Did you have a fitting welded into the Y pipe for the sensor to screw into?

If not, how do you have your sensor set up to read the temp of exhaust gases? Where is it mounted?

I was planning on having apice welded in for the fitting however, I am not sure of the best place to place it to get the most accurate reading.

Please advise!

D

 

I dont have one (yet )

But from what i was told...have a bung welded into your ypipe.....

I think as close as you can to where it bolts up......

Aaron

 

I do not think this will give you an accurate reading though. How do you capture the front and rear bank exhaust temp?

I will be usning this with juice so I will need an accurate reading........ I do not want to go Kaboom.

 

I don't have the "screw in" type probe, I have a tapered one. So, I drilled a 1/4" hole in the pipe and put the probe in. The probe has a huge hose clamp on it, which you then tighten as much as you can. The force of the clamp combined with the taper of the probe make it air tight. Works great, no leaks.

I put mine as close to the top of the Y-Pipe on the front (left) bank as I could. Idealy you put it in the header.

You don't want it back between the two, because you will get lower readings than you should. If you really want to monitor both banks, you'll need to get 2 guages.

 

That helps. I do have the option of a screw in or a tapered sensor. I would imagine the taper is easier to do.

What readings have you been getting on and off the juice? You just set this up recently correct?

Dave

 

Yes, the tapered is much easier...doesn't require any welding and is 100% DIY. However, it may affect the re-sale value of your Y-Pipe, but I didn't care about that.

Off the juice I get around 1450F or 1500F in about a quarter mile WOT. I just installed the NOS yesterday, and its way too rich, and I'm getting about 1200F. I'll fix that later today thought.

 

Yeah mine is tapered as well. But I put mine in the rear bank y-pipe close to the O2 sensor. The ideal setup would be to have an EGT gauge for each bank. A good A/F ratio gauge would work well too.

 

Are you running an upgraded fuel pump or stock?

 

Upgraded. Walbro and a Sard FPR. NA fuel pressure is great, but I have to get it down when on the bottle.

 

I haven't experienced this first hand but I've been told that the strapped probes tend to work their way loose and leak over time. Mine is thru a bung that's welded on the Y.

You need to have a database of what your car does N/A and then compare that to readings when on the juice. Ideally the readings should not be any more than 50-100 deg F apart during hard runs.

 

okay, i just got a gauge pod too (and am setting up for some go-juice). just outta curiousity, has anyone on here got an egt gauge for front and rear bank? i figured it'd be a nicer way to narrow down a cylinder that's misfiring, etc... or am i wrong? also, trying to judge from what i've read in this post so far, why don't more people just tap into the bottom of the exhaust manifold and read right from there? is it harder to get to? another thing is exhaust wrap. i have some sittin around i was finally gonna install on my Y. should i put that on there, will it throw my readings off a lot should i just have a bung welded onto the y-pipe itself? thanks!!

 

I didn't because I figured it would make it tough to return to stock to sell. Finding a new header is tough, new Y-Pipe's are easy.

 

I'd be very surprised if anyone but the most hardcore car freak discovered the hole in your exhaust manifold (assuming you replaced the sensor with a pipe plug, of course).

 

Of course...however with the sensor that I had, there isn't a threaded "bung" installed...just a hole drilled. So plugging it would not be easy.

 

The Autometer EGT I used I opted to weld on the bung on the front bank part of the y-pipe, that way, I can either insert proper threaded plug if I need to remove the gauge for any reason or I could weld it shut for more permanent change.

I looked at the choice for the metal band to hold it on but thought it best to secure it firmly...

 

That is what I am going to do...... bung away

 

If you do it correctly... you don't even have to modify the heatshield.

 

Do a quick search, but I have read that header wrap is a big no no on Y pipes. You can get 2 egt's and do individual banks if you'd like. Honestly, I don't see that as a big advantage due to the fact the egt is used to monitor mostly and not diagnose. In other words, if you see the egt go too high, you shut down. If you go too high and don't see it, you go boom. You cant repair 1 bank of cylinders only, just all at once. Also, unless you are direct port, you have no way to "tune" in cylinders individually anyway. I think most people mount high up in the front bank due to historically lean #4 cylinder (not 100% on that number).

 

I can't tell from the picture. is that in the exhaust manifold?

Thanks,
D

 

Yes, at the collect area.

Top pic from front of car (near battery) looking down.
Bottom pic you can see the radiator on the right.

There is a cut out on the heatshield that will accommodate the probe without cutting... You wills still need a drill/tap...

I have better pics if you plan to do it this way... email me.

 

How were you able to drill the hole in the manifold? I can't figure out how to get a drill in the confined space between the radiator and manifold. Small air drill?

 

90 degree Makita drill... helps to have tools.
I also removed the radiator fans.