Any reason not to entierly drain all the existing brake fluid from the system before re-filling?

Can't hurt the MC, can it?

 

It will be a PITA to bleed the system if you do that. My best solution: Use ATE Super Blue and bleed the brakes as normal. When you see blue fluid, that line is flushed. Repeat for all four wheels and make sure the master cylinder is kept topped off with new fluid as well.

 

I am thinking about changing my brake fluid, can you please tell me how to do it start to finish?

 

Important notice: Be shure that the Master cylinder brake oil container always have enough brake oil try to keep it near the max, you will need to add some brake oil during the bleeding process, this way you ensure no air will infiltrate by the oil container during the bleeding process , otherwise you will have to start all over again with the bleeding process. Be shure to leave the Master cylinder cover closed when bleeding, dont apply pressure on the brake pedal when the master cylinder oil container cover is open. Dont re-use the spilled oil it can be contaminated. You'll need a clear hose to attach to the bleed port. The hose should be inserted into a clear plastic bottle so you can watch the air come out and color change. ASAP, submerge the hose in the old brake fluid.

Step4:
Bleeding procedures:
The hood must be open so you have access to the master cylinder oil container. You need a 10 mm wrench, for opening and closing the bleeder. The bleeders are located on the caliper assembley on the inside, there is a little rubber cap on it, remove it. We are now ready to proceed, your helper is in the driver seat, ask him to pump the brake pedal 2-3 times and hold the feet on the pedal to keep the pressure, then you unscrew the bleeder with the 10mm wrench, loose it so the air-oil can be pushed out, as soon as it stop spilling which should take approx 2-3 seconds , then quickly close the bleeder, during all this time the driver keep applying pressure on the pedal and it is only after you close the bleeder that the driver can release the pedal, repeat the same operation twice before moving to the next wheel. After the 4 wheels are done you want to verify if the brake pedal is hard and high or soft and low, cuz if the pedal is soft and low it's because there is still some air in the system, and you need to bleed a little more, you need to bleed each bleeder until the brake pedal is ferm and high.

 

If you get SpeedBleeders, you can do it yourself with no problems, and you won't need the hose in the bottle either;

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

I did mine completely in like an hour and a half. For each brake, I pumped the pedal slowly but fully around 17 times. That was enough to lower the reservoir from Max to Min. Then I topped off the reservoir and went to the next caliper. Figure out your number when doing the 1st caliper and then go from there.

Also, if you have ABS, the FSM says to leave the engine completely off, and dis-connect the negative battery terminal or ABS actuators. The Battery terminal is easier.

The order to bleed the brakes is;

Right Rear
Left Front
Left Rear
Right Front

DW

 

yeah, what this kid says the ATE Super Blue and ATE Gold are awesome because you know exactly when the brake are blead using one and then the other, and it's one of the highest quality dot 4 brake fluids, so u can't go wrong

good luck

 

Really? I've always done it with the car off.

 

Doh, I missed that. I copied that off another post somewhere and tweaked it for the max. Engine off is no problem.