that my VI has only been operating in 1st and maybe 2nd gear (on occassion). I'm just about ready to throw the RPM switch in the trash and wire the VI to a toggle switch or something. Now that I know I should be able to hear the VI in 3rd, I'll know if everything is working correctly.
Everyone-
Please post where you connected the power wires of your relay, where you tapped to get the RPM signal(ECU, cluster, coil pack), and if you're having/have had problems with the switch.
Mr Cranman-
If you're reading this, please post you wiring scheme for the RPM switch.
Dave
With the car still on, I said SCREW IT and took it for a spin with a 4700rpm switchover. I gunned it in 1st and heard the VI, hit 2nd and heard the VI (normal), and hit 3rd and heard the VI (never heard it before, plain as day, and it sounded good). The LED lite up everytime and never flashed. I did a ton of testing and the car NEVER felt near as strong as this, even in this 80 degree and super humid weather we're having. I tested and tested and the system never failed. I'm so frustrated now because I've been made painfully aware that my VI has only been operating in 1st and maybe 2nd gear (on occassion). I'm just about ready to throw the RPM switch in the trash and wire the VI to a toggle switch or something. Now that I know I should be able to hear the VI in 3rd, I'll know if everything is working correctly.
Everyone-
Please post where you connected the power wires of your relay, where you tapped to get the RPM signal(ECU, cluster, coil pack), and if you're having/have had problems with the switch.
Mr Cranman-
If you're reading this, please post you wiring scheme for the RPM switch.
Dave
10-01-2002, 08:51 PM
#2
Re: It's confirmed, my VI hasn't been working (Harlan switch possibly to blame)
Originally posted by Dave B
Everyone-
Please post where you connected the power wires of your relay, where you tapped to get the RPM signal(ECU, cluster, coil pack), and if you're having/have had problems with the switch.
Everyone-
Please post where you connected the power wires of your relay, where you tapped to get the RPM signal(ECU, cluster, coil pack), and if you're having/have had problems with the switch.
I pulled my rpm signal from the center coil of the front bank and it runs to both of my Harlans.
I've never had problems with either of my Harlans, and they're from different batches.
Since he no longer posts here I'll speak for Murphy_TX_Mike as well:
His power runs directly from the battery, and taps the center coil on the front bank like mine.
He owns 2 Harlans. 1 is from the same batch as one of my Harlans and works. The other was ordered later (probably from Keven97SE's batch) and doesn't work.
-hype
10-01-2002, 08:57 PM
#3
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Re: It's confirmed, my VI hasn't been working (Harlan switch possibly to blame)
Originally posted by Dave B
Everyone-
Please post where you connected the power wires of your relay, where you tapped to get the RPM signal(ECU, cluster, coil pack), and if you're having/have had problems with the switch.
Dave [/B]
Everyone-
Please post where you connected the power wires of your relay, where you tapped to get the RPM signal(ECU, cluster, coil pack), and if you're having/have had problems with the switch.
Dave [/B]
10-01-2002, 09:00 PM
#4
Man that sucks about the Harlan. At least you still have more performance to look forward to with the VI once the Harlan issue is fixed, or maybe Courtesy Nissan will offer a Nissan switch. There's a thread going mentioning how Courtesy is about to sell the VI.
DW
DW
10-01-2002, 09:09 PM
#5
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
I hope these problems get solved by the time my VI arrives...Why do we have to use the Harlan RPM switch, if they may be faulty, isnt there another brand we can buy, something with a good name on it ???
-Matt
-Matt
10-01-2002, 10:33 PM
#7
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Well, I went out and tested my car again. The RPM switch only works in the gear I'm in and then it stops working. I gunned it in 1st and the switch activated and then I hit 2nd and nothing. I restarted the car and went WOT in 2nd the switch activated and then I hit 3rd and nothing. I went home and rewired the relay power wires straight to the battery like most you. It's the same thing. VI in one gear only. At least now I know why I'm not showing a huge improvement in ET. I am happy to see that my trap speeds are still very high even though I'm only getting VI engagement in 1st at the track. I'm going to wire the tach signal wire to the coil pack and see if that helps. If not, I guess I'll be talking to Harlan. Summit (www.summitracing.com) has a simple RPM switch for $45 and the MSD switch is $60 plus $20 for the RPM pills (5000-5800 set). I think I'm going to call MSD and confirm that this switch will work with coil packs. MSD says "it works with all ignitions".
Dave
Dave
10-01-2002, 10:41 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,166
Originally posted by Dave B
Well, I went out and tested my car again. The RPM switch only works in the gear I'm in and then it stops working. I gunned it in 1st and the switch activated and then I hit 2nd and nothing. I restarted the car and went WOT in 2nd the switch activated and then I hit 3rd and nothing. I went home and rewired the relay power wires straight to the battery like most you. It's the same thing. VI in one gear only. At least now I know why I'm not showing a huge improvement in ET. I am happy to see that my trap speeds are still very high even though I'm only getting VI engagement in 1st at the track. I'm going to wire the tach signal wire to the coil pack and see if that helps. If not, I guess I'll be talking to Harlan. Summit (www.summitracing.com) has a simple RPM switch for $45 and the MSD switch is $60 plus $20 for the RPM pills (5000-5800 set). I think I'm going to call MSD and confirm that this switch will work with coil packs. MSD says "it works with all ignitions".
Dave
Well, I went out and tested my car again. The RPM switch only works in the gear I'm in and then it stops working. I gunned it in 1st and the switch activated and then I hit 2nd and nothing. I restarted the car and went WOT in 2nd the switch activated and then I hit 3rd and nothing. I went home and rewired the relay power wires straight to the battery like most you. It's the same thing. VI in one gear only. At least now I know why I'm not showing a huge improvement in ET. I am happy to see that my trap speeds are still very high even though I'm only getting VI engagement in 1st at the track. I'm going to wire the tach signal wire to the coil pack and see if that helps. If not, I guess I'll be talking to Harlan. Summit (www.summitracing.com) has a simple RPM switch for $45 and the MSD switch is $60 plus $20 for the RPM pills (5000-5800 set). I think I'm going to call MSD and confirm that this switch will work with coil packs. MSD says "it works with all ignitions".
Dave
10-01-2002, 10:48 PM
#9
Hmmm, this as me wondering. I hear you talk about hearing the VI, I've never been able to notice any noise difference. Maybe because I'm just using a simple pop charger setup, with no midpipe or anything. Maybe the harlan switch cannot react fast enough to the off-on-off-on that the MEVI setup produces. I mean, in a WOT run from 1st into 2nd gear... it goes from off to on to off to on again within probably 3 seconds... maybe its just that the parameters are changing too quickly for the switch to react.
I think my VI is working, but I've never heard it, and it sure feels good, and my trap speeds would say its working, as did brian the time he drove my car. I think I'll move it to a place I can see it this weekend just for confirmation.
EDIT: I know it is working at least part time, I pulled brian on the highway a few weekends ago, something which I could never do without the MEVI, and pulled straight to redline in 5th, something which no NA maxima can do without the MEVI. So its working at least part of the time, I want to have it in the interior this weekend when I go to the track though.
I think my VI is working, but I've never heard it, and it sure feels good, and my trap speeds would say its working, as did brian the time he drove my car. I think I'll move it to a place I can see it this weekend just for confirmation.
EDIT: I know it is working at least part time, I pulled brian on the highway a few weekends ago, something which I could never do without the MEVI, and pulled straight to redline in 5th, something which no NA maxima can do without the MEVI. So its working at least part of the time, I want to have it in the interior this weekend when I go to the track though.
10-01-2002, 11:20 PM
#12
Holy cow
REDLINE in 5th?????? what's that in mph? 150? I reach top speed at 140 mph, which is about 5800 rpms,quite a bit shy of 6500. You may as well take the title as fastest 4th gen Maxima. PERIOD
DW
REDLINE in 5th?????? what's that in mph? 150? I reach top speed at 140 mph, which is about 5800 rpms,quite a bit shy of 6500. You may as well take the title as fastest 4th gen Maxima. PERIODDW
Originally posted by Nealoc187
. . .pulled straight to redline in 5th, something which no NA maxima can do without the MEVI. So its working at least part of the time, I want to have it in the interior this weekend when I go to the track though.
. . .pulled straight to redline in 5th, something which no NA maxima can do without the MEVI. So its working at least part of the time, I want to have it in the interior this weekend when I go to the track though.
10-01-2002, 11:38 PM
#13
Originally posted by dwapenyi
Holy cow REDLINE in 5th?????? what's that in mph? 150? I reach top speed at 140 mph, which is about 5800 rpms,quite a bit shy of 6500. You may as well take the title as fastest 4th gen Maxima. PERIOD
DW
Holy cow
REDLINE in 5th?????? what's that in mph? 150? I reach top speed at 140 mph, which is about 5800 rpms,quite a bit shy of 6500. You may as well take the title as fastest 4th gen Maxima. PERIODDW
There are a few factors at work here, which are all actually HURTING my top speed.
1) I have tires which are smaller in diameter than stock, meaning my speedo reads higher than actual, and my car accelerates faster BUT my top speed is lower. Because of my tire size, I am basically running out of gear. With a stock sized tire, there is no doubt in my mind i could get to a GPS verified 152-153mph. Maybe 155 but I dont know.
2) I have a carbon fiber hood which doesn't fit worth beans. It sticks up at the front right corner about half an inch. This little bit is causing an immense amount of drag I'm sure. I bet this is taking 2mph off my top speed right there.
This winter, if I get a clear stretch of dry road, I will have my stock sized all season tires on, and I will be swapping my stock hood back on too (dont want to screw up the finish on my CF) and I'll see what this car can really get up to on a clear cold dry night. In those conditions, with stock sized tires and no CF hood to create a bunch of drag, I bet I can get to 154 GPS verified, with the mods my car has now. With the mods I will have by that time, G-force ECU, UDP, and hopefully an exhaust, I might be able to get another 1 or 2mph out of it.
Keep in mind also that I have hardly any bolt ons. I've got JWT POP and Cattman Y, thats it. No exhaust, no UDP, no midpipe. Rev limiter in 5th would be cool hehe.
10-02-2002, 12:00 AM
#15
Oh man, that half inch misfit of the CF hood can be downright DANGEROUS at high speed. The aerodynamic fluctuation could cause the hood could to flip up just like that. At >100 mph, that AIN'T NO JOKE.
I undertsnd that the smaller tires will hurt your top speed, and acceleration improves, the tradeoff.
When you get the the stock tires on, I see 150 mph at best. I mean, this is a ~200hp car.
Anyways, be careful, and I would be cautious about that hood. Maybe change it back to stock for very high speed runs. Aerodynamics rules at high speed.
DW
I undertsnd that the smaller tires will hurt your top speed, and acceleration improves, the tradeoff.
When you get the the stock tires on, I see 150 mph at best. I mean, this is a ~200hp car.
Anyways, be careful, and I would be cautious about that hood. Maybe change it back to stock for very high speed runs. Aerodynamics rules at high speed.
DW
Originally posted by Nealoc187
I can reach 6500rpm in 5th gear, this is a GPS verified 145mph, but read the rest of my post for the explanation.
There are a few factors at work here, which are all actually HURTING my top speed.
1) I have tires which are smaller in diameter than stock, meaning my speedo reads higher than actual, and my car accelerates faster BUT my top speed is lower. Because of my tire size, I am basically running out of gear. With a stock sized tire, there is no doubt in my mind i could get to a GPS verified 152-153mph. Maybe 155 but I dont know.
2) I have a carbon fiber hood which doesn't fit worth beans. It sticks up at the front right corner about half an inch. This little bit is causing an immense amount of drag I'm sure. I bet this is taking 2mph off my top speed right there.
This winter, if I get a clear stretch of dry road, I will have my stock sized all season tires on, and I will be swapping my stock hood back on too (dont want to screw up the finish on my CF) and I'll see what this car can really get up to on a clear cold dry night. In those conditions, with stock sized tires and no CF hood to create a bunch of drag, I bet I can get to 154 GPS verified, with the mods my car has now. With the mods I will have by that time, G-force ECU, UDP, and hopefully an exhaust, I might be able to get another 1 or 2mph out of it.
Keep in mind also that I have hardly any bolt ons. I've got JWT POP and Cattman Y, thats it. No exhaust, no UDP, no midpipe. Rev limiter in 5th would be cool hehe.
I can reach 6500rpm in 5th gear, this is a GPS verified 145mph, but read the rest of my post for the explanation.
There are a few factors at work here, which are all actually HURTING my top speed.
1) I have tires which are smaller in diameter than stock, meaning my speedo reads higher than actual, and my car accelerates faster BUT my top speed is lower. Because of my tire size, I am basically running out of gear. With a stock sized tire, there is no doubt in my mind i could get to a GPS verified 152-153mph. Maybe 155 but I dont know.
2) I have a carbon fiber hood which doesn't fit worth beans. It sticks up at the front right corner about half an inch. This little bit is causing an immense amount of drag I'm sure. I bet this is taking 2mph off my top speed right there.
This winter, if I get a clear stretch of dry road, I will have my stock sized all season tires on, and I will be swapping my stock hood back on too (dont want to screw up the finish on my CF) and I'll see what this car can really get up to on a clear cold dry night. In those conditions, with stock sized tires and no CF hood to create a bunch of drag, I bet I can get to 154 GPS verified, with the mods my car has now. With the mods I will have by that time, G-force ECU, UDP, and hopefully an exhaust, I might be able to get another 1 or 2mph out of it.
Keep in mind also that I have hardly any bolt ons. I've got JWT POP and Cattman Y, thats it. No exhaust, no UDP, no midpipe. Rev limiter in 5th would be cool hehe.
10-02-2002, 12:15 AM
#16
Yeah my hood is a little suspect at high speeds... which is why I haven't bothered to do more top speed runs. Not to mention my tires hamper top speed anyways and I am paranoid of getting pulled over doing 140+.
10-02-2002, 06:00 AM
#17
harlan switch purchased 4/4/02
wired rmp off the ecu (already had the wire from old shiftlight) and powered from cig. lighter.
used relay, power from battery (fused line)
86-30/51 battery power
85 harlan white
87 dawes positive
so far no problems, watched it on the dyno, i don't check it everytime out.
wired rmp off the ecu (already had the wire from old shiftlight) and powered from cig. lighter.
used relay, power from battery (fused line)
86-30/51 battery power
85 harlan white
87 dawes positive
so far no problems, watched it on the dyno, i don't check it everytime out.
10-02-2002, 06:35 AM
#19
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 500
Re: It's confirmed, my VI hasn't been working (Harlan switch possibly to blame)
Power for my relay and harlan rpm switch from cig lighter.
Tach input for harlan from tach cluster.
RPM switch set to "V6"
I can always here a click at the rpm set point when my VIM engages. I think it may be the switch inside the relay when the switched ground is energized. I'll have to check on that.
Tach input for harlan from tach cluster.
RPM switch set to "V6"
I can always here a click at the rpm set point when my VIM engages. I think it may be the switch inside the relay when the switched ground is energized. I'll have to check on that.
10-02-2002, 06:43 AM
#20
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Re: Re: It's confirmed, my VI hasn't been working (Harlan switch possibly to blame)
Originally posted by speedtrip
Power for my relay and harlan rpm switch from cig lighter.
Tach input for harlan from tach cluster.
RPM switch set to "V6"
I can always here a click at the rpm set point when my VIM engages. I think it may be the switch inside the relay when the switched ground is energized. I'll have to check on that.
Power for my relay and harlan rpm switch from cig lighter.
Tach input for harlan from tach cluster.
RPM switch set to "V6"
I can always here a click at the rpm set point when my VIM engages. I think it may be the switch inside the relay when the switched ground is energized. I'll have to check on that.
Anyways, the Summit RPM switch WILL NOT WORK with our ignitions. I downloaded the MSD RPM switch manual and I don't think that will work with our ignitions either. I'll be calling their tech support with they open.
Dave
10-02-2002, 07:23 AM
#21
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 500
Re: Re: Re: It's confirmed, my VI hasn't been working (Harlan switch possibly to blame)
Originally posted by Dave B
Are you sure you've got the switch set to "V6" because it's suppose to be set to "coil per plug".
Dave
Are you sure you've got the switch set to "V6" because it's suppose to be set to "coil per plug".
Dave
I guess the question is, what setting (v6 or coil on plug) have the harlan shift light people been using if they have tapped into the tach cluster?
Also my relay does click everytime the switch ground is energized.
10-02-2002, 07:25 AM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Your symptoms sounds exactly like mine. I'd buy a new MSD switch but I'll be damned if Harlan's going to keep my $45 without giving me another switch.
Originally posted by Dave B
Well, I went out and tested my car again. The RPM switch only works in the gear I'm in and then it stops working. I gunned it in 1st and the switch activated and then I hit 2nd and nothing. I restarted the car and went WOT in 2nd the switch activated and then I hit 3rd and nothing. I went home and rewired the relay power wires straight to the battery like most you. It's the same thing. VI in one gear only. At least now I know why I'm not showing a huge improvement in ET. I am happy to see that my trap speeds are still very high even though I'm only getting VI engagement in 1st at the track. I'm going to wire the tach signal wire to the coil pack and see if that helps. If not, I guess I'll be talking to Harlan. Summit (www.summitracing.com) has a simple RPM switch for $45 and the MSD switch is $60 plus $20 for the RPM pills (5000-5800 set). I think I'm going to call MSD and confirm that this switch will work with coil packs. MSD says "it works with all ignitions".
Dave
Well, I went out and tested my car again. The RPM switch only works in the gear I'm in and then it stops working. I gunned it in 1st and the switch activated and then I hit 2nd and nothing. I restarted the car and went WOT in 2nd the switch activated and then I hit 3rd and nothing. I went home and rewired the relay power wires straight to the battery like most you. It's the same thing. VI in one gear only. At least now I know why I'm not showing a huge improvement in ET. I am happy to see that my trap speeds are still very high even though I'm only getting VI engagement in 1st at the track. I'm going to wire the tach signal wire to the coil pack and see if that helps. If not, I guess I'll be talking to Harlan. Summit (www.summitracing.com) has a simple RPM switch for $45 and the MSD switch is $60 plus $20 for the RPM pills (5000-5800 set). I think I'm going to call MSD and confirm that this switch will work with coil packs. MSD says "it works with all ignitions".
Dave
10-02-2002, 07:34 AM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
We don't need a window switch. A window switch has a turn-on and turn-off rpm setting. We only need the turn-on setting. I mean, we could make a window switch work by setting setting #2 way above redline, but that #2 setting is just not needed.
I'm thinking the MSD rpm switch is what we should have been using all along here.
I'm thinking the MSD rpm switch is what we should have been using all along here.
Originally posted by SprintMax
did you guys think of maybe a NOS window switch?
did you guys think of maybe a NOS window switch?
10-02-2002, 07:35 AM
#25
Originally posted by Keven97SE
We don't need a window switch. A window switch has a turn-on and turn-off rpm setting. We only need the turn-on setting. I mean, we could make a window switch work by setting setting #2 way above redline, but that #2 setting is just not needed.
I'm thinking the MSD rpm switch is what we should have been using all along here.
We don't need a window switch. A window switch has a turn-on and turn-off rpm setting. We only need the turn-on setting. I mean, we could make a window switch work by setting setting #2 way above redline, but that #2 setting is just not needed.
I'm thinking the MSD rpm switch is what we should have been using all along here.
10-02-2002, 08:15 AM
#26
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Bad news, the MSD RPM switch WILL NOT work with our ignitions. I talked to a couple techs at MSD and they confirmed it 
Summit's $45 RPM switch won't work either so our only option is the Harlan RPM switch. May God help us.
Is there anyway I can tap into my Harlan shiftlight so it becomes an RPM switch for the time being? I've never had an ounce of trouble with my shiftlight. I may just use a toggle switch and hit it in 2nd at 4800rpms and leave it open during WOT blasts while I wait for the RPM switch to get fixed.
Dave
Summit's $45 RPM switch won't work either so our only option is the Harlan RPM switch. May God help us. Is there anyway I can tap into my Harlan shiftlight so it becomes an RPM switch for the time being? I've never had an ounce of trouble with my shiftlight. I may just use a toggle switch and hit it in 2nd at 4800rpms and leave it open during WOT blasts while I wait for the RPM switch to get fixed.
Dave
10-02-2002, 08:16 AM
#27
MSD Switch has to be modified.. its possible.. many people had their window switches modified by MSD for Nitrous.. so i don't see why they can't do the rpm switch
Originally posted by Dave B
Bad news, the MSD RPM switch WILL NOT work with our ignitions. I talked to a couple techs at MSD and they confirmed it Summit's $45 RPM switch won't work either so our only option is the Harlan RPM switch. May God help us.
Is there anyway I can tap into my Harlan shiftlight so it becomes an RPM switch for the time being? I've never had an ounce of trouble with my shiftlight. I may just use a toggle switch and hit it in 2nd at 4800rpms and leave it open during WOT blasts while I wait for the RPM switch to get fixed.
Dave
Bad news, the MSD RPM switch WILL NOT work with our ignitions. I talked to a couple techs at MSD and they confirmed it
Summit's $45 RPM switch won't work either so our only option is the Harlan RPM switch. May God help us. Is there anyway I can tap into my Harlan shiftlight so it becomes an RPM switch for the time being? I've never had an ounce of trouble with my shiftlight. I may just use a toggle switch and hit it in 2nd at 4800rpms and leave it open during WOT blasts while I wait for the RPM switch to get fixed.
Dave
10-02-2002, 08:34 AM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 424
Originally posted by Dave B
Well, I went out and tested my car again. The RPM switch only works in the gear I'm in and then it stops working. I gunned it in 1st and the switch activated and then I hit 2nd and nothing. I restarted the car and went WOT in 2nd the switch activated and then I hit 3rd and nothing. I went home and rewired the relay power wires straight to the battery like most you. It's the same thing. VI in one gear only. At least now I know why I'm not showing a huge improvement in ET. I am happy to see that my trap speeds are still very high even though I'm only getting VI engagement in 1st at the track. I'm going to wire the tach signal wire to the coil pack and see if that helps. If not, I guess I'll be talking to Harlan. Summit (www.summitracing.com) has a simple RPM switch for $45 and the MSD switch is $60 plus $20 for the RPM pills (5000-5800 set). I think I'm going to call MSD and confirm that this switch will work with coil packs. MSD says "it works with all ignitions".
Dave
Well, I went out and tested my car again. The RPM switch only works in the gear I'm in and then it stops working. I gunned it in 1st and the switch activated and then I hit 2nd and nothing. I restarted the car and went WOT in 2nd the switch activated and then I hit 3rd and nothing. I went home and rewired the relay power wires straight to the battery like most you. It's the same thing. VI in one gear only. At least now I know why I'm not showing a huge improvement in ET. I am happy to see that my trap speeds are still very high even though I'm only getting VI engagement in 1st at the track. I'm going to wire the tach signal wire to the coil pack and see if that helps. If not, I guess I'll be talking to Harlan. Summit (www.summitracing.com) has a simple RPM switch for $45 and the MSD switch is $60 plus $20 for the RPM pills (5000-5800 set). I think I'm going to call MSD and confirm that this switch will work with coil packs. MSD says "it works with all ignitions".
Dave
Didnt i ask you about the MSD switch after everyone started having problems with the Harlan? Well i went ahead and PM'd Synki and asked how his MSD switch was modified by MSD.. heres the PM...lemme know what you think."Brett,
I am sorry for the late reply as i didnt even realize that i had a new PM. You will need to send the MSD switch back andhave it modified for 1 cylinder application. You need to do this since the Maxima has individual coil packs. This mod costs about $30 or so. You can call them and let them know that you are sending the Window Switch to them. I would also attach a letter inside the package as a reminder. I hope everything works out well for you.
Regards"
Maybe it could work??
10-02-2002, 08:37 AM
#29
Wiring
First off it seems that your RPM switch was one that was in a bad batch I had talked to Harlan about this and it appears that a few switch in late June, July, and August...had had a bad chip...he didn't really elaborate. But, it appears that ones sent out throughout this date might have been faulty. But, he has rectified the problem...my freind just got an RPM switch about 3 weeks ago and it works flawlessly. So, it appears whatever the problem was has been rectified.
But I just wired it straight from my positive terminal, grounded it to the car, tapped into the coil from the first bank. Didn't use a relay...but if it fries it is my fault and then I'll think about using a relay. Probably was purchased early May...and haven't had a problem.
-John
But I just wired it straight from my positive terminal, grounded it to the car, tapped into the coil from the first bank. Didn't use a relay...but if it fries it is my fault and then I'll think about using a relay. Probably was purchased early May...and haven't had a problem.
-John
10-02-2002, 08:42 AM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wiring
Okay, now I'm ****ed. Harlan now has good working switches but why haven't I received one of them? I'm calling him today to set this all straight.
Originally posted by Mr Cranman
First off it seems that your RPM switch was one that was in a bad batch I had talked to Harlan about this and it appears that a few switch in late June, July, and August...had had a bad chip...he didn't really elaborate. But, it appears that ones sent out throughout this date might have been faulty. But, he has rectified the problem...my freind just got an RPM switch about 3 weeks ago and it works flawlessly. So, it appears whatever the problem was has been rectified.
But I just wired it straight from my positive terminal, grounded it to the car, tapped into the coil from the first bank. Didn't use a relay...but if it fries it is my fault and then I'll think about using a relay. Probably was purchased early May...and haven't had a problem.
-John
First off it seems that your RPM switch was one that was in a bad batch I had talked to Harlan about this and it appears that a few switch in late June, July, and August...had had a bad chip...he didn't really elaborate. But, it appears that ones sent out throughout this date might have been faulty. But, he has rectified the problem...my freind just got an RPM switch about 3 weeks ago and it works flawlessly. So, it appears whatever the problem was has been rectified.
But I just wired it straight from my positive terminal, grounded it to the car, tapped into the coil from the first bank. Didn't use a relay...but if it fries it is my fault and then I'll think about using a relay. Probably was purchased early May...and haven't had a problem.
-John
10-02-2002, 08:56 AM
#31
Moderator running more PSI than all the boosted Maximas... combined
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,345
I know...if MSD can do it for the window switch, why couldn't they do it for the RPM switch? Sounds fishy to me. You could just buy the window switch and leave the upper RPM pill out. This will just leave the circuit open and act just like a RPM switch.
Originally posted by SprintMax
MSD Switch has to be modified.. its possible.. many people had their window switches modified by MSD for Nitrous.. so i don't see why they can't do the rpm switch
MSD Switch has to be modified.. its possible.. many people had their window switches modified by MSD for Nitrous.. so i don't see why they can't do the rpm switch
10-02-2002, 10:20 AM
#32
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
I didn't ask them if they could modify the RPM switches. I didn't know it was possible and I guess the two techs didn't either. It's could to know it can be done, but it will be VERY expensive:
$60 for the RPM switch
$20 for the 5000-5800 rpm "pill" set
$10 for shipping
$30 for MSD to wire for coil per plug
$10 for shipping
You're looking at $130 to have this RPM switch!!!
I'm going to send my RPM switch back to Harlan tommorrow. I e-mailed him last night and he hasn't responded yet. I'm going to e-mail him and tell him it's on the way.
Dave
$60 for the RPM switch
$20 for the 5000-5800 rpm "pill" set
$10 for shipping
$30 for MSD to wire for coil per plug
$10 for shipping
You're looking at $130 to have this RPM switch!!!
I'm going to send my RPM switch back to Harlan tommorrow. I e-mailed him last night and he hasn't responded yet. I'm going to e-mail him and tell him it's on the way.
Dave
10-02-2002, 10:54 AM
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 424
Originally posted by Dave B
I didn't ask them if they could modify the RPM switches. I didn't know it was possible and I guess the two techs didn't either. It's could to know it can be done, but it will be VERY expensive:
$60 for the RPM switch
$20 for the 5000-5800 rpm "pill" set
$10 for shipping
$30 for MSD to wire for coil per plug
$10 for shipping
You're looking at $130 to have this RPM switch!!!
Dave
I didn't ask them if they could modify the RPM switches. I didn't know it was possible and I guess the two techs didn't either. It's could to know it can be done, but it will be VERY expensive:
$60 for the RPM switch
$20 for the 5000-5800 rpm "pill" set
$10 for shipping
$30 for MSD to wire for coil per plug
$10 for shipping
You're looking at $130 to have this RPM switch!!!
Dave
Brett
10-02-2002, 11:06 AM
#34
Originally posted by Krash513
I sure do agree with ya that $100 plus is alot of money for a rpm switch and pill set, but im just thinking how id rather spend the extra 50 or so and get something that "may" (dont think anyones done this yet so its a shot in the dark) not have the same problems as the harlan switch. Id hate to have to keep sending it back cause it would only work when it wanted to. Plus its something different...may be better, might be worse.
Brett
I sure do agree with ya that $100 plus is alot of money for a rpm switch and pill set, but im just thinking how id rather spend the extra 50 or so and get something that "may" (dont think anyones done this yet so its a shot in the dark) not have the same problems as the harlan switch. Id hate to have to keep sending it back cause it would only work when it wanted to. Plus its something different...may be better, might be worse.
Brett
-John
10-02-2002, 11:21 AM
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 424
Originally posted by Mr Cranman
Only a few people have had the problem of where it works when it feels like it. But, I think you have more people on the .org that have a working RPM switch from Harlan than don't. You just see the negative more from people because the VI isn't working. Just my observation. I think the Harlan RPM switch is a reliable switch just had a glitch in a few that he had sent out, which has been rectified. Just my thoughts.
-John
Only a few people have had the problem of where it works when it feels like it. But, I think you have more people on the .org that have a working RPM switch from Harlan than don't. You just see the negative more from people because the VI isn't working. Just my observation. I think the Harlan RPM switch is a reliable switch just had a glitch in a few that he had sent out, which has been rectified. Just my thoughts.
-John
Yeah i do see what your saying, everyone seems to post the negatives but if its working fine, there is nothing to really be concerned about. Point taken
and a good one too
10-02-2002, 11:25 AM
#36
Originally posted by Krash513
Hey John,
Yeah i do see what your saying, everyone seems to post the negatives but if its working fine, there is nothing to really be concerned about. Point taken and a good one too
Hey John,
Yeah i do see what your saying, everyone seems to post the negatives but if its working fine, there is nothing to really be concerned about. Point taken
and a good one too
-John
10-02-2002, 03:19 PM
#37
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Harlan e-mailed me back and said to send the switch back for a replacement. What's interesting is that he says he hasn't even gotten around to testing Keven's switch yet. He was aware of problems though.
Keven-
He said he will be sending out a switch ASAP.
Dave
Keven-
He said he will be sending out a switch ASAP.
Dave
10-02-2002, 05:06 PM
#38
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
How in the world do I wire up a toggle switch to manually operate my VI? I figured this would be simple, NOT!! I had a left over toggle switch from some old foglights and I wired the positive to the battery, negative to a ground, and the switched power to the power wire of the MAP baro. The toggle switch lite up green to say it was on and when I pushed the button it lite up red indicating the source was activated. However, the MAP didn't click on. I then took the MAP power wire and took it directly to the power and it opened. Am I missing sometime here? I'm so frustrated with this now.
DEave
DEave
10-02-2002, 05:24 PM
#39
Power is from the A/C relay under the hood
RPM's tapped off coil #1
Using the relay and the rpm switch gives it a GND
the harlan is located behind my passenger side headlight
I know it works in every gear.. a dyno confirmed this and my butt confirms it on a consistant basis
I bought my harlan in like may/june
RPM's tapped off coil #1
Using the relay and the rpm switch gives it a GND
the harlan is located behind my passenger side headlight
I know it works in every gear.. a dyno confirmed this and my butt confirms it on a consistant basis
I bought my harlan in like may/june
10-02-2002, 06:22 PM
#40
Originally posted by Dave B
How in the world do I wire up a toggle switch to manually operate my VI? DEave
How in the world do I wire up a toggle switch to manually operate my VI? DEave